Anybody know where i can get just the engine for cheap with low milage. I havent been around for a while because i have been in and out of town and im finally going to be in town for a while so im looking to fix my baby.

 

How did you blow your engine?

 

wow.

crappy.

a local junkyard is your best bet I would assume.

 

Just finding a used TSX engine is going to be tough; a cheap one with low mileage -- not at all likely. Not that many TSX's have been wrecked.

As far as I know, any 1 Gen engine would fit -- and perhaps the 2 Gen, as well. But, your best option might be to have a qualified machine shop rebuild your engine. Check with your local dealer for shops with a good record.

Do an online search of junk yards, such as the one at:
http://www.automotix.net/usedenginel...ne,%20Complete

I would expect an engine with less than 50k miles to be around $6,000 and one with 75k miles to be around $5,000 -- but that is just a guess. It ought to cost less to rebuild your current engine; depending upon what actually 'blew'. And, you ought to have an engine, when properly completed, that is much better than a used engine with high mileage. A good shop will take care to have good piston ring seats, good value seats, install a new oil pump, and adjust all spring tensions (with shims as required) to factory specs. Probably should also replace the timing chain and gears. But, that would be a good shop -- and not a run-of-the-mill type of shop.

 

The power of Egay lol


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...=p4506.c0.m245

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...=p4506.c0.m245

 

I found one local for $1350. Try your local craigslist.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/845979335.html

 

Be very careful if you buy an engine for any area of the country that has experienced recent flooding; especially with salt water. A car doesn't have to have been wrecked to end up in the salvage yard.

An engine exposed to salt water will likely run for a number of months before it fails -- or starts developing unusual noises.

 

the dealer told me that when i did my oil change that my screw for the oil pan was stripped and the oil leaked out and i was driving withouth oil. my oil light never came on and i have been doing the oil changed on my car since i was 16 and had my first civic and never had any problems at all. i have had 3 cars since and had problems with none of them.

i have found acouple on ebay but i am kind of scared to get one from there because i do not know where it came from.

 

Hmm... I don't see how the screw or threads would strip if a new crush washer is used and not over-tightened.

 

A very obvious oil puddle ought to have formed under the car when it was parked -- if you lost that much oil around the drain plug. It would have had to have been more than a quart -- probably more than 1.5 quarts. Pour just 1/4 quart of oil on pavement, or a driveway, or garage floor -- and you will hardly believe that it was just 1/4 quart -- sort of like spilling paint.

 

yeah thats what i told them. they said it mustve happened over a period of time with me driving it all the time and stuff but i told them that its not even my daily drive. i have a 01 jetta and i drive that everywhere because my tsx has way too many miles on it already

 

ok quick question..

since i have alot of work to do to the car i thought i might as well do some stuff to it..

im thinkin about going stage 2 clutch.. meaning i will need a new flywheel too? is that correct or no? and if so, what brand of clutch and flywheel do you guys recommend.

im also thinking new headers and CAI.

im thinkin of just a simple icebox but dont know what kind of headers yet. any suggestions?

 

Of what benefit would a stage 2 clutch be in a TSX? We are talking about huge torque, or power.

Of what benefit would new headers be in a TSX?

 

not too much difference. if u want such a big difference a supercharger would be the way to go. i just want small stuff im not looking into spending 10,000 dollars on a 20,000 dollar car

 

It would be my opinion that a stage 2 clutch would offer no benefit -- thus, it would be a waste of money. And, a new header would offer, at best, no more than a 2 HP gain. I suspect that you have better uses for your cash.

 

Actually, header provides good results on the TSX. Below is the dyno on a practically brand new engine. The numbers are SAE whp and wtq.

 

thank you. i was looking for something like that. i assume he was thinking that i am going to spend my money on all the little stuff before i actually get my engine and new ecu in.

another quick question.

i just called the dealer and they're talking about $815 for a new ECU. WTF?!?!

 

Why do you need a new ECU?

 

no clue at all.. thats what the dealership told me. i didnt think that i would need one but the guy at the dealership keeps insisting on me needing one

 

i thought i would just have to get it reprogrammed for the new engine?!? i dont know much about new engines and computers and all the technical stuff for the cars so i didnt even bother questioning him

 

Wait, what exactly is wrong with your engine? Does it start and run? Smoke? Noise?

 

basically it doesnt crank at all.. he told me that it had no oil in it and i drove it with no oil so my engine is done.. no smoke, noise, nothing

 

i tried putting some oil in it and it will start for a acouple minutes and then cut back off

 

Have you tried anything to verify? Does the battery have enough power to turn over the engine? Did you drain the oil in a pan to see how much oil remainds inside the engine? What about the actual condition of the drain bolt and threads? I ask these questions because something doesn't seem right of what the dealer said.

Edit: now I see your battery is good enough to start the engine and the engine is not actually seized up.

 

well i tried giving the car a jump and it wouldnt turn over at all. i haven't got the car back from the dealership yet so im waiting for the tow truck now to mess with it so i can atleast figure something out. the dealership has me so confused that i really dont even know whats wrong with it. i think they are BS'n me to get my money. trying to charge me 3600 for a used engine with 55000 miles and saying i need a new clutch and ecu.

 

Tow the car to another dealer for a second opinion.

 

yeah thats what im thinking about doing. it just doesnt sound right. i would like to find a good shop around the NoVA area, i think they will give me a more accurate description of what is actually wrong with the car

 

There's a good possibility that the dealer doesn't know what's wrong with the car and decides to replace a bunch of parts at your expense. You don't need to pay for their on-the-job training.

 

yeah im going to look around for a good shop around my place. hopefully i find something good

 

hmotorsonline.com


keep your tranny.

 

check your coolant levels, it sounds like the motor is seizing due to excessive heat. Also I would check the oil levels on the car, and also maybe check to see if oil is getting to the parts...

 

Can you tell me where to buy the header that was used and the cost? An eight HP increase is not bad providing that it entails no more than replacing the header. I presume that there no changes to the exhaust system. I am surprised that the OEM header is cutting 8 HP from the output.

 

I have the DC Sports header with stock exhaust at the time of the dyno. However, DC Sports has been sold a couple times and the quality of the product or inventory is questionable. You can contact our forum vendors (MrHeeltoe or Excelerate) to see what other header selection is available.

 

ok so i find out today that the only thing messed up on the car is the motor. now im searching for an engine and im seeing a few and none of them say if its for a MT or AT. Does it matter ? and just wondering if anybody had any loyal mechanics that they trust in to put in the motor around the NOVA area?

 

Curious, could he of swapped in the K24l 160hp motor from the 4 cylinder accord/crv/Element? Or maybe a K20 from a wrecked RSX?

 

curious on what the problem ended up being

 

JDM K20 Type R FTW ! 220 BHP stock

 

 

You won't be running a CRV k24a or JDM K20A with your stock ECU.

 

I know, some things would have to be changed. Sadly... But JDM K20 is a great engine