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I have a 2005 Acura Tsx with about 138k miles I got the car from a Facebook marketplace seller
with a blinking d light and he claims and showed a receipt for a new transmission that was apparently installed on the car after a trouble code for a shift solenoid b control circuit low was thrown.
but apparently shortly after the car was acting the same with a blinking d light and going into limp mode.
I now own the car and I’m trying to get pointed in the right direction on where to start
I have a obd2 scanner (BlueDriver) and I’ve noticed after taking it for a ride around the block that the D3 light N light and D light are all flickering out of control on acceleration and if I shut the car off and start it back up it acts like a perfectly running car and after I got it on the highway for a second it seems to run fine all day until it sits for a min and then it starts to act ip again
I had the codes ran and all The codes listed are below
but how could this be if the transmission is supposedly new and from a glance the transmission looks to be spotless. Maybe the shop didn’t program the transmission? Or maybe they used the wrong fluid? I’m completely stumped I clear the codes and it drives flawlessly but also I will note the vsa light and the triangle with the exclamation mark is also present on the instrument cluster. Does anyone know what could cause this?
It could be the ECU/PCM. Acuras recall campaign did not address the issue. It was only done to make customers think they fixed the prob.
My car went into limp mode on a busy business hwy, only 3wks after taking it in for the recall. I didn't have the $ to pay a mechanic to diagnose the issue, so I found a service manual online & performed the diagnostics for my particular trouble code. (U0107, or something like that in my case, which stood for no communication with throttle actuator control module). The bad part about that was..the service manual flow chart instructed me to replace the TAC module, so I had to buy one, wait for it to arrive, take practically all of the interior paneling outta my car to access the module, remove it and hook up the new one and then realizing that didn't even turn out being what was wrong. I truly didn't think it could be the ECU since the recall had JUST been performed but according to the flow chart instructions, that was the only thing left that could cause that code. Once I removed the paneling where I could see the ECU/PCM, I was livid! As soon as I saw it it was clear that was the prob. It was COVERED in corrosion..to the point that pins on one of the chips on the board had completely freakn disintegrated!
The ECU is in the area between the drivers side foot area & the passenger foot area. I def suggest looking at yours before attempting any other diagnostics bc it's impossible to tell if it's the ECU, another control module, solenoid, relay etc. In other words, there's no test that can tell you if it's def the ECU. Even the dealership has to just try replacing certain parts (like in my case, the TAC module) to see if that fixes it, to determine whether the ECU is faulty. Voltage measurements etc would have all been identical in my case, whether it was the ECU or the TAC & only way to know was by swapping one out & if that didn't fix it then you'd know it was the other.
Your best bet would be to search online for a service manual to download. It has step by step instructions for diagnosing every possible trouble code & shows you how to remove the panels & everything to access the PCM or any other part you might need to get to.
I don't have the same phone as back then, or I'd search the manual I had downloaded and send you the diagnostics.
Best of luck & esp if you live somewhere that uses de-icer on winter roads, it's in your best interest to make sure your ECU isn't corroded before anything else.
Plz follow up & let me know how things go.
Oh, and if you're wondering, I bought a used ECU, desoldered the immobilizer chips from each & put the immobilizer EEPROM chip from mine in the "new" ECU & no more limp mode.