Rotor removal --- a little help please?
Rotor removal --- a little help please?
Okay, so I ordered some Rotora slotted rotors for my wife's TSX. Today I removed everything, but i can't get the screws out to remove the rotors from the axle. There are two screws and they are extremely tight in the threads. I tried unscrewing them but they just wouldn't budge and noticed the screws began stripping. 
It's not stripped completely because I can still fit the screwdriver in pretty snug. So now I'm trying to figure out another solution. Should I get a screwdriver with a deeper head?
Basically, what is the best way to remove the rotors without stripping the screws?

It's not stripped completely because I can still fit the screwdriver in pretty snug. So now I'm trying to figure out another solution. Should I get a screwdriver with a deeper head?
Basically, what is the best way to remove the rotors without stripping the screws?
Impact driver tool.
Or the cheaper but not as 100% effective method, hit the screwdriver handle dead-on with a hammer while twisting. This forces the bit into the screw and prevents it from popping out and stripping the screw head, and also loosens the rust bond that keeps it so tight in the threaded hole as well.
Or the cheaper but not as 100% effective method, hit the screwdriver handle dead-on with a hammer while twisting. This forces the bit into the screw and prevents it from popping out and stripping the screw head, and also loosens the rust bond that keeps it so tight in the threaded hole as well.
Thanks for all the help guys. I used the impact driver, but the impact bits broke!
So I basically got a pointed tool and tapped the screws until they turned. It took a while, but they finally gave way. Those screws were pretty tight. 
Anyway, here are some pics of the complete job with a fresh wash.

Driver's side:

Passenger's Side:

Fresh Wash:

Profile 1:

Profile 2:

Profile3:
So I basically got a pointed tool and tapped the screws until they turned. It took a while, but they finally gave way. Those screws were pretty tight. 
Anyway, here are some pics of the complete job with a fresh wash.
Driver's side:

Passenger's Side:

Fresh Wash:

Profile 1:

Profile 2:

Profile3:
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Since the driver's side pic is missing, here it is again.
Driver's side:

Passdenger's side:
You can't mix OEM nuts with aftermarket nuts. You need to get rid of the OEM one. It's not seating properly on your wheel. They're made differently and are not interchangeable.
I triple checked that. The driver's side has the slots flowing away from the front of the car. I thought the passenger side would be the same thing, but the slots face forward. When I ordered them, I made sure I got both sides.
Since the driver's side pic is missing, here it is again.
Driver's side:

Passdenger's side:

Since the driver's side pic is missing, here it is again.
Driver's side:

Passdenger's side:

Full edit: It shouldn't matter on the SLOTS direction, but on the internal cooling vanes, as per Zeckhausen (a very well respected manufacturer):
http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm
http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm
Last edited by curls; Aug 10, 2009 at 11:36 AM.
Full edit: It shouldn't matter on the SLOTS direction, but on the internal cooling vanes, as per Zeckhausen (a very well respected manufacturer):
http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm
http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm
Thanks again!!
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As mentioned above it doesn't matter in this case b/c the vanes are not curved. The TSX disc is a factory straight vane so the slots can face the front or back. However, ROTORA recommends the slots face the front of the car. So it would look like this:
Front of car \
Front of car \
I would speculate that the recommendation for the slot direction is based upon air movement in the disc area. Since the higher pressure should be at the outside edge of the disc, especially in the front, the groove should channel brake material generated gases to the inside portion of the rotor...
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