Fog Light DIY Question
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Fog Light DIY Question
I recently purchased a factory fog light kit (turn signal stalk version) and it came with a later revision of instructions than what you can download from www.handa-accessories.com. On the newer instructions it lists the tools I will need, one of which is a "Clip Remover" but I can't find that part on any parts site or find any information about it when I search these forums.
Now I am wondering if I should even attempt this install myself, but the dealership wants $270... so would there be any way I could break $270 worth of stuff trying to install the fogs or am I worrying too much? Thanks!
Now I am wondering if I should even attempt this install myself, but the dealership wants $270... so would there be any way I could break $270 worth of stuff trying to install the fogs or am I worrying too much? Thanks!
#2
Suzuka Master
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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No... it is very simple. The toughest part is getting the stalk off. I did it in 2003 having never taken a part of the car (it had 3k miles on it at the time).
You ought to consider taking the resonator off and doing a CAI at the same time.
You ought to consider taking the resonator off and doing a CAI at the same time.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you for the quick reply. I could probably do it myself but I was just outside fiddling with those clips and I'm afraid of breaking them without having the proper tool. I guess removing the bumper and removing the interior pieces are my biggest worry. So anyone have any idea where to buy this special "clip remover" tool from?
#4
Suzuka Master
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Originally Posted by 26Shaun
Thank you for the quick reply. I could probably do it myself but I was just outside fiddling with those clips and I'm afraid of breaking them without having the proper tool. I guess removing the bumper and removing the interior pieces are my biggest worry. So anyone have any idea where to buy this special "clip remover" tool from?
Honestly... special tool is a flat head. Once you pop that top up, the clip comes right out. Warm the motor up before you start. If the plastic is cold, it is more likely to break. After that, it is 2 or 4 10mm bolts and 2 screws. So very simple. Just make sure you put the right clips back into the right place (different clips widths and lengths).
#5
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
If you're worried...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bumpe...spagenameZWDVW
but, like moda said, all you need is a flathead..., just stick in the slot and twist little by little. If you try to pry up too soon it'll snap the head off (but still even then you can still reuse the clip). The ones in the engine bay shouldn't be a problem at all. The ones underneath the car might be a little bit harder to get out due to all the dirt and stuff trapped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bumpe...spagenameZWDVW
but, like moda said, all you need is a flathead..., just stick in the slot and twist little by little. If you try to pry up too soon it'll snap the head off (but still even then you can still reuse the clip). The ones in the engine bay shouldn't be a problem at all. The ones underneath the car might be a little bit harder to get out due to all the dirt and stuff trapped.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok so I was messing around trying to remove one of the clips underneath the car and I broke the top piece off. Can I buy these replacement clips at a Honda dealership? Acura is ~90 miles away.
#7
Racer
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I've installed the fogs myself as well. The were a bit of a pain around the steering column like moda_way stated. Pay attention to how the wires connect there, and how the fuse box wires go in. Make sure you have the right position for each wire i nthe box for your fogs, before putting everything back together. Not that I had to re-do it... ah-hem.
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#8
Senior Moderator
Don't worry about a broken clip, just shove it back in there, or leave it off entirely. I'm missing like 8 clips between my bumper and the engine bay now, no sweat off my back.
If you really, really want more, you can order them online from any of the acura parts sites, but they charge something ridiculous for them (between $1.50 and $3 each, depending on size).
If you really, really want more, you can order them online from any of the acura parts sites, but they charge something ridiculous for them (between $1.50 and $3 each, depending on size).
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you all for the replies, I may start on the install tomorrow. I wish someone was around that knew more than what I do about these things. I will just take it slow, perhaps work on the exterior part of the install tomorrow and the interior on sunday.
#11
The Power of a Grill
myself and a few others had a problem with the stalk not being in the right setting - it would stay on high beam all the time. we had to open up our stalk boxes and re-allign the positions, which was a real pain in the ass.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
I just noticed I didn't put my location in my profile. I'm in Virginia about 30 minutes south of Harrisonburg and 30 minutes west of Charlottesville.
One more question, can I easily put the front bumper back by myself or should I have a friend help me line it up? Anything to watch out for there?
One more question, can I easily put the front bumper back by myself or should I have a friend help me line it up? Anything to watch out for there?
#13
The Power of a Grill
bumper is pretty easy, just take your time on the plastic fasteners and make sure you know where every single one is and where they go. i just put a few towels on the ground and slowly took off the bumper - same way with putting it back on (by myself). I would say:
1. take off bumper
2. wire harness up ( including in fuse box, which will grease the hell out of your hands) and zip tie
3. connect new stalk
4. connect housings to the bumper
5. test connections
6. replace bumper
7. alight beams
it always helps to have a friend around with the bumper, especially with putting it back on (easily lines up).
1. take off bumper
2. wire harness up ( including in fuse box, which will grease the hell out of your hands) and zip tie
3. connect new stalk
4. connect housings to the bumper
5. test connections
6. replace bumper
7. alight beams
it always helps to have a friend around with the bumper, especially with putting it back on (easily lines up).
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok so I got everything installed and the car put back together but the damn lights dont work. The fog light indicator on the dash lights up but they aren't on.
I dont know what to do now, I took my time (7 1/2 hours) and was careful with everything!
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
One thing about plugging the wires into the harness. Does the metal connector go completely into the wiring harness or does the slightest little bit of the connector stick out of the back of the harness?
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok well I removed the fuse box again and pushed the wires in as far as they would go. No metal is showing on the connectors now. Everything else works correctly but the fogs just wont light. I have high/low beams, turn signals working and the fog indicator cuts off when the high beams cut on but the damn things just wont light! I'm going nuts.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Well I have checked absolutely everything over. I'm going to need a voltmeter I guess, because everything is connected perfectly. There is something seriously wrong, either with the switch or the relay which is all that I can figure at the moment. Anyone care to chime in with any other thoughts?
#19
The Power of a Grill
i told you. it's not electrical. if you open the switch box, you will see that your lights work on a series of springs to turn on and off, high, low blinkers and fogs. mine came messed up and so did someone elses (kyotousa)....we had to physically open the boxes up and re-align the switches. im talking about the switch on the steering wheel. you will understand when you open up the box. or don't...it's kinda taking a chance i guess, but it solved the problem for us.
#20
The Power of a Grill
Originally Posted by San-AnT
myself and a few others had a problem with the stalk not being in the right setting - it would stay on high beam all the time. we had to open up our stalk boxes and re-allign the positions, which was a real pain in the ass.
||||
if you can wait a day or two i can take a picture of the original stalk box open so you can understand (not at home today). just pm me to remind me.
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
I guess if I pick up a multi-meter and check the wiring that will tell me if it's really the switch or something else. I didn't quite understand what you were talking about at first, San-Ant, but I do now.
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
Here is the wiring diagram that came with the instructions.
![](http://cronus.sitheris.net/fogwire.jpg)
Now, I tested all 4 leads that plug into the relay and two of them have voltage with the fog switch on and only one has voltage with the fog switch off. I guess the next step would be to test the connection after they go through the relay but that would be at the connectors for the fog light bulbs. Also, just to be sure I switched the fog light fuse out and that didn't fix it either. If there is no voltage at the fog light connectors that would indicate a bad relay, correct?
![](http://cronus.sitheris.net/fogwire.jpg)
Now, I tested all 4 leads that plug into the relay and two of them have voltage with the fog switch on and only one has voltage with the fog switch off. I guess the next step would be to test the connection after they go through the relay but that would be at the connectors for the fog light bulbs. Also, just to be sure I switched the fog light fuse out and that didn't fix it either. If there is no voltage at the fog light connectors that would indicate a bad relay, correct?
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok so now I'm at this point... when the fog light switch is on, it's sending a small amount of voltage (I assume signalling the relay) through the blue/black wire which runs through to the 14-pin harness on the bottom of the fuse box. When the fog switch is off there is no voltage along this same wire. I am not getting any voltage at all through the blue/orange wire whether the switch is off or on but there is small amount of voltage running through the blue/yellow wires to the fog light connectors depending on if the switch is off or on. I tested connections at the relay, the fog lights, and the connectors in the 14 and 20-pin harness. I dont have a complete wiring diagram but I guess that I will need to see one before I can proceed any further.
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
I made an appointment at the dealership for this problem. I've had enough... I'm assuming the relay is bad but with no wiring diagram from the fog light switch to the fuse box I dont know what to do.
Could someone with a multi-meter do me a favor and disconnect the plug from the fog light relay (it's mounted on the driver's side strut tower) and check the voltage of each connector with the fog light switch off and on. I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
Could someone with a multi-meter do me a favor and disconnect the plug from the fog light relay (it's mounted on the driver's side strut tower) and check the voltage of each connector with the fog light switch off and on. I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
#25
Instructor
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Did you get this figured out?
The blue/orange wire should ALWAYS have 12V on it. Check your fuses. You may actually need to ADD a fuse for your new fig lights, but I don't think so.
Blue/black should be ground when the switch in ON. (It may actually appear to be low voltage on multi-meter). It should be disconnected otherwise.
Blue/yellow should carry 12V when the switch is on, and depends on the above 2 conditions.
The blue/orange wire should ALWAYS have 12V on it. Check your fuses. You may actually need to ADD a fuse for your new fig lights, but I don't think so.
Blue/black should be ground when the switch in ON. (It may actually appear to be low voltage on multi-meter). It should be disconnected otherwise.
Blue/yellow should carry 12V when the switch is on, and depends on the above 2 conditions.
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
No I didn't get it figured out but thank you for the reply, matvey. I tested the prong on the connector that the blue/orange wires plugs into and I'm not getting any voltage there with the switch off or on. Perhaps this is where my problem lies... thank you for the lead on that. I dont know what to do because that connector is controlled by something I dont have a wiring diagram for.
#27
Instructor
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You may try to just connect the blue/orange wire directly to the battery. But... first: make sure that this wire has to be hot at all time (I think so), second: fuse it.
Good luck
Good luck
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes I probably could do that, but I would really like to know why it doesn't receive power from the place it is designed to. It's probably some very small detail I'm missing.
#29
The Power of a Grill
shaun - please believe me. it is not an electrical problem. myelf and others have had this problem. the plastic components inside the stalk box sit in a set of springs. one is left to right (for blinker) and one is front to back. it must sit in the middle for high/low/fogs to work. Mine and others came sitting off-center, thus not allowing the connections inside the stalk to be made. that is why your high beam flashes when you pull the stalk towards you and stays on high when you push it forward. if you want to save yourself some money, spend a little time and open the box and set it right. the only hard part is that you will not know if you put it in the right spot until you test it out, so it may take a few tries.
.last time i will explain this.
.last time i will explain this.
#30
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by 26Shaun
Here is the wiring diagram that came with the instructions.
![](http://cronus.sitheris.net/fogwire.jpg)
Now, I tested all 4 leads that plug into the relay and two of them have voltage with the fog switch on and only one has voltage with the fog switch off. I guess the next step would be to test the connection after they go through the relay but that would be at the connectors for the fog light bulbs. Also, just to be sure I switched the fog light fuse out and that didn't fix it either. If there is no voltage at the fog light connectors that would indicate a bad relay, correct?
![](http://cronus.sitheris.net/fogwire.jpg)
Now, I tested all 4 leads that plug into the relay and two of them have voltage with the fog switch on and only one has voltage with the fog switch off. I guess the next step would be to test the connection after they go through the relay but that would be at the connectors for the fog light bulbs. Also, just to be sure I switched the fog light fuse out and that didn't fix it either. If there is no voltage at the fog light connectors that would indicate a bad relay, correct?
You have a problem. There should be voltage on two of the wire in the relay "ALL the time. Car on, or not. The Stalk only sends ground to the rely, and then it is energized.
Also make sure you have grounded the fogs.
You can connect the blue orange to any hot and the lights should work.
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you all for the replies. I will try connecting the blue/orange wire to another power source this weekend and let you know the results.
San-Ant, that is exactly how my old stalk was. The high beams are supposed to stay on when you push the stalk forward and they flash when you pull the stalk towards you because of the "flash-to-pass" feature which flashes your headlights and highbeams on, when the headlights are off. I do appreciate your help with everything thus far and if you could post information on how to take apart the stalk I'd appreciate it. I will try it and let you know the results. I just didn't think this could've been the problem at first because of the fact that everything works exactly the same as it did before, the fog indicator in the dash even comes on when the fog switch is on.
...that is why your high beam flashes when you pull the stalk towards you and stays on high when you push it forward.
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
Well I took the stalk box apart and fiddled around with the springs and such but I'm still not having any luck. I guess I'm going to go ahead and keep my dealer appointment. Since factory accessories are covered under a one year warranty (and fully covered for the 4 year 50k if installed by the dealer) do you think they will charge me to find the problem and repair it? How will they know I installed the fogs myself? I hate to be dishonest and not fess up to it but I did the install flawlessly IMO. Aside from one $2 bumper clip broken it's a perfect install (except for the fact the lights dont work). I've never been to the particular dealership I'm visiting this weekend so they have no history on my car aside from what they can look up.
#33
Three Wheelin'
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I was trying to follow what you guys were doing here but you seem to have lost me. I bought a kit from ebay and when i went to put the lights in the right place on the bumper, the connections weren't correct. I had to use my own bolts to keep it place and the wiring wasn't anywhere remotely close to matching up. So my buddy and i, who is an electrician, just jerry-rigged it and ran it straight off the battery to the switch and tucked the relay modual up into the underside of the dash. It works but i HATE the switch. The switch sticks out from the slot next to the VSA button like 1/2"-3/4" (i'll take pics when i can) so i was wondering, does anyone know where i can but just a switch? Maybe the JDM switch since that seems to fit for most people? I was also thinking, would the VSA switch work for the fogs too? If i can't find a nice switch i'll just hook up a toggle switch but i would like to have a matching one if anyone has any info that would help me out!
#34
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by jwood_04TSX
I was trying to follow what you guys were doing here but you seem to have lost me. I bought a kit from ebay and when i went to put the lights in the right place on the bumper, the connections weren't correct. I had to use my own bolts to keep it place and the wiring wasn't anywhere remotely close to matching up. So my buddy and i, who is an electrician, just jerry-rigged it and ran it straight off the battery to the switch and tucked the relay modual up into the underside of the dash. It works but i HATE the switch. The switch sticks out from the slot next to the VSA button like 1/2"-3/4" (i'll take pics when i can) so i was wondering, does anyone know where i can but just a switch? Maybe the JDM switch since that seems to fit for most people? I was also thinking, would the VSA switch work for the fogs too? If i can't find a nice switch i'll just hook up a toggle switch but i would like to have a matching one if anyone has any info that would help me out!
Just get a foglight swich for a 94 honda accord. It will fit the dash perfectly
#35
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by dwest1023
Just get a foglight swich for a 94 honda accord. It will fit the dash perfectly
#36
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by jwood_04TSX
Where can i order that, just through any Honda dealer?
YES, you can order through a honda dealer. That is how I got mine. You might want to order the switch harness as well, unless you want to make your own.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=4&pp=25
#37
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by dwest1023
YES, you can order through a honda dealer. That is how I got mine. You might want to order the switch harness as well, unless you want to make your own.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=4&pp=25
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=4&pp=25
#38
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by dwest1023
YES, you can order through a honda dealer. That is how I got mine. You might want to order the switch harness as well, unless you want to make your own.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=4&pp=25
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=4&pp=25
#39
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by jwood_04TSX
Did you mean 2004 accord, or 94 accord? I think you meant 2004....
Sorry, 2003 accord. The 2004 is probably the same. The dealer can show you a picture of the switch.
#40
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by jwood_04TSX
I just looked at your other site and i think that is similar to what i did. I did not hook it up to the parking lights though. I just have the switch hot to the battery all the time to just turn it on and off whenever i want and it is completely independant of anything else. Do i NEED the switch harness in addition to the switch as well? If so, do i just cut my existing wire to fit the switch harness for easier connection?
If you already have a switch harness, then it might just plug into the back of the new switch.I don't like the battery idea, cuz you can leave the ligjht on by mistake, and run the battery down. The way mine is connected, the fogs will cut off by themselves along with the parking lights if I leave them on. I never run the fogs without parking lights on. I prefer that look.