Engine Start Button Install
Engine Start Button Install
I can't believe that nobody has done this (until now). Although I have to admit it's kind of useless. None the less it's pretty cool and fills in the 2 empty switch locations in my 04 TSX.
First off, the TSX ignition switch is the same as an RSX, so the DC5 Type-R Start Button kit from ICB Motorsports is a direct fit. The only thing requiring actual modification is the start button switch bezel because the DC5 panel is flat, where as the TSX is curved. It's still not a perfect fit, but doesn't look too bad, as you can see in the pics.


If anyone else is interested in doing this, then let me know and I will post a complete "how to".
First off, the TSX ignition switch is the same as an RSX, so the DC5 Type-R Start Button kit from ICB Motorsports is a direct fit. The only thing requiring actual modification is the start button switch bezel because the DC5 panel is flat, where as the TSX is curved. It's still not a perfect fit, but doesn't look too bad, as you can see in the pics.


If anyone else is interested in doing this, then let me know and I will post a complete "how to".
Last edited by Euro-R_Spec_TSX; Apr 15, 2011 at 09:41 PM.
Price is $270, but comes with everything you need except a nut/bolt for the ground eyelet and a wire splice. Here is a link:
http://www.icbmotorsport.com/jdmindcacstb.html
I'll post the complete DIY shortly. Just have to edit some pics...
button n key both works? means u can start by either one?
i read some where here or that u have to have key inside to start with the "start button" but it doesnt start with key
BTW gr8 job *thumbs up*
i read some where here or that u have to have key inside to start with the "start button" but it doesnt start with key
BTW gr8 job *thumbs up*
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Complete DIY...
Here are some pics of the DC5R engine start button kit:
Relays, switch, tie wraps, etc:

Wire harness:

Relays installed:

Clutch lockout wire/connector:

OK, first you have to remove the following trim panels: left under dash, front lower under steering column, steering column top and bottom, and the switch panel.
Next, find the clutch lockout switch and disconnect it. This is only because it is easier to connect the wire splice to it with it unplugged.

Next, disconnect the ignition switch connector (large brown connector).

Next, plug in the ignition switch connector on the start button harness to the ignition switch and the original connector to the mating connector on the start button harness:

You'll want to tie wrap the new harness to the existing harness as tightly as possible so that it doesn't interfere with the steering column trim.
Next, find the available screw boss and use the supplied M6 bolt to fasten the relay cluster to the dash support beam. It's in the middle of the pic. Almost looks like it was made for this mod!!!

Next, connect the ground eyelet to the support beam using a nut and bolt (you have to supply). I used an M6 flange nut and bolt. There is a hole in a suitable location for this:

Next, connect the lt green wire on the start button harness to the lt green wire on the clutch lockout switch harness using a splice connector. Before doing this you have to drill out one side of the splice with an 1/8" drill to accommodate both wires going all the way through.

Now plug the original clutch lockout connector back into the clutch lockout switch. The connector on the start button harness will just hang free. You can tie wrap it to something if you want, but I just left mine hanging loose.
Next, feed the start button harness with the green connector through the panel opening.

Actually, you're not ready yet to connect the switch because you have to modify a couple of things. First the metal support behind the switch panel needs to be drilled and sawed to provide clearance for the start button. I first used an 1/8" drill to make a pilot hole which I then used for a Rota-Broach cutter. Sorry I didn't take a pic of this tool, but it works great for making precise holes in sheet metal. After making the 9/16" hole, I used a stubby hack saw blade/handle tool to open the hole. I didn't think to take a pic of this, but I drew lines on the pic showing the hole:

Next, you have to modify the switch panel by removing the center rib between the 2 end switch cavities.

Now that I think about it, you wouldn't have to modify the support beam if you moved the start button over by one cavity, thus having it between the sunroof button and the VSA button.
Next, you have to modify the start button bezel by sanding down both sides so that it fits down into the switch panel. It only sinks down a small amount in the center because of the curvature of the panel, but looks better than riding on the surface. You also have to trim off the small ribs on the back side.



OK, now you can install the switch panel. Be sure to tie wrap the harness underneath the dash so that it is secure. Re-install all the trim panels and your done!
Here are some pics of the DC5R engine start button kit:
Relays, switch, tie wraps, etc:

Wire harness:

Relays installed:

Clutch lockout wire/connector:

OK, first you have to remove the following trim panels: left under dash, front lower under steering column, steering column top and bottom, and the switch panel.
Next, find the clutch lockout switch and disconnect it. This is only because it is easier to connect the wire splice to it with it unplugged.

Next, disconnect the ignition switch connector (large brown connector).

Next, plug in the ignition switch connector on the start button harness to the ignition switch and the original connector to the mating connector on the start button harness:

You'll want to tie wrap the new harness to the existing harness as tightly as possible so that it doesn't interfere with the steering column trim.
Next, find the available screw boss and use the supplied M6 bolt to fasten the relay cluster to the dash support beam. It's in the middle of the pic. Almost looks like it was made for this mod!!!

Next, connect the ground eyelet to the support beam using a nut and bolt (you have to supply). I used an M6 flange nut and bolt. There is a hole in a suitable location for this:

Next, connect the lt green wire on the start button harness to the lt green wire on the clutch lockout switch harness using a splice connector. Before doing this you have to drill out one side of the splice with an 1/8" drill to accommodate both wires going all the way through.

Now plug the original clutch lockout connector back into the clutch lockout switch. The connector on the start button harness will just hang free. You can tie wrap it to something if you want, but I just left mine hanging loose.

Next, feed the start button harness with the green connector through the panel opening.

Actually, you're not ready yet to connect the switch because you have to modify a couple of things. First the metal support behind the switch panel needs to be drilled and sawed to provide clearance for the start button. I first used an 1/8" drill to make a pilot hole which I then used for a Rota-Broach cutter. Sorry I didn't take a pic of this tool, but it works great for making precise holes in sheet metal. After making the 9/16" hole, I used a stubby hack saw blade/handle tool to open the hole. I didn't think to take a pic of this, but I drew lines on the pic showing the hole:

Next, you have to modify the switch panel by removing the center rib between the 2 end switch cavities.

Now that I think about it, you wouldn't have to modify the support beam if you moved the start button over by one cavity, thus having it between the sunroof button and the VSA button.
Next, you have to modify the start button bezel by sanding down both sides so that it fits down into the switch panel. It only sinks down a small amount in the center because of the curvature of the panel, but looks better than riding on the surface. You also have to trim off the small ribs on the back side.



OK, now you can install the switch panel. Be sure to tie wrap the harness underneath the dash so that it is secure. Re-install all the trim panels and your done!
Last edited by Euro-R_Spec_TSX; Apr 16, 2011 at 03:54 PM.
I take it the key still has to be turned to the On position before you press the start button right?
If this was proximity capable with a new key fob, I would be all over it.
Nice DIY though, looks easy enough.
If this was proximity capable with a new key fob, I would be all over it.
Nice DIY though, looks easy enough.
Last edited by psteng19; Apr 21, 2011 at 07:25 AM.
I'll try to take a video when it stops raining... in a few days!
The actual start button may or may not be the same as an S2000.
The kit is 100% JDM. It is an accessory item available from the dealer in Japan for the DC5 (Integra) Type-R. See this link:
http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCESS/auto-a...ml?from=rcount
I updated the first pic because the previous one was taken before I modified the support beam. Also, I have a short vid, but it seems to be a special format (.mts). Not sure what to do and I don't have a youtube account either. Maybe someone else wants to upload the video?
Youtube does not seem to support the .mts file format, so it will have to be converted first.
Youtube does not seem to support the .mts file format, so it will have to be converted first.
Last edited by Euro-R_Spec_TSX; Apr 27, 2011 at 11:46 PM.
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