Failed Smog, need help guys.
09-06-2008, 03:55 PM
#1
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Location: Northridge, California
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Failed Smog, need help guys.
Failing Smog, need help
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Ok where should I begin....
This March I was driving on the 110 Freeway to San Pedro, California when suddenly my vehicle st arted smoking. When I pulled over I shut off the car and popped the hood. To my suprise I saw motor oil splattered all over the engine. I tried to turn on the car but there was no compression. After towing it 30 miles to my mechanic's house we found out that the Water Valve was broken; as a result, all the coolant in my car escaped causing my engine to overheat and stall. It was so bad that the distributor cap melted. Well after looking all over the San Fernando Valley I found an engine with 150,000 miles for $400 of a 97 2.5tl. My car is a 1996 Acura 2.5tl and it had 181,000 miles before it blew .
Well this is my scenario:
We installed the engine: replaced the timing belt, water pump, front/rear main seals, camshaft seals, drive belts, radiator, upper/lower hose, thermostat, differential oil, transmission oil, and of course the water valve. It ran smooth but the check engine light was on along with the battery light.
I asked a mechanic that I worked with at Pepboys what could be the problem so he recommended swapping the throttle body and egr valve because those could be the main factors. So after replacing the alternator, i swapped the throttle body and egr valve (with gaskets) from the old engine onto the new engine. I noticed a significant change in MPG because before it was 14mpg. At this point i took it to SMOG and it failed. I noticed that on top of the intake manifold there is a plate with 6 bolts you can remove which is the egr chamber. It was full of carbon so i cleaned it but after taking it for a presmog it still failed. The dude said I was burning 5% CO2. In other words i'm running rich fuel. I dont know what to do at this point, is there anybody out there who can suggest anything????
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok where should I begin....
This March I was driving on the 110 Freeway to San Pedro, California when suddenly my vehicle st arted smoking. When I pulled over I shut off the car and popped the hood. To my suprise I saw motor oil splattered all over the engine. I tried to turn on the car but there was no compression. After towing it 30 miles to my mechanic's house we found out that the Water Valve was broken; as a result, all the coolant in my car escaped causing my engine to overheat and stall. It was so bad that the distributor cap melted. Well after looking all over the San Fernando Valley I found an engine with 150,000 miles for $400 of a 97 2.5tl. My car is a 1996 Acura 2.5tl and it had 181,000 miles before it blew .
Well this is my scenario:
We installed the engine: replaced the timing belt, water pump, front/rear main seals, camshaft seals, drive belts, radiator, upper/lower hose, thermostat, differential oil, transmission oil, and of course the water valve. It ran smooth but the check engine light was on along with the battery light.
I asked a mechanic that I worked with at Pepboys what could be the problem so he recommended swapping the throttle body and egr valve because those could be the main factors. So after replacing the alternator, i swapped the throttle body and egr valve (with gaskets) from the old engine onto the new engine. I noticed a significant change in MPG because before it was 14mpg. At this point i took it to SMOG and it failed. I noticed that on top of the intake manifold there is a plate with 6 bolts you can remove which is the egr chamber. It was full of carbon so i cleaned it but after taking it for a presmog it still failed. The dude said I was burning 5% CO2. In other words i'm running rich fuel. I dont know what to do at this point, is there anybody out there who can suggest anything????
09-06-2008, 06:20 PM
#2
remove the intake manifold and clean the egr port- its gets plugged really bad and you cant fully clean it from outside- based on my 01 and all other gen2 TL- gen 1 has to be similar situation
Also be aware of disconnection battery will cause a computer reset- and it will tell the smog machine its not ready to be tested,,,you have to drive it and retrain before it can confirm its running correctly
How do the spark plugs look? new cap rotor wires etc?
Also be aware of disconnection battery will cause a computer reset- and it will tell the smog machine its not ready to be tested,,,you have to drive it and retrain before it can confirm its running correctly
How do the spark plugs look? new cap rotor wires etc?
09-07-2008, 08:54 AM
#3
If Check Engine Light is on, get the codes w/ an OBD2 scanner or manually get the OBD1 codes by shorting the service check connector under the glove box (blue 2 wire male connector plugged into dummy holder). Short w/ jumper wire, turn keyswitch ON, and CEL will flash the codes; long flash(F)=10, pause=p, short flash(f)=1. Code 43 = FFFF-p-fff. Long pause between multiple codes.
Have you checked that O2 sensors are installed and connected?
Make sure fuel pressure.
EGR system usually only affects NOX. Your problem sounds like excess fuel; bad O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, PCV (check that it's hooked up, clean, and working).
good luck
Have you checked that O2 sensors are installed and connected?
Make sure fuel pressure.
EGR system usually only affects NOX. Your problem sounds like excess fuel; bad O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, PCV (check that it's hooked up, clean, and working).
good luck
09-08-2008, 06:24 PM
#4
10th Gear
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How are your spark plugs? Check your O2 sensors also. You said the check engine light came on? what codes did it have. That could lead you to the problem. Save yourself some money before just throwing parts at it.
09-08-2008, 08:16 PM
#5
Khmer Pride
he posted 3 times so start with this thread,lol
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