Tranny Filter/Screen DIY
02-11-2006, 08:09 PM
#1
Tranny Filter/Screen DIY
Parts Required (tranny screen, o-ring, and pan gasket) pic below
the hardware can be bought at any local Honda/Acura dealer, but i bought mine online and they shipped straight to my door... ATF u have to go to a dealer....
Tools Required
1.) .5" socket
2.) 2" socket extension
3.) 10mm
4.) torque wrench
5.) lots of towels and rubber gloves
6.) oil catch pan
7.) carb chocke/throttle body cleaner
8.) flat head screwdriver
9.) hammer/mallet
okay lets get cracking...
1.) jack up the car... i didn't take a pic of this because i am assuming that if u r going to attempt this, then u are able to find the jack point in the front center of the car... u will need to jack it up pretty high because the tranny sits as far back as the front doors... so jack it up and set your jack stands... (do NOT work under the car without jackstands) my stands went up about 5 or 6 clicks to give you and idea of how high i got the car...
2.) crawl under car and look for your tranny... it should look like the pic below... take your socket and it plugs straight into the drain bolt.... depending on how long it has been since the bolt has been removed, it may be on there.. i needed to use a breaker bar... i think this was the first time my tranny fluid was changes..
remove the drain bolt and let the oil drain... watch out because the oil shoots outta there pretty fast...
here is the drain bolt.. look at all the sludge i wiped off... it was so built up that the bolt came out about 4 inches long... 1 inch bolt and about 3 inches of solid sludge...
3.) you can decide to put the plug back in or leave it off... if you look closely at the pan, there are 14 bolts holding the pan up...
4.) remove the bolts 10mm with extension and u will get the pic below... don't worry, the pan is held in by two rivets (if that is what it is called)
5.) after you remove the bolts the pan will just sit there... i used a flat screwdriver and hammer and pry the pan down from the front passenger corner.... don't be afraid to use a little muscle because u are basically prying into the old gasket... after you get the pan loose, watch out when it drops alot of oil will come out...
6.) when u look up it will look like this... the filter is the darker grey unit... it was actually black when i looked at it.. camera flash made it look grey...
the filter is held in with three bolts that are three different lengths... make sure u remember where which one goes. all 10mm...
7.) after you remove the bolts, the o-ring still holds the filter up... remove the filter very slowly because oil will gush out very quickly... i didn't excpet this and the filter dropped and i was covered in oil...
8.) i put both the pan and the filter into an oil catch pan to drain all of the oil...
just look at all that buildup in that old filter.
side by side comparison...
okay that is basically it... the installation is just the reverse of everything... there are a few things i did before i put everything back together tho...
1.) put the o-ring onto the new filter and put the filter screen into the main valve body... reinstall the screws and torque them to 9ft/lbs... my torque wrench did not go that low so i just tightened them and used my judgement... not too loose not too tight...
2.) i used throttle body cleaner to clean out the whole oil pan and i even sprayed the main valve body of the tranny itself... it removed any old buildup sludge and oil... i also used it as a thinner to help scrape off remnants of the old pan gasket that was still stuck on there...
3.) before i put the pan back in, i put the oil drain plug back onto the pan first... torque to 35 ft/lbs... cleaned that all up and then spread a little bit of new oil around the edge of the pan where the new gasket will sit...
4.) line up the pan and reinstall.. it may take a few times for it to line up with the gasket moving and all... not a big deal... once you get it on there, torque all 14 bolts to 9 ft/lbs... again, i used my judgement of not too loose not too tight...
done... service bulletins say that you should only need to refill 3.5 quarts but after i drove the car and rechecked it, it looks like all 4 quarts are needed... fill in about 3.5 quarts first, then check and fill as needed...
5.) before you actually drive off, run the transmission through all of the gears for a few secs in each gear... then i drove it for about 10 miles.. first 2-3 miles i was easy on it to let the oil warm up, then i jumped on the highway and drove for a few miles very easy... at my exit, i put it in 1st and took it to 6k, 2nd to 6k, and 3rd to about 3.5k, and then easy driving for the last 2 miles... i only did this little 'break in' because my car will only be driven 30-40 miles for the next 3 wks.. im going on vacation... but i feel all new things need a little breakin, even new oil...
the hardware can be bought at any local Honda/Acura dealer, but i bought mine online and they shipped straight to my door... ATF u have to go to a dealer....
Tools Required
1.) .5" socket
2.) 2" socket extension
3.) 10mm
4.) torque wrench
5.) lots of towels and rubber gloves
6.) oil catch pan
7.) carb chocke/throttle body cleaner
8.) flat head screwdriver
9.) hammer/mallet
okay lets get cracking...
1.) jack up the car... i didn't take a pic of this because i am assuming that if u r going to attempt this, then u are able to find the jack point in the front center of the car... u will need to jack it up pretty high because the tranny sits as far back as the front doors... so jack it up and set your jack stands... (do NOT work under the car without jackstands) my stands went up about 5 or 6 clicks to give you and idea of how high i got the car...
2.) crawl under car and look for your tranny... it should look like the pic below... take your socket and it plugs straight into the drain bolt.... depending on how long it has been since the bolt has been removed, it may be on there.. i needed to use a breaker bar... i think this was the first time my tranny fluid was changes..
remove the drain bolt and let the oil drain... watch out because the oil shoots outta there pretty fast... here is the drain bolt.. look at all the sludge i wiped off... it was so built up that the bolt came out about 4 inches long... 1 inch bolt and about 3 inches of solid sludge...
3.) you can decide to put the plug back in or leave it off... if you look closely at the pan, there are 14 bolts holding the pan up...
4.) remove the bolts 10mm with extension and u will get the pic below... don't worry, the pan is held in by two rivets (if that is what it is called)
5.) after you remove the bolts the pan will just sit there... i used a flat screwdriver and hammer and pry the pan down from the front passenger corner.... don't be afraid to use a little muscle because u are basically prying into the old gasket... after you get the pan loose, watch out when it drops alot of oil will come out...
6.) when u look up it will look like this... the filter is the darker grey unit... it was actually black when i looked at it.. camera flash made it look grey...
the filter is held in with three bolts that are three different lengths... make sure u remember where which one goes. all 10mm...
7.) after you remove the bolts, the o-ring still holds the filter up... remove the filter very slowly because oil will gush out very quickly... i didn't excpet this and the filter dropped and i was covered in oil...
8.) i put both the pan and the filter into an oil catch pan to drain all of the oil...
just look at all that buildup in that old filter.
side by side comparison...
okay that is basically it... the installation is just the reverse of everything... there are a few things i did before i put everything back together tho...
1.) put the o-ring onto the new filter and put the filter screen into the main valve body... reinstall the screws and torque them to 9ft/lbs... my torque wrench did not go that low so i just tightened them and used my judgement... not too loose not too tight...
2.) i used throttle body cleaner to clean out the whole oil pan and i even sprayed the main valve body of the tranny itself... it removed any old buildup sludge and oil... i also used it as a thinner to help scrape off remnants of the old pan gasket that was still stuck on there...
3.) before i put the pan back in, i put the oil drain plug back onto the pan first... torque to 35 ft/lbs... cleaned that all up and then spread a little bit of new oil around the edge of the pan where the new gasket will sit...
4.) line up the pan and reinstall.. it may take a few times for it to line up with the gasket moving and all... not a big deal... once you get it on there, torque all 14 bolts to 9 ft/lbs... again, i used my judgement of not too loose not too tight...
done... service bulletins say that you should only need to refill 3.5 quarts but after i drove the car and rechecked it, it looks like all 4 quarts are needed... fill in about 3.5 quarts first, then check and fill as needed...
5.) before you actually drive off, run the transmission through all of the gears for a few secs in each gear... then i drove it for about 10 miles.. first 2-3 miles i was easy on it to let the oil warm up, then i jumped on the highway and drove for a few miles very easy... at my exit, i put it in 1st and took it to 6k, 2nd to 6k, and 3rd to about 3.5k, and then easy driving for the last 2 miles... i only did this little 'break in' because my car will only be driven 30-40 miles for the next 3 wks.. im going on vacation... but i feel all new things need a little breakin, even new oil...
02-11-2006, 09:57 PM
#4
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Thread stuck 
02-11-2006, 10:24 PM
#6
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...03&postcount=1
another relevant site for atf strainer but using carb cleaner to reuse. i want to do this now, but id freeze my ass
another relevant site for atf strainer but using carb cleaner to reuse. i want to do this now, but id freeze my ass
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02-12-2006, 11:22 AM
#9
Three Wheelin'
thanks kam...not only a great thread, but in my case, i forgot to order the o-ring, so thanks for the heads-up......will be doing this, this weekend.
hey, u forgot the most important part - how does she drive now that the tranny fluid has been changed, and the strainer cleared?
hey, u forgot the most important part - how does she drive now that the tranny fluid has been changed, and the strainer cleared?
02-12-2006, 01:44 PM
#10
Originally Posted by esco786
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...03&postcount=1
another relevant site for atf strainer but using carb cleaner to reuse. i want to do this now, but id freeze my ass
another relevant site for atf strainer but using carb cleaner to reuse. i want to do this now, but id freeze my ass
vish...
i def feel a difference... i think the fluid was the factory fill... 100,500 miles on that oil... im surprised my tranny didn't fall apart yet... i was having the weird shudder on the highway and after i finished flushing it out and cleaning everything, my test drive, no shudder.. i was so happy... look at my drainbolt.. u can see all the sludge... def do it... maintinence goes a long way.. i will prob do a flush and fill after 3k miles to get the rest of the fluid that i couldn't get to in the torque converter...
02-13-2006, 03:35 PM
#12
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Nice DIY
Hey, does it matter if I use a Honda Filter or a Fram or aftermarket one?
Honda dealer told me $47 for just a filter while Kraagen is $32 for the whole kit. Plus out of the blue tranny shops are saying $15 for the filter.
Hey, does it matter if I use a Honda Filter or a Fram or aftermarket one?
Honda dealer told me $47 for just a filter while Kraagen is $32 for the whole kit. Plus out of the blue tranny shops are saying $15 for the filter.
02-13-2006, 05:12 PM
#13
does it matter??? to some yes, to some no...
if you look at esco's post above, he links you to a thread where a memer just cleaned his old filter and reused it...
and here is another thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...0&page=2&pp=25
IMO, i would go with a OEM Honda/Acura screen... since you don't know the composition of the aftermarket ones, you may be creating more maintinence for yourself with an aftermarket filter... if the pores in the screen are not the same size, you may have to change out your screen more than expected... i went 100k miles on my original screen so i stick with OEM...
it is funny because when i called hondacuraworld to order the parts, he told me that in his 12 yrs in the business, he has never had to have anyone replace this tranny screen... u can order it for $37.31 through him... in total i spent about 52$ for the screen, gasket and o-ring and about 25 bucks for Honda ATF... well worth the investment
if you look at esco's post above, he links you to a thread where a memer just cleaned his old filter and reused it...
and here is another thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...0&page=2&pp=25
IMO, i would go with a OEM Honda/Acura screen... since you don't know the composition of the aftermarket ones, you may be creating more maintinence for yourself with an aftermarket filter... if the pores in the screen are not the same size, you may have to change out your screen more than expected... i went 100k miles on my original screen so i stick with OEM...
it is funny because when i called hondacuraworld to order the parts, he told me that in his 12 yrs in the business, he has never had to have anyone replace this tranny screen... u can order it for $37.31 through him... in total i spent about 52$ for the screen, gasket and o-ring and about 25 bucks for Honda ATF... well worth the investment
02-13-2006, 07:52 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
does it matter??? to some yes, to some no...
if you look at esco's post above, he links you to a thread where a memer just cleaned his old filter and reused it...
and here is another thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...0&page=2&pp=25
IMO, i would go with a OEM Honda/Acura screen... since you don't know the composition of the aftermarket ones, you may be creating more maintinence for yourself with an aftermarket filter... if the pores in the screen are not the same size, you may have to change out your screen more than expected... i went 100k miles on my original screen so i stick with OEM...
it is funny because when i called hondacuraworld to order the parts, he told me that in his 12 yrs in the business, he has never had to have anyone replace this tranny screen... u can order it for $37.31 through him... in total i spent about 52$ for the screen, gasket and o-ring and about 25 bucks for Honda ATF... well worth the investment
if you look at esco's post above, he links you to a thread where a memer just cleaned his old filter and reused it...
and here is another thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...0&page=2&pp=25
IMO, i would go with a OEM Honda/Acura screen... since you don't know the composition of the aftermarket ones, you may be creating more maintinence for yourself with an aftermarket filter... if the pores in the screen are not the same size, you may have to change out your screen more than expected... i went 100k miles on my original screen so i stick with OEM...
it is funny because when i called hondacuraworld to order the parts, he told me that in his 12 yrs in the business, he has never had to have anyone replace this tranny screen... u can order it for $37.31 through him... in total i spent about 52$ for the screen, gasket and o-ring and about 25 bucks for Honda ATF... well worth the investment
Thanks...
$20 for a college student goes a long way
02-14-2006, 05:08 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
^^^^ haha, i agree.
But i went with all OEM. Guys, DONT forget to order that freakin "o-ring". Thanks Kam for the heads up on that, I'd have probably pulled the filter out and THEN realized that I needed an o-ring if I hadn't seen this thread.
I agree with Kam, for stuff like this that is done once in the blue moon, OEM should be the way to go. Same with the ATF - the accord gets any DEXRON3 stuff but the Acura....ATF-Z1 all the way baby!
Oh and on a sidenote: order the stuff online, way cheaper. I forgot to order the o-ring, and had to order one today from my local dealer in order to have it by the weekend. Cost me 10 FREAKIN bucks!!!
But i went with all OEM. Guys, DONT forget to order that freakin "o-ring". Thanks Kam for the heads up on that, I'd have probably pulled the filter out and THEN realized that I needed an o-ring if I hadn't seen this thread.
I agree with Kam, for stuff like this that is done once in the blue moon, OEM should be the way to go. Same with the ATF - the accord gets any DEXRON3 stuff but the Acura....ATF-Z1 all the way baby!
Oh and on a sidenote: order the stuff online, way cheaper. I forgot to order the o-ring, and had to order one today from my local dealer in order to have it by the weekend. Cost me 10 FREAKIN bucks!!!
02-14-2006, 06:04 PM
#16
just did this myself today using the DIY, VERY SIMPLE TO DO!
ive never worked on a car before, had no previous experience with working on cars, but doing this was very simple. Ive seen some difference in the shifting by the replacing the ATF strainer which came included in the 3rd party transmission filter kit (for 84cdn)...just be careful of all the oil, goddamn i was filthy by the end.
ive never worked on a car before, had no previous experience with working on cars, but doing this was very simple. Ive seen some difference in the shifting by the replacing the ATF strainer which came included in the 3rd party transmission filter kit (for 84cdn)...just be careful of all the oil, goddamn i was filthy by the end.
02-14-2006, 07:38 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by esco786
just did this myself today using the DIY, VERY SIMPLE TO DO!
ive never worked on a car before, had no previous experience with working on cars, but doing this was very simple. Ive seen some difference in the shifting by the replacing the ATF strainer which came included in the 3rd party transmission filter kit (for 84cdn)...just be careful of all the oil, goddamn i was filthy by the end.
ive never worked on a car before, had no previous experience with working on cars, but doing this was very simple. Ive seen some difference in the shifting by the replacing the ATF strainer which came included in the 3rd party transmission filter kit (for 84cdn)...just be careful of all the oil, goddamn i was filthy by the end.
02-15-2006, 07:57 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
yup should be the same.. 
They aren't the same parts. The 2.5 has a smaller pan (different gasket) plus the filter has a shorter tube. I just found out an hour ago when I compared my kit to your pictures.
02-15-2006, 08:11 PM
#19
Kamlung, great job with the pix. Since you did so much work there, went back and pulled a few notes from a post of mine a while back that went into some details that I'd recommend, and some info on the torque converter shudder that can occur:
Form before:
I did not have any codes set when torque converter shutter occurred. Symptoms appeared to be a torque converter shudder right around 55-60 ish with light to very light load.
Acura's normal fluid change is the pan fluid only (as you describe above) Their norm is to drain pan, and refill - that's it, and what is called for in the factory service manual. When I talked to my parts guy at the dealer, he said he rarely sells the screen/gasket, typically only the aluminum ring for the drain bolt.
If the problem is linked to low pressure at speed, changing the filter and a full flush could definitely help.
Personally, for about $20 - $25 aftermarket with the gasket, it is not worth risking cleaning the screen. I started to consider cleaning mine, but with all that fine metal/stuff in there loosened up, was worried that something would get clogged up in a ball/piston in the throttle body, etc. causing significantly more damage than a whopping $20. Note: I bought mine from a quality parts house and it was a Hastings (I think) - It was exactly like the Honda filter and included the pan gasket and o-ring.
So, yes, I replaced the screen (filter), and the gasket. As always, wipe out the pan while you are there, and clean off the magnet on the plug.
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11-21-2005, 8:08 AM
racerock
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Post #223
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 59 Trans screen R&R and Fluid Flush - Easy
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by Altitude
Racerrock
How long did it take you do do this flush?
Can it be done without a hoist? easily accesable in otherwords??
Thanks
Flushing the Fluid - I highly recommend this::::::
Really easy in my book, but as I've learned in life - unfortunately can't speak for you. Complete time is like 2 hours with clean up of tools, jacking car, waiting on wife (girlfriend, friend) to help you out by sitting their buns in the seat and turning the key. I believe that I posted in a thread on how to do this in more detail before. Basically:
-buy screen/gasket and like 13 quarts Acura trans fluid - before starting
-Raise front of car on jack stands safely
-Drain fluid
-drop pan, clean out
-replace screen - don't overtorque the bolts!
-put pan on, and put like 3 qts in
-here is one key - find the trans return line from the radiator. As I recall, it is the one on the drivers side.
-disconnect it, and put a hose from the radiator into a big pan - you will end up with like 9 quarts of trans fluid in it
-start the car up, and run it for a little bit to confirm you have the right line.
-What I do is have a second person in the drivers seat in case I need to have the car shut off.
-basically refill the pan, as you see the trans fluid coming out. you don't want to really overfill, or underfill.
-what I do is stop after adding another 3 quarts and check to see if I'm refilling o.k. then start it back up and continue until I have about 2 quarts left of the new fluid.
-At the end, you are basically running the vehicle until you feel you have enough fluid handy to top off.
-reconnect the trans line at the radiator, and you have now basically removed almost 100% of the trans fluid and replaced with new. Some cars/trucks nowadays have plugs on the torque converter (like my Expedition) to really help assure you get all the old out.
Run out? Park the car and go get more Acura fluid. That is why I like to get about 2 quarts extra - with the price of gas nowadays, it is cheaper than an extra trip.
If you are thinking ahead -
Now go do the same to your power steering system before cleaning out the pan you used to catch the fluid - Remember to get the fluid. While you have the PS reservoir empty, take some time to clean it out.
Form before:
I did not have any codes set when torque converter shutter occurred. Symptoms appeared to be a torque converter shudder right around 55-60 ish with light to very light load.
Acura's normal fluid change is the pan fluid only (as you describe above) Their norm is to drain pan, and refill - that's it, and what is called for in the factory service manual. When I talked to my parts guy at the dealer, he said he rarely sells the screen/gasket, typically only the aluminum ring for the drain bolt.
If the problem is linked to low pressure at speed, changing the filter and a full flush could definitely help.
Personally, for about $20 - $25 aftermarket with the gasket, it is not worth risking cleaning the screen. I started to consider cleaning mine, but with all that fine metal/stuff in there loosened up, was worried that something would get clogged up in a ball/piston in the throttle body, etc. causing significantly more damage than a whopping $20. Note: I bought mine from a quality parts house and it was a Hastings (I think) - It was exactly like the Honda filter and included the pan gasket and o-ring.
So, yes, I replaced the screen (filter), and the gasket. As always, wipe out the pan while you are there, and clean off the magnet on the plug.
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11-21-2005, 8:08 AM
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Post #223
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 59 Trans screen R&R and Fluid Flush - Easy
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by Altitude
Racerrock
How long did it take you do do this flush?
Can it be done without a hoist? easily accesable in otherwords??
Thanks
Flushing the Fluid - I highly recommend this::::::
Really easy in my book, but as I've learned in life - unfortunately can't speak for you. Complete time is like 2 hours with clean up of tools, jacking car, waiting on wife (girlfriend, friend) to help you out by sitting their buns in the seat and turning the key. I believe that I posted in a thread on how to do this in more detail before. Basically:
-buy screen/gasket and like 13 quarts Acura trans fluid - before starting
-Raise front of car on jack stands safely
-Drain fluid
-drop pan, clean out
-replace screen - don't overtorque the bolts!
-put pan on, and put like 3 qts in
-here is one key - find the trans return line from the radiator. As I recall, it is the one on the drivers side.
-disconnect it, and put a hose from the radiator into a big pan - you will end up with like 9 quarts of trans fluid in it
-start the car up, and run it for a little bit to confirm you have the right line.
-What I do is have a second person in the drivers seat in case I need to have the car shut off.
-basically refill the pan, as you see the trans fluid coming out. you don't want to really overfill, or underfill.
-what I do is stop after adding another 3 quarts and check to see if I'm refilling o.k. then start it back up and continue until I have about 2 quarts left of the new fluid.
-At the end, you are basically running the vehicle until you feel you have enough fluid handy to top off.
-reconnect the trans line at the radiator, and you have now basically removed almost 100% of the trans fluid and replaced with new. Some cars/trucks nowadays have plugs on the torque converter (like my Expedition) to really help assure you get all the old out.
Run out? Park the car and go get more Acura fluid. That is why I like to get about 2 quarts extra - with the price of gas nowadays, it is cheaper than an extra trip.
If you are thinking ahead -
Now go do the same to your power steering system before cleaning out the pan you used to catch the fluid - Remember to get the fluid. While you have the PS reservoir empty, take some time to clean it out.
02-16-2006, 07:38 AM
#20
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
5.) after you remove the bolts the pan will just sit there... i used a flat screwdriver and hammer and pry the pan down from the front passenger corner.... don't be afraid to use a little muscle because u are basically prying into the old gasket... after you get the pan loose, watch out when it drops alot of oil will come out...
What I think Kamlung is referring to is a corner where there is a convenient part of the pan that extends out, and you can use a large screwdriver or prybar (better).
02-16-2006, 08:16 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Haikoo
They aren't the same parts. The 2.5 has a smaller pan (different gasket) plus the filter has a shorter tube. I just found out an hour ago when I compared my kit to your pictures.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...1=&inputstate=
03-26-2006, 11:18 AM
#22
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Did you do this job by lifting with car with the portable ramps used at front wheels? I am curious about the height of the clearance for this project with the portable ramps. Please advise and thank you.
10-09-2006, 01:20 PM
#27
Cruisin'
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...03&postcount=1
When I posted that thread about cleaning the screen, it wasn't so much that I wanted to clean it, it was that we didn't have the right one.
I also would opt for an OEM screen. And, as you experienced, I was told by one of the Acura service people that they'd never changed a transmission screen, and this particular guy didn't think there was even one in there, and said I was completely wasting my time.
Great set of pictures, I'm happy to see you documented so well. My hat's off to you, KaMLuNg!
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
.... a thread where a memer just cleaned his old filter and reused it...
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
....IMO, i would go with a OEM Honda/Acura screen...... in his 12 yrs in the business, he has never had to have anyone replace this tranny screen...
Great set of pictures, I'm happy to see you documented so well. My hat's off to you, KaMLuNg!
10-12-2006, 08:26 AM
#28
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Don't feel like paying stealership prices?
Get everything from http://www.importecparts.com
At Filter Kit w Gasket $33.70
Filter O-ring $2.11
4 qts A/t Fluid Honda Z1 Atf @4.39 x 4 $17.56
Total $53.37
(Free shipping over $50)
Arrived 2 days after order.
Get everything from http://www.importecparts.com
At Filter Kit w Gasket $33.70
Filter O-ring $2.11
4 qts A/t Fluid Honda Z1 Atf @4.39 x 4 $17.56
Total $53.37
(Free shipping over $50)
Arrived 2 days after order.
10-12-2006, 09:50 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Ray from NJ
Don't feel like paying stealership prices?
Get everything from http://www.importecparts.com
At Filter Kit w Gasket $33.70
Filter O-ring $2.11
4 qts A/t Fluid Honda Z1 Atf @4.39 x 4 $17.56
Total $53.37
(Free shipping over $50)
Arrived 2 days after order.
Get everything from http://www.importecparts.com
At Filter Kit w Gasket $33.70
Filter O-ring $2.11
4 qts A/t Fluid Honda Z1 Atf @4.39 x 4 $17.56
Total $53.37
(Free shipping over $50)
Arrived 2 days after order.
thanks for the link... but the only thing i would be a little wary with is the AT filter... as previously discussed, if you put in an aftermarket filter that may not internally match up to OEM, you may essentially be creating more maintenence work for yourself...
i do have to say this though, i have found that aftermarket pan gaskets are more thicker than the paper oem gasket... but the two things i wouldn't skimp on is the actual filter and Honda ATF... perhaps you can save a few pennies but the piece of mind is worth it for me... i ordered all the parts for $43 from Tim (hondacuraworld vendor) but that wasn't including Honda ATF that i picked up from my local dealer...
oh yeah and don't forget the new washer for the tranny bolt...
10-13-2006, 09:34 AM
#30
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
thanks for the link... but the only thing i would be a little wary with is the AT filter... as previously discussed, if you put in an aftermarket filter that may not internally match up to OEM, you may essentially be creating more maintenence work for yourself...
i do have to say this though, i have found that aftermarket pan gaskets are more thicker than the paper oem gasket... but the two things i wouldn't skimp on is the actual filter and Honda ATF... perhaps you can save a few pennies but the piece of mind is worth it for me... i ordered all the parts for $43 from Tim (hondacuraworld vendor) but that wasn't including Honda ATF that i picked up from my local dealer...
oh yeah and don't forget the new washer for the tranny bolt...
Not that there would be a similar problem on the acura's "screen" it is not a paper filter element, it has a fine metal screen and unlikely to collapse.... .... But then you ask, is the size of the openings on the screen the exact size of Honda? so, stick with the mfr on this one...
10-16-2006, 03:54 PM
#31
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Hey everyone!
I am new to the forum and the TL - just bought a used 1996 3.2 TL.
So, I've been reading the forum for a week since I bought my Acura, and I called My local Acura dealer for a price quote on couple things I think need to be done on my car - timing belt, tranny service and they said btw, that this car doesn't have tranny filter so all they do is drain and fill. This makes me wonder as I can see for myself in this post that the 96 TL HAS A tranny filter?!! How can I trust my car to people like this? And this is the acura dealership, I also called couple other shops and they all said the same thing - no filter to be changed!! What should I do , i feel some hard shifting 1-2 and some vibration while at highway speed for a second or two. I live in NJ and the dealer is Acura of Ocean
I am new to the forum and the TL - just bought a used 1996 3.2 TL.
So, I've been reading the forum for a week since I bought my Acura, and I called My local Acura dealer for a price quote on couple things I think need to be done on my car - timing belt, tranny service and they said btw, that this car doesn't have tranny filter so all they do is drain and fill. This makes me wonder as I can see for myself in this post that the 96 TL HAS A tranny filter?!! How can I trust my car to people like this? And this is the acura dealership, I also called couple other shops and they all said the same thing - no filter to be changed!! What should I do , i feel some hard shifting 1-2 and some vibration while at highway speed for a second or two. I live in NJ and the dealer is Acura of Ocean
10-16-2006, 05:24 PM
#32
Originally Posted by evotronix
Hey everyone!
I am new to the forum and the TL - just bought a used 1996 3.2 TL.
So, I've been reading the forum for a week since I bought my Acura, and I called My local Acura dealer for a price quote on couple things I think need to be done on my car - timing belt, tranny service and they said btw, that this car doesn't have tranny filter so all they do is drain and fill. This makes me wonder as I can see for myself in this post that the 96 TL HAS A tranny filter?!! How can I trust my car to people like this? And this is the acura dealership, I also called couple other shops and they all said the same thing - no filter to be changed!! What should I do , i feel some hard shifting 1-2 and some vibration while at highway speed for a second or two. I live in NJ and the dealer is Acura of Ocean
I am new to the forum and the TL - just bought a used 1996 3.2 TL.
So, I've been reading the forum for a week since I bought my Acura, and I called My local Acura dealer for a price quote on couple things I think need to be done on my car - timing belt, tranny service and they said btw, that this car doesn't have tranny filter so all they do is drain and fill. This makes me wonder as I can see for myself in this post that the 96 TL HAS A tranny filter?!! How can I trust my car to people like this? And this is the acura dealership, I also called couple other shops and they all said the same thing - no filter to be changed!! What should I do , i feel some hard shifting 1-2 and some vibration while at highway speed for a second or two. I live in NJ and the dealer is Acura of Ocean
part #1 is the strainer...
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cnorthcu (05-20-2018)
10-17-2006, 07:05 AM
#34
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
i think the reason they are telling you this is because it is not technically called a tranny filter... it is actually a tranny pump intake strainer... and Acura does not have a replacement interval because it is considered as a lifetime unit... when i ordered my parts from Tim at hondacuraworld.. he is like why are u changing it??? its a lifetime part... just like our t-stats are also supposed to be lifetime... if u really want Acura to do it... show them this image...
part #1 is the strainer...
part #1 is the strainer...
-A dipstick
-A convenient way to fill
-A convenient way to check the level - you have to run the engine, put vehicle on 4 stands and with the engine running, pull the plug on the side. If fluid is "running" out, it is full. WTF.
Oh, and now BMW has recalled their "Lifetime" statement and recommending fluid changes at 100K miles. DUHHHHHH.
As I've stated before, a fluid flush and screen change fixed a torque converter shutter on my 97 TL at 110K miles or so.
10-17-2006, 02:08 PM
#36
Originally Posted by racerock
Exactly!. Well, at least we have a way to fill! My BMW 540i with "Lifetime" Fluid does not have:
-A dipstick
-A convenient way to fill
-A convenient way to check the level - you have to run the engine, put vehicle on 4 stands and with the engine running, pull the plug on the side. If fluid is "running" out, it is full. WTF.
-A dipstick
-A convenient way to fill
-A convenient way to check the level - you have to run the engine, put vehicle on 4 stands and with the engine running, pull the plug on the side. If fluid is "running" out, it is full. WTF.
that is the same way we know if our differential fluid is full... don't forget to change this oil guys... we do have a differential in our cars... maybe a writeup is in order for that also.. hmm next weekend maybe, im due for a change..
10-18-2006, 06:13 AM
#37
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
that is the same way we know if our differential fluid is full... don't forget to change this oil guys... we do have a differential in our cars... maybe a writeup is in order for that also.. hmm next weekend maybe, im due for a change..
I don't think the Acura factory service manual calls for the vehicle to be at a certain temperature (hot), engine running when you check it. I can check. Not only that, the fill hole in my 540 is right next to the exhaust, and you have to run a hose up to the engine compartment and put a funnel in it to fill it. What an abortion of a design...
Changed my diff fluid at 117K when changing everything else. You are right, many people forget about it.
10-20-2006, 03:31 PM
#38
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Well, looks like I am going to do this myself, I just need a good parts site to order everything as the dealer is 25 miles away. BTW, I tried hondacuraworld.com but there are only accessories there, is this the correct site or I am missing something?
11-22-2006, 03:37 PM
#40
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Son of a B*tch !!!
I just took apart the whole tranny filter/screen, and I'm putting the new parts in only to realize that the parts I ordered DO NOT FIT MY 1996 ACURA TL 2.5!!!!
The gasket is wrong and the filter isn't the same.
The parts for the 3.2 and the 2.5 are DIFFERENT. Wish I knew that before I started this mess.
I just took apart the whole tranny filter/screen, and I'm putting the new parts in only to realize that the parts I ordered DO NOT FIT MY 1996 ACURA TL 2.5!!!!
The gasket is wrong and the filter isn't the same.
The parts for the 3.2 and the 2.5 are DIFFERENT. Wish I knew that before I started this mess.