JTso's initial impression with the Hondata reflash
#1
JTso's initial impression with the Hondata reflash
I only had limited seat time with the reflash last night as it was getting late. The weather outside was mild around 48 degrees and light rain. I started with just normal driving to let the car warm up. A few minutes later I tested the vtec point to verify the reflash was successfully programmed, and it was. I then let her go wild @ WOT in between shifts. The post shift rpm drop was well above the vtec point and therefore, stayed in high cam mode as mentioned by Hondata. The vtec transition was very smooth and not very noticeable. The only clue I had was from the sound of the CAI. What I thought was unusual was at the rev limit rpm point. I have reached the factory rev limit many times before and it never felt like what I experienced last night. As the rpm approaching the last 100 rpm of the rev limit, I heard what sounded like and felt like the vtec crossover point after a CAI install! The sound was very distinguish but I ran out of room at the top to find out if in fact power was increasing, but it sure sounded like it. It sounded like either more power is available or it's about to blow up!
I think a dyno test is in order at this point!
The engine mods I have...
K&N CAI
DC header
Hondata gasket
Hondata reflash
TB coolant bypass
Oil catch can
I think a dyno test is in order at this point!
The engine mods I have...
K&N CAI
DC header
Hondata gasket
Hondata reflash
TB coolant bypass
Oil catch can
#3
Originally Posted by JTso
The post shift rpm drop was well above the vtec point and therefore, stayed in high cam mode as mentioned by Hondata.
#6
Originally Posted by virus7
so does this get rid of the "bog" in power in between shifts? that has been one complaint that i have had, the rpms drop too fast/low in between shifts.
I am going to go out on a limb and say yes it does get rid of it as Jtso mentioned you remain in VTEC which is desirable. mmm definately getting the reflash
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#9
Originally Posted by cmf
JTso-- Are you planning to do any timed runs. I think you and another member ran your cars to verify times, if I am not mistaken (stcok vs modded). Would be interesting to see how they differ now.
#10
Originally Posted by JTso
Yeah, fedlawman and I did some 0-60 and some 1/4 runs using a scantool and a G-tech meter. I might try it again and see how much the reflash improves the time. I also have some previous dyno runs which can be used for comparison.
If you run time with a gtech make sure you run it on the same street you did previously! gtech aren't the most precise(true number values) but they are very accurate(repeatable to a close degree) so even if we didnt' know how fast the car truley is we would know how much hondata shaves off!
#12
Originally Posted by TinkySD
If you run time with a gtech make sure you run it on the same street you did previously! :thumbup: gtech aren't the most precise(true number values) but they are very accurate(repeatable to a close degree) so even if we didnt' know how fast the car truley is we would know how much hondata shaves off!
#13
Originally Posted by virus7
so does this get rid of the "bog" in power in between shifts? that has been one complaint that i have had, the rpms drop too fast/low in between shifts.
The huge difference in gear ratios between 1 and 2 makes performing this shift smoothly at WOT nearly impossible.
#15
Originally Posted by JTso
I only had limited seat time with the reflash last night as it was getting late. The weather outside was mild around 48 degrees and light rain. I started with just normal driving to let the car warm up. A few minutes later I tested the vtec point to verify the reflash was successfully programmed, and it was. I then let her go wild @ WOT in between shifts. The post shift rpm drop was well above the vtec point and therefore, stayed in high cam mode as mentioned by Hondata. The vtec transition was very smooth and not very noticeable. The only clue I had was from the sound of the CAI. What I thought was unusual was at the rev limit rpm point. I have reached the factory rev limit many times before and it never felt like what I experienced last night. As the rpm approaching the last 100 rpm of the rev limit, I heard what sounded like and felt like the vtec crossover point after a CAI install! The sound was very distinguish but I ran out of room at the top to find out if in fact power was increasing, but it sure sounded like it. It sounded like either more power is available or it's about to blow up!
I think a dyno test is in order at this point!
The engine mods I have...
K&N CAI
DC header
Hondata gasket
Hondata reflash
TB coolant bypass
Oil catch can
I think a dyno test is in order at this point!
The engine mods I have...
K&N CAI
DC header
Hondata gasket
Hondata reflash
TB coolant bypass
Oil catch can
#16
Originally Posted by Goldorak
Quick question here, what is the purpose of the "TB coolant bypass" and "Oil catch can" mods?
coolant bypass https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...le+body+bypass
oil catch can https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...le+body+bypass
#18
Originally Posted by TSX Hokie
The RPM drop in the 1->2 shift is due to the poor gear ratios in our transmission and cannot be 'fixed'. However, by raising the fuel cutoff RPM and lowing the VTEC cam switchover RPM, it seems Hondata has increased the available power after shifting into second, which should address the 'bog' issue.
The huge difference in gear ratios between 1 and 2 makes performing this shift smoothly at WOT nearly impossible.
The huge difference in gear ratios between 1 and 2 makes performing this shift smoothly at WOT nearly impossible.
#22
Part 2: 0-60 update!
I just came back testing the 0-60 time after the Hondata reflash. I went back to the scene of the crime where fedlawman and I did some flywheel pre-install testing. My best time then was 7.03.
Some testing data:
Testing equipment = scantool with 0-60 time program.
Outside temp = 50 degress
Road condition = dry
Engine coolant temp = 188 degrees
Intake air temp = 60 degrees
Test runs:
I did a few test runs to familiarize myself how to launch the car as I also replaced my suspension not too long ago. I noticed dumping the clutch didn't do any good. It only induces wheel spins and hops. The worst run was 7.74 and best was 7.03.
Real runs:
Now that I have some idea of what to do, I did three back-to-back runs. The first two with VSA off and the third with VSA on.
I blip the throttle lightly to about 1500 rpm and feather the clutch while only press down 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. When the rpm reaches to 3000 rpm, I floored the pedal and let it rip to redline @7600 rpm. Then shift to second maintaining in high cam. You know what? Now that I have further tested it, I know it's possible to have smooth transition from 1 -> 2 shift while staying in high cam mode!!! However, you must rev it to the last rpm into redline!
Here are the results:
Run 1 (VSA off) = 6.68
Run 2 (VSA off) = 6.68
Run 3 (VSA on) = 6.68
Note: I hit the fuel cut-off during run 2 but manage to keep it in high cam mode.
Some testing data:
Testing equipment = scantool with 0-60 time program.
Outside temp = 50 degress
Road condition = dry
Engine coolant temp = 188 degrees
Intake air temp = 60 degrees
Test runs:
I did a few test runs to familiarize myself how to launch the car as I also replaced my suspension not too long ago. I noticed dumping the clutch didn't do any good. It only induces wheel spins and hops. The worst run was 7.74 and best was 7.03.
Real runs:
Now that I have some idea of what to do, I did three back-to-back runs. The first two with VSA off and the third with VSA on.
I blip the throttle lightly to about 1500 rpm and feather the clutch while only press down 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. When the rpm reaches to 3000 rpm, I floored the pedal and let it rip to redline @7600 rpm. Then shift to second maintaining in high cam. You know what? Now that I have further tested it, I know it's possible to have smooth transition from 1 -> 2 shift while staying in high cam mode!!! However, you must rev it to the last rpm into redline!
Here are the results:
Run 1 (VSA off) = 6.68
Run 2 (VSA off) = 6.68
Run 3 (VSA on) = 6.68
Note: I hit the fuel cut-off during run 2 but manage to keep it in high cam mode.
#26
Originally Posted by Dan Martin
How did you manage to run the same times with VSA on or off?
#27
Originally Posted by Dan Martin
I gotta do this now.
How did you manage to run the same times with VSA on or off?
How did you manage to run the same times with VSA on or off?
Thus, VSA won't kick in to limit the throttle.
#30
Originally Posted by kurt_bradley
If you don't induce heavy wheelspin upon the launch, VSA should never need to intervene. From the method that Johnny employed, his tracking should never break.
Thus, VSA won't kick in to limit the throttle.
Thus, VSA won't kick in to limit the throttle.
#33
Originally Posted by JTso
Since taking the rpm to the rev limit seems to be an important factor. I might just install a sequential shift light to keep things consistent.
i've seen some rsx's install a shift led and put it inside their left AC vent so that it's totally hidden. I don't think it would catch your eye enough in our car however. maybe something integrated into the steering column? I'm again the gigantic shift lights that look like a laser.
#35
Originally Posted by BlackAc036
Dude Jtso, all I have to say is your knowledge is impressive and the depth of your threads is great. I appreciate it and think that you should be commended...
#36
Part 3: Dyno results!
I just got back from the dyno to verify the improvement of the Hondata reflash. The results are pre and post Hondata reflash. There isn't any peak gain but the improvement across the rpm range is where it shines. Note the improvement after 4400 rpm and how flat the hp curve right around 6300 rpm to redline! Also note the greatly improved torque curve! I wonder what if the vtec point can be changed to 4500 rpm...
Btw, I went to the dyno with kangjin but I'll let him post his own results.
Btw, I went to the dyno with kangjin but I'll let him post his own results.