swapping the motor....
11-07-2007, 05:40 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by hunterk1
Buy a Honda CBR600RR. It revs to 15,700, no modifications needed. You will not ask for more power... No, better yet, get the CBR1000RR. It still has a redline north of 11k. Wheelie madness!!
I find it hard to believe you would want a car that makes power so high. Even with VTEC, it would not develop much torque down low and thus would be a huge pain in the ass to drive around town...
I find it hard to believe you would want a car that makes power so high. Even with VTEC, it would not develop much torque down low and thus would be a huge pain in the ass to drive around town...
11-07-2007, 05:55 PM
#43
I Quit
why not just sell your TSX and buy and RSX-S and have the K20 and build from there? I mean you'll loose all of the luxury ammenities of the TSX, so why bother with the 2 extra doors? If your TSX is in good condition with low miles then you could easily get enough to buy an RSX-S and still have money left over to start your build. Now that is a realistic idea.
11-07-2007, 06:01 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by clee109
why not just sell your TSX and buy and RSX-S and have the K20 and build from there? I mean you'll loose all of the luxury ammenities of the TSX, so why bother with the 2 extra doors? If your TSX is in good condition with low miles then you could easily get enough to buy an RSX-S and still have money left over to start your build. Now that is a realistic idea.
i know its completely pointless to swap out a perfectly good motor.. but i'm daring to do whats not been done.. working on cars is my hobby.. and i don't plan out to swap out the motor soon... its gonna take a while to build a motor from scratch... first i need to hunt down a block... get it heat tanked and send it to darton for sleeving.. that alone takes six months...
11-08-2007, 09:47 AM
#45
Special-K
Originally Posted by CL9er
because if i wanted an rsx-s... i would've bought it already...
i know its completely pointless to swap out a perfectly good motor.. but i'm daring to do whats not been done.. working on cars is my hobby.. and i don't plan out to swap out the motor soon... its gonna take a while to build a motor from scratch... first i need to hunt down a block... get it heat tanked and send it to darton for sleeving.. that alone takes six months...
i know its completely pointless to swap out a perfectly good motor.. but i'm daring to do whats not been done.. working on cars is my hobby.. and i don't plan out to swap out the motor soon... its gonna take a while to build a motor from scratch... first i need to hunt down a block... get it heat tanked and send it to darton for sleeving.. that alone takes six months...
11-08-2007, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
What is the main reason for the motor swap?? Are you trying to throw in a turbo kit? Going all motor? You can do this with the K24 motor! I dont get it... You can rev the K24 pretty high.. i've seen/heard 9k+ but 8.5k is more than enough. Why not just get the 220hp Accord Euro-R motor and throw it into your TSX and do all the other conversions, minus right hand drive.
Accord Euro-R motor is K20A as well, same as RSX-S or RSX-R, which is his initial plan of swapping in.
11-08-2007, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
What is the main reason for the motor swap?? Are you trying to throw in a turbo kit? Going all motor? You can do this with the K24 motor! I dont get it... You can rev the K24 pretty high.. i've seen/heard 9k+ but 8.5k is more than enough. Why not just get the 220hp Accord Euro-R motor and throw it into your TSX and do all the other conversions, minus right hand drive.
11-08-2007, 07:10 PM
#48
Special-K
Originally Posted by chuson
K24 is not going to rev up to 8K+, it can but it's useless. Because if you read all the dynos, the power curve (torque) is going downwards @ around 7K+rpm. Like I said before, if he wants to go high rpm then he's going for K24/K20 Frank + RBC.
Accord Euro-R motor is K20A as well, same as RSX-S or RSX-R, which is his initial plan of swapping in.
Accord Euro-R motor is K20A as well, same as RSX-S or RSX-R, which is his initial plan of swapping in.
11-08-2007, 09:31 PM
#49
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whats the point in trying to rev to 11k if you stop making power... i think you need to read up on honda-tech or something before you start throwing money away.
blah actually never mind i had this long post written up as to why swapping in a k20 into our car is dumb but whatever. its your money not mine
blah actually never mind i had this long post written up as to why swapping in a k20 into our car is dumb but whatever. its your money not mine
11-08-2007, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Ni$h21
you read up on puttin k20 heads on k24 block?
11-08-2007, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
Nah.. you dont have to go the Frank route.. you can keep the k24 head.. An rbc you would need, yes. but you can rev past 8 and still make power.. but what numbers are you reading from because no one here is using K-pro?.. Alot of the rsx guys using the k24 motor stopped making power at 8.3k, but that would depend on the tune.. so like i said.. 8.5k is more than enough!
I get what you mean, but if you look into the torque curve, K24A2 (full swap for those RSX guys + RBC/RBB/or PRC IM P&P + I/H/E) will sloping down once it past 6.5K+ rpm, even w/ K-Pro tuned redline @ 8.5Krpm. On the other hand, the K20A has an advantage on the torque curve (sloping upwards) w/ appropriate mod once it past 6.5K+ rpm.
When I said the K24 is not gaining much power on the high rpm, it's not a bad thing at all. Consider it has power down low from usable 3Krpm all the way to its redline, where a K20 will need to boot it hard and start serious pull above 5Krpm.
The only downside for K24A2 or K20A2 engine is, both are high-compression engine, and will be too much to handle if you decide for the FI route. Therefore, people who enjoy FI will go for K24A3 (Accord/Element) block/K20 for more headroom to build on. Low compression, fat torque down low, and room for high rpm is the best way to describe those Frank-silly setup.
11-08-2007, 11:44 PM
#53
Special-K
Originally Posted by chuson
I'm referring to all dyno posted on forum, honda-tech, ClubRSX, Hondata website and such.
I get what you mean, but if you look into the torque curve, K24A2 (full swap for those RSX guys + RBC/RBB/or PRC IM P&P + I/H/E) will sloping down once it past 6.5K+ rpm, even w/ K-Pro tuned redline @ 8.5Krpm. On the other hand, the K20A has an advantage on the torque curve (sloping upwards) w/ appropriate mod once it past 6.5K+ rpm.
When I said the K24 is not gaining much power on the high rpm, it's not a bad thing at all. Consider it has power down low from usable 3Krpm all the way to its redline, where a K20 will need to boot it hard and start serious pull above 5Krpm.
The only downside for K24A2 or K20A2 engine is, both are high-compression engine, and will be too much to handle if you decide for the FI route. Therefore, people who enjoy FI will go for K24A3 (Accord/Element) block/K20 for more headroom to build on. Low compression, fat torque down low, and room for high rpm is the best way to describe those Frank-silly setup.
I get what you mean, but if you look into the torque curve, K24A2 (full swap for those RSX guys + RBC/RBB/or PRC IM P&P + I/H/E) will sloping down once it past 6.5K+ rpm, even w/ K-Pro tuned redline @ 8.5Krpm. On the other hand, the K20A has an advantage on the torque curve (sloping upwards) w/ appropriate mod once it past 6.5K+ rpm.
When I said the K24 is not gaining much power on the high rpm, it's not a bad thing at all. Consider it has power down low from usable 3Krpm all the way to its redline, where a K20 will need to boot it hard and start serious pull above 5Krpm.
The only downside for K24A2 or K20A2 engine is, both are high-compression engine, and will be too much to handle if you decide for the FI route. Therefore, people who enjoy FI will go for K24A3 (Accord/Element) block/K20 for more headroom to build on. Low compression, fat torque down low, and room for high rpm is the best way to describe those Frank-silly setup.
11-08-2007, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by visuelz
you don't but you risk a higher chance of blowing the motor.
11-09-2007, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
I guess take a crack at it.. but boosting and running 11K rpms?.. nah i cant see it. good luck with that.
11-09-2007, 07:15 AM
#61
Originally Posted by CL9er
boost wont be that much... only gonna be half bar....
11-09-2007, 11:45 AM
#62
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Originally Posted by visuelz
you're a crazy guy. good luck to your project =]. dyno some results when you get a chance to do this haha.
... and thats on a stock block... i'm working on the a3 for now.... then i'm gonna tackle my k20a hybrid motor... and once that goes in the car.... i'll work on the k24... destroke it to k22... it'll take a year or more to build each motor....
11-09-2007, 04:52 PM
#64
Special-K
Originally Posted by CL9er
i hear that from my friends... i just got a kit for my k20a3 that put outs 240whp with a base map tune ... and thats on a stock block... i'm working on the a3 for now.... then i'm gonna tackle my k20a hybrid motor... and once that goes in the car.... i'll work on the k24... destroke it to k22... it'll take a year or more to build each motor....
... and thats on a stock block... i'm working on the a3 for now.... then i'm gonna tackle my k20a hybrid motor... and once that goes in the car.... i'll work on the k24... destroke it to k22... it'll take a year or more to build each motor....
11-09-2007, 11:24 PM
#65
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
Whats with you and going with lower displacement?? haha K24 to K22? Why?
11-10-2007, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
OMG.. this is backwards!..haha why not stroke the K20 to a 2.2??
11-10-2007, 12:18 AM
#68
Special-K
Originally Posted by CL9er
doing that you'll have to bore out the block... thinning the piston wall is never a good idea...
11-10-2007, 12:39 AM
#69
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
Toda makes a stroker kit for the K20.. i dont think its a 2.2 though, i think its a 2.1 (2157cc)
crower has 2.2 for k20 & 2.6 for k24, IIRC
11-10-2007, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
Toda makes a stroker kit for the K20.. i dont think its a 2.2 though, i think its a 2.1 (2157cc)
but destroking the k24 will let you keep the torque but you'll also be able to rev higher... i't do a stroker for a k20... but it won't have as much torque as a destroked k24...
11-12-2007, 04:17 AM
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If you can get your hands on an SMSP header, descentmods, and a Tune that car should be stupidly fast. weight reduction hopefully your car is a base model without navi or all the heavy stuff.
11-12-2007, 05:35 AM
#73
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Originally Posted by EuroRuben97
If you can get your hands on an SMSP header, descentmods, and a Tune that car should be stupidly fast. weight reduction hopefully your car is a base model without navi or all the heavy stuff.
11-12-2007, 11:04 AM
#74
Drives With Hands
Originally Posted by CL9er
stroking is good... but destroking the k24 will let you keep the torque but you'll also be able to rev higher... i't do a stroker for a k20... but it won't have as much torque as a destroked k24...
but destroking the k24 will let you keep the torque but you'll also be able to rev higher... i't do a stroker for a k20... but it won't have as much torque as a destroked k24...With a larger displacement you can spool a bigger turbo, too. I would be more inclined to forge the bottom end of a K24 block, leave the compression alone, and shoot for low-RPM torque. A high-revving four banger with the displacement of a soda bottle doesn't seem well-suited for such a heavy car as this.
11-14-2007, 03:35 PM
#76
Drives With Hands
Originally Posted by haro_bmx87
j32 swap? =)
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-talk-5/honda-civic-w-j32-cls-motor-354387/
11-14-2007, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rmpage
A longer stroke will always give you more torque than a shorter one, due to the increased radius of the crank throw from the center of the crankshaft. Long stroke (undersquare) engines like the K24 also have better low RPM performance than square or oversquare engines because the increased turbulence of pulling the intake charge through an undersized intake valve results in better mixing of air and fuel within the cylinder.
With a larger displacement you can spool a bigger turbo, too. I would be more inclined to forge the bottom end of a K24 block, leave the compression alone, and shoot for low-RPM torque. A high-revving four banger with the displacement of a soda bottle doesn't seem well-suited for such a heavy car as this.
With a larger displacement you can spool a bigger turbo, too. I would be more inclined to forge the bottom end of a K24 block, leave the compression alone, and shoot for low-RPM torque. A high-revving four banger with the displacement of a soda bottle doesn't seem well-suited for such a heavy car as this.
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