cincy cd

97 TL 2.5 L: With thin REAR rotors and worn shoes at 200K miles I set off to replace both (I have a few brake jobs to my credit on other models in the last 10 yrs). Everything went ok until I tried to push the brake piston back into the caliper (using a c clamp, then a mod reversing a steering wheel puller into a pusher!) with absolutely no luck...it would not budge. Opening the bleed valve and applying (a great deal) of force to the piston did no good either, there is something preventing the backflow of fluid in the brake line. Looking at the service manual i did not find any help. Anyone know the correct way to get the piston retracted so that I can get the amount of clearance i need to fit the caliper assembly over the new rotor and brakes...greatly appreciated Thanks

01tl4tl

remove the brake fluid line from the caliper and see if it drips fluid
There can be severe corrossion inside the lines or caliper that block it
How did the wear pattern on the pads and rotors look- was it even across the surfaces

cincy cd

there was no abnormal or uneven wear on shoes or rotor. I have serviced the brake system every 30K with a brake flush at the dealer.

KrayzieDxC

thats the only way, bleed , it a two person job.. if it fail you might want a new capilers.

what i do is for a one person job is unbolt the bleed and push the piston all the way down andput my pads in then put my bleed bolt on and press the pedal to the floor with a peice of wood, and then tight up the bleed a lil more, and press breaks again and same procedure one more time. and all set.. good luck though

01tl4tl

Sounds bizzare krazzie- I wouldnt put that in the safe methods box

For cincy
You may have a plugged bleeder screw - remove it and inspect for tiny hole going thru
Spray carb cleaner thru it- the bolt that goes thru the brake line may be plugged- it too has a small passageway that should be inspected and cleaned
Available at any parts store 2 bucks or less

Even though you kept up on the brake fluid flush- things wear out in cars

KrayzieDxC

hey im saying its my way. im not telling no body to do it. my breaks work 100% fine! your choices.also flush my dirty break fuild too.

Go90go

If it works, do it! I almost bought one of those "one-man bleeders" from a parts shop but I said screw it and paid this Mexican dude $20 to help me do it. I stepped on the pedal while he tightened and bled the fluid. At $5 more than a part I would've lost anyway, I'd say it was worth it.

~Cheers~

lankanboy1

ahh same prob here, the guy asking me 100 $ each caliper, myn is so rusted

01tl4tl

Thats why we need to fush the fluid every year- rust!!

I got calipers off Kragen online, 72 fronts 77 rears, and I went with Legend dual piston calipers for the same price for the fronts

You can usually get the store to price match their online store too- just print it out

cincy cd

finished the rear brake job.... the gory details:
the piston is retracted by screwing it back into the caliper body. u need a special tool that can be used with a socket wrench, the tool fits into the recessed cross pattern on the piston face. be prepared as it takes many turns to screw the piston back into the caliper so that it will clear the new pads and rotor. u can get the tool at any auto parts store or harbor freight for $5 -$10. I bought rotors from a reputable on line parts store that were "OEM After Market" for $62 ea and Performance Friction Brake Carbon- Metallic pads for just over $50. If the pads work as good as they look I'm set. Got 199K miles out out of the rear rotors and 120 K out of dealer the pads!

desired_speeds

lol i had that problem last time, its a wonder that I didnt break the caliper. I just grabbed the tool from my local kragen for less than $10