Another Fog light issue
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Another Fog light issue
My fogs stopped working.
I changed the bulbs, the fuse but still no result.
Two years ago, I did the H3C conversion and it worked until now without any problem.
So, I thought the bulbs were bad, I replaced both with H3C. That did not help. Than I changed out the fuse with a brand new one. No lights still.
I removed the H3C and put the original ones, still no light.
When I turn on the fog switch next to sun roof switch, I hear a click from the passenger side glove compartment area, which makes me think that the relay is working.
Where exactly is the fog relay located?
Every other light just works fine.
I am I missing any troubleshooting steps here?
I changed the bulbs, the fuse but still no result.
Two years ago, I did the H3C conversion and it worked until now without any problem.
So, I thought the bulbs were bad, I replaced both with H3C. That did not help. Than I changed out the fuse with a brand new one. No lights still.
I removed the H3C and put the original ones, still no light.
When I turn on the fog switch next to sun roof switch, I hear a click from the passenger side glove compartment area, which makes me think that the relay is working.
Where exactly is the fog relay located?
Every other light just works fine.
I am I missing any troubleshooting steps here?
#3
HA! Same story here. Did the H3C conversion and 2 weeks later no more foglights. While at the dealer for something else, I told them to check it out in depth since I couldn't find the problem. They charged me about 20$ to tell me that my bulbs were fried. I checked the bulbs again back home and obviously they were still in perfect condition. Since then I kinda gave up.
I have the clicking noise coming from the glove box when I press the button. If I remember well, that loud clicking noise wasn't there before they stopped working, so I would check that relay area first as well. But I think it's not very easily reachable.
Thanks for bringing the issue, and I'll let you know if I ever find something next time I go to my good old trustworthy mechanic by the end of march.
I have the clicking noise coming from the glove box when I press the button. If I remember well, that loud clicking noise wasn't there before they stopped working, so I would check that relay area first as well. But I think it's not very easily reachable.
Thanks for bringing the issue, and I'll let you know if I ever find something next time I go to my good old trustworthy mechanic by the end of march.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I know it's not the bulb.
I have been thru 2 sets of brand new bulbs.
KaMLuNg, I have to run to WalMart and buy a volt meter.
If there's no volts, what next?
I have been thru 2 sets of brand new bulbs.
KaMLuNg, I have to run to WalMart and buy a volt meter.
If there's no volts, what next?
#5
Maybe this is a dumb suggestion but not too long ago I panicked when mine wouldn't come on and I found out that last time I had my headlights on I had on the brights so the fogs therefore wouldn't come on. . . so even if your headlights are off but the brights were activated your fogs are disabled.
#6
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (5)
if there are volts, check your ground in the harness too... make sure that is clean... if good, then it is your bulb...
if there is no volts then you will need to check the juice to the fuse box first, if okay then to the switch (you will need to take the switch out of the dash) when you are looking at the back of the switch towards the pins... label them 1-10 from left to right... you need to check the continuity between pin 1&8 and also 4&7 when the switch is off.... then when the switch is on, check the continuity between 1&8, 4&7 and also 9&10.... if you don't have continuity between all of those pins, your switch is bad...
do that first...
if there is no volts then you will need to check the juice to the fuse box first, if okay then to the switch (you will need to take the switch out of the dash) when you are looking at the back of the switch towards the pins... label them 1-10 from left to right... you need to check the continuity between pin 1&8 and also 4&7 when the switch is off.... then when the switch is on, check the continuity between 1&8, 4&7 and also 9&10.... if you don't have continuity between all of those pins, your switch is bad...
do that first...
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
if there are volts, check your ground in the harness too... make sure that is clean... if good, then it is your bulb...
if there is no volts then you will need to check the juice to the fuse box first, if okay then to the switch (you will need to take the switch out of the dash) when you are looking at the back of the switch towards the pins... label them 1-10 from left to right... you need to check the continuity between pin 1&8 and also 4&7 when the switch is off.... then when the switch is on, check the continuity between 1&8, 4&7 and also 9&10.... if you don't have continuity between all of those pins, your switch is bad...
do that first...
if there is no volts then you will need to check the juice to the fuse box first, if okay then to the switch (you will need to take the switch out of the dash) when you are looking at the back of the switch towards the pins... label them 1-10 from left to right... you need to check the continuity between pin 1&8 and also 4&7 when the switch is off.... then when the switch is on, check the continuity between 1&8, 4&7 and also 9&10.... if you don't have continuity between all of those pins, your switch is bad...
do that first...
That will keep me busy this weekend.
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