TexasHonda

You can buy the parts at many auto parts stores. If you don't have time or transport to get a part, I would clean the screen w/ throttle body cleaner or mineral spirits and re-install the old unit to return to service.

good luck

sushimaster

Thanks Texas Honda.

I called the Acura Dealership Parts Dept. and they won't have the part in for another week due to the holidays and all. Meanwhile he said I can just clean the filter with brake cleaner. And I did. I resinstalled the old filter but I already scraped off the old gasket and upon putting back the pan, it of course is leaking pretty bad. So I bought a new Oil pan from Walmart to catch the expensive Synthetic tranny fluid that I just put in. I'm just gonna have to wait until the parts come. Thank God I also have an Acura CL to drive.

sushimaster

Update. Hey guys, I just finished changing out the tranny filter screen on my fiancee's 1996 2.6 TL this past weekend with a new one. Drained the old tranny fluid out and put in new Acura/Honda ATF.

I've been noticing lately that shifting from 1st to 2nd occurs at 3k rpm, same goes for 2nd - 3rd. And this is just normal driving and not hard acceleration. Even after I changed out the filter screen and tranny fluid, it still shifts late.

Is there need to be concerned? Any opinions as to what could be causing the late shifts ? The car has just hit 139k miles btw. Thanks.

NickKendryna

I have a few questions for you all. I just got my tranny flushed and then read that there is this screen/filter. I called the repair facility that did the flush and they said they use a high pressure flush system which actually cleans the screen filter in the process of the flush. Is this possible?, can this "high pressure" system really clean all the sludge and metal shavings out of the screen? or should I change it? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks - Nick 95 TL 114K

Go90go

^ Flushing our tranny IS NOT GOOD! It can dislodge particles that have accumulated over time causing them to float around damaging things in the tranny. A regular drain and fill is all we should do! If you can, go have the screen replaced and see if they'll show you the filter as they're removing it. I'm sure you'll find quite a bit of crap still in there.

~Cheers~

NickKendryna

I can't get anything right it seems. SO no more Flushes, just drain and fill and yes I will be doing the filter replacing in the next couple of days and let you know Go90go. I will Private Message you wen I do it to let you know. Again Thanks for the info. - Nick

Go90go

NP, m8. Just look out for ya!

~Cheers~

racerock

Flush will not fully clean the screen. Screen can really get clogged at 110 - 120 K to the point it, or the fluid causes shudder like symptoms.

Yes, you should change it. I too would be curious to see what it looks like after it is pulled, though a picture does not show all...

Changing all the fluid is not a problem, and personally, I prefer that.

95ildelsolsi

Just ordered the parts, $56.36 w/ tax from Local Dealership. Not horrible I guess, cheaper than the damage it could cause.

bpjadhav

Make sure you guys remember to use gasket sealant when you do this job.

meazz1

I second that...
I learned the hard way.

tlmadness

Luv working on cars but can you use one of the machines such as jiffy lube offers for the 89 dollar transmission service. Used this service on other cars and worked like a charm. My volvo has over 243k and have had no problems with service. Or are TL different?

NickKendryna

As usuall I have encountered different advice. acura dealer said not to use gasket sealent as it could set off one of our sensors. They said if you get any of it in the tranny it could be very harmful and advised me not use any sealent at all with the gasket. What am I to do? I have the parts and am ready?

TexasHonda

They are right. This is an oring seal and adding gasket material only introduces possibility of some of it being sucked into the hydraulic pump.

good luck

tilove17

lets say hypothetically some sealant makes its way into some of d tranny fluid how would you be able to tell?

Go90go

I usually spray a light coat of sealant just to help it set and not shift around while installing it.

~Cheers~

meazz1

I frst did not use any sealant, just the gasket and there was fluid leaking from the front corner. A very little gasket won't hurt and it will help seal it right.

NickKendryna

Here is all the stuff I got for $67 when I called Tim at HondaAcuraWorld. This is all the correct stuff for a 95 TL 2.5

Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-25

You can really see the difference between the 2.5 and the 3.2. The Tube on this is alot shorter and does not extend as far as the one in KamLuNgs Pics. Hope all goes well. I will not be using any gasket sealant, just a little leary of it, so hopefully it works.

Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-25

NickKendryna

Look at all the Junk

Shot with DSC-W7

Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-25

Ok, so for anyone thinking of doing this, you absolutey should! After drivign it for the first time it was like driving a new car. Before the change it used to shift really hard on 1st and 2nd and the whole car would feel like it was lunging forward. Now the car shifts so smooth and beautiful it's amazing. I also did the Differential change with new Gear Oil. This was worth every Penny and i'll probably do this more often to keep everything so smooth. Thanks KaMLuNg for your help and everybody else. Next up, Motor Mounts!!

Alexander124c41+

Just ordered my transmission parts from Tim at HondaAcuraWorld.... more on my flush later...

Alexander124c41+

Just completed the work on the transmission drain/refill. Worked like a charm! No more shudders between shifts.

LastBoyScout

Ill be doing a tranny flush using the 4x Flush Method by Gil and then installing the new strainer tomorrow.

Maybe it wont be raining when it do it like it is today.

LastBoyScout

Oh man... Its like a night and day difference!

By the time i got done doing the 4x Flush and then popped open the transmission pan it was all nice a clean inside with a whole bunch of thick built up sludge on the strainer.

Makes me wish I had known that my Legend had this... could have kept that transmission in better shape.

NickKendryna

Can somebody explain what the 4x flush is? Is there another thread on it?

LastBoyScout

I originally got this from the Legend site since im a previous Legend owner. One of the members was Gil, a gentleman who runs one of the largest Honda Transmission Service Centers. This was a step that he devised for use on Honda Transmissions since power flushing a Honda Tranny is never a good idea. This method is really cost effective and besides, as Gil states "To dump that much Honda fluid just to flush would be a sin; not to mention costly as all get up."

Please Carefully Read what is posted for use with the correct Cars as the 2.5L and 3.2L use different ATF Fluid Volumes.

4x Transmission Flush by Gil

Parts Needed:
======================
2.5L Parts
----------------------------------------
1 Bottle Platinum or Black
LubeGard or Smart Blend

3 Quarts F-Type ATF Fluid

9 Quarts Dextron III Fluid

3 Quarts Honda ATF-Z1

======================
3.2L Parts
---------------------------------------
1 Bottle Platinum or Black
LubeGard or Smart Blend

4 Quarts F-Type ATF Fluid

11 Quarts Dextron III Fluid

4 Quarts Honda ATF-Z1


=====================
Time to play with your car.......
=====================

1. Drain the fluid and add 3 quarts of "F" type fluid (Add 3.5 quarts for the 3.2L). F-fluid (ATF) is what is used in Ford transmissions. It has a very high detergent base to it that is designed to clean the internal parts and to break down varnish build up.

2. Drive the car around for several miles and then drain it again . I do not recommend that you leave the F-type fluid in the car for an
extended time.

3. Now having drained the fluid refill the unit with 3 quarts of
Dextron III (3.5 quarts for the 3.2L) and again drive the car around for a few miles
working the Dextron in. While you are doing this what you are
actually doing is diluting the F-type fluid and flushing the dirty fluid
out of the converter at the same time.

4. Return to the driveway and dump the fluid again

5. Repeat the process again. (Steps 3-4)

6. Repeat the process once again. (Steps 3-4)

7. Now , having returned once again , you have drained one last
time (This should be the 4th time dumping fluic). At this point what little F-type fluid that was left has been drastically diluted and the majority of what you have left is Dextron III.

7. Now fill the tranny up with Genuine Honda ATF . Honda fluid has
a high silicone base to it and that is what will keep your tranny
shifting smooth.

You have now dilluted the F Type Fluid to next to nothing, not enough to hurt a thing. Now its time to convert that Dextron III to Honda Fluid.

Get a bottle of a product called "Smart
Blend" It's made by a company called "Life Products" Be sure to
get the Platinum Bottle (New on the Market) or the Black bottle as it is specially designed to convert Dextron over to Honda fluid. This is a product that we endorse, and use it in all our transmissions through out the building process. If you can't find it then use Lube Guard , and again use the Platinumb bottle (Also New on the Market) or the Black bottle. Both the Platinum and Black Bottles convert the fluid over to a High Friction Motified Fluid.

8. Pour one full bottle of LubeGard or Smart Blend into the tranny and you're set. LubeGard and Smart blend reduce operating temps as well as is a friction modifier that will reduce clutch pack chatter as well as help with converter lock up. Now the reason you start with the F type fluid is to clean . Then you use Dextron to dilute the F-type (Ford) fluid and besides to dump that much Honda fluid just to flush would be a sin, not to mention costly as all get up.


Personal Notes:

Add some dirty oil to your dumped fluid and mix it in. Then just take it to any place that accepts used motor oil. Transmission fluid is an oil too, but its colored red to show the different use. Wouldn't want a nosy worker asking why your engine oil is red would you?

I Performed this before doing my ATF Strainer replacement and let me say that my transmission was sparkling clean when i took off that oil pan. The old strainer worked great and really collected the sludge from the F Type fluid doing its cleaning.

I hope this helps as I know that ive used this on 2 cars of mine and 3 honda's/acura's of friends and family. Not one person has had an issue yet. In fact in my brother's Integra we used B&M Synthetic Trick Shift (which is a motified Dextron III fluid) in place of the Honda ATF-Z1 and the Dextron III and then just added the LubeGard Platinum. Worked like a charm and kinda "beefed up" his transmission so that it would hold better when he was runnin' and gunnin'.

LastBoyScout

well, since time expired before i realized i did have some errors ill just post the add-ons here.

If you plan on doing the 4X flush before replacing the AFT Strainer, be sure to replace the strainer inbetween steps 7 and 7 (yes, 7 and 7, i mis-numbered the steps)

I would also buy one or two extra quarts of ATF-Z1 if you are doing a 4 x Flush and replacing the strainer as i found my 2.5L needed 4 total quarts of ATF-Z1 after it was all said and done to get it back to the right fluid level.

NickKendryna

This seems a little intense. I don't know about putting Ford ATF fluid in my transmission. I think I would rather just drain and fill a few times with Z1. I've changed my strainer so a few drain and fills with Z1 back to back should be sufficent. Thats a pretty cool little process though, thanks for posting.

LastBoyScout

like i said, it was originally posted by Gil who gets transmissions from Honda to directly be built and the F Type fluid isnt in there long enough to hurt a thing, only clean it. Ive yet to have a transmission fail due to it and more often than not they run 10 times better after it.

besides, after all of the changing of fluid with the addition of dextron lll fluid, you end up with something like five-one thousands or less of a quart of F Type in the tranny due to the dilution. You would have to run the tranny with the F Type in it for some 100+ miles before you started any damage. I think i drove around 5 miles on a loop with each drain and fill working the car in each gear.

NickKendryna

Honestly, I would like to do it, but I just changed my strainer like 10K ago and If I do this then I would have to change the strainer also since all the crap will go into it. If I had not changed my strainer yet, I would probably do this 4x flush.

LastBoyScout

Just following up with the Strain and Drain since i got a few PMs about people being scared about doing the 4x Flush.

It still works great, and best of all that fluid is still nice and red/pink in color.

Im actually thinking about adding a Wix inline tranny filter just as a secondary precaution and maybe slapping a filter mag on it too.

LastBoyScout

Just remember that adding the Lube Guard or Smart Blend will take your Dextron III Fluid and add the friction modifiers that are needed to make it the same as Honda ATF-Z1

tmnhs81

Can someone please tell me website where I can get cheaper Honda ATF?? I tried the sites you guys provided but no luck!

KrayzieDxC

http://www.handa-accessories.com/civmaint01.html

M-TL

Thanks KamLung for the DIY.

I just did my 96 3.2TL (canadian version, FWIW) at 237k (148k miles). Went smooth overall but wanted to add some notes for future DIYers.

My TL was not winter driven by the previous owner so the undercarriage is exceptionally rust-free. (Rare given Quebec winters & road salt) The ATF drain plug required a few taps of the hammer on the wrench to loosen. I don't have a breaker bar, and there isn't much room for one. Neither my electric or pneumatic impact wrenches would fit, and the air ratchet was not strong enough.

Once the pan was mostly drained, I cleaned and replaced the plug - which I suggest. I then set to removing the ATF pan. All the bolts holding the pan came off easily with my electric impact drill.

TIP: I recommend that people use a drill to partially (mostly) unscrew the bolts. I did this and as I was loosening the last bolt, the pan dropped down onto the hanging bolts. This was contrary to OP's experience where the pan was stuck in place. Had I removed all the bolts one by one, the pan and the remaining oil might have suddenly fallen on me or on the floor.

Once removed, carefully drain the pan of remaining oil (which was about 1/4 quart) and wipe the bottom of the pan with paper towel. Mine had only a thin layer of grey dust that wiped off easily.

Follow OP directions without forgetting to put the O ring on the new filter. I finger tightened the three bolts and finished off with a wrench.

TIP: To replace the pan with the new gasket, put one bolt in so that it will hold the gasket (which has the corresponding bolt holes) in place. You then take it back under the car and once you're roughly lined up, you can screw in by hand and put another on the opposite side so it will then be held in place. You then won't have to hold the pan in place and so can take your time to screw in the other bolts. Once the bolts were threaded on by hand, I used the drill to screw the bolts in - this made it quick. Finish off by checking with a wrench.

To refill the ATF, just use a funnel to fill in the tube where the ATF dipstick is located. (I mention this as I at first wasn't sure how to refill.) And for those who don't know where this is (as I didn't), it's the dipstick just behind the engine (that is just between the engine and the windshield).

I accidently put four quarts of Honda ATF in - I meant to put 3.5 and check. I checked after testing and driving the car as suggested by OP and found the ATF just above the rectangle on the dipstick. I presume that it means I have a tad more than recommended. I am planning to leave that as is, unless someone authoritatively knows this is harmful.

CONCLUSION: My tranny shudder at 60kph (38mph) @1500 rpm is now gone and the 2nd gear clunk is also gone. I haven't floored it yet, but suspect that it will accelerate better during highway merges. I doubt if it will affect my gas mileage (9.5 l/100km or 25 mpg). In any case it feels great to ditch the tranny shudder and knock. Total time was 2 1/4 hours for setup, repair and clean-up.

Go90go

Not worth it after shipping and tax for us Californians. Best bet is to go with me or Wilson to Acura and get it in person. I used to get employee price, but Wilson still gets a fairly big discount most of the time.

~Cheers~

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

i just buy it at the honda dealership... yea not much of a discount... but a little better than at Acura... i have yet to find an online site that will actually ship fluids cheap since it is hazardous liquid...

im tempted to give the Amsoil ATF a shot... maybe at next change at 150k miles... it works pretty well on the 3G TL, but im afraid to tinkler with the 1G at such a high mileage, if it ain't broke don't fix it...

Mandy

Yes, the Honda dealer is the better place to get the ATZ from!!! Of course!

desired_speeds

so........ I just did mine today, now my tranny is slipping in 1st and 2nd gear.... fun! I have a feeling its the solenoids? any ideas guys?

ivopivo

Is there a pic of where the new fluid is filled in? Is there a place in the engine bay or is it similar to the diff where the fill plug is down on the tranny?

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

you fill the ATF into the dipstick... so if you look at the engine on the driver side towards the back, you should see a dipstick with a yellow rubber handle... fill the ATF in there...

there is no fill bolt like on the differential...

good luck...