Grounding kits
#41
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I definitely have experienced the problems of insufficent grounds in a car.
I have seen people install a huge wire for their amp and leave an 8Ga for the battery ground. Didn't work out so well...
I am not at all convinced that all of those wires on that thing are useful... I would probably upgrade the engine block ground and the chassis ground. But I'm skeptical of the Cylinder head and the intake manaifold... and the headlihgt ground can just be an upgraded wire to chassis ground IMO.
But I'm open to being corrected... if you are up for it, you could easliy do an experiment. Disconnect a couple of those grounds and see if it makes any difference. I suspect the tranny ground is just helping the engine block ground, and that a bigger engine block ground lead would probably do the same thing. I bet the block ground is doing 90% of the work...
As far as installing that frisbee to the battery terminal, I would definitely get a cleaner-looking terminal.
I have seen people install a huge wire for their amp and leave an 8Ga for the battery ground. Didn't work out so well...
I am not at all convinced that all of those wires on that thing are useful... I would probably upgrade the engine block ground and the chassis ground. But I'm skeptical of the Cylinder head and the intake manaifold... and the headlihgt ground can just be an upgraded wire to chassis ground IMO.
But I'm open to being corrected... if you are up for it, you could easliy do an experiment. Disconnect a couple of those grounds and see if it makes any difference. I suspect the tranny ground is just helping the engine block ground, and that a bigger engine block ground lead would probably do the same thing. I bet the block ground is doing 90% of the work...
As far as installing that frisbee to the battery terminal, I would definitely get a cleaner-looking terminal.
#43
Former Sponsor
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Originally Posted by joerockt
Bringing this one back...Does anyone have have any definitive results on what a grounding setup will do?
"I think I feel this and that" dosent cut it.
"I think I feel this and that" dosent cut it.
I dunno, but at this point I will do anything to get better reception on KDAY (93.5 in socal
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#44
I know this is a little outdated and sorry for being a noob to ask this:
can someone who has this share the indvd lengths of the cable that's required? That would really help as I intend to DIY the cables.
Thanks.
pornstar
can someone who has this share the indvd lengths of the cable that's required? That would really help as I intend to DIY the cables.
Thanks.
pornstar
#47
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Originally Posted by lcrazyaznl
I decided to get T1R grounding kit and voltage stabalizer
about 160. From Speedstar.
So i'll see how it works out, and write something.
about 160. From Speedstar.
So i'll see how it works out, and write something.
#49
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T1R voltage stab and grounding kit for 159 from speedstar.ca I think its more becasue its in canadian money.
So far the install wasn't too bad, but it was a pain getting that one bolt of near the intake due to the rubble arm of the intake made an akward fit for the rachet.
Everything else went swell, no clue where to place the voltage stab, I mounted on the side of the battery case with 3m sticks.
So the idle and lighting dimmed less.
I put more down when I take it out for a spin.
Maybe even dyno if i find where.
#50
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Okay so I had some driving last night and this morning.
-Saw increase boost above 5000 rpms
-Low end torque is evened out
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
-smooth acceleration
-AT shifts and a little pull is created in each shift
-Noticed I dn't get that sudden loss of power at the low end torque, where I hear the intake growl but get no response in acceleration
Overall I like it, it feels repsonsive and alive at all times, I usually got over the fact that i'd try to turn and suddenly theres no power at the lowend and i sit in the intersection with a low growl. Weak growl i'd say also.
Let see how the mileage does, for the most part it idles on drive at 700 which is the same without it and it seems to balance out quickly as well.
-Saw increase boost above 5000 rpms
-Low end torque is evened out
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
-smooth acceleration
-AT shifts and a little pull is created in each shift
-Noticed I dn't get that sudden loss of power at the low end torque, where I hear the intake growl but get no response in acceleration
Overall I like it, it feels repsonsive and alive at all times, I usually got over the fact that i'd try to turn and suddenly theres no power at the lowend and i sit in the intersection with a low growl. Weak growl i'd say also.
Let see how the mileage does, for the most part it idles on drive at 700 which is the same without it and it seems to balance out quickly as well.
#53
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Originally Posted by lcrazyaznl
Okay so I had some driving last night and this morning.
-Saw increase boost above 5000 rpms
-Low end torque is evened out
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
-smooth acceleration
-AT shifts and a little pull is created in each shift
-Noticed I dn't get that sudden loss of power at the low end torque, where I hear the intake growl but get no response in acceleration
Overall I like it, it feels repsonsive and alive at all times, I usually got over the fact that i'd try to turn and suddenly theres no power at the lowend and i sit in the intersection with a low growl. Weak growl i'd say also.
Let see how the mileage does, for the most part it idles on drive at 700 which is the same without it and it seems to balance out quickly as well.
-Saw increase boost above 5000 rpms
-Low end torque is evened out
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
-smooth acceleration
-AT shifts and a little pull is created in each shift
-Noticed I dn't get that sudden loss of power at the low end torque, where I hear the intake growl but get no response in acceleration
Overall I like it, it feels repsonsive and alive at all times, I usually got over the fact that i'd try to turn and suddenly theres no power at the lowend and i sit in the intersection with a low growl. Weak growl i'd say also.
Let see how the mileage does, for the most part it idles on drive at 700 which is the same without it and it seems to balance out quickly as well.
#57
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Originally Posted by lcrazyaznl
Someone point me in the right direction of one possibly?
http://www.xxtuning.com
http://www.bristoldyno.com
#59
Drives With Hands
Originally Posted by Dan Martin
You've got to get it on a dyno. I can't believe a few wires would give you all that gain. Honda needs to fire their electrical engineers.
What would be ideal is for somebody with a LOT of modifications to their engine (lots of aftermarket metal mass, in other words) to do a before/after comparison. A dyno won't tell the whole story. To really ascertain the effectiveness of a grounding kit we need voltage measurements from the individual major metal masses (triple alliteration!) in the engine bay while the engine is at idle and under WOT. This could best be accomplished using an oscilloscope, as the primary artifact a grounding kit seeks to eliminate is electrical noise in the form of ripple; the same thing that causes alternator whine in a car's sound system. Ideally, the O-scope should display a fairly flat trace at all times when the probe is touched to different parts. Some noise is unavoidable and tolerable, though I can't say how much. The thing to do would be to watch what voltage of ripple the O-scope displays before grounding and then after. If it is an appreciable amount, compare that to a dyno result and personal observation of how smooth the engine idles and revs. That will tell you how much good it did. This mod will not be one of those things you can easily appreciate like a reflash or a CAI. It is a purely corrective measure. If you've done your modding correctly and there isn't something wrong with your car, a grounding kit should make absolutely no difference in performance, much in the same way as a band-aid does nothing when affixed to healthy skin.
Anyway, I would be very surprised if a TSX needed a grounding kit unless it had so much extra stuff it was almost a different car. I have way more faith in the Honda engineers than that.
#60
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Originally Posted by madmanmax3000
wow those places are good finds, how would i find one in the boston area?
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http://www.bostondyno.com
#61
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Originally Posted by lcrazyaznl
Okay so I had some driving last night and this morning.
-Saw increase boost above 5000 rpms
-Low end torque is evened out
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
-smooth acceleration
-AT shifts and a little pull is created in each shift
-Noticed I dn't get that sudden loss of power at the low end torque, where I hear the intake growl but get no response in acceleration
Overall I like it, it feels repsonsive and alive at all times, I usually got over the fact that i'd try to turn and suddenly theres no power at the lowend and i sit in the intersection with a low growl. Weak growl i'd say also.
Let see how the mileage does, for the most part it idles on drive at 700 which is the same without it and it seems to balance out quickly as well.
-Saw increase boost above 5000 rpms
-Low end torque is evened out
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
-smooth acceleration
-AT shifts and a little pull is created in each shift
-Noticed I dn't get that sudden loss of power at the low end torque, where I hear the intake growl but get no response in acceleration
Overall I like it, it feels repsonsive and alive at all times, I usually got over the fact that i'd try to turn and suddenly theres no power at the lowend and i sit in the intersection with a low growl. Weak growl i'd say also.
Let see how the mileage does, for the most part it idles on drive at 700 which is the same without it and it seems to balance out quickly as well.
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#62
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Originally Posted by fedlawman
Anther benefit of using a piramid is, your hearing and vision will improve, your allergies will vanish, and your hair will grow back.
Actually, this grounding kit intrigues me. I would be curious in some real results/information also. (especially since it doesn't appear we're getting the reflash.)
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#63
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Theres a different feeling when I drive it now, I can't tell if its loss of power or gain of power. It jsut has a stable feeling between the low end instead of that missing power suddenly in the process of rolling. (injen cai and my cars an at) so I did notice a bunch of changes before and after of the two.
#64
Polar Chicken
OK I bought an HKS kit and will be installing it this weekend, and yes I will take pictures. I am excited for this, I expect a 45hp gain between this and my tornado air filter.
j/k
what I will do is drive a bit before I do it and than drive it afterwards and post my impressions.
j/k
what I will do is drive a bit before I do it and than drive it afterwards and post my impressions.
#67
Driver/Detailer
Bump up from the past. I just replaced the negative terminal to chassis ground cable as well as ran a new cable from the alternator. I used 4 gauge power cable with gold plated connectors. Any difference? None in power. But after grounding the alternator, I felt that the engine started much easier as when compared to just replacing the negative terminal chassis ground. I'll check the engine start again tomorrow to see if it really is an improvement or a coincidence.
#69
Pro
Originally Posted by lcrazyaznl
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
-no lag between the pedal and engine (I used to be able to have it on drive and tap the petal and it would bounce, now it is all at your foot)
I would like better response. Actually I'd like to just have a throttle cable, but that isn't in the cards. Can anyone else confirm that better grounding improves the response between pedal and throttle?
#71
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by rmpage
Without a solid connection to earth ground to provide a zero-reference for voltage it gets a lot harder to cancel out spurious noise in the electrical system, such as noise induced by the spark plugs and static electricity generated by the wheels against the road surface. Car audio systems need so many damn filters because of this. This is also why all home electronics, such as the PC you're viewing this post with, uses three prong grounded plugs.
Electrical noise wreaks havoc with electronics, to include the engine controls and such. They can induce error in digital systems like the ECU and DBW. Therefore, eliminating them and ensuring a high fidelity signal would possibly reveal performance that was being squelched out by EFI in the system.
Now I know next to nothing about the TSX's electrical system specifically, so this is more just my general knowledge of the subject.![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
Electrical noise wreaks havoc with electronics, to include the engine controls and such. They can induce error in digital systems like the ECU and DBW. Therefore, eliminating them and ensuring a high fidelity signal would possibly reveal performance that was being squelched out by EFI in the system.
Now I know next to nothing about the TSX's electrical system specifically, so this is more just my general knowledge of the subject.
![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
the reason home appliances use 3 prongs and one for ground is because household electricity is AC, automotive is DC.
ground wires are freaking snake oil scams, especially when sold for $100+
red ground wires are ass backwards in the electrical world/convention, it's like having a hot water faucet colored blue. It also shows the level of knowledge of people making/buying those things.
If you keep the existing stock ground points clean, that is good enough.
#72
Pro
Being that the car is OBD-II and LEV Tier 2 compliant, I would think that the factory engine management electronics are sufficient.
However grounds are a concern because while the electrical system is theoretically DC, it can be quite noisy. Diode switching noise from the 3 phase regulator in the alternator, inductive kick from the coil packs and the injectors, the brush motors for the fuel pump and blower, the switching frequency of the headlight power supply, etc, etc. Throw in additional albeit minor RF noise from the CAN, all the computers, etc... With a modern car that has all of these gadgets, ground layout is very critical, otherwise you run the risk of creating a tuned circuit.
With that said, I'm sure Honda engineers had all of this in mind when they designed the electrical system. Or perhaps they simply bandaided problem areas here and there to save money? Who knows.
The point is, if you're going to supplement your grounds, go the DIY route. Don't spend tons of money on kits... unless of course you're going for looks and/or have a lot of money to throw about.
However grounds are a concern because while the electrical system is theoretically DC, it can be quite noisy. Diode switching noise from the 3 phase regulator in the alternator, inductive kick from the coil packs and the injectors, the brush motors for the fuel pump and blower, the switching frequency of the headlight power supply, etc, etc. Throw in additional albeit minor RF noise from the CAN, all the computers, etc... With a modern car that has all of these gadgets, ground layout is very critical, otherwise you run the risk of creating a tuned circuit.
With that said, I'm sure Honda engineers had all of this in mind when they designed the electrical system. Or perhaps they simply bandaided problem areas here and there to save money? Who knows.
The point is, if you're going to supplement your grounds, go the DIY route. Don't spend tons of money on kits... unless of course you're going for looks and/or have a lot of money to throw about.
#73
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by junktionfet
Being that the car is OBD-II and LEV Tier 2 compliant, I would think that the factory engine management electronics are sufficient.
However grounds are a concern because while the electrical system is theoretically DC, it can be quite noisy. Diode switching noise from the 3 phase regulator in the alternator, inductive kick from the coil packs and the injectors, the brush motors for the fuel pump and blower, the switching frequency of the headlight power supply, etc, etc. Throw in additional albeit minor RF noise from the CAN, all the computers, etc... With a modern car that has all of these gadgets, ground layout is very critical, otherwise you run the risk of creating a tuned circuit.
With that said, I'm sure Honda engineers had all of this in mind when they designed the electrical system. Or perhaps they simply bandaided problem areas here and there to save money? Who knows.
The point is, if you're going to supplement your grounds, go the DIY route. Don't spend tons of money on kits... unless of course you're going for looks and/or have a lot of money to throw about.
However grounds are a concern because while the electrical system is theoretically DC, it can be quite noisy. Diode switching noise from the 3 phase regulator in the alternator, inductive kick from the coil packs and the injectors, the brush motors for the fuel pump and blower, the switching frequency of the headlight power supply, etc, etc. Throw in additional albeit minor RF noise from the CAN, all the computers, etc... With a modern car that has all of these gadgets, ground layout is very critical, otherwise you run the risk of creating a tuned circuit.
With that said, I'm sure Honda engineers had all of this in mind when they designed the electrical system. Or perhaps they simply bandaided problem areas here and there to save money? Who knows.
The point is, if you're going to supplement your grounds, go the DIY route. Don't spend tons of money on kits... unless of course you're going for looks and/or have a lot of money to throw about.
#74
Pro
That's true--could end up hurting the situation.
Eh, probably best to just keep all the stock connections clean and tight. I've even thought of soldering some of the crimp-on lugs... Seems like my friend's old '99 Integra had that, but I don't think my TSX does.
Eh, probably best to just keep all the stock connections clean and tight. I've even thought of soldering some of the crimp-on lugs... Seems like my friend's old '99 Integra had that, but I don't think my TSX does.
#75
Originally Posted by outersquare
don't make stuff up.
the reason home appliances use 3 prongs and one for ground is because household electricity is AC, automotive is DC.
the reason home appliances use 3 prongs and one for ground is because household electricity is AC, automotive is DC.
#76
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by Spoon
The '3rd prong' is a safety ground and isn't dependent upon AC. It's simply a backup system to provide an alternate pathway to ground in the event there is a fault in either the neutral or hot wire resulting in the case/switch/anything conductive from becoming live, so that the person touching it doesn't get electrocuted.
"In a mains (AC power) wiring installation, the grounding is the wire that carries currents away under fault conditions."
wikipedia
I am just saying it's a part of AC wiring, not to improve signal quality/performance as implied earlier by someone else.
#77
Drives With Hands
Originally Posted by outersquare
I am just saying it's a part of AC wiring, not to improve signal quality/performance as implied earlier by someone else.
#78
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I'm going to disconnect my DIY ground wire kit, see if I detect any difference in starting, idle, throttle response, smoothness, etc. My initial impression when I installed it (months ago) was that starting was easier, throttle response was smoother, and idle was smoother. I'll report my impressions after disconnecting.
Next time I'm at the dyno, I'll try to remember to do a before/after ground wire test.
Next time I'm at the dyno, I'll try to remember to do a before/after ground wire test.
#79
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by rmpage
You might want to research the differences between a signal ground and a power ground a bit more thoroughly.
Originally Posted by rmpage
Without a solid connection to earth ground to provide a zero-reference for voltage it gets a lot harder to cancel out spurious noise in the electrical system, such as noise induced by the spark plugs and static electricity generated by the wheels against the road surface. Car audio systems need so many damn filters because of this. This is also why all home electronics, such as the PC you're viewing this post with, uses three prong grounded plugs.
Electrical noise wreaks havoc with electronics, to include the engine controls and such. They can induce error in digital systems like the ECU and DBW. Therefore, eliminating them and ensuring a high fidelity signal would possibly reveal performance that was being squelched out by EFI in the system.
Now I know next to nothing about the TSX's electrical system specifically, so this is more just my general knowledge of the subject.![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
Electrical noise wreaks havoc with electronics, to include the engine controls and such. They can induce error in digital systems like the ECU and DBW. Therefore, eliminating them and ensuring a high fidelity signal would possibly reveal performance that was being squelched out by EFI in the system.
Now I know next to nothing about the TSX's electrical system specifically, so this is more just my general knowledge of the subject.
![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
wiki
you first
#80
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by kennungesser
I wonder if the weight of all that copper would negate any performance gained? Something to think about.
What I'm more worried though is the creation of ground loops where there are multiple paths to ground from the same component and it forms a loop by which small currents can loop in.
If anyone here owns one of the early generation Shuttle mini computers, you'll understand as it is the same problem that they had with the front headphone jacks. They had 3 ground points and as a result, current looped and created noise in the headphone channel. It was irritating, like the sound through your speakers when you have an incoming call on your mobile phone.