Automatic Transmission Change
03-18-2006, 03:17 PM
#1
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Automatic Transmission Change
Hey guys,
I was wondering if anyone here has changed the transmission fluid on your Auto TSX. I'm alittle confused. Does anybody know where the drainage bolt is? Also how do you refill it? Through the dipstick?
I went to honda to buy 12 bottles of the ATF-Z1 so I can do the process 3 times as suggested in the manual. I asked the guy do I need any washers and he gave me 2. The drainage bolt washer and the filler washer. I thought that for auto's your suppose to just fill it through the dip stick? Thanks again!
I was wondering if anyone here has changed the transmission fluid on your Auto TSX. I'm alittle confused. Does anybody know where the drainage bolt is? Also how do you refill it? Through the dipstick?
I went to honda to buy 12 bottles of the ATF-Z1 so I can do the process 3 times as suggested in the manual. I asked the guy do I need any washers and he gave me 2. The drainage bolt washer and the filler washer. I thought that for auto's your suppose to just fill it through the dip stick? Thanks again!
03-18-2006, 09:14 PM
#3
Drifting
How many miles are on the tsx? The tsx doesn't need one for a while.
Also, changing transmission fluid is not like oil where you drain and fill it. (at least for the auto).
Draining and refilling in this case with an auto will only get everything out of the drip pan. Most of the fluid is in the torque converter.
If you want to do a 100% fluid change you will need to do a full transmission flush. That requires a special machine to do if you want to get it 100% and do it the right way without risking anything. I'd just get it done at the dealer if you want to be safe.
You can read about the different methods here:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm
Also, changing transmission fluid is not like oil where you drain and fill it. (at least for the auto).
Draining and refilling in this case with an auto will only get everything out of the drip pan. Most of the fluid is in the torque converter.
If you want to do a 100% fluid change you will need to do a full transmission flush. That requires a special machine to do if you want to get it 100% and do it the right way without risking anything. I'd just get it done at the dealer if you want to be safe.
You can read about the different methods here:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm
03-18-2006, 09:23 PM
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I currently have 60K miles on the car and thats when the manual says to change it.
THe manual suggest refilling it 3 times. Draining it three times will help get the old transmission fluid out of the torque converter. So you drain it ... fill it with new fluid .... drive it ... drain it ... fill it with new fluid again .. etc... You basically do it 3 times to get most of the old tranny fluid out.
I just finished replacing the tranny fluid and it was definitely needed. The fluid was black and the cool thing that I have never seen before was that the drainage bolt had a magnet on it catch all the shavings. Most of the other cars I had required you to take the pan off and clean off the magnet so I think its pretty cool that its built onto the bolt.
I couldn't find the filler, so I just used poured the new tranny fluid into the dip stick just incase anyone else is going to change it soon. Did any ever find the filler bolt?
Thanxs.
THe manual suggest refilling it 3 times. Draining it three times will help get the old transmission fluid out of the torque converter. So you drain it ... fill it with new fluid .... drive it ... drain it ... fill it with new fluid again .. etc... You basically do it 3 times to get most of the old tranny fluid out.
I just finished replacing the tranny fluid and it was definitely needed. The fluid was black and the cool thing that I have never seen before was that the drainage bolt had a magnet on it catch all the shavings. Most of the other cars I had required you to take the pan off and clean off the magnet so I think its pretty cool that its built onto the bolt.
I couldn't find the filler, so I just used poured the new tranny fluid into the dip stick just incase anyone else is going to change it soon. Did any ever find the filler bolt?
Thanxs.
03-19-2006, 01:41 AM
#6
Drives With Hands
Originally Posted by Greg-ster
American Honda does not support "flushing" of any kind... it is in the febuary '06 Service News.
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03-19-2006, 06:47 AM
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Greg-ster is right. Honda does not support flushing. I believe when you take it to the dealer they'll do that same thing I'm doing, but they'll also add some kind of cleaner additive during the draining and filling 3 times. The parts guy I was talking to says that it doesn't take them that long because all they do is put the car on a lift. Do the drain and fill, then just run the car straight from the lift. So on and so forth 3 times.
Greg-ster, do you know if they have a filler bolt?
Greg-ster, do you know if they have a filler bolt?
03-19-2006, 12:49 PM
#9
Moderator
I'd change the ATF every 30,000 miles at the minimum if you plan on keeping the car.
Here's the easier, inexpensive way of doing a complete fluid change, with no damage done to the transmission:
1) Drive TSX for at least 15 mi at highway speeds to warm-up transmission fluid.
2) Shut off car, jack up all 4 tires.
3) Remove ATF dipstick
4) Remove filler bolt
5) Remove drain plug. Allow fluid to drain.
6) Reinstall drain plug, replace washer if needed.
7) Look for the lines that connect to the radiator heat exchanger. Remove BOTH lines, allow heat exchanger to drain, and put lines into a bucket. (use additional hose if lines aren't long enough)
8) Pour 3 qts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall bolt hand tight.
9) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
10) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
11) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
12) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
13) Reconnect both hoses, and warm-up the transmission, then check fluid level.
14) Finally, tighten the fill bolt once top-off is complete.
This method is MUCH more efficient than doing a 3x drain/refill, and removes >90% of the old fluid. Honda does not support power flush machines as sometimes, they "backflush" the transmission and dislodge particles, which have no way of exiting the transmission, as Hondas do not have a serviceable transmission filter. The method I described is similar to a fluid exchange, and will not put any abnormal stress of the transmission.
Here's the easier, inexpensive way of doing a complete fluid change, with no damage done to the transmission:
1) Drive TSX for at least 15 mi at highway speeds to warm-up transmission fluid.
2) Shut off car, jack up all 4 tires.
3) Remove ATF dipstick
4) Remove filler bolt
5) Remove drain plug. Allow fluid to drain.
6) Reinstall drain plug, replace washer if needed.
7) Look for the lines that connect to the radiator heat exchanger. Remove BOTH lines, allow heat exchanger to drain, and put lines into a bucket. (use additional hose if lines aren't long enough)
8) Pour 3 qts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall bolt hand tight.
9) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
10) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
11) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
12) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
13) Reconnect both hoses, and warm-up the transmission, then check fluid level.
14) Finally, tighten the fill bolt once top-off is complete.
This method is MUCH more efficient than doing a 3x drain/refill, and removes >90% of the old fluid. Honda does not support power flush machines as sometimes, they "backflush" the transmission and dislodge particles, which have no way of exiting the transmission, as Hondas do not have a serviceable transmission filter. The method I described is similar to a fluid exchange, and will not put any abnormal stress of the transmission.
03-19-2006, 06:44 PM
#10
Drifting
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
I'd change the ATF every 30,000 miles at the minimum if you plan on keeping the car.
Here's the easier, inexpensive way of doing a complete fluid change, with no damage done to the transmission:
1) Drive TSX for at least 15 mi at highway speeds to warm-up transmission fluid.
2) Shut off car, jack up all 4 tires.
3) Remove ATF dipstick
4) Remove filler bolt
5) Remove drain plug. Allow fluid to drain.
6) Reinstall drain plug, replace washer if needed.
7) Look for the lines that connect to the radiator heat exchanger. Remove BOTH lines, allow heat exchanger to drain, and put lines into a bucket. (use additional hose if lines aren't long enough)
8) Pour 3 qts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall bolt hand tight.
9) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
10) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
11) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
12) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
13) Reconnect both hoses, and warm-up the transmission, then check fluid level.
14) Finally, tighten the fill bolt once top-off is complete.
This method is MUCH more efficient than doing a 3x drain/refill, and removes >90% of the old fluid. Honda does not support power flush machines as sometimes, they "backflush" the transmission and dislodge particles, which have no way of exiting the transmission, as Hondas do not have a serviceable transmission filter. The method I described is similar to a fluid exchange, and will not put any abnormal stress of the transmission.
Here's the easier, inexpensive way of doing a complete fluid change, with no damage done to the transmission:
1) Drive TSX for at least 15 mi at highway speeds to warm-up transmission fluid.
2) Shut off car, jack up all 4 tires.
3) Remove ATF dipstick
4) Remove filler bolt
5) Remove drain plug. Allow fluid to drain.
6) Reinstall drain plug, replace washer if needed.
7) Look for the lines that connect to the radiator heat exchanger. Remove BOTH lines, allow heat exchanger to drain, and put lines into a bucket. (use additional hose if lines aren't long enough)
8) Pour 3 qts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall bolt hand tight.
9) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
10) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
11) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
12) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
13) Reconnect both hoses, and warm-up the transmission, then check fluid level.
14) Finally, tighten the fill bolt once top-off is complete.
This method is MUCH more efficient than doing a 3x drain/refill, and removes >90% of the old fluid. Honda does not support power flush machines as sometimes, they "backflush" the transmission and dislodge particles, which have no way of exiting the transmission, as Hondas do not have a serviceable transmission filter. The method I described is similar to a fluid exchange, and will not put any abnormal stress of the transmission.
03-19-2006, 07:01 PM
#11
Moderator
Honda ATs do not have a easily accessible pan...so that isn't an option. The pump inlet method still lets old ATF back into the system. Think about it. Regardless of how you do it, the new ATF is going to come in contact with the old ATF at some point, as it is pushed through the system.
To minimize the contact with old ATF, I suggest (as noted above) removed the drain plug from the transmission, refilling with new fluid, then purging the additional fluid from the system in 3 qt increments. That way only new fluid is being pumped into the system, unlike the cooler line flush method, which causes more of the new fluid to be mixed with the old fluid, as the system isn’t partially drained and refilled before the service.
To minimize the contact with old ATF, I suggest (as noted above) removed the drain plug from the transmission, refilling with new fluid, then purging the additional fluid from the system in 3 qt increments. That way only new fluid is being pumped into the system, unlike the cooler line flush method, which causes more of the new fluid to be mixed with the old fluid, as the system isn’t partially drained and refilled before the service.
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