minkl81

iTrader: (2)

Just got home from work and a oil change today and I think synthetics are much better than regular oils. Engine runs a LOT smoother than before.
Was going to get oil changed at Acura dealer but they raised the price recently to $35 and told me I could get oil changed somewhere else if I can find a place "cheaper" than them. Well since Acura is alway full on schedule with oil change and with my long work schedule I decided to go Jiffy Lube which is just across from my store. Those guys always come to my store during lunch break so I asked them to get me some discount. And they actually got me 15% off on syn blend oil change.


This is what I did today:
Oil changed with Synthetic Blend and added Lucas Full Synthetic Oil Stabilizer.
Drained some regular coolant out and added in Royal Purple Purple ICE Super Coolant.

Lucas Oil $16
Royal Purple $14
Jiffy Lube Syn Blend Oil Change $33

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=2&loc=show
http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/prpice.html

Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer is way to go Car runs totally different before and after with the use of synthetic oils. Dont know about performance of Royal Purple Coolant but it gives me a peace of mind during this hot weather. hehe

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Why not just use full synthetic oil / Honda Type2 coolant and forget about all those extra additives?

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

I saw the demo of Lucas oil additives and those oil really sticks to the metals than non-mixed ones. It was tempting so I wanted to try it.

And I didn't know about Honda Type 2 Coolant. So they last 10 years huh?? O wellz.. Already done...

joerockt

Saw the demo? Ok, infomercials never lie

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

It was a real demo setup in various auto part stores where we can crank the gears to see the oil movements. really tempting

Still Water

I agree... Go full Syn or don't go at all. A word to the wise about additives of any kind. When combined with whatever your adding them to you are changing the overall chemical make-up and with it its properties and performance. How do you know you're not doing more harm than good v. the original product?

I use Royal Purple Syn oil and have used Mobil 1 for years and they, and other Syn makers, do not advise using any additives whatsoever. Just a top grade oil filter with anti-siphon. Also, with respect to coolants, break fluids, etc., you better make sure that they are compatible with the seals, fittings, lubricating requirements, etc., of the components in question. The safe thing to do is go with OEM fluids and regular service intervals. Not to go all Zen on ya but the choices you make now reap their results later.

drkangel348

Only Mobil 1 and Honda Type 2 coolant goes in my TSX.





IMO I wouldn't add anything to Honda's coolant.

Still Water

"IMO I wouldn't add anything to Honda's coolant."


I match your agree... and raise you two 's

dontcare4urshyt

Im pretty sure if you have a major malfunction with your engine Acura will blame it on your additives. I wouldnt use anything like that on a car with a warranty. Back in the day when i drove $1000 cars id use those additives because, what the hell.. the cars were already shot. and i will say ive never had any positive results with any of them.

YOTH

Some of you may remember "Miracle Oil" in the yellow square tin can. It kept my $300 1979 Honda CVCC from burning some serious oil when I had to drive my g/f around ... very embarassing when the blue smoke was my GPS marker. Anyways, the car finally died...who knows what the engine looked like after 3 or 4 cans of that shit.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

I have my fair share of additives and remedies in my older cars years ago to "make them better". I poured these plastic pellets in the spark plug holes and a can of "very thick" additive to the crankcase to help seal rings and improve performance. Slick50 to restore performance and increase mileage (yeah, right!). I saw the "demo" of this Camaro which was treated with Slick50 and later drained the crankcase and drain plug removed. The oil pressure was zero. They then drove the car from Portland, OR to Seattle, Wa (approx. 150 miles) with no oil in the crankcase. I immediately bought a can of the product.

There is one product actually works is the "Bar's Leaks radiator/cooling system seal. But be prepare to sell the car afterward. It will stop the leak long enough to fool a potential buyer but it will ruin any rubber seals and clog coolant passages. I don't have that car anymore.

Bill Hook

I'm using something right now called auto-rx, which is a lanolin ester that you add to oil and seems to get good reviews on the bobistheoilguy.com forum for cleaning sludge. I figure a 4 y/o car w/ 90K miles that uses oil could need a little bit of help. I also use redline water wetter in the coolant, which is itself Toyota brand (got it free and figured it had to be as good as Honda's). Additionally, I run pennzoil synchromesh mixed with Honda MTF for around the past 30K miles and find that the car really does shift better.

The only thing I regret using on my car is a K&N filter, which has been found to be one of the worst filters going if you actually want it to filter, rather than flow. I wonder if the GSR's oil use is directly related to running a K&N for 75K miles with CAI?

Still Water

The world loves an honest man... (in theory). Just don't buy an old used car from him.

Seriously, for every job there's a tool. If you have a brand new TSX the goal should be not to create the problem where you need the "tool." Physician's credo and all that.

ForceSHO

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=5;t=002696

JTso

iTrader: (2)

TodaSi

Okay everyone, do me and your Acura a big favor and when you see this demo set-up of Lucas oil additive, spin that sucker as fast as you can for 20 seconds and look at it. Do the same on just the oil side as well. What you will find is a whole shitload of air bubbles on the Lucas side and hardly any on the motor oil side.

Then explain to me how air bubbles (froth) is better for your engine's bearings than plain oil. Dump that stuff out of your Acura as soon as you can.....it's no good, especially in a tight tolerance/high revving Honda engine.

SodaLuvr

Of course your car runs quieter ,
Link

Michael

SodaLuvr

minkl81,
The reason why your car now runs smoother, or quieter, is because Lucas significantly increases your oil viscosity. In the link that I posted above, the oil was originally a 15w-40 with starting viscosity in the mid 14cst range...its ending viscosity after adding 1 quart of Lucas to a 5 quart system yielding an ending viscosity of about 20cst.

The Pennzoil blend J-Lube installed in your car is in the high 10cst range, and with the Lucas, is currently a VERY thick 40wt. Lucas has been known to cause foaming, which is very bad for the engine. If you're wondering why Luca's claims that it can increase oil life by 50%, it is because the additive is also contains a large dose of Ca, which is a detergent and will increase the TBN, total base number meaning amount of active additive in the oil.

I'd highly suggest that you change out this oil immediately with a 5w-30 and stay away from such questionable additives next time.

As for the coolant, ditto. Flush out the system immediately with either the Honda OE coolant, or Prestone All Makes/Models.

If you really want to use an additive beneficial to your car in terms of improving engine cleanliness, oxidation control, solids control, I suggest using Lube Control (LC20) as an additive. It does NOT affect the viscosity of the oil and does NOT cause the oil to foam.

I would NOT add any additives to coolant, but if you'd like to experiment, adding 1-2oz of LC20 to the coolant does have some heat displacing properties, as Terry Dyson has found through his investigation.

Michael

Still Water

Since we're on the subject of the benefits or lack thereof of additives, keep in mind that Syn oils are highly detergent and hold the "crud" engine byproducts in suspension. That's why you don't add a Syn oil to an old, high mileage engine. It'll leak oil like a sieve. You could in theory just replace your "high grade" filter and top-off. Full Syn oil has a high break-down threshold. In today's engines you really have to watch what you do with respect to fluids. Keep in mind the nominal expected life expectancy for a Honda engine. I think they may know what they're doing and I for one would tend to follow their advice.

SodaLuvr

SW,
I'd have to disagree since the reason why high mileage cars "leak" when syn is used is because the dirt is cleaned off of the seal...previously the dirt was helping the seal "not leak," and giving you a false seal.

Thus, Auto-RX is a good product for this app to clean-up and condition those seals, as well as clean off any residue wear metals that exist.

Michael

Still Water

That's basically what I was saying, i.e. highly detergent. I wasn't commenting on Auto-RX or any other additive. I seen the sad aftermath first hand. It's not a pretty sight seeing the old ride pissing oil everywhere and blowing the big blue.

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

No CRAP!!
I didnt know Lucas creates foams. It was so tempting when those oils stick to the gears when I was cranking it. Damn!

I should get another oil change tomorrow with full syn.

What about the Royal Purple Super Coolant?? Should I drain and fill them with Honda Type 2 Coolant?? I can buy them at Honda part stores right?

Wasting money here..

Still Water

minkl81 - Give up the ghost!!! The next thing you'll be looking to get is a "tornado" for your intake.

Bad things happen to those who stay up late at night with a good buzzzzzz on watching info commercials. Do yourself a favor and hide your credit cards

As for the Royal Purple folks - I've been following the Syn evolution for a number of years and have been very happy with Mobil 1. The big shift in acceptance for Syn came when some of the car makers spec'd it as OEM. I personally read up on the RP Syn and its use in racing applications. I figured I'd believe their small guy v. BIG OIL story and give it a try. Like I said earlier, as to other fluids it's safer to go the OEM route for reasons that may not be too evident on first blush.

Do more reading and ask more questions. Discovery is half the fun...

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

I dont watch those informercials at all. For me I should stop going to rice shops and auto part stores like baxter. Because of that I carry 0 credit cards except one debit card for just in case situations. So tempting parts and fluids...

Still Water

Wise beyond your years...

Good to hear that. I was just pulling your chain a bit. But it sounds like you're on the right track. Enjoy the trip.

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

Should I do a engine flush to get all those damn lucas out?? Or regular drain and fill will be enough..?

Much money to spend tomorrow...
Engine Flush if Needed
Oil Change
Radiator Flush
Honda Type 2 coolant

Still Water

As stated on page #1 in the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, "Don't Panic!"

Hit this FAQ link, http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html for a little solice and general info. You can transition your oil over in a couple of oil changes. If you do anything try upgrading the oil filter and get one with an anti-siphon feature. Most engine wear occurs on start-up of a cold, dry engine. If you can keep the filter full of oil and use a "sticky" Syn that'll cling to the metals you'll help address the start-up condition.

As to the cooling fluid I would contact Acura about the required OEM properties and RP via telephone and hit them up with a bunch of ?'s. In the end a cooling flush couldn't hurt anything if done correctly. Don't worry. You haven't killed anything yet...

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Remember don't add any water to the Type2 coolant. It's already pre-mixed out of the bottle.

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

So is there different kind of Type 2 Coolant? "Still Water" is confusing me little bit on the coolant part. Honda Type 2 Coolant is universal for any honda vehicles isn't it? Also I can get them at Honda part shop right? Or I have to go to Acura part shop?

Still Water

Take a breath and stop worrying. I'm no longer up on the different types of coolants out there. JTso would probaly know what's what. I would suggest you call the service department in the morn and ask your questions. As a control on the info you get from them you could call a 2nd dealership and then also a Honda dealership. I hit the Owner's Link and it was as always not worth a bucket of piss. I think it was lime green, Type I piss if I'm not mistaken. But then again I'm a little color blind.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Check the prices from both Acura and Honda dealers. I got it from a Honda dealer which was a lot cheaper and it's exactly the same stuff. Btw, there might be two colors of Type2 floating around. Blue and Green, but it really doesn't matter.

The difference between the old type and the new Type2 is one requires mixing with water, and one is pre-mixed. I don't believe they even sell the old type anymore. The Type2 also offers better boiling protection and longer sevice life.

Note the higher boiling point with a 50/50 pre-mixed when compared to the old type at 50/50 or even at 60/40.

Old type


New Type2

Still Water

You da man. Quickest digicam this side of the Rockies.

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

Thanx

Still Water

Sometimes the system works.

SodaLuvr

Now...don't "flush" that engine.

That is unnecessary. Just change the oil/filter with the EXCELLENT EOP based Jiffy Lube Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30.

I have a Virgin oil analysis of this stuff on BITOG...go take a look at it.

Michael

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

Engine oil flushed out.
Radiator coolant flushed out.
Filled with blue Honda Type 2 Coolant.

Radiator took only about a gallon of coolant. Was our radiator that small?
Regulary it uses about two gallon when flushing the system.

gogozy

careful; mixing coolant... with non OEM will probablt shorten service interval.

gogozy

ooops...
another few liter of coolant in engine jacket oil change is probably good enough

JTso

iTrader: (2)

So how did they flush out the radiator?

gogozy

they probably drain it out only