Help With 04 TSX Suspension!
#1
Help With 04 TSX Suspension!
Hi guys, for the last nearly 4 months now I have multiple issues with my suspension and after replacing end links and bushings I'm at a loss. The car spent its whole life in Wisconsin and i'm the second owner with 145,200 miles on it(got it in 2017 with 113,500) I work for a local Toyota dealer and one day heard a squeak going over bumps and handling was a little lighter. So I took it in and one of the techs said it was my shocks/struts... I had a more advance tech look at the car and said they actually looked fine with no leaking fluid. So we mounted and balanced my tires to see if that would help for now and the squeak went away but my steering everyday was getting lighter. We then checked the alignment and found the rear to be out of spec with camber. At this point it was decided to take it to zimbrick Acura which is the nearest Acura dealer to me and I showed one of the advisers all the paperwork on whats been done to the car. He speaks to the master tech and says its my rear upper control arms causing everything. In my mind, while this may have given insight to the rear being out of alignment that still didn't explain the front end feeling funny/vague steering. I then took the car to a local mechanic who used to work on my Mazda 6 when I had it. They found out I had a bad driver side ball joint so I had it replaced there 2 days later and then a couple weeks later had Acura do the repair on the rear upper control arms. While the car was better it still didn't feel right and then I had a harsh vibration in the steering wheel so then I take the car back and they said that was caused by a seized brake caliper and that the driver front was the last original one. That was replaced with front rotors also getting resurfaced. Car braked better but the handling still felt not up to par. Upset I take the car back the following week and ask to speak with the Service manager and explained all the symptoms with the car up to that point and we went on a test drive. He said his daughter has a 04 TSX just like mine and never replaced struts/shocks, cv axles etc... and it had 265,000 miles on it
As we get back to the dealership we could here this strange clunk going over a bump in the lot which I was trying to explain before and they kept the car overnight to run some tests. They also had 2 other 1st gen TSXs in the shop so I thought this would help draw comparisons. A little later I get a call from the Service manager and he said there master tech basically nit picked the entire car. He said it was the front stabilizer bar end links, lower shock bushings, left control arm bushing and driver and passenger side compliance bushings should be replaced but they were not torn through, only slightly cracked. They also found the driver side wheel bearing/hub will need attention soon. So I order the OEM parts and take them to one of our advance techs at Toyota and he put them in for me. Then the following week get another alignment( didn't have time over the weekend) and the car still has vague steering at times and is now pulling to one side when driving. The same tech swapped the 2 front tires and now instead of the right and sometimes pulls more to the left. There's also a noticeable creak in the steering wheel at times when cranking it to the left. I'm really lost on what to do with the car and just hate driving it now. Everyone including the Acura dealer thinks i'm hyper sensitive and I should just drive the car and that there is nothing to worry about. Is there anyone else with more experience on Acura double wishbone suspension that can provide some insight as to what the problem is?
![:O](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/embarrassment.gif)
#3
I was suspecting uneven tire wear but I'm still lost on the light steering. the TSX should feel like a go Kart essentially . Nice heavy steering and very agile when going around curves. Also I did replace the tires at around 127,000 miles with the Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06s I have now which at the time made the car handle amazingly.
#4
TSX's don't feel like Go-karts.
But...
Has anyone done a steering rack preload adjustment? Takes 2 mins with the special honda locknut wrench.
Is the creak happening while turning the wheel? It could be a common issue with rack seals. This can be mitigated by doing a PS fluid flush. But, to fix it requires a new rack. Or ignoring it. The former is expensive. The latter is free.
Which ball joints were replaced? Front? Rear? Upper? Lower?
Brake pulsation is a known issue with these cars. Its caused by worn LCA bushings and/or by using ceramic brake pads. Buy new rotors. They're like $20 on rockauto....resurfacing doesn't fix pulsation caused by pad deposits...and is usually like the same cost as new rotors. Use quality semi-metallic pads.
But...
Has anyone done a steering rack preload adjustment? Takes 2 mins with the special honda locknut wrench.
Is the creak happening while turning the wheel? It could be a common issue with rack seals. This can be mitigated by doing a PS fluid flush. But, to fix it requires a new rack. Or ignoring it. The former is expensive. The latter is free.
Which ball joints were replaced? Front? Rear? Upper? Lower?
Brake pulsation is a known issue with these cars. Its caused by worn LCA bushings and/or by using ceramic brake pads. Buy new rotors. They're like $20 on rockauto....resurfacing doesn't fix pulsation caused by pad deposits...and is usually like the same cost as new rotors. Use quality semi-metallic pads.
#5
TSX's don't feel like Go-karts.
But...
Has anyone done a steering rack preload adjustment? Takes 2 mins with the special honda locknut wrench.
Is the creak happening while turning the wheel? It could be a common issue with rack seals. This can be mitigated by doing a PS fluid flush. But, to fix it requires a new rack. Or ignoring it. The former is expensive. The latter is free.
Which ball joints were replaced? Front? Rear? Upper? Lower?
Brake pulsation is a known issue with these cars. Its caused by worn LCA bushings and/or by using ceramic brake pads. Buy new rotors. They're like $20 on rockauto....resurfacing doesn't fix pulsation caused by pad deposits...and is usually like the same cost as new rotors. Use quality semi-metallic pads.
But...
Has anyone done a steering rack preload adjustment? Takes 2 mins with the special honda locknut wrench.
Is the creak happening while turning the wheel? It could be a common issue with rack seals. This can be mitigated by doing a PS fluid flush. But, to fix it requires a new rack. Or ignoring it. The former is expensive. The latter is free.
Which ball joints were replaced? Front? Rear? Upper? Lower?
Brake pulsation is a known issue with these cars. Its caused by worn LCA bushings and/or by using ceramic brake pads. Buy new rotors. They're like $20 on rockauto....resurfacing doesn't fix pulsation caused by pad deposits...and is usually like the same cost as new rotors. Use quality semi-metallic pads.
#6
Power steering rack creaks from rubber seals are pretty commonplace. Check youtube....see if those cases line up with yours.
Flushing the PS fluid helps with the seal creaking. Just remember to use Honda PS fluid.
After flushing it, if it continues, ignore it until the rack starts leaking.
The car handles fairly tight when in good condition. But heavy or light steering is a subjective term. If the alignment (especially caster) is good, and tyres are ones that emphasize steering feel...that's as good as its going to get.
Flushing the PS fluid helps with the seal creaking. Just remember to use Honda PS fluid.
After flushing it, if it continues, ignore it until the rack starts leaking.
The car handles fairly tight when in good condition. But heavy or light steering is a subjective term. If the alignment (especially caster) is good, and tyres are ones that emphasize steering feel...that's as good as its going to get.
#7
Power steering rack creaks from rubber seals are pretty commonplace. Check youtube....see if those cases line up with yours.
Flushing the PS fluid helps with the seal creaking. Just remember to use Honda PS fluid.
After flushing it, if it continues, ignore it until the rack starts leaking.
The car handles fairly tight when in good condition. But heavy or light steering is a subjective term. If the alignment (especially caster) is good, and tyres are ones that emphasize steering feel...that's as good as its going to get.
Flushing the PS fluid helps with the seal creaking. Just remember to use Honda PS fluid.
After flushing it, if it continues, ignore it until the rack starts leaking.
The car handles fairly tight when in good condition. But heavy or light steering is a subjective term. If the alignment (especially caster) is good, and tyres are ones that emphasize steering feel...that's as good as its going to get.
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#8
Sorry if I'm asking you to repeat info here.
But...did your steering become vague after changing to new tyres?
If so...that is common. A brand new treaded tyre (apples to apples) will make steering more vague than a worn out one. Brand new tyres have more tread. The deeper the tread, the more the tyre will squirm (move around) before translating steering wheel motion into direction change for the car.
A worn out tyre will respond faster and grip harder in dry weather as long as the compound is still good. If roads were always dry...tyres wouldn't need tread.
Some tyres are built to minimize tread squirm. But almost every all season tyre will squirm pretty badly because of their small treadblocks and high tread depth.
The TSX came with Michelin HXMXM4's from the factory. Which were bad at virtually EVERYTHING...except steering response because their design minimized tread squirm-- for an all season tyre.
What brand and type of tyres are on the car now?
Unfortunately, I think a lot of parts that were put on your car were done in a blind attempt to cure the symptoms you were observing. Proper drivability diagnosis isn't something that most shops do.
But...at least now you've got a fresh start, eh?!
But...did your steering become vague after changing to new tyres?
If so...that is common. A brand new treaded tyre (apples to apples) will make steering more vague than a worn out one. Brand new tyres have more tread. The deeper the tread, the more the tyre will squirm (move around) before translating steering wheel motion into direction change for the car.
A worn out tyre will respond faster and grip harder in dry weather as long as the compound is still good. If roads were always dry...tyres wouldn't need tread.
Some tyres are built to minimize tread squirm. But almost every all season tyre will squirm pretty badly because of their small treadblocks and high tread depth.
The TSX came with Michelin HXMXM4's from the factory. Which were bad at virtually EVERYTHING...except steering response because their design minimized tread squirm-- for an all season tyre.
What brand and type of tyres are on the car now?
Unfortunately, I think a lot of parts that were put on your car were done in a blind attempt to cure the symptoms you were observing. Proper drivability diagnosis isn't something that most shops do.
But...at least now you've got a fresh start, eh?!
Last edited by BROlando; 06-12-2018 at 05:26 PM.
#9
Sorry if I'm asking you to repeat info here.
But...did your steering become vague after changing to new tyres?
If so...that is common. A brand new treaded tyre (apples to apples) will make steering more vague than a worn out one. Brand new tyres have more tread. The deeper the tread, the more the tyre will squirm (move around) before translating steering wheel motion into direction change for the car.
A worn out tyre will respond faster and grip harder in dry weather as long as the compound is still good. If roads were always dry...tyres wouldn't need tread.
Some tyres are built to minimize tread squirm. But almost every all season tyre will squirm pretty badly because of their small treadblocks and high tread depth.
The TSX came with Michelin HXMXM4's from the factory. Which were bad at virtually EVERYTHING...except steering response because their design minimized tread squirm-- for an all season tyre.
What brand and type of tyres are on the car now?
Unfortunately, I think a lot of parts that were put on your car were done in a blind attempt to cure the symptoms you were observing. Proper drivability diagnosis isn't something that most shops do.
But...at least now you've got a fresh start, eh?!
But...did your steering become vague after changing to new tyres?
If so...that is common. A brand new treaded tyre (apples to apples) will make steering more vague than a worn out one. Brand new tyres have more tread. The deeper the tread, the more the tyre will squirm (move around) before translating steering wheel motion into direction change for the car.
A worn out tyre will respond faster and grip harder in dry weather as long as the compound is still good. If roads were always dry...tyres wouldn't need tread.
Some tyres are built to minimize tread squirm. But almost every all season tyre will squirm pretty badly because of their small treadblocks and high tread depth.
The TSX came with Michelin HXMXM4's from the factory. Which were bad at virtually EVERYTHING...except steering response because their design minimized tread squirm-- for an all season tyre.
What brand and type of tyres are on the car now?
Unfortunately, I think a lot of parts that were put on your car were done in a blind attempt to cure the symptoms you were observing. Proper drivability diagnosis isn't something that most shops do.
But...at least now you've got a fresh start, eh?!
#10
I live in the Chicago burbs. A drive to Chicago won't ruin any car. TSX's are built like tanks anyway. You can't kill an Accord. I've driven mine to NYC, Toronto, and lots of other places with minefield roads.
And yeah, may not be a bad idea to test drive another good one. Note what type of tyres are on it, etc.
And yeah, may not be a bad idea to test drive another good one. Note what type of tyres are on it, etc.
#11
I live in the Chicago burbs. A drive to Chicago won't ruin any car. TSX's are built like tanks anyway. You can't kill an Accord. I've driven mine to NYC, Toronto, and lots of other places with minefield roads.
And yeah, may not be a bad idea to test drive another good one. Note what type of tyres are on it, etc.
And yeah, may not be a bad idea to test drive another good one. Note what type of tyres are on it, etc.
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#13
#15
If it helps, you're not alone.
It seems that, as these cars age, there is some vagueness that sets in.
Mine started kindof darting sideways over bumps at 160K miles. And through all the VARIOUS things I've tried; new coilovers, new LCA bushings, new UCA's, new rack bushings, lots of alignments, different tyres (winter wheels), rear spindle bushings, and lastly....spherical bearing compliance bushings (DON'T do this on a street driven TSX, btw).
The issue still persists. The things that made the biggest difference in improving it were a rack preload adjustment, and the sphericial bearings in the compliance location.
BUT...I shouldn't need sphericals to improve a drivability issue. And I hate them on this car (love them on my S2000). So I'm going back to normal LCA's with rubber bushings (ughhhhhh)....and will keep fighting to trace this dumbass issue.
Its probably something idiotic that I overlooked.
But I've heard other people say similar things about high mileage TSX's.
Thing is...there are a larger majority of 200, 300, 400, 500K mile TSX owners that report no such issue.
It seems that, as these cars age, there is some vagueness that sets in.
Mine started kindof darting sideways over bumps at 160K miles. And through all the VARIOUS things I've tried; new coilovers, new LCA bushings, new UCA's, new rack bushings, lots of alignments, different tyres (winter wheels), rear spindle bushings, and lastly....spherical bearing compliance bushings (DON'T do this on a street driven TSX, btw).
The issue still persists. The things that made the biggest difference in improving it were a rack preload adjustment, and the sphericial bearings in the compliance location.
BUT...I shouldn't need sphericals to improve a drivability issue. And I hate them on this car (love them on my S2000). So I'm going back to normal LCA's with rubber bushings (ughhhhhh)....and will keep fighting to trace this dumbass issue.
Its probably something idiotic that I overlooked.
But I've heard other people say similar things about high mileage TSX's.
Thing is...there are a larger majority of 200, 300, 400, 500K mile TSX owners that report no such issue.
#16
If it helps, you're not alone.
It seems that, as these cars age, there is some vagueness that sets in.
Mine started kindof darting sideways over bumps at 160K miles. And through all the VARIOUS things I've tried; new coilovers, new LCA bushings, new UCA's, new rack bushings, lots of alignments, different tyres (winter wheels), rear spindle bushings, and lastly....spherical bearing compliance bushings (DON'T do this on a street driven TSX, btw).
The issue still persists. The things that made the biggest difference in improving it were a rack preload adjustment, and the sphericial bearings in the compliance location.
BUT...I shouldn't need sphericals to improve a drivability issue. And I hate them on this car (love them on my S2000). So I'm going back to normal LCA's with rubber bushings (ughhhhhh)....and will keep fighting to trace this dumbass issue.
Its probably something idiotic that I overlooked.
But I've heard other people say similar things about high mileage TSX's.
Thing is...there are a larger majority of 200, 300, 400, 500K mile TSX owners that report no such issue.
It seems that, as these cars age, there is some vagueness that sets in.
Mine started kindof darting sideways over bumps at 160K miles. And through all the VARIOUS things I've tried; new coilovers, new LCA bushings, new UCA's, new rack bushings, lots of alignments, different tyres (winter wheels), rear spindle bushings, and lastly....spherical bearing compliance bushings (DON'T do this on a street driven TSX, btw).
The issue still persists. The things that made the biggest difference in improving it were a rack preload adjustment, and the sphericial bearings in the compliance location.
BUT...I shouldn't need sphericals to improve a drivability issue. And I hate them on this car (love them on my S2000). So I'm going back to normal LCA's with rubber bushings (ughhhhhh)....and will keep fighting to trace this dumbass issue.
Its probably something idiotic that I overlooked.
But I've heard other people say similar things about high mileage TSX's.
Thing is...there are a larger majority of 200, 300, 400, 500K mile TSX owners that report no such issue.
#18
That's what's really bugging me. How is it I gotta do all this stuff at 145,000 miles??? Most Acura owners say they love there cars and sometimes yea a bump or 2 is expected with a older car but this case seems uncommon. A local Jaguar dealership has 2016 ILX from California with 20,000 miles on it. As much as I would hate to let the TSX go do you think it might be time to trade in?
The ILX doesn't really do anything for me. Test drive it, though. Maybe you'll like it. Its a newer car with like...no miles, which is nice.
#19
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#20
No idea how much the TLX market is. The TLX seems behind its time in tech. It looks nice. But is massively boring compared to its contemporary rivals.
For me.....basically, if its not available in manual trans OR isn't a station wagon...I'm not really interested lol.
The 2018 Accord hits all the right notes for me. Idk what the price delta is between it and a 3yr used TLX. But...Accords are cheap. I don't see any worthy rivals in its price point. Literally everything else sucks in comparison. Maybe take a look at that?
For me.....basically, if its not available in manual trans OR isn't a station wagon...I'm not really interested lol.
The 2018 Accord hits all the right notes for me. Idk what the price delta is between it and a 3yr used TLX. But...Accords are cheap. I don't see any worthy rivals in its price point. Literally everything else sucks in comparison. Maybe take a look at that?
#21
ive test driven the ILX and TLX, the ILX feels like a nissan sentra to my 1st gen TSX. no power, bad handling, just doesnt feel "sporty". The new TLX's look great, and drive pretty great, but for the price of them the technology and interiors are VERY sub par; if i could buy an Accord with an Aspec exterior package I would go that route.
somewhat off topic but this is why i dont trust dealerships to repair my cars. no offense to the OP but you work at a dealership, and have had several higher up/head techs look at the car, and you still cant diagnose the problem. are you sure you even have a problem at this point? have you driven other same year model TSXs? I cant imagine anything in the suspension that would "squeak" but also make handling lighter.... loose/worn suspension should make handling stiffer or more difficult to control. most struts dont "leak fluid" when they go bad, its all interior issues; and unless your car was bouncing a bunch i wouldnt say they were the problem. complaining about loose steering and instantly replacing rear suspension parts doesnt make sense. TBH it doesnt sound like you have had anyone actually qualified look at your car; and if you have they are just taking you for a ride for easy money. and NO, a couple of trips to chicago wont ruin your suspension lol
somewhat off topic but this is why i dont trust dealerships to repair my cars. no offense to the OP but you work at a dealership, and have had several higher up/head techs look at the car, and you still cant diagnose the problem. are you sure you even have a problem at this point? have you driven other same year model TSXs? I cant imagine anything in the suspension that would "squeak" but also make handling lighter.... loose/worn suspension should make handling stiffer or more difficult to control. most struts dont "leak fluid" when they go bad, its all interior issues; and unless your car was bouncing a bunch i wouldnt say they were the problem. complaining about loose steering and instantly replacing rear suspension parts doesnt make sense. TBH it doesnt sound like you have had anyone actually qualified look at your car; and if you have they are just taking you for a ride for easy money. and NO, a couple of trips to chicago wont ruin your suspension lol
Last edited by rwhockey29; 06-19-2018 at 01:27 AM.
#22
ive test driven the ILX and TLX, the ILX feels like a nissan sentra to my 1st gen TSX. no power, bad handling, just doesnt feel "sporty". The new TLX's look great, and drive pretty great, but for the price of them the technology and interiors are VERY sub par; if i could buy an Accord with an Aspec exterior package I would go that route.
somewhat off topic but this is why i dont trust dealerships to repair my cars. no offense to the OP but you work at a dealership, and have had several higher up/head techs look at the car, and you still cant diagnose the problem. are you sure you even have a problem at this point? have you driven other same year model TSXs? I cant imagine anything in the suspension that would "squeak" but also make handling lighter.... loose/worn suspension should make handling stiffer or more difficult to control. most struts dont "leak fluid" when they go bad, its all interior issues; and unless your car was bouncing a bunch i wouldnt say they were the problem. complaining about loose steering and instantly replacing rear suspension parts doesnt make sense. TBH it doesnt sound like you have had anyone actually qualified look at your car; and if you have they are just taking you for a ride for easy money. and NO, a couple of trips to chicago wont ruin your suspension lol
somewhat off topic but this is why i dont trust dealerships to repair my cars. no offense to the OP but you work at a dealership, and have had several higher up/head techs look at the car, and you still cant diagnose the problem. are you sure you even have a problem at this point? have you driven other same year model TSXs? I cant imagine anything in the suspension that would "squeak" but also make handling lighter.... loose/worn suspension should make handling stiffer or more difficult to control. most struts dont "leak fluid" when they go bad, its all interior issues; and unless your car was bouncing a bunch i wouldnt say they were the problem. complaining about loose steering and instantly replacing rear suspension parts doesnt make sense. TBH it doesnt sound like you have had anyone actually qualified look at your car; and if you have they are just taking you for a ride for easy money. and NO, a couple of trips to chicago wont ruin your suspension lol
#24
on the topic of dealers this is one of the reasons I got upset with Zmbrick because it sounded like I was getting the run around at 1st, I can't fault Toyota that much cause they are not trained on Hondas/Acuras. However I am now having 2nd thoughts about the independent shop cause I took the car to the dealer in Milwaukee and still could not find anything wrong with the car other than that bad wheel bearing which I went ahead and replaced. I get the feeling the guy was trying to pull my leg cause he said he had a family member looking for a 1st gen TSX. Car almost has 146K now and driving a little better but idk. As far as trading up, the ILX felt ok but you are right it would be more of a point A to point B car and I also looked at one with the preimum package. The 2015 TLX drove a little better and is more of what i'm used to. In the test drive I couldn't really feel anything wrong with that tranny so I think that one is ok but that's one thing I am a little worried about and the only saving grace is I have the warrenty as a back up. Acura brookfield also lowered the prices a little too. Prices start at $19,500-$20,999 for the cars I was looking at with miles ranging from 14K-35K but for the ILX they have a APR special and I would be looking at 60 months at 2.49%. Would you say keep the TSX and maintain it or see into trading up to to a CPO ILX or TLX? Also reason im sticking with Acura is cause they have the best deals out of all the dealers I looked at in the Madison area and Milwaukee.
#25
I guess my biggest thing is how long can I go driving a car like this. The slop is disconcerting and I mean I could have it fixed next month. I feel like the battle I have with myself is at this point if I was to keep the TSX i'm more invested into it and would wanna keep it as long as I can. But the other thing is I drive a lot 20-30K a year and its already at 146,000. What is the car gonna need as the miles climb and it gets older? I do see Acuras come into the dealership all the time with 200K+ but when it does come time to trade out of it I know i'm not gonna get much for it. I'm heading up to the Milwaukee dealer one more time to do some test drives to see if I can live with a ILX more than likely. I think what's getting me are its civic roots and its not the great head turner the TSX was when that hit the states in 2003. Only saving grace are the better safety features and slightly better 0-60 times.
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