HELP ME!! I have 30 minutes. Should I let dealers replace rotors or myself?
#1
HELP ME!! I have 30 minutes. Should I let dealers replace rotors or myself?
Okay, Acura just called me back after 2 hours of dropping the car off. The technician did note that my brakes have problems and he recommends me to resurface them.
Backtrack, my steering wheel vibrates at fwy speeds when braking.
Anyways, they want $255.00 to resurface the rotors + replace brakepads. (front pads are at 8mm, new is 10mm)
Then for the rear, they said the rear pads are worn to 0.5mm from warning. New is 8mm. They want to charge me $195 to replace the pads.
So total, I'm looking at:
$255.00
$195.00
-----------
$450.00 to get rid of minor steering wheel shake during vibration and hesitating braking
Should I do it? Are there cheaper aftermarket front rotors out there that I can buy??? please let me know !
Is there a cheaper alternative? Why the hell are brake pads so expensive? I remember my Civic was like $40 for a pair and they came with life time warranty from Autozone!
Backtrack, my steering wheel vibrates at fwy speeds when braking.
Anyways, they want $255.00 to resurface the rotors + replace brakepads. (front pads are at 8mm, new is 10mm)
Then for the rear, they said the rear pads are worn to 0.5mm from warning. New is 8mm. They want to charge me $195 to replace the pads.
So total, I'm looking at:
$255.00
$195.00
-----------
$450.00 to get rid of minor steering wheel shake during vibration and hesitating braking
Should I do it? Are there cheaper aftermarket front rotors out there that I can buy??? please let me know !
Is there a cheaper alternative? Why the hell are brake pads so expensive? I remember my Civic was like $40 for a pair and they came with life time warranty from Autozone!
#4
Three Wheelin'
If you are capable you can do it yourself, cheaper. You can buy new rotors for what they are charging to resurface. I never resurface my rotors, I just buy new ones. You will have less problems in the long run.
#5
Okay guys, I just called the dealer and told him not to fix it.
I also told him about this forum and how numerous people have problems with rotors/pads failing within 15-30k mile range.
I told him my case appeared after 18k but i didn't bring it in until 23k.
Anyways, I'm going to write a letter to Cerritos Acura about their incompetence and their failure to address this issue because I don't think these things should fail that fast!!
For god sakes, the car was purchased brand new.
My old 1996 civic with 109k miles with new rotors, i drove it to 160k miles, it doesn't even have these problems.
I'll also probably write a letter to American Honda and let them know how they're treating their customers.
I even told the service guy, if you come to this forum, you'll read about how many ppl got their rotors/pads replaced for free (under warranty). And he gives me the big: "Oh really?!!?!" like he was surprised...
i just called Autozone..they said they have the rear pads for $31.99. That sure as hell beats the friggin' $195.00 the dealer wants.
I also told him about this forum and how numerous people have problems with rotors/pads failing within 15-30k mile range.
I told him my case appeared after 18k but i didn't bring it in until 23k.
Anyways, I'm going to write a letter to Cerritos Acura about their incompetence and their failure to address this issue because I don't think these things should fail that fast!!
For god sakes, the car was purchased brand new.
My old 1996 civic with 109k miles with new rotors, i drove it to 160k miles, it doesn't even have these problems.
I'll also probably write a letter to American Honda and let them know how they're treating their customers.
I even told the service guy, if you come to this forum, you'll read about how many ppl got their rotors/pads replaced for free (under warranty). And he gives me the big: "Oh really?!!?!" like he was surprised...
i just called Autozone..they said they have the rear pads for $31.99. That sure as hell beats the friggin' $195.00 the dealer wants.
#6
Senior Moderator
DIY - If I can do it anyone can. Brembo blanks = $50 each. Hawk HPS = $70 front ~$60 rear I think. . $230 total FTW.
And that problem should be under warranty. Acura replaced 3 sets of rotors for me free of charge.
And that problem should be under warranty. Acura replaced 3 sets of rotors for me free of charge.
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#8
Team Owner
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by dom
BTW - Rear pads do wear out fast. Had mine replaced at 23K miles.
And FWIW, the issue is not with the brake rotors, but with the brake pads and the way most people use their brakes. I recommend installing some aftermarket brake pads and a then doing a proper bed-in procedure. I discovered on my 04 that the aftermarket pads completely eliminated the slight shimmy I was beginning to experience, which leads me to believe the problem is not, and never was, the rotors, but rather the brake pads.
#9
Team Owner
Did they specifically say your rotors were warped? If not then it could be the common problem of the OEM pads leaving deposits on your rotors. First, don't let them fix it. Second, get yourself a set of good pads (Hawks as an example, there are others). Have the new pads installed (or DIY) and follow the bed-in process. If it was pad material deposits on the rotors than the bedding-in process for the new pads will remove this material and you should be good to go after a few days. If it still shimmies when braking after that (or you can confirm that the rotors are warped) then you can either have them turned or replaced.
#10
$255 for resurfacing rotors? With that money, you could definitely get upgraded aftermarket rotors. And $195 for new pads? Save your money, source out aftermarket parts (way cheaper), and DIY. There's a couple of good DIY threads on here for replacing rotors and pads.
#11
Originally Posted by vandytsx
This is problem of rotor warp....so it comes under warranty......the guys at acura are trying to rip you off !!!!
tell them to replace the front under warranty and leave the rear alone!!!!!
ITS ITS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!!!!!! GET THE PICTURE??????
DONT MAKE ME POST THIS 5 MILLION TIMES!!!!
WARPED ROTORS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ALONG WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS CAUSED BY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#12
Senior Moderator
You can get front AND back Hawk Ceramic or HPS pads for less than that from our board vendors.
You can also get brand new racing brake front rotors from one of the vendors for the same price you were quoted, and those are supposed to be the best aftermarket ones.
You made the right call not paying the dealer, but now you've got lots of choices for rotor / pad combinations. I've been reading the parts section a lot trying to understand these myself!
You can also get brand new racing brake front rotors from one of the vendors for the same price you were quoted, and those are supposed to be the best aftermarket ones.
You made the right call not paying the dealer, but now you've got lots of choices for rotor / pad combinations. I've been reading the parts section a lot trying to understand these myself!
#13
Team Owner
Originally Posted by CJams
Did you not read this first post?????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????
tell them to replace the front under warranty and leave the rear alone!!!!!
ITS ITS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!!!!!! GET THE PICTURE??????
DONT MAKE ME POST THIS 5 MILLION TIMES!!!!
WARPED ROTORS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ALONG WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS CAUSED BY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tell them to replace the front under warranty and leave the rear alone!!!!!
ITS ITS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!!!!!! GET THE PICTURE??????
DONT MAKE ME POST THIS 5 MILLION TIMES!!!!
WARPED ROTORS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ALONG WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS CAUSED BY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#14
If the front only vibrates when you hit the brakes, they're warped! It's a common problem with the TSX as you know. Can you think of any other "problems" it may be then? I can't. Maybe if it vibrated even when pressure wasn't applied to the brakes, but that's not the case.
#15
Senior Moderator
My problems were solved with Power slot rotors and Hawk ceramic pads. I'm hoping for more than 28k miles out of them (that's when I replaced the OEMs due to vibration & shimmying).
#16
Well the problem happens when I brake on the freeway, the steering wheel shimmys. Also, when braking at local speeds to a full stop, there's like this hesistation feeling.
The technician who test drove my car did not actually "say" warped rotors, but the service rep told me he said he "recommends to resurface rotor + new pads".
In my book, I think the rotors are the problem.
I'm not gonna pay $500 if they don't replace parts. And I don't want to go OEM again cuz it'll probably warp again after 20k miles.
The technician who test drove my car did not actually "say" warped rotors, but the service rep told me he said he "recommends to resurface rotor + new pads".
In my book, I think the rotors are the problem.
I'm not gonna pay $500 if they don't replace parts. And I don't want to go OEM again cuz it'll probably warp again after 20k miles.
#17
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Originally Posted by dom
DIY - If I can do it anyone can. Brembo blanks = $50 each. Hawk HPS = $70 front ~$60 rear I think. . $230 total FTW.
And that problem should be under warranty. Acura replaced 3 sets of rotors for me free of charge.
And that problem should be under warranty. Acura replaced 3 sets of rotors for me free of charge.
#18
Originally Posted by greendestiny
Well the problem happens when I brake on the freeway, the steering wheel shimmys. Also, when braking at local speeds to a full stop, there's like this hesistation feeling.
The technician who test drove my car did not actually "say" warped rotors, but the service rep told me he said he "recommends to resurface rotor + new pads".
In my book, I think the rotors are the problem.
I'm not gonna pay $500 if they don't replace parts. And I don't want to go OEM again cuz it'll probably warp again after 20k miles.
The technician who test drove my car did not actually "say" warped rotors, but the service rep told me he said he "recommends to resurface rotor + new pads".
In my book, I think the rotors are the problem.
I'm not gonna pay $500 if they don't replace parts. And I don't want to go OEM again cuz it'll probably warp again after 20k miles.
I'm done here! If you come out of the pocket for this thats your own fault. you paid for a warranty, use it!
#19
Team Owner
Warped disks or bad pads?
I'm reposting this from the warped rotors thread, specifically post no. 58
Now, I'm not saying this is what greendestiny has. But I recommend trying better aftermarket pads first, before moving onto other more expensive options.
Originally Posted by Jeff Palmer of TOV
It's Time to Rethink the Brake Pads
One item that has escaped Acura's attention is the TSX's brakes. We're going to be brutally honest: the stock brake pads are pretty bad. The feel is okay, but they provide somewhat weak stopping power and are prone to overheating easily (particularly when slowing from freeway speeds). When they overheat, they tend to leave deposits on the rotors, which can lead to a very noticeable and irritating brake shudder. Many people misdiagnose this problem as rotor warpage, but as we proved on our own car, it's really the stock pads chubbing the rotors. It only took a few thousand miles for this problem to appear on our TSX project car, and these were very gentle miles. While the symptoms felt almost exactly like rotor warpage, we decided to swap out the stock pads for some more aggressive aftermarket pads, and the results were simply astounding. Without any rotor resurfacing, the brake shudder and wobble disappeared almost immediately, and within a few days of normal driving, all of the OEM pad deposits were wiped clean from the rotors. To this day, there has been absolutely no brake shudder and brake fade is a thing of the past. Even more impressively, the car has benefitted from a tremendous improvement in braking power. The only downside to this pad upgrade is that the new pads will squeak in very rare circumstances and they generate appreciably more brake dust than the stock pads. Otherwise they are one of the biggest "bang for the buck" modifications out there for the TSX and we highly recommend it. We installed Axxis Ultimates on our TSX, but similar results are likely with any number of other aftermarket fitments.
One item that has escaped Acura's attention is the TSX's brakes. We're going to be brutally honest: the stock brake pads are pretty bad. The feel is okay, but they provide somewhat weak stopping power and are prone to overheating easily (particularly when slowing from freeway speeds). When they overheat, they tend to leave deposits on the rotors, which can lead to a very noticeable and irritating brake shudder. Many people misdiagnose this problem as rotor warpage, but as we proved on our own car, it's really the stock pads chubbing the rotors. It only took a few thousand miles for this problem to appear on our TSX project car, and these were very gentle miles. While the symptoms felt almost exactly like rotor warpage, we decided to swap out the stock pads for some more aggressive aftermarket pads, and the results were simply astounding. Without any rotor resurfacing, the brake shudder and wobble disappeared almost immediately, and within a few days of normal driving, all of the OEM pad deposits were wiped clean from the rotors. To this day, there has been absolutely no brake shudder and brake fade is a thing of the past. Even more impressively, the car has benefitted from a tremendous improvement in braking power. The only downside to this pad upgrade is that the new pads will squeak in very rare circumstances and they generate appreciably more brake dust than the stock pads. Otherwise they are one of the biggest "bang for the buck" modifications out there for the TSX and we highly recommend it. We installed Axxis Ultimates on our TSX, but similar results are likely with any number of other aftermarket fitments.
#20
Originally Posted by jlukja
I'm reposting this from the warped rotors thread, specifically post no. 58
Now, I'm not saying this is what greendestiny has. But I recommend trying better aftermarket pads first, before moving onto other more expensive options.
Now, I'm not saying this is what greendestiny has. But I recommend trying better aftermarket pads first, before moving onto other more expensive options.
I agree. The pad upgrade will do wonders for the braking and most probably the shimmy. Unless you want to upgrade the rotors for other reasons, no need to spend the $$'s if the shimmy problem is fixed after the new upgraded pads are installed.
#21
Originally Posted by greendestiny
Anyways, I'm going to write a letter to Cerritos Acura about their incompetence and their failure to address this issue because I don't think these things should fail that fast!!
Firstly, I'd do what jlukja recommends before resurfacing.
If resurfacing is the issue, keep in mind that Honda's tolerances for rotor parrallelism is much tighter than many brake lathes are capable of. I've had this problem numerous times on my DC2 Integra until I decided to let Team Honda turn them while mounted. After that, I was able to go over 100k before I sold the car.
#24
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by jwood_04TSX
Where are you getting Hawk HPS fronts form $70 Dom?
Looks like I was off with that $70. But I don't think I paid more than 90 or so. Can't rememeber where I ordered from. I'll have to check the bill.
#26
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I've got 30,000kms on my 5AT 2005 TSX. No warpage, no shudder, no steering wheel or butt shake......you guys are braking too hard - causing overheating pads and rotors. The guy is right about most 'warped' brakes being simply deposits from pads, or in other case, the rotors could misalign with large temperature changes.
My suggestion, to the original poster, change the rotors with OEM rotors and just service the original pads as you have indicated there's plenty of material left. Use engine braking to help you (can't recall if your auto or 6spd but you can do it on both - I don't agree with some people saying that its bad for an auto to manually downshift with the SS - it will run through those gears anyways). Most importantly, don't follow so close to other cars and anticipate the lights and you will be able to cruise more freely and have less wear and tear on the car and have a better fuel bill.
It seems to have worked for me.
My suggestion, to the original poster, change the rotors with OEM rotors and just service the original pads as you have indicated there's plenty of material left. Use engine braking to help you (can't recall if your auto or 6spd but you can do it on both - I don't agree with some people saying that its bad for an auto to manually downshift with the SS - it will run through those gears anyways). Most importantly, don't follow so close to other cars and anticipate the lights and you will be able to cruise more freely and have less wear and tear on the car and have a better fuel bill.
It seems to have worked for me.
#27
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Ellas9
I've got 30,000kms on my 5AT 2005 TSX. No warpage, no shudder, no steering wheel or butt shake......you guys are braking too hard - causing overheating pads and rotors.
There's a hell of alot of TSX owners braking too hard then apparently. I've been driving 14 years and gone through 4 or 5 cars and never had this problem. Its not hard braking.
The problem kis likely what jlukja mentioned earlier. Brake pad deposit caused by crappy OEM pads.
#28
Still Lovin my 06
Originally Posted by vandytsx
This is problem of rotor warp....so it comes under warranty......the guys at acura are trying to rip you off !!!!
#29
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dom
There's a hell of alot of TSX owners braking too hard then apparently. I've been driving 14 years and gone through 4 or 5 cars and never had this problem. Its not hard braking.
The problem kis likely what jlukja mentioned earlier. Brake pad deposit caused by crappy OEM pads.
The problem kis likely what jlukja mentioned earlier. Brake pad deposit caused by crappy OEM pads.
#31
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Originally Posted by dom
Looks like I was off with that $70. But I don't think I paid more than 90 or so. Can't rememeber where I ordered from. I'll have to check the bill.
#32
Originally Posted by jlukja
I'm reposting this from the warped rotors thread, specifically post no. 58
Now, I'm not saying this is what greendestiny has. But I recommend trying better aftermarket pads first, before moving onto other more expensive options.
Now, I'm not saying this is what greendestiny has. But I recommend trying better aftermarket pads first, before moving onto other more expensive options.
Here's something you could try first and it costs nothing. I experienced the same thing, started just last month. I have new pads on the way, but after reading the above mentioned thread, decided to attempt to re-bed the OEM pads, if you will.
Went to a completely empty street this past Sunday, and did a quick series of 30-0 mph stops and two 60-0 mph - without holding the brakes, kept moving, u-turn at the end of the street - and the vibration is almost completely gone. All week, so far, no shudder while braking. Night and day difference.
#33
Lots of good suggestions in this thread, but getting them warrantied is the cheapest since its $free.ninetyfree. Well, I guess it's not free since you paid for it when you bought the car.
#35
Instructor
Originally Posted by greendestiny
Okay guys, I just called the dealer and told him not to fix it.
I also told him about this forum and how numerous people have problems with rotors/pads failing within 15-30k mile range. I told him my case appeared after 18k but i didn't bring it in until 23k.
I also told him about this forum and how numerous people have problems with rotors/pads failing within 15-30k mile range. I told him my case appeared after 18k but i didn't bring it in until 23k.
It's gotten particularly bad that when I am trying to adjust my idle speed pulling up behind a vehicle at a stoplight, that the caliper "grabs"down hard on the rotor at a normal pace and then let's up quick to the point I almost rear-end the car ahead of me. If braking on the highway, it will shimmy and vibrate.
The last time I had it checked at 8k, they said my tires were out of balance and charged me for it, it did help some. I too was wondering if there were sturdier aftermarket rotors that can hold up to a few intense braking incidents without turning into complete trash.
#36
I just tried the hard braking method to get rid of the deposits and I heard some funny clunking while doing so. Sounds like ABS is doing something, and it also sounded like a brake line bursted.
Anyways, I think the problem is still there, so I will change the pads soon.
Anyways, I think the problem is still there, so I will change the pads soon.
#38
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Originally Posted by greendestiny
I just tried the hard braking method to get rid of the deposits and I heard some funny clunking while doing so. Sounds like ABS is doing something, and it also sounded like a brake line bursted.
Anyways, I think the problem is still there, so I will change the pads soon.
Anyways, I think the problem is still there, so I will change the pads soon.
Just take out the tire and use a fine sand paper to sand the rotors. If you are going to install a new rotor, you should sand it a little bit too.
#39
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Originally Posted by CJams
Did you not read this first post?????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????
tell them to replace the front under warranty and leave the rear alone!!!!!
ITS ITS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!!!!!! GET THE PICTURE??????
DONT MAKE ME POST THIS 5 MILLION TIMES!!!!
WARPED ROTORS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ALONG WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS CAUSED BY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tell them to replace the front under warranty and leave the rear alone!!!!!
ITS ITS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!!!!!! GET THE PICTURE??????
DONT MAKE ME POST THIS 5 MILLION TIMES!!!!
WARPED ROTORS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ALONG WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS CAUSED BY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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