Oil type question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 751
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From: Calgary
Oil type question
I'm taking my car in the morning for an oil change. I'm wondering which grade or type is prime for the tsx. I have free oil changes for life, so i can go with whatever is in it, mobil 1, or whatever else i want.
What should i go with, and what are the benefits of switching to synthetic?
thanks
TSX Cman
What should i go with, and what are the benefits of switching to synthetic?
thanks
TSX Cman
Thriller
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 0
From: NY
Originally Posted by TSX Cman
I'm taking my car in the morning for an oil change. I'm wondering which grade or type is prime for the tsx. I have free oil changes for life, so i can go with whatever is in it, mobil 1, or whatever else i want.
What should i go with, and what are the benefits of switching to synthetic?
thanks
TSX Cman
What should i go with, and what are the benefits of switching to synthetic?
thanks
TSX Cman
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 20,558
Likes: 5
From: Long Beach, CA
I'm pretty sure your free oil changes from your dealer only apply to the standard Honda motor oil your dealer uses. 5W-30 is the weight. If you want Mobil1 you'll probably have to bring some yourself or pay extra for it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
people are getting sidetracked from the WRONG PART OF THE THREAD. free oil changes from a mechanic shop owned by a family friend, my dad's bestfriend. we've helped him out. he does oil changes for our 6 vehicles.
what oil should i get, and does it matter?
and thanks jkljkj for the 5W-30 note. thats one option.
i can get mobil 1. worht it?
what oil should i get, and does it matter?
and thanks jkljkj for the 5W-30 note. thats one option.
i can get mobil 1. worht it?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,966
Likes: 13
From: Walnut Creek, CA
No...I'd use the EP formulation over the regular M1...EP formulation holds it viscosity better, and has a higher level of AW additives. The higher Ca value means more detergent, thus the higher TBN and longer service life.
If your car has <10,000 miles, I HIGHLY suggest changing with conventional @5000 miles and then switching to M1 EP at 10,000, so that you can give the engine to finishing breaking in, and allow for the wear metals to drop.
Drains >5,000 miles should NOT be done when the car has <10,000 as the rings have not fully seated and the oil is subject to more rapid degradation, from "blow-by."
Besides, changing at 5K intervals with conventional is less expensive and often delivers the same results.
Michael
If your car has <10,000 miles, I HIGHLY suggest changing with conventional @5000 miles and then switching to M1 EP at 10,000, so that you can give the engine to finishing breaking in, and allow for the wear metals to drop.
Drains >5,000 miles should NOT be done when the car has <10,000 as the rings have not fully seated and the oil is subject to more rapid degradation, from "blow-by."
Besides, changing at 5K intervals with conventional is less expensive and often delivers the same results.
Michael
TSX
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
From: here
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
No...I'd use the EP formulation over the regular M1...EP formulation holds it viscosity better, and has a higher level of AW additives. The higher Ca value means more detergent, thus the higher TBN and longer service life.
If your car has <10,000 miles, I HIGHLY suggest changing with conventional @5000 miles and then switching to M1 EP at 10,000, so that you can give the engine to finishing breaking in, and allow for the wear metals to drop.
Drains >5,000 miles should NOT be done when the car has <10,000 as the rings have not fully seated and the oil is subject to more rapid degradation, from "blow-by."
Besides, changing at 5K intervals with conventional is less expensive and often delivers the same results.
Michael
If your car has <10,000 miles, I HIGHLY suggest changing with conventional @5000 miles and then switching to M1 EP at 10,000, so that you can give the engine to finishing breaking in, and allow for the wear metals to drop.
Drains >5,000 miles should NOT be done when the car has <10,000 as the rings have not fully seated and the oil is subject to more rapid degradation, from "blow-by."
Besides, changing at 5K intervals with conventional is less expensive and often delivers the same results.
Michael
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Wow ur using EP already ? I'm wondering if I should even use EP on my car.. I just broke 10k and is using M1 with 5k intervals.
I use M1 EP on my Accord with 115K on it. Whats your strategy with EP, are you going to use EP for like the 15k advertised mileage but change the oil filter at each 5k or higher or not at all ? Top off with more EP when you change filters ?
I was thinking of doing that but was going to wait a bit longer than 10k.
I use M1 EP on my Accord with 115K on it. Whats your strategy with EP, are you going to use EP for like the 15k advertised mileage but change the oil filter at each 5k or higher or not at all ? Top off with more EP when you change filters ?
I was thinking of doing that but was going to wait a bit longer than 10k.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,966
Likes: 13
From: Walnut Creek, CA
ForceSHO,
Its too soon to tell whether M1 EP will last the full 15K...not enough UOAs yet. It probably can, in fuel efficient, 4-cyl and 6-cyl CAR engines.
If you do decide to do a filter change, I'd change the filter at 7500 and top-off.
BTW, M1 EP is nothing more than the old Mobil 1, API SL version.
Michael
Its too soon to tell whether M1 EP will last the full 15K...not enough UOAs yet. It probably can, in fuel efficient, 4-cyl and 6-cyl CAR engines.
If you do decide to do a filter change, I'd change the filter at 7500 and top-off.
BTW, M1 EP is nothing more than the old Mobil 1, API SL version.
Michael
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