How hard to change the rotors?
#1
How hard to change the rotors?
Just ordered F+R e-line rotors from R1 concepts, plus the Assix ceramic brake pads...Would like to ask how hard to change these rotors, or should I just send my car back to dealer and let them change those, but I am afraid it is gonna cost a xxxx load of money!!!
I am living in phoenix, AZ, so if anyone know a good place to change them, that would be awesome...
BTW stock rotors and pads are trash, making weird noise after like a month I brought them
, and the dealer said they can't hear
the squeaking every time I sent it back for check up...
Thanks!!!
I am living in phoenix, AZ, so if anyone know a good place to change them, that would be awesome...
BTW stock rotors and pads are trash, making weird noise after like a month I brought them
![Annoyed](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/annoyed.gif)
![Why Me](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/whyme.gif)
Thanks!!!
#3
Not that difficult to change the rotors and pads. Those screws holding the rotors in place can give you a problem if you don't have the tools. If you have a impact driver, it'll come off without a problem. Other than that, basic mechanics tools, brake cleaner, anti-brake squeal spray and you're good to go. Take your time doing it.
#5
Since you're in Arizona, you may not have the corrosion problems that those of us in the Northeast have, but I had real bear of a time getting those two rotor retaining screws out. Some of the guys here just drilled them out (basically drill the head of the screw off) since many seem to think they're not necessary anyway, but I was determined to get them out (and put them back in with never-seez). I went through I think 4 bits (the phillips head bit for the impact driver)(Craftsman by the way)(broke them, that's how "in there" those screws were) on just the fronts and decided there had to be a better way. I used to do this stuff for a living, but I'll admit that I'm a little rusty, but it occurred to me that I should hit the screw first, and the use the impact driver. Put a good phillips head screwdriver on the screw and whack it a couple of times with a heavy hammer. Then break it loose with the impact hammer and it should come right out. The original hit with the hammer breaks the corrosion, and the impact driver actually loosens the screw. The back rotors came off allot easier. Again, due to your climate, you may not need to go to these extremes, but it worked for me (the car was about 3 1/2 years old then). Do a search on "replacing rotors and pads" and a few variations. There are a couple of great do it yourself threads in here that will walk you through it step by step. It's a very easy job.
#6
Agree. Only thing you will hate are the rotor retaining screws. You really don't need em. Just helps to hold the rotor in place as you put the caliper on. If you're one of those who can't sleep at night without thinking about those precious screws then please have new ones on hand BEFORE you tackle the job as well as a drill out kit.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...word=drill+out
The drill out kit will save your life!
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...word=drill+out
The drill out kit will save your life!
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
79
05-03-2022 08:54 PM