Skirt kit + Floor jack = Clearance problem?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Skirt kit + Floor jack = Clearance problem?
I was considering buying the skirt kit for my TSX. I currently have a 3-ton floor jack which is pretty heavy duty and I jack using the central jack point under the engine when changing the oil.
I'm wondering if anyone has the skirt kit and has found any issues with ground clearance and the jack they use.
(I'll check the amount of clearance my jack provides when I get home and post back.)
I'm wondering if anyone has the skirt kit and has found any issues with ground clearance and the jack they use.
(I'll check the amount of clearance my jack provides when I get home and post back.)
#2
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are you lowered
#6
Most likely you will have problems -- I have the skirt kit and the Aspec suspension.
Regardless if you're lowered or not, many jack levers WILL hit the front lip. I have a 3-ton and I'm not able to use the central jacking point in the front during oil changes.
The only type of jack that will work with the aspec body kit are the longer types where the lifting point is farther away from the lever.
Regardless if you're lowered or not, many jack levers WILL hit the front lip. I have a 3-ton and I'm not able to use the central jacking point in the front during oil changes.
The only type of jack that will work with the aspec body kit are the longer types where the lifting point is farther away from the lever.
#7
06 RSX-S Owner
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Get a race jack. Thats what i use on my lowered RSX. I have a Craftsman 2 ton i believe.
They are the type that Black_6spd is talking about. Much longer jack length to make it under lower cars.
They are the type that Black_6spd is talking about. Much longer jack length to make it under lower cars.
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#9
Just dial 1911
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Originally Posted by Black_6spd
Most likely you will have problems -- I have the skirt kit and the Aspec suspension.
Regardless if you're lowered or not, many jack levers WILL hit the front lip. I have a 3-ton and I'm not able to use the central jacking point in the front during oil changes.
The only type of jack that will work with the aspec body kit are the longer types where the lifting point is farther away from the lever.
Regardless if you're lowered or not, many jack levers WILL hit the front lip. I have a 3-ton and I'm not able to use the central jacking point in the front during oil changes.
The only type of jack that will work with the aspec body kit are the longer types where the lifting point is farther away from the lever.
I've got the kit, and Im lowered and I dont have any problems with my floor jack. Its just the standard $29.95 Sears special 2.5 ton I think it is.
Im lowered 1.5F/1.0R
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dP-
Man I just bought this 3-ton since my 2-ton didn't raise the vehicle high enough! I don't want to end up buying another 3-ton just to fix this!
#11
Originally Posted by joerockt
I've got the kit, and Im lowered and I dont have any problems with my floor jack. Its just the standard $29.95 Sears special 2.5 ton I think it is.
Im lowered 1.5F/1.0R
Im lowered 1.5F/1.0R
Does the lever even come close to hitting the lip? Someone else mentioned on another thread that they have to put a rag between so it doesn't scratch.
#12
Just dial 1911
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Originally Posted by Black_6spd
Thanks. I think you just saved me from buying a $100 jack.
Does the lever even come close to hitting the lip? Someone else mentioned on another thread that they have to put a rag between so it doesn't scratch.
Does the lever even come close to hitting the lip? Someone else mentioned on another thread that they have to put a rag between so it doesn't scratch.
But yea, putting a rag or a towel there would help.
#13
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by joerockt
On the front it does, so what I do is just give it short strokes until it catches and starts lifting.
But yea, putting a rag or a towel there would help.
But yea, putting a rag or a towel there would help.
Or, if you're using those smaller jacks like I do where you can detach the lever, just detach it and give it a few strokes using your hands until it catches... usually you can get away with lifting the car and inch or so first (at that point you should be able to re-attach the lever and continue without clearance problems)
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TSX420J
I have a low profile jack and need to drive my car on some bricks to be able to
fit it under.
This is my jack
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3355_200313355
fit it under.
This is my jack
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3355_200313355
#16
Burning Brakes
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I just got a 2 1/4 Ton jack (& stands) at Sears, on sale. Using the back lift point, it doesn't quite lift the rear wheels all the way. (15" limit) But if I use the jack (?) point on the sides, it lifts enough.
My problem is that there's not enough room for both the jack and a jackstand at the point at the side (where there's an L lip). What's the best place to lift the car? (Or, at least the best place to set it on a stand, once it's already lifted?)
My problem is that there's not enough room for both the jack and a jackstand at the point at the side (where there's an L lip). What's the best place to lift the car? (Or, at least the best place to set it on a stand, once it's already lifted?)
#17
Three Wheelin'
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Optauto offer a Tomioka Racing super slope for lowering car costing at $68.00, check it out: http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TR-SLOPE
I am considering to buy one someday for myself.
I am considering to buy one someday for myself.
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