Drl Diy
08-03-2006, 12:08 PM
#1
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Drl Diy
ok, so after two weeks of waiting, i finally got my DRL kit from P.U.M.A., the US distributor for Hamsar. This kit allows the high beams on only (no low beam) as daytime running lamps at 40%, with a cutoff for low and high beams, parking break, and removal of key. The kit cost about $40.
Unfortunatley, I dont have my freakin car right now. However, I will start with the wiring diagram for the module. It looks pretty simple and straightforward, but Im sure i will have some problems. I will update frequently and should be done by saturday.
The kit comes with the module, the wiring harness, two self tapping screws and a bag of wire taps/connectors.
btw, hamsar also has a kit for just the fogs as DRLs at 60%
Unfortunatley, I dont have my freakin car right now. However, I will start with the wiring diagram for the module. It looks pretty simple and straightforward, but Im sure i will have some problems. I will update frequently and should be done by saturday.
The kit comes with the module, the wiring harness, two self tapping screws and a bag of wire taps/connectors.
btw, hamsar also has a kit for just the fogs as DRLs at 60%
08-03-2006, 12:35 PM
#3
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no. but i travel many, many highway miles and want my lights on without using the HIDs. also, i have nokya yellow h1 bulbs and want to show them off.
08-03-2006, 01:56 PM
#5
I'm also interested in DRLs, but I thought that the solution would be to acquire the necessary hardware from Canadian spec TSXs.
Can I ask how this setup works? So this would work by having the high-beams on all the time (at 40%). Then the HIDs would come on only after you manually turned them on, as opposed them turning themselves on when it is night-time?
Can I ask how this setup works? So this would work by having the high-beams on all the time (at 40%). Then the HIDs would come on only after you manually turned them on, as opposed them turning themselves on when it is night-time?
08-03-2006, 02:03 PM
#6
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yes, manual operation would override. i believe that's how the canadians work also - i have been told that there is no light sensor on the tsx for the headlights.
it works like this:
stalk all off w/ parking break engaged = all off
stalk all off = high beams @40%
stalk parking = high beams @40%
stalk low beam/hid = low beam/hid only
stalk high beam = high beam @100% + low beam/hid
there is a cutoff wire for lowbeam and higbeam and parking break. i may experiment a little with the options (low+high@40%, 40% w/ parking break engaged since mine is a 6mt)
it works like this:
stalk all off w/ parking break engaged = all off
stalk all off = high beams @40%
stalk parking = high beams @40%
stalk low beam/hid = low beam/hid only
stalk high beam = high beam @100% + low beam/hid
there is a cutoff wire for lowbeam and higbeam and parking break. i may experiment a little with the options (low+high@40%, 40% w/ parking break engaged since mine is a 6mt)
08-04-2006, 07:02 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by San-AnT
i may experiment a little with the options (low+high@40%, 40% w/ parking break engaged since mine is a 6mt)
Why does having an MT mean you want DRLs on even with the parking brake set?
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08-04-2006, 01:27 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by jpt
Why does having an MT mean you want DRLs on even with the parking brake set?
08-06-2006, 07:53 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by STM
Where did you get it? I wanna have one too!!! 
Originally Posted by iILoveMyHonda
what i would want to have is to have the ability to have the HID and Highs on at 40%......now that would be showing off the nokyas!
cuz i have em too
cuz i have em too
but i still dont have my car!!! so many broken promises...
08-08-2006, 11:08 PM
#12
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soooo easy. I used the TL forum's instructions for another module and got it going. I actually only tapped into two wires - the ignition wire and the high beam wire. I left the low beam and parking brake wire untouched. I grounded the ground and crank wires and connected the positive wire to the battery (+). The pics are horrible right now because i did it in the dark, but i will take better pictures tomorrow with more details of the connections.
ignition sensor wire
tap into ignition sensor at wires going to wipers - that long black cylinder is an end of the neuspeed strut bar (wire is green)
tap into high beam
DRL/parking only (no hid, it just picked up a reflection)
DRL/HID/fog
High Beam/HID
do you think i'll get pulled over at night? maybe i should tap into the HID wire also?
ignition sensor wire
tap into ignition sensor at wires going to wipers - that long black cylinder is an end of the neuspeed strut bar (wire is green)
tap into high beam
DRL/parking only (no hid, it just picked up a reflection)
DRL/HID/fog
High Beam/HID
do you think i'll get pulled over at night? maybe i should tap into the HID wire also?
08-08-2006, 11:13 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by San-AnT
soooo easy. I used the TL forum's instructions for another module and got it going. I actually only tapped into two wires - the ignition wire and the high beam wire. I left the low beam and parking brake wire untouched. I grounded the ground and crank wires and connected the positive wire to the battery (+). The pics are horrible right now because i did it in the dark, but i will take better pictures tomorrow with more details of the connections.
ignition sensor wire
tap into ignition sensor at wires going to wipers - that long black cylinder is an end of the neuspeed strut bar (wire is green)
tap into high beam
DRL/parking only (no hid, it just picked up a reflection)
DRL/HID/fog
High Beam/HID
do you think i'll get pulled over at night? maybe i should tap into the HID wire also?
ignition sensor wire
tap into ignition sensor at wires going to wipers - that long black cylinder is an end of the neuspeed strut bar (wire is green)
tap into high beam
DRL/parking only (no hid, it just picked up a reflection)
DRL/HID/fog
High Beam/HID
do you think i'll get pulled over at night? maybe i should tap into the HID wire also?
08-09-2006, 12:48 PM
#17
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More pictures and a little instruction:
I need to clean it up and tie off some wires so they wont be loose. as i found out the hard way, always run the wires underneath everything first. dont just go nuts and wire it up to see if it works first like i did.
ordered unit from: http://www.puma-access.com/online-store/scstore/
maybe a vendor can organize a group buy from hamsar
I didn't connect the yellow parking break switch wire either. i want the lights to stay on when i pull the parking break.
I need to clean it up and tie off some wires so they wont be loose. as i found out the hard way, always run the wires underneath everything first. dont just go nuts and wire it up to see if it works first like i did.
ordered unit from: http://www.puma-access.com/online-store/scstore/
maybe a vendor can organize a group buy from hamsar
I didn't connect the yellow parking break switch wire either. i want the lights to stay on when i pull the parking break.
08-09-2006, 01:44 PM
#18
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ok. problem. it seems the lights cutting off after a few minutes. maybe the ignition switch wire does not stay on. if i pull the bright stalk, they turn back on and stay on for a few more minutes. i gotta see what i can do.
08-14-2006, 06:48 PM
#20
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my high beam tap was not secure, so it was on and off. that is why the low beam kept coming off, not because of a sensor (i think). i think i eventually shorted out the box with the loose connection and it now stays on high beam all th time - even if the key is out. the box has pretty much become a pass through for the high beams at full power. i have contacted the manufacture and am awaiting a response.
the only other thing to test is to check the ignition tap to make sure it is good.
i'll keep everyone updated. i will probably have to create a new thread once i get it on good so that it can be more informative and less scattered.
the only other thing to test is to check the ignition tap to make sure it is good.
i'll keep everyone updated. i will probably have to create a new thread once i get it on good so that it can be more informative and less scattered.
09-02-2006, 11:20 AM
#21
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Ok, got the replacement kit. it was my connections that were bad and ended up making the module blow. new one works perfectly. just as a warning - make sure ALL wires that are going to be connected are connected SECURELY before connecting the module. looks just like before, i can take more pics anybody wants.
also, i placed the module on the side interior wall next to the CAI tubing going down. the battery case is not a flat enough surface for velcro.
also, i placed the module on the side interior wall next to the CAI tubing going down. the battery case is not a flat enough surface for velcro.
09-02-2006, 01:43 PM
#23
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link and instructions on post #17
direct link: http://www.puma-access.com/online-st....cfg+160-45035
it seems the price has gone up about 15-20 bucks, but it is the same kit and has everything you need (harness, module, set of taps)
direct link: http://www.puma-access.com/online-st....cfg+160-45035
it seems the price has gone up about 15-20 bucks, but it is the same kit and has everything you need (harness, module, set of taps)
11-03-2006, 11:29 AM
#25
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two months later and they still work perfectly. i've had a few compliments on the DRLs around down.
i found a better ground and cleaned up the wires so now it is very clean
i found a better ground and cleaned up the wires so now it is very clean
11-04-2006, 12:47 AM
#27
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what, you don't like fuzzy, hard to see pictures with loose wires everywhere?
I'll update this weekend when i find my camera battery charger.
I'll update this weekend when i find my camera battery charger.
12-13-2006, 03:08 PM
#29
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I noticed when i'm driving in the daytime and i pull the stalk back (towards me) for example to signal to someone, both the high-beams and the HIDs turn on, is it supposed to be like this?
Thanks.
Thanks.
12-13-2006, 04:51 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by nnh768
I noticed when i'm driving in the daytime and i pull the stalk back (towards me) for example to signal to someone, both the high-beams and the HIDs turn on, is it supposed to be like this?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Yes?
12-13-2006, 11:53 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by KunalPatel87
Is there anyway to get the DRLs to turn off when you turn on your headlights?
i bought the hamsar drl kit too, i think you have to connect the orange wire to the hid power wire, i didn't do it because its a pain to get to.
... I got it.
12-13-2006, 11:57 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by nnh768
i bought the hamsar drl kit too, i think you have to connect the orange wire to the hid power wire, i didn't do it because its a pain to get to.
12-14-2006, 02:55 PM
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I see so many foget to turn on their lights when necessary BECAUSE they have DRL and have headlights on so the forget or are just not thinking. So in the fog, they go "Head lghts on, no problem" but no tail lights so a rear-ender is a good bet. All bulbs have a life, so "on" all the time (even at reduced) means they will dim faster over time burn out faster. Using the high beams is a good idea since you must have lows so if they burn out, you are still OK AND Xenon bulbs are what to replace? $100 + ?
12-14-2006, 11:08 PM
#38
The Power of a Grill
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^^ you lost me.
you can also wire the yellow wire to parking lights to get the DRL to turn off when you turn on your lights. mine stay on.
it won't work with a light sensor. it's a simple relay - power, no power.
you can also wire the yellow wire to parking lights to get the DRL to turn off when you turn on your lights. mine stay on.
it won't work with a light sensor. it's a simple relay - power, no power.
12-14-2006, 11:10 PM
#39
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btw, i dont forget to turn on my lights because my Nav screen is so freakin bright at night, i remember to turn on the lights to dim the screen.
12-15-2006, 07:47 AM
#40
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Some cars have auto on when it gets dark. I was once following a Camry through a winding , hilly road with trees on both sides. Their lights kept going on and off due to the shady and sunny parts. I imagine some people feel like they can drive with more, shall we say, abandon dure to safety features and they become more unsafe than the features can overcome. When anti lock brakes first came out, people would back off when the pedal stuttered and lose the advantage because of lack of knowledge.
I still feel that motorcyclists have been sent to the past. A law was passed years ago that they had to have their lights on to be seen in traffic, so they would stand out. They no longer stand out with all the DRL. If everyone had their lights on when they were supposed to, and the cops enforced it, the price of DRL's could be taken off our cars. My '68 Camaro cost 26 HUNDRED, not 26 thousand.
I still feel that motorcyclists have been sent to the past. A law was passed years ago that they had to have their lights on to be seen in traffic, so they would stand out. They no longer stand out with all the DRL. If everyone had their lights on when they were supposed to, and the cops enforced it, the price of DRL's could be taken off our cars. My '68 Camaro cost 26 HUNDRED, not 26 thousand.