Lower control arm bushing worn out.
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Lower control arm bushing worn out.
2004 TSX both Left & Right lower control arm bushing are worn out(can I press out & in new ones?). Also have leaking rear strut, in need of repair. Need reliable place to order with OEM/GOOD quality part. Went to AutoZ(*( and left with an expensive quote
I know you guys can help
I know you guys can help
#2
Are you doing the work yourself? TBH, with the time/hassle/expense factor of taking the arm out, driving another car to a shop to have the bushings pressed in, I recommend just buying complete new OEM lower arms and calling it a day (Delray Acura has good prices on OEM parts). As for the rear shock, the complete OEM assembly is pricey and very well may be discontinued. Heeltoe is a forum sponsor and has good prices on good aftermarket suspension parts
The following users liked this post:
gamekiller04 (04-18-2013)
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks KBH
After reading your response I well replace the control arms completely. I will check heeltoe to see what they have in shocks. Keeping the car for 2-3 years before selling it.
Thanks
After reading your response I well replace the control arms completely. I will check heeltoe to see what they have in shocks. Keeping the car for 2-3 years before selling it.
Thanks
#5
What symptoms were you getting to know the lower ball joint was toast? Right now I have a clunk from thea right front when going over bumps at slow speeds. I can't figure out what component is making the noise. Got under it today and everything looks fine. No play in the wheel. Bushings look good. All rubber boots good and no leaks. The car has about 60k and its an 08. The aspec suspension has about 20k on it. I am really really hoping its not that shock or spring. No abnormal noise when turning. Might just take a shot and replace the end links because they are so cheap and easy.
#6
Instructor
I noticed this weekend my lower control arm bushings, the bigger ones, are all cracked. next year I'll get new arms
I just did all new shocks/springs and all new brakes: calipers/rotors/pads. not looking to spend more time and money on lca's. they're not causing driveability issues as of yet
I just did all new shocks/springs and all new brakes: calipers/rotors/pads. not looking to spend more time and money on lca's. they're not causing driveability issues as of yet
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#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I went ahead and replaced both L&R lower control arms with new struts few weeks ago. Bought parts from ROCKAUTO.COM and did the work my self. Total in parts under 400, took a day and a half to get all done. Need alignment done to be fully finished.
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Installing the Lower control arms took some time, I did get upset at one point. I rented the spring compressor from Autozon and bought a complete metric socket set. I read this before doing the work.
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...n-install.html
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...n-install.html
#12
Installing the Lower control arms took some time, I did get upset at one point. I rented the spring compressor from Autozon and bought a complete metric socket set. I read this before doing the work.
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...n-install.html
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...n-install.html
I had to mess with my lower control arm on my passenger side. What made it hard was the lower fork. Other than compressing the spring to be able to raise up the fork is it safe to press the control arm down?
I ended up connecting the control arm to the fork then pushing the arm back into the to joints. Lots of muscle and tiny movements to get those screws to line back up.
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Same here SeaJay! passenger side was giving me the headache. Making those bolt line up was the problem. Took some time and muscle to get it in and having the control arm as straight a possible makes it work. I well try to upload a picture of my bushing to see how bad they where.
#14
Bought new bushings for $27, got old ones pressed out and new ones in for $40.
So overall $67 for new bushings, plus a needed alignment (have lifetime at alignment)
Did it make a difference? My driver sides was completely torn and my passenger side only had surface tears surprisingly. The creaking sound from stop/go from passenger side is gone. It clunks a bit less, might be in my head though
Next are FSB bushings and new endlinks for the FSB. Suspension refresh joy
So overall $67 for new bushings, plus a needed alignment (have lifetime at alignment)
Did it make a difference? My driver sides was completely torn and my passenger side only had surface tears surprisingly. The creaking sound from stop/go from passenger side is gone. It clunks a bit less, might be in my head though
Next are FSB bushings and new endlinks for the FSB. Suspension refresh joy
#15
Advanced
WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER FOR THOSE LCA? I WAS ON THE SITE AND IT HAD NO PICTURE. I DONT WANNA GET THE WRONG PART. i HAVE A 2005 TL
#16
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Front left
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...247&cc=1422155
Front right
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...575&cc=1422155
http://www.rockauto.com/
Hope that helps.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...247&cc=1422155
Front right
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...575&cc=1422155
http://www.rockauto.com/
Hope that helps.
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Bought new bushings for $27, got old ones pressed out and new ones in for $40.
So overall $67 for new bushings, plus a needed alignment (have lifetime at alignment)
Did it make a difference? My driver sides was completely torn and my passenger side only had surface tears surprisingly. The creaking sound from stop/go from passenger side is gone. It clunks a bit less, might be in my head though
Next are FSB bushings and new endlinks for the FSB. Suspension refresh joy
So overall $67 for new bushings, plus a needed alignment (have lifetime at alignment)
Did it make a difference? My driver sides was completely torn and my passenger side only had surface tears surprisingly. The creaking sound from stop/go from passenger side is gone. It clunks a bit less, might be in my head though
Next are FSB bushings and new endlinks for the FSB. Suspension refresh joy
#19
To bring up this thread again... I noticed my ride being a little sloppy and went inspecting all my bushings. Sure enough there are 2 tears on each of these control arm bushings.
With 126k miles I'll probably just replace both arms, as only replacing the single bushing doesn't make too much sense, might as well get all new bushings for both control arms.
I think there are performance bushings out there but I haven't seen any lately.
With 126k miles I'll probably just replace both arms, as only replacing the single bushing doesn't make too much sense, might as well get all new bushings for both control arms.
I think there are performance bushings out there but I haven't seen any lately.
#20
625k or Bust!
I just noticed mine should be replaced soon also. But I got 400k miles out of mine.
tsxtravels.com
tsxtravels.com
#21
Instructor
Getting my LCAs replaced Friday with Moog units. Hopefully they improve something for me. Steering does seem a tad sloppy
Also, when braking while downshifting at higher speeds there's a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal... But stops when I shift into neutral and just use the brakes. So it's not the rotors. I'm assuming it's the LCAs being torqued on... So hopefully that's cleared up too.
Also, when braking while downshifting at higher speeds there's a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal... But stops when I shift into neutral and just use the brakes. So it's not the rotors. I'm assuming it's the LCAs being torqued on... So hopefully that's cleared up too.
#22
625k or Bust!
[QUOTE=CL9 Jon;14966691]Getting my LCAs replaced Friday with Moog units. Hopefully they improve something for me. Steering does seem a tad sloppy
Also, when braking while downshifting at higher speeds there's a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal... But stops when I shift into neutral and just use the brakes. So it's not the rotors. I'm assuming it's the LCAs being torqued on... So hopefully that's cleared up too.
Let us know if this fixes the braking thing. I'm interested. Thx!
Also, when braking while downshifting at higher speeds there's a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal... But stops when I shift into neutral and just use the brakes. So it's not the rotors. I'm assuming it's the LCAs being torqued on... So hopefully that's cleared up too.
Let us know if this fixes the braking thing. I'm interested. Thx!
#24
Advanced
i bought the moog front LCA's and they fit very well - noticed a difference in how the car acted after that.
I personally like moog - i have moog everything on my car. they are a good brand that has quality to OEM standards.
I personally like moog - i have moog everything on my car. they are a good brand that has quality to OEM standards.
#25
Instructor
That seems to be the case from my experience with Moog too... if I would have just bought bushings, they're $60/shipped. Not to mention the extra labor to have them pressed in/out... Tim (my mechanic) doesn't need that hassle
bought the complete LCA's, being that they're only $60/ea and all (3) bushings are already in them
-compliance bushing
-rear bushing
-fork bushing
My mechanic is just knocking it out for me, doing Moog endlinks too, and aligning car. I don't have the time to fight with seized bolts and such.
I may get new bushing for the old arms, have my buddy press them in/out and sell the OEM arms all ready for the next person
bought the complete LCA's, being that they're only $60/ea and all (3) bushings are already in them
-compliance bushing
-rear bushing
-fork bushing
My mechanic is just knocking it out for me, doing Moog endlinks too, and aligning car. I don't have the time to fight with seized bolts and such.
I may get new bushing for the old arms, have my buddy press them in/out and sell the OEM arms all ready for the next person
#26
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
People have got to stop recommending replacement of the entire arm!!
You can press bushes in without having to get crazy.
Just press the joint out using an electric impact gun. Either buy it at HF or rent it from Autozone.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drivers.html
This is what you could use to push the joint out. Not sure if this can be rented.
Or DIY it by building one yourself.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-lca-suspension-bushing-press-891976/
You'll have to adapt one for that particular joint.
I suspect that you have had some time working on cars and you're comfortable doing the work so this should be easy for you. Hope this helps!
You can press bushes in without having to get crazy.
Just press the joint out using an electric impact gun. Either buy it at HF or rent it from Autozone.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drivers.html
This is what you could use to push the joint out. Not sure if this can be rented.
Or DIY it by building one yourself.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-lca-suspension-bushing-press-891976/
You'll have to adapt one for that particular joint.
I suspect that you have had some time working on cars and you're comfortable doing the work so this should be easy for you. Hope this helps!
The following 2 users liked this post by d1sturb3d119:
Clymerdude (04-18-2014),
redpoint (04-17-2014)
#27
Instructor
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Clymerdude (04-18-2014)
#30
Instructor
So, I came to the conclusion that the pulsating at high speed braking is indeed pads deposits buidling up on the rotors... did a fair amount of research but this link sold me: Solved my 3rd-generation 4Runner severe brake pedal pulsation at highway speeds - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
So this morning I bedded my pads in:
-drove normal stop-and-go for ~10 min.
-then did about (6) hard stops from 60-15mph
-then drove without touching the brakes or coming to a dead stop for ~10 min.
Probably at the third or forth I could really tell the difference.
So this morning I bedded my pads in:
-drove normal stop-and-go for ~10 min.
-then did about (6) hard stops from 60-15mph
-then drove without touching the brakes or coming to a dead stop for ~10 min.
Probably at the third or forth I could really tell the difference.
#31
625k or Bust!
finally stepped up and got new bushings in the front lower control arms. It made a pretty big difference. Feels tighter and is definitely quieter! was worth it.
tsxtravels.com
tsxtravels.com
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