aCUREa

Technically, this isn't a true 'DRL' mod, but I got my high beams lighting up at half-strength like DRLs. The only difference is that I control them with the stock fog light switch instead of having them turn on automatically. The reason is because H1 bulbs are too inefficient and relatively expensive to run as DRL all the time, so I only use them occasionally. The reason I used the fog light switch was simply to avoid adding another aftermarket switch.

The main reason I did this mod was for aesthetics (DRLs are not manditory for my area). Along with my halos, the DRL makes the headlight much more interesting. When you juxtapose two different Kelvin lights, the contrast or difference in their white colors looks really good... 8000K halos around the yellow incand DRL (something like 3200K I guess). Another reason is there is a new wiper law in Ohio mandating some kind of 'headlight' when its raining, so I can now use these instead of burning my HIDs in the day.

Now I have established my car's 'eyes'





^^In real life, you can see this contrast much more sharply and from farther away

Below is DRL only (without halo) and is a little blurry:


Here are the DRL and halos together (the camera won't capture the contrast, but its very clearly there when looking in person)


I still have the option to run only the halos alone without DRL (if I just turn off the fog light switch)


Also, once the low beams turn on, the DRL is disabled, and the fog light switch goes back to controlling only the fogs (like it does stock)


More details:

- Just like the Canadian stock DRLs, mine are given half the battery voltage for reduced brightness by placing the bulbs in series for DRL mode.

- The DRLs and module require the ignition to be in ON to work at all. Without the car on, the fog light switch won't turn on the DRLs even if I press it. This also means I can leave the fog light switch on when I exit, and the DRL will turn on automatically the next time I start the car. Most importantly, this eliminates the risk of battery drain.

- DRLs are automatically disabled once the low beams are turned on (required legally)

- When the passing lights are activated, DRL mode is temporarily interupted so the bulbs get full voltage for brights (required legally)

- The stock fog light switch only ever operates one set of lights at a time.
Low Beams OFF ---> fog switch controls DRLs only (fogs disabled)
Low Beams ON ---> fog switch controls Fogs only (DRL disabled)

- The DRL load must be something like 5-7 amps total.

^^If I turn on the low beams while the DRLs are on, it will switch automatically from DRL to fog light (obviously because they use the same switch).

Let me know what you think of my new eyes...

aCUREa

Step1: Building the Module

If anyone uses this thread to do their own DRL mod, then I'm not responsible for any damages or problems you cause.

Here is a schematic of the module (click on it to make it large enough to read):



I used two SPDT relays rated at 30A continuously with internal diodes, and I built the module in the garage before even going to the car. I had to crimp the terminals onto 16AWG stranded wire leads, insert them into the sockets, and then carefully connect the wires according to my schematic above. These relays will be sufficient for anything in the car running continuously well below the max current rating (30A). On the below link, I got the 30ARKB kit with the option for internal diodes (it includes the sockets and crimp terminals too).
http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp







A note about the relays: I used 'suppressed' relays that contain internal diodes across the coil. This remedies back-EMFs, so I didn't have to add my own diodes. With these relays, its crucial to use terminal 85 as ground or it will blow.

Another note is that with relays for DRL, you have to get the ones that are rated for continuous duty rather than intermittent. A lot of the 'nice' attractive 40A relays at retail stores are actually for intermittent duty (like for a horn), and will die fast if used continuously as with DRLs.

The next step was to get some diodes for the headlight trigger wires. I went to radioshack. The diodes must also be rated at continuous duty and at least 1A max forward current (If). For this I used 1N4000 series diodes (so 1N4004, 1N4005, etc will work). The 1N4000 series diodes will be sufficient for my DRL mod as well as for the original DRL mod on the other thread.


I prewired them before taking them out to the car.


^^pink band tells me which way it points after shrink wrapping

Now the module is built and ready to go.

aCUREa

Step 2: Installation

I started inside the cabin tapping the headlight wires on the wiper/washer switch behind the steering wheel.



Ignore the white wire pointed out below. The pic just shows the wiper/washer plug. The relevant wires are in the same bundle:


Here is a terminal-view of the wiper/washer connector plug showing the wires I tapped. I tapped the fog light wire so it turns on the DRL. I tapped the low and passing inputs so either-or turns off the DRL.


After splicing these, I ran the extension wires down to the footwell area, soldered on diodes, and ran through the firewall to my DRL module.


The next part was mounting the relays, and splicing the wires. I mounted the relays between the airbox and the fusebox... right about here. And you can see how much stuff we took out as well.


My diagram shows the wires to tap. The only wire that I tapped that is not on any other thread is the black/yellow ignition-ON wire (+) under the fusebox below. My mechanic friend dismounted the fusebox so I could splice into the wire underneith (dismounting the fusebox requires battery disconnection first).



Here is the black wire (IG-ON)


It is pin#9 (black/yellow). This is letter [E] on my schematic. Just for some background, it comes from underdash fuse#30 (Hot in ON) and powers the relays in the underhood fusebox (blower motor, A/C condensor fan, radiator fan, etc). I spliced into it to provide a + to my relay coils when the ignition is ON. This potentiates the DRL module when I start the car. Since I already had the airbox removed, I was able to access this wire easily. Without removing the airbox, you're better off tapping the 30A underhood fuse#2 (also hot in ON) with an add-a-circuit.

The next step was tapping the battery terminal. This is letter [D] on my schematic. This powers the actual bulbs during DRL mode. So I connected a mini-blade fuse holder (with a 10A fuse inside) to the battery terminal on the fusebox with an o-ring connector. Note, if you don't use a fuse here, then your DRLs will have absolutely no fuse at all directly from the battery (fire risk).




Finally, I connected the module to the black ground wire of the driver side high beam bulb just like the original DRL mod (didn't have to touch the passenger side bulb). You have to be particularly careful here to connect to the right places because a mix-up will cause a dead short.

Done! It took us all night. We started around 1:30AM and finished around 7:30 (with a few breaks here and there).