Questions about oil change
#1
Questions about oil change
I am already ~700 miles over recommended 3000 miles interval for oil change. Last time I got the oil change from Jiffy Lube and I paid almost the same amount I would have paid at the dealer. So, I thought of changing the oil myself this time. I saw some tutorials that discuss the oil changing. I am planning to get the Mobil-1 Synthetic oil. I have a few questions regarding that.
1) If I use synthetic oil, what is the frequency of oil change? (still 3000 or does it go to 5-6K?)
2) The tool that should be used to remove the the oil changing nut is not discussed in the forums before. Does anyone know what kind of tool I should use?
3) Can anyone tell me the filter model I should use with 05 TSX?
I don't have any previous experience of oil change. Since AAA does it for $20 (with their oil), I am planning to get it done there (with synthetic oil that I give).
Sorry for the duplication if these issues were discussed before. I searched for them and couldn't find the answers.
Thanks in advance.
1) If I use synthetic oil, what is the frequency of oil change? (still 3000 or does it go to 5-6K?)
2) The tool that should be used to remove the the oil changing nut is not discussed in the forums before. Does anyone know what kind of tool I should use?
3) Can anyone tell me the filter model I should use with 05 TSX?
I don't have any previous experience of oil change. Since AAA does it for $20 (with their oil), I am planning to get it done there (with synthetic oil that I give).
Sorry for the duplication if these issues were discussed before. I searched for them and couldn't find the answers.
Thanks in advance.
#2
1) I run M1 synthetic and get my oil analized every time. I'm currently running 7,500 miles intervals and the UOA shows everything is fine.
2) The drain plug? Just use a wrench. I have a combination wrench that fits it, don't remember the size though. Maybe someone else here knows what size it is.
3) I generally use the K&N filter cause it's got a 1" nut on the back so I don't have to worry about not being able to get it off if I overtighten it or something like that. It's hard to reach it from teh top and the bottom, so the nut makes it easier than trying to get one of those filter wrenches on it. I don't remember the model number, but your local auto parts store will have a book that will tell you which filter you should use. Just look up the car by make and model and year.
I definitely suggest changing the oil yourself. It's really easy and much cheaper than those Jiffy Lube places.
2) The drain plug? Just use a wrench. I have a combination wrench that fits it, don't remember the size though. Maybe someone else here knows what size it is.
3) I generally use the K&N filter cause it's got a 1" nut on the back so I don't have to worry about not being able to get it off if I overtighten it or something like that. It's hard to reach it from teh top and the bottom, so the nut makes it easier than trying to get one of those filter wrenches on it. I don't remember the model number, but your local auto parts store will have a book that will tell you which filter you should use. Just look up the car by make and model and year.
I definitely suggest changing the oil yourself. It's really easy and much cheaper than those Jiffy Lube places.
#4
1. Theoretically by going synthetic you can change it every 5-6k. However, I do mine every 4k - and the oil is already starting to get a little dark at 4k.
2. The drain bolt is either a 16mm or 17mm - i forget
3. Oil filter is the same as 80% of Honda/Acuras. Only Honda/Acura's that are different (IIRC) is the Honda S2000, NSX, and Acura RL. Just got to HONDA (They charge more at Acura) and ask for a oil filter, they won't even ask for what car since they're all the same. They're ~11$ each.
2. The drain bolt is either a 16mm or 17mm - i forget
3. Oil filter is the same as 80% of Honda/Acuras. Only Honda/Acura's that are different (IIRC) is the Honda S2000, NSX, and Acura RL. Just got to HONDA (They charge more at Acura) and ask for a oil filter, they won't even ask for what car since they're all the same. They're ~11$ each.
#5
1. I switched to synthetic (Royal Purple) and change every 5K. That's almost dead-on with what the oil life meter says too. At 5K oil meter is like 20%.
2. answered
3. I just ordered a 6-pack of filters from here: http://www.handa-accessories.com/tsx04.html for ~$30. Also don't forget the drain plug washers. They are crush-washers and should be replaced each time.
2. answered
3. I just ordered a 6-pack of filters from here: http://www.handa-accessories.com/tsx04.html for ~$30. Also don't forget the drain plug washers. They are crush-washers and should be replaced each time.
#6
Another perk of the UOA is that it gives me a nice comparison between brands and specs to find a good one. As it turns out, there's not much difference between the synthetics. The very expensive ones are a little better, but still only worth it if you get them on sale. That's why I stick with M1 now. You can find them on sale at Wal-Mart for like $18 for the 5 quart bottles, which is what the K24 takes. Castrol Edge, Amsoil, RP, and Penzoil's high end synthetic (I forget the name, Platinum maybe?), are also pretty nice.
I keep getting the UOA mostly for peace of mind. If you figure out how to interpret them, you can see which components are wearing the most, how much fuel is getting into your oil (which can be an early indicator of more serious engine problems), and if there's any water or other insoluables in it. The UOA gives you your oil's viscosity which of course changes as the oil is used, and its remaining addatives.
I send mine to Blackstone Labs. You should check them out. They can answer your UOA questions better than me.
#7
shebro, relax on the 3K oil change interval- almost any oil will be able to last 3000 miles.
Oil Change places recommend 3000 oil change intervals to increase profits and the likelyhood of stripping your oil drain bolt or threads. Modern oils with cleaner/tighter engines go much farther on an oil change than your Grandfather's Oldsmobile did in yesteryear.
If you use a quality conventional or synthetic oil and follow a 5K (or MID) oil change interval, you won't have any problems going out to 200-300K miles- probably much farther than any of us will actually own our cars for.
The oil analysis is a nice, but certainly not necessary for most people. To get a standard + TBN analysis at Blackstone will set you back about $35- that equates to an oil change using a good synthetic oil and a filter (like Purolator, M1 or K&N). For me, I'll skip the analysis and use good oil and filter instead.
For anyone interested, you should really check out www.bobistheoilguy.com- that site has gobs of information. A properly maintained Honda motor will run for a very long time- I wish I could say the same about the Honda Automatic Transmission though. The AT will be the weak point for most people and perhaps the AT should get its oil changed more frequently than Acura's recommended 60K.
Oil Change places recommend 3000 oil change intervals to increase profits and the likelyhood of stripping your oil drain bolt or threads. Modern oils with cleaner/tighter engines go much farther on an oil change than your Grandfather's Oldsmobile did in yesteryear.
If you use a quality conventional or synthetic oil and follow a 5K (or MID) oil change interval, you won't have any problems going out to 200-300K miles- probably much farther than any of us will actually own our cars for.
The oil analysis is a nice, but certainly not necessary for most people. To get a standard + TBN analysis at Blackstone will set you back about $35- that equates to an oil change using a good synthetic oil and a filter (like Purolator, M1 or K&N). For me, I'll skip the analysis and use good oil and filter instead.
For anyone interested, you should really check out www.bobistheoilguy.com- that site has gobs of information. A properly maintained Honda motor will run for a very long time- I wish I could say the same about the Honda Automatic Transmission though. The AT will be the weak point for most people and perhaps the AT should get its oil changed more frequently than Acura's recommended 60K.
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#9
itchytoe, every oil change man? maybe do it once every 3 changes. its like your just giving them free money. as long as you dont go over your mileage interval for oil changes, theres an ultra low probability of anythign going wrong. i sent in a sample for analysis on my last conventional oil change before i switched over to synthetic. im gonna wait 3 synthetic oil changes before i test again. maybe its the fact im spending so much money lately im looking for ways to cut back and thats why im amazed you are getting it done everytime for $20. but if your feeling generous and wanna donate a feel oil sample to a fellow acurazine member, im down for that!
#10
Thanks for all the replies.
I tried to do it today. I removed the front wheel (towards the passenger side) and tried to remove the drain bolt. But, it was so tight that I gave up after some time. I guess I have to take it to the oil change shop tomorrow.
I tried to do it today. I removed the front wheel (towards the passenger side) and tried to remove the drain bolt. But, it was so tight that I gave up after some time. I guess I have to take it to the oil change shop tomorrow.
#13
I think taking the wheel off is easier, frankly. I did my first-ever DIY oil change yesterday on my beloved TSX, and having the wheel off makes reaching the filter a whole lot easier. I even had it up on a jack stand. I imagine, based on the way I did it, while I reached in for everything (drain bolt, filter, etc.), that not only would the wheel be in the way if you left it on, but the ramps could be in the way as well.
#14
1. Theoretically by going synthetic you can change it every 5-6k. However, I do mine every 4k - and the oil is already starting to get a little dark at 4k.
2. The drain bolt is either a 16mm or 17mm - i forget
3. Oil filter is the same as 80% of Honda/Acuras. Only Honda/Acura's that are different (IIRC) is the Honda S2000, NSX, and Acura RL. Just got to HONDA (They charge more at Acura) and ask for a oil filter, they won't even ask for what car since they're all the same. They're ~11$ each.
2. The drain bolt is either a 16mm or 17mm - i forget
3. Oil filter is the same as 80% of Honda/Acuras. Only Honda/Acura's that are different (IIRC) is the Honda S2000, NSX, and Acura RL. Just got to HONDA (They charge more at Acura) and ask for a oil filter, they won't even ask for what car since they're all the same. They're ~11$ each.
The drain bolt is 17MM, but don't forget a 10MM socket for the trap door to get at it. I agree with the cruch washer advice, but if you have to use the old one, it's doable if you file off the ridge on the washer that was created the first time it was crushed. I wouldn't make a habit of it, but it works.
All kinds of filters out there. I use K&N, but there are plenty of good ones. Can't go wrong with a Honda filter I guess.
#15
You can buy the oil and just bring it to your local repair shop have them do it, that's what I do. Five quarts of Mobil 1 and a new filter every 6k miles for me. I know I can go longer intervals on synthetic oil but I do a lot of city driving.
The local shop charges me $20 to replace the oil and filter with the stuff I give them and I am out in less then 15 minutes. The total including parts & the $20 labor is about $50, still $29.99 cheaper than the Acura dealer which charges $79.99
I been out of warranty a while, so no more dealer maintenance for me.
The local shop charges me $20 to replace the oil and filter with the stuff I give them and I am out in less then 15 minutes. The total including parts & the $20 labor is about $50, still $29.99 cheaper than the Acura dealer which charges $79.99
I been out of warranty a while, so no more dealer maintenance for me.
#16
I've been changing the oil and oil filter in my '04 every 5k miles. I buy the cheap 'Super Tech' synthetic 5w30 (rumor says it's basically re-branded Pennzoil/Quaker State...but I'm not positive) and matching cheap 'Super Tech' filter from Walmart (woot!). They've both received decent reviews...and any synthetic oil has to be better than standard oil.
Anywho...so far so good!
Anywho...so far so good!
#17
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil and oil filter.
1) I change every 5000 miles which is fine. Oil can last for a while but I try to stick to the 5000 mile interval.
2) 17mm socket wrench. If the dealer changed your oil last it will be a real PITA to get off. I used a breaker bar. I do not remove my wheel and my car is lowered. I jack it up, sit on jack stands and then change the oil.
3) I use the Mobil 1 filter but any store should have a guide for which filters they carry that fit the TSX. The Mobil 1 filter is M1-110 iirc.
1) I change every 5000 miles which is fine. Oil can last for a while but I try to stick to the 5000 mile interval.
2) 17mm socket wrench. If the dealer changed your oil last it will be a real PITA to get off. I used a breaker bar. I do not remove my wheel and my car is lowered. I jack it up, sit on jack stands and then change the oil.
3) I use the Mobil 1 filter but any store should have a guide for which filters they carry that fit the TSX. The Mobil 1 filter is M1-110 iirc.
#18
We have an '06 with the maintanince (sp =X) system and we only drive the car about 3 miles round trip a day. Last oil change was in February and the system still says 30% oil life left. Are we hurting anything or the computer right and we should follow it? Sorry to cut in...
#19
We have an '06 with the maintanince (sp =X) system and we only drive the car about 3 miles round trip a day. Last oil change was in February and the system still says 30% oil life left. Are we hurting anything or the computer right and we should follow it? Sorry to cut in...
#20
Short trips will wear out the oil in your car faster. The car's computer attempts to calculate the life of the oil left in the car on the driving habits such as distance, stop and go, speed etc. It's a guesstimate so to speak by the computer as to the life left, not an exact. As far as if you should change it I go by the rule of thumb I was taught at a younger age.
For synthetic I change every 5000 miles or 6 months (I don't drive that far usually either) and for regular dyno oil I do everyone 3K miles or 3 months on my parent's cars. These are recommended intervals for the life but the life of oil can last for quite a bit longer, just better to be safe than sorry.
For synthetic I change every 5000 miles or 6 months (I don't drive that far usually either) and for regular dyno oil I do everyone 3K miles or 3 months on my parent's cars. These are recommended intervals for the life but the life of oil can last for quite a bit longer, just better to be safe than sorry.
#22
I was going to start using synthetic but when i called my acura dealership to book an appointment the techs told me not to waste my money, he said the car is designed for regular oil and you will not see any difference from using synthetic so long as you get your oil changes when yo need them. I than went to my regular mechanic( who has been working with Hondas his entire life) and he told me the exact same thing so i just stick with regular oil and change it every about every 5,000 km or when the car tells me.
#23
As far as your changing intervals...the 3000 should be followed only if you do all city driving. Most times on dino oil you should be able to hit 5k miles easily on mixed driving. On synthetic you can usually go between 6-7,500 miles.
To give you some perspective, when my sister had her 08 Accord with the MM system, she easily got between 6500-8000 miles between oil changes on mixed driving, and the MM system only factors in dino oil.
Since your 05 doesn't have the MM system the manual has a window between 3k (or 3500) city-7500 miles for the highway. If you do mixed driving and take the middle of the road number of 5k you are still in Honda's window and as long as you keep records of when you change the oil (and oil receipts) you should have all of the documentation you need should anything happen.
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