a week ago I had my oil changed at the dealer but today while having my P/S flush done I noticed a few drops hanging from the subframe. As most of you know my thing is Jeeps and the world of Acura is new to me.
From what Ive researched on the net these 3.2s dont ever leak or have probs.
Has anyone experienced this? is it residual oil from my oil change?
With my Jeeps if the oil isnt leaking then I know its out of oil.


P/S flush: Mechano put in a bottle of Wynns transflush turned the wheels a few minutes , then put the return line into a big jug and flushed 2 gallons of Trans fluid thru the system.
He then added one btl of Honda P/S fluid until it ran clear into the jug then filled and topped with new Honda fluid.
You would not beleive the crap that came out, grainy copper coloured "varnish" So he says.
Anyhow it feels great.

But Ive got that GD oil leak!!!!......

 

I had one on my 2.5, it was around the base of the oil filter housing, not the filter itself, but it was pretty cheap to have fixed.

 

I guess what I meant to ask was : Are 3.2s prone to oil leaks from the crank seal?

Doesnt look like its from the Filter housing Unsane.Thx for the headsup

 

I've got an oil leak and I have absolutely no clue where it is coming from.

 

I just got an oil leak (just broke 100k miles) and got a leak from the "o ring gasket" and/or the distributor cap? thats what the mechanic told me. this is my 1st oil leak

 

distributor? that's bizarre..

i have oil disappearing.. not sure where its going.. any tips? about a quart for 2k miles..
i have a theory and i want to see if its correct..
one time i overfilled.. i mean it was over the mark..
would that put extra pressure on the rings? so now its burning off..

it also started to disappear after i replaced the radiator, that was the time that i overfilled..

 

One Quart for every 2K miles is fine even for a brans spanking new engine. Most mfr will accept 1 every 1K as "Normal" I know, I know, not me either. But still how many miles do you have?

Over filling a little would not have done it.

 

TLBaller
Thats a common problem for many GM cars, Not sure about Acura/Hondas Oring is cheap. I cant see it taking more than an hour to fix.

DOes anyone have a diagram or Schematic of a 3.2s crankcase vent system???

 

The 2.5TL's are prone to leak oil from the distributor drive seal, an oring around the shaft where it inserts into the head to link w/ the camshaft. I just replaced mine this week on my 2.5TL and it stopped a fairly significant leak, perhaps 1/2-1 qt per month. If you do a search for "oil leak" you will find other posts on the 2.5TL distributor shaft oring problem. It's a difficult leak to trace because the oil appears on the underbody at numerous spots and tracing the drain path was difficult. After reading the posts on this forum, I used a mirror to finally confirm that oil was draining off the distributor heat shield. The oring gets stiff and noncompliant w/ age causing the leak.

It's fairly easy to replace the distributor oring, but does require removal of the battery and some wiring supports to gain access. A bit of oil (~1/4 pt) will run out of the opening when you remove the distributor, and onto the exhaust pipe, and ground. When you restart, you'll get a good amount of oil smoke and smell. Something to catch this oil on the ground will avoid staining your driveway. Be careful to insert the distributor key correctly into the camshaft. It is keyed to only fit one way, but due to location the fitup is a bit tricky. I used a mirror and fingers to confirm orientation of the camshaft and align the distributor before insertion. If you have correct alignment, the distributor will fully seat against the rear of the head. Don't try to force alignment! Distributor will slide in easy if w/ slight resistance from oring w/ correct alignment.

The 3.2TL does not have a distributor, but rather individual coils for each plug and solid state ignition timing. I would check valve covers, VTEC solenoid, and oil filter mounting base. Make sure fluid is not PS fluid, which turns dark and looks like oil after a while, but doesn't smell like oil.

Tracing an oil leak requires patience and a lift or ramps to elevate the car and allow a very careful inspection of the underbody. There are UV dyes you can add to the oil to assist tracing the source. You need a UV light to illuminate the potential leak sites and trace the source.

good luck

 

Not sure if this should be another thread but here goes........
My engine oil is fresh, approx 300 miles, but it seems to be smelling like gasoline or old oil. Its a deep gold color. I did pull my plugs and they seem to be old ,but light brown with carbon powder around the threads.
What Im asking is this: will a faulty injector or pressure regulator cause my oil to smell of gas? or is it just a "Acura" thing?
I should just say fuck it and drive the car.
But I cant its become an obession...

 

If you drive only short trips (< 15 min), fuel from cold start can accumulate in the oil giving a gassy smell to the oil. If your fuel consumption is normal, and you drive long trips (> 15 minutes continuous driving), I wouldn't be too concerned.

A leaking fuel injector can also cause excess fuel in the oil. When you shut down the engine, the fuel pressure would force fuel through the leaking injector. Gas might drain into a cylinder and get in the oil. If you have a lot of start/stops, this could be the problem. If you have to crank a long time to start on a cold engine, this further suggests a leaky injector. You would need to pull the injectors and watch after shutdown, or monitor how quickly fuel pressure drops. Fuel pressure should persist for quite some time w/o a leaking injector.

good luck

 

I had some major leaks on my 1996 Acura 2.5TL I had to add a quart a day and I have some miles 206000 miles. I took it to the mechanic and he told me that the leaks where coming from the oil filter housing seal, distrubutor housing seal and the camshaft housing and I got him to replace it not knowing if it was true and sure enough I have no leaks.