Changing 6MT Transmission Fluid
#45
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My car seems to have developed a problem during colder weather where it's hard to shift out of 1st gear. So basically I shift into first, accelerate gently, and try to shift out, only to encounter a lot or resistance shifting out (almost as if the clutch wasn't disengaging). I don't have this problem in any other gear, and the problem goes away after the tranny has warmed up.
Getting into first gear from standstill is not really an issue, although it doesn't go in without a bit of effort. I do have a Comptech short shifter, but I don't remember shifting being this hard when I first installed it. The car is over 3 years old but only has 27,000km, mostly highway.
I changed the fluid last weekend, using the new formulation Honda fluid, and that helped a bit with shift feel. However, when I took the car out last night, with the temperature around 6 degrees C, I still got the 1st gear sticking problem.
One thing that I've always been confused about is that when the car was new, the clutch engagement point was very close to the end of the clutch pedal travel. I figured this was just a characteristic of a fresh clutch, but seeing as I've never noticed the same behavior with other cars I've driven (even ones "fresh off the truck), I thought I'd put it out here to see if anyone has any comments on it.
Getting into first gear from standstill is not really an issue, although it doesn't go in without a bit of effort. I do have a Comptech short shifter, but I don't remember shifting being this hard when I first installed it. The car is over 3 years old but only has 27,000km, mostly highway.
I changed the fluid last weekend, using the new formulation Honda fluid, and that helped a bit with shift feel. However, when I took the car out last night, with the temperature around 6 degrees C, I still got the 1st gear sticking problem.
One thing that I've always been confused about is that when the car was new, the clutch engagement point was very close to the end of the clutch pedal travel. I figured this was just a characteristic of a fresh clutch, but seeing as I've never noticed the same behavior with other cars I've driven (even ones "fresh off the truck), I thought I'd put it out here to see if anyone has any comments on it.
#46
Originally Posted by dowzer
My car seems to have developed a problem during colder weather where it's hard to shift out of 1st gear. So basically I shift into first, accelerate gently, and try to shift out, only to encounter a lot or resistance shifting out (almost as if the clutch wasn't disengaging). I don't have this problem in any other gear, and the problem goes away after the tranny has warmed up.
Getting into first gear from standstill is not really an issue, although it doesn't go in without a bit of effort. I do have a Comptech short shifter, but I don't remember shifting being this hard when I first installed it. The car is over 3 years old but only has 27,000km, mostly highway.
I changed the fluid last weekend, using the new formulation Honda fluid, and that helped a bit with shift feel. However, when I took the car out last night, with the temperature around 6 degrees C, I still got the 1st gear sticking problem.
One thing that I've always been confused about is that when the car was new, the clutch engagement point was very close to the end of the clutch pedal travel. I figured this was just a characteristic of a fresh clutch, but seeing as I've never noticed the same behavior with other cars I've driven (even ones "fresh off the truck), I thought I'd put it out here to see if anyone has any comments on it.
Getting into first gear from standstill is not really an issue, although it doesn't go in without a bit of effort. I do have a Comptech short shifter, but I don't remember shifting being this hard when I first installed it. The car is over 3 years old but only has 27,000km, mostly highway.
I changed the fluid last weekend, using the new formulation Honda fluid, and that helped a bit with shift feel. However, when I took the car out last night, with the temperature around 6 degrees C, I still got the 1st gear sticking problem.
One thing that I've always been confused about is that when the car was new, the clutch engagement point was very close to the end of the clutch pedal travel. I figured this was just a characteristic of a fresh clutch, but seeing as I've never noticed the same behavior with other cars I've driven (even ones "fresh off the truck), I thought I'd put it out here to see if anyone has any comments on it.
#47
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Originally Posted by Simba91102
The January 07 Acura Service News addressed a similar problem (difficulty shifting) and recommended doing what you apparently did (replace the trans. fluid w/ the latest Honda MTF). They suggested driving 10 miles of roads with allot of shifting to test for improvement. If the problem still persists, they seem to indicate it was time to look elsewhere for a solution.
#48
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by dowzer
My car seems to have developed a problem during colder weather where it's hard to shift out of 1st gear. So basically I shift into first, accelerate gently, and try to shift out, only to encounter a lot or resistance shifting out (almost as if the clutch wasn't disengaging). I don't have this problem in any other gear, and the problem goes away after the tranny has warmed up.
Getting into first gear from standstill is not really an issue, although it doesn't go in without a bit of effort. I do have a Comptech short shifter, but I don't remember shifting being this hard when I first installed it. The car is over 3 years old but only has 27,000km, mostly highway.
I changed the fluid last weekend, using the new formulation Honda fluid, and that helped a bit with shift feel. However, when I took the car out last night, with the temperature around 6 degrees C, I still got the 1st gear sticking problem.
One thing that I've always been confused about is that when the car was new, the clutch engagement point was very close to the end of the clutch pedal travel. I figured this was just a characteristic of a fresh clutch, but seeing as I've never noticed the same behavior with other cars I've driven (even ones "fresh off the truck), I thought I'd put it out here to see if anyone has any comments on it.
Getting into first gear from standstill is not really an issue, although it doesn't go in without a bit of effort. I do have a Comptech short shifter, but I don't remember shifting being this hard when I first installed it. The car is over 3 years old but only has 27,000km, mostly highway.
I changed the fluid last weekend, using the new formulation Honda fluid, and that helped a bit with shift feel. However, when I took the car out last night, with the temperature around 6 degrees C, I still got the 1st gear sticking problem.
One thing that I've always been confused about is that when the car was new, the clutch engagement point was very close to the end of the clutch pedal travel. I figured this was just a characteristic of a fresh clutch, but seeing as I've never noticed the same behavior with other cars I've driven (even ones "fresh off the truck), I thought I'd put it out here to see if anyone has any comments on it.
#49
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Originally Posted by aaronng
Have you tried pulling it out of 1st at the same time as when you begin pressing the clutch pedal down?
#53
I just replaced the MTF on my 2005 TSX (I have 48K miles). I would HIGHLY recommend that anyone who has a manual transmission TSX older than a 2007 (maybe even early 2007s) replace it with the "newly formulated" Honda MTF (P/N 08798-9031A). I find shifting to be much smoother overall and especially going into 6th when the engine/transmission is cold. It used to be difficult going into 6th and even sometimes had a slight grind, but that is completely gone with the new MTF.
I used a fluid pump that screws on to a quart bottle, purchased from Kragen for $5.99. This made the job very easy. Only thing to be careful of is to make sure the car is level. Initially, I was off level by a few degrees and ended up putting in 2.3 quarts or so, and then I jacked it up a bit more to level it (used a bubble level on the bottom of the door frame) and then fluid started dripping out of the fill hole. I let it stop dripping before putting the fill plug back on. Probably ended up with around 2.2qt. (Service manual says 2.1qt for drain/refill).
The drain plug can be removed by a 3/8" drive extension (with no socket) on a ratchet and if my memory is right, the fill plug is 17mm. Always make sure the fill plug is removed FIRST just in case it doesn't come off - won't be pleasant if it happens after you drain the transmission!!
I used a fluid pump that screws on to a quart bottle, purchased from Kragen for $5.99. This made the job very easy. Only thing to be careful of is to make sure the car is level. Initially, I was off level by a few degrees and ended up putting in 2.3 quarts or so, and then I jacked it up a bit more to level it (used a bubble level on the bottom of the door frame) and then fluid started dripping out of the fill hole. I let it stop dripping before putting the fill plug back on. Probably ended up with around 2.2qt. (Service manual says 2.1qt for drain/refill).
The drain plug can be removed by a 3/8" drive extension (with no socket) on a ratchet and if my memory is right, the fill plug is 17mm. Always make sure the fill plug is removed FIRST just in case it doesn't come off - won't be pleasant if it happens after you drain the transmission!!
#55
still plays with cars
Originally Posted by nj2pa2nc
Still have the original MTF in my 18 month old (bought new) 06 6MT tsx with 51,000 miles. Have no problems shifting-still smooth.
#56
Originally Posted by nbtx
Yikes ! It's supposed to be changed at 30k miles.
For severe conditions, MTF should be replaced at 3 years or 60K miles, whichever comes first.
For normal conditions, MTF should be replaced at 6 years or 120K miles, whichever comes first.
#57
still plays with cars
Originally Posted by myblacktsx
This is not the case according to the Owner's manual or Acura Service manual for 2005. I don't know if they changed it later.
For severe conditions, MTF should be replaced at 3 years or 60K miles, whichever comes first.
For normal conditions, MTF should be replaced at 6 years or 120K miles, whichever comes first.
For severe conditions, MTF should be replaced at 3 years or 60K miles, whichever comes first.
For normal conditions, MTF should be replaced at 6 years or 120K miles, whichever comes first.
#58
it's a car-drive it
Originally Posted by nbtx
Surprise ! It's fun yanking chains ... The 06 has a MID which indicates a tranny fluid change when you see A3 or B3 with the 3 calling for the fluid change. Has anyone with a 06 or newer seen this indication yet? The manual gives no indication as to the time or mileage this is likely to occur in typically inscrutable oriental fashion. There's also a note on page 274 right-hand column which, if read carefully, would lead one to believe the "3" service applies only to the automatic tranny. Looking further on page 287 you see the procedure for changing the manual tranny fluid, so maybe the "3" applies to both manual and automatic. So I'm just going to change fluid on my MT at 30,000 miles because I want to. FWIW, I had a 94 Saturn with a 5-spd and the service interval for the first change was 12,000 miles, and then go forever. When I pulled the drain plug (magnetic) there were steel chips it picked up, and there were some bronze flecks in the drain pan from the synchronizers. So without a filter in an MT, I think it's just good practice to get the original fill out early. Also, my MT's reverse gear is a lot quieter after 24,000 miles than when new, so I know there is junk floating around inside. Hope this one has a magnetic plug.
My good friend is a acura service manager so I follow his advise on my car's maintenance.
We have owned numerous vehicles with Manual transmission-never had any problems with them-most of them went way over 100,000 miles.
#60
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by mball
Has anyone tried Royal Purple Synchromesh MTF? I used it in my BMW and it smoothed shifting quite a bit.
#61
Originally Posted by aaronng
What is the viscosity of the Royal purple MTF? If it is 75w80 or 75w90, then it should be alright for the TSX's gearbox. I personally prefer 75w80.
#62
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by myblacktsx
Honda MTF is much less viscous than 80 or 90. They do not use standard gear oil. In the manual, it says you can temporarily use 10w30 or 10w40 engine oil, but not gear oil. So, I would not put gear oil instead of Honda MTF.
Honda MTF is 75w80.
#63
Originally Posted by aaronng
Do not confuse engine oil viscosity ratings with gear oil viscosity ratings. They are both tested differently and thus the numbers are not comparable. 75w80 in gear oil is very very similar in viscosity to 10w-30 in engine oil.
Honda MTF is 75w80.
Honda MTF is 75w80.
That is good information. Thanks for clarifying this. I learned something new!
#64
sorry to being a noob, but if somone can show the actual procedure with pics to change and fill the manual tranny fluid will be much appreciate. i still scare to change it without the actual pics. thx
#65
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some pics...
3 bottles of tranny fluid. (and one bottle of break fluid for when i change my pads & rotors next weekend)
part number is under the bar left code
take off the front driver's side wheel and you can see the transmission. the big silver bolt is the fill bolt.
it started to rain so i had to come inside and wait for it to pass then i'll get a pic of the drain side.
3 bottles of tranny fluid. (and one bottle of break fluid for when i change my pads & rotors next weekend)
part number is under the bar left code
take off the front driver's side wheel and you can see the transmission. the big silver bolt is the fill bolt.
it started to rain so i had to come inside and wait for it to pass then i'll get a pic of the drain side.
#66
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ok, now i have a question. do i absolutely have to replace the washers? i didnt realize they were supposed to be replaced so i didnt pick any up formt he dealership when i was there the other day. i'd really like to change my fluid but i dont want to blow up my transmission over $6 worth of washers....
#67
Originally Posted by Worth
some pics...
3 bottles of tranny fluid. (and one bottle of break fluid for when i change my pads & rotors next weekend)
part number is under the bar left code
take off the front driver's side wheel and you can see the transmission. the big silver bolt is the fill bolt.
it started to rain so i had to come inside and wait for it to pass then i'll get a pic of the drain side.
3 bottles of tranny fluid. (and one bottle of break fluid for when i change my pads & rotors next weekend)
part number is under the bar left code
take off the front driver's side wheel and you can see the transmission. the big silver bolt is the fill bolt.
it started to rain so i had to come inside and wait for it to pass then i'll get a pic of the drain side.
thank you for the pics and i should find the silver bolt for the drain? is that suppose in the lower location compare to the fill bot?
#69
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by sirsmokalot1271
Hi there, just wondering if it's safe to switch to royal purple synthetic mtf, after 80k mi,
thanks for any input
thanks for any input
#73
ok, now i have a question. do i absolutely have to replace the washers? i didnt realize they were supposed to be replaced so i didnt pick any up formt he dealership when i was there the other day. i'd really like to change my fluid but i dont want to blow up my transmission over $6 worth of washers....
A head's up for those who do not have access to lifts as this can get a bit messy. I had my car up on ramps to drain out the old fluid which worked out fine. The problem was filling the trans case back up since the car was no longer level. Using a pump, I was able to get about 1.8 qts back into the trans case (2.1 qts required per the manual) when it started spilling out all over the frame, underbody panel and garage floor. Earlier, I had spilled more fluid because the fill tube was not inserted all the way into the trans case. I put back the fill bolt and moved the car off the ramps, jacked it up with the OEM jack and removed the wheel to get the remaining fluid into the trans case.
All in all it seems to have worked out okay albeit messy and worth the money saved from taking it to the stealership or mechanic. Shifts are definitely smoother.
#74
Also, the drain bolt is on the underside of the trans case (not shown in pic) and uses just the ratchet head (no socket needed). 3/8 for the drain bolt, 17mm for the fill.
#78
Driver/Detailer
With the car on jackstands, I use a tube with a funnel on the end. Tube end goes into hole, and funnel is above the level of the car's bonnet, so gravity feeds it in.
#79
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