So, as some of you may know, I swapped out the crummy OEM battery with a Optima YellowTop 51 right after I had my S/C installed (essentially, about 10-11 months ago).

Well, I'm happy to report that the battery is dead and can no longer hold a charge. Optima was aware of this charge holding issue with their primary design for the YT51, and as a result they took it off the shelves. There was a rumor that they had went back and redesigned the battery structure. The 2nd run of these batteries apparently came out last summer, so I thought everything had been fixed. My battery had a manufacturing date of 7/07, so I figured I was good...but I was wrong .

I went back to Advance Auto Parts for a replacement/refund. They told me that have to run a few tests (including a full cycle charge) that'll take about 2 hours before they'll do anything for me. I want my damn money back...

So, just a word of warning to all you TSXers looking to upgrade your battery...avoid the Optima YT51/51R battery at all costs .

 

wow, that sucks.

would be interested to see if other fellow TSX'ers have the same issue. i was actually planning to get this battery once my OEM one died.

 

i've been running this one for a while now with no issues ( knock on wood) not an exact fit though so it required some tweaking to fit.

http://www.exide.com/products/automo...bital_XCD.html

 

Consumer Reports gave Optima Red Top (same price range) for group 34/78 a #2 rating. Diehard Platinum came in higher. Autocraft Titanium (the other one Advance offers for the TSX in my area) came in #2 (Group 65) and #6 (Group 34/78) and for almost half the price. Looks like it comes with a 3 year replacement warranty.

They didn't even test a Yellow Top. Orbital Exide Select did okay (#8 in Group 34/78).

 

Hate to hear that and good luck with your refund. Sounds like you're still within the skimpy year warranty. I also bit for the YT from Advance couple months ago when they announced the rebate incentive-found a fresh production date of 5/08. Never understood the dichotomy between the Optima blurbs 'gonna last twice as long-eight, ten years-as a conventional battery' and then they give you one third the warranty at double the price. The rest of us suckers hope your's is just an isolated lemon and not a harbinger of things to come. Please follow up with the Advance verdict....

 

I'm using an Auto-zone Duralast Gold R51 battery, fits like a glove OEM even the litte plastic stock cover...was less then $80 and has a 3 year warranty or something like that.

Cheap is good, I had a standard A-zone Duralast Red in my prior Accord, again worked better then OEM. I'd have that in my TSX now if they had one on the shelf the day my OEM died.

I don't buy into the hype of the special batteries for standard daily use cars with regular stereos. You don't look at your battery under the hood, the point is to start the car after that it's almost useless in a day...ok ok not totally but darn near close.

 

That's why I only recommend RedTop 35

 

never had an issue with my redtop.

 

Hmm, I think I'm gonna go for the Auto Zone Duralasts.


OP, thanks for posting this info as I am due to swap out my OEM Battery.

 

If you go with the standard duralast non-Gold, I think it's like a $40ish battery, good heavens if it only last 2 years it's still a bargain. Mine was going strong at 2 when I sold the car.

 

The battery is more than just starting the car. If your alternator fails after the car is started, the battery is what keeps your car running (power to the relay, ecu, fuel pump, ignition coils, sensors. etc). If the batter is of low capacity, it may not last long enough to get you home or to a shop, especially at night when you have to switch on headlights or other accessories.

 

Quick update...

Brought my YT51 to Advance Auto Parts, and they confirmed the battery was completely done. In addition, the guy started laughing when he saw me bring in the YT51 because he said every single one he's seen sold has come back.

They let me swap out the YT51 to a RT75/35. It was kind of a PITA to fit into the engine bay, but it's in and it actually looks pretty good. Here's to hoping this one doesn't crap out on me as well ...

 

That is a rare exception (and I did say almost). Note sure it's worth almost $200 for a battery for this reason either. I don't think the TSX has a volt meter so not sure if an ALT failure would throw a light to warn you.

You're likely better to put the extra cash toward a TLC plan or AAA, and a better cell phone plan.

 

Hard to believe 100% of YT's sold in a store came back. I believe many guys on here purchased it, surprised no one else has mentioned a bad one...time will tell....

 

Dayta, I think that it's important that you advise Advance Auto that you were running the Flux Capacitor 2000 and also Redline high performance blinker fluid b/c this can cause a further draw on the battery.

 

I have a YT 51 and have no problems here so far. Hope this thing doesn't crap out, I will be extremely pissed if it does since it wasn't cheap.

 

I have this bat too and its a couple months short on a year now I believe and it seems to be doing a good job. We'll have to wait for the winter to see what happens. I hope it lasts cause if it doesn't I'll be pissed i spent 175 on a battery when I could have gotten a different kind for less than $100.

 

Although I think the new magnetic drives on the 2001 model reduced consumption by almost 60%.

 

I knew he should have upgraded to the new model.

 

Wow, everyone's got jokes today...



You know it's your fault, Doc Josh. You should've warned me about the flux capacitor (i.e. VTEC) draining the battery:

 

No, VTEC doesn't cause flames like that, V-ATTACK does.

 

Good deal ... #2 in CR's tests. I always try to buy what Consumer Reports has tested and recommends (or at least, doesn't recommend against), I've had a lot less return experiences shopping that way.

 

That picture illustrates what happens when you let Einstein drive your DeLorean!

 

Oh that's just great, I just switched out my YT D34/78 for the YT D51 today. Hope there's no problem with mine

 

wow, I'm not the only one! My YT for my Integra just died a couple months ago. Had it for approximately 2 years I think. I noticed the car having some difficulty starting, and then it was almost impossible to even jump it. Had to jump it every time after that until it got to the point it just wouldn't do anything anymore. I think the highest voltage I could get was 10V when the car was off, and jumper pack attached.

Got a redtop now from costco. =T

 

Just noticed, folks. Optima is offering $25.00 mail-in rebates for batteries bought from 7/1 through 9/15. It looks like it covers all batteries, bought anywhere (even Costco). (Costco sells Optimas?)

Please, no applause. All in a day's work.

 

Redtop from Costco here too with no problems. They carry some yellow tops but not in the 51 size.

 

I have RT75/35 since last Oct, GREAT battery and never die in winter (-30c) YET so it shouldn't be a problem for you. I can even pump music to wash my car loud w/ winter close for like 30-40mins and the car just easily start no problem.

Fitment is tight, stock battery tie can barely fit, look for (wider) aftermarket tie.

 

UPDATE: Mine just failed today.

 

wow, I was at costco last week and I found out they carry the yellow top 51rs, I was thinkin about purchasing it soon but getting second thoughts after the op's post

 

Yellow Top Optima batteries are meant for marine application with deep discharge/recharge cycles. Automobile batteries (Red Top Optima) are meant for short high current bursts (as in starting an engine) and designed to be constantly topped up. I was surprised to see that YT was recommended for our TSX because it's not meant for regular car duty other than perhaps for driving your aftermarket stereos with the engine turned off. I'll bet they have this under their fitment chart simply because of its physical size rather than intended use. I'll bet that reason that they are failing is also because of they are being constantly topped up rather than being allowed to deep cycle.

 

Agreed with the top off... just like laptop batteries, the YT are built for full discharge/recharge cycles

 

I went to Auto-Zone 2day and checked out the YT, the sale reps. told me it's better for my car cause I'm running 2 amps. Any body here using YT or RT with after market system?

 

i havz it for about a year and a half and it runs strong with UR pulleys and stereo/AC/headlights most of the time while driving

 

The original acura battery in my 2002 CL type S lasted me 8 years. I just got a battery from my cousin 980cca should last another 8 years. battery in ,y 1998 honda accord didn't even make it 4 years before it was repalced with an interstate battery. the battery in my 1994 accord lasted 10 years before I replaced it. the battery in my 1992 mercury sable was 8+ years old when the car was totalled. . the battery in my 1989 sable died in 1998 when the car was 9 years old.

 

I've had my battery for a little longer than 2 years and it runs like a champ

 

Yellow Tops are Garbage. My friend's Yellow Top battery leaked while driving. Could have caused engine bay damage if it wasn't caught in time.

 

Spoke too soon, my battery just died. Freaking Optima and their crappy batteries. I tried to jump start and it worked for all but 2 minutes and then died. Very disappointed to the say the least.

 

Save yourself the hassle... Autozone Duralast Gold. I replaced the original with the Duralast gold and the engine starts like a charm... that's all you need.

 

Duralast Gold 51R - 500CCA/625CA > Optima YT 51R - 450CCA/575CA < Optima RT 35 - 720CCA/910CA