ABS Question
ABS Question
I have a 1996 TL 2.5 - My ABS light was coming on every time I drove the car (usually after about 5 minutes). I pulled the fault codes and got 13 & 18 (if I'm correct, these mean high presseure leakage, and High pressure unit). After this, I bled the ABS unit to see if this would would solve the problem. Now, the ABS light is off when I drive the car for the first time in the day (or after it sits for a number of hours...), but if I start the car shortly after turning it off, the ABS light is continuously on. I now only get fault code 18. I'm planning on changing the o-ring on the accumulator.
Can anyone tell me if this is the logical next step, or if there is something else I should be looking at...THANKS
Can anyone tell me if this is the logical next step, or if there is something else I should be looking at...THANKS
Unless you see some sign of fluid leakage, this probably won't fix your problem. Do you hear the pump running before the ABS light illuminates?
Here's what shop manual says
"This diagnosis is performed when the pressure switch is OFF at the initial diagnosis. The pump motor is operated to turn the pressure switch ON, then the solenoid valve is momentarily activated. The ABS light is turned on if the pressure switch signal changes from ON to OFF."
The meaning is the pressure switch is either defective or pressure dropped too quickly when solenoid valve was blipped on, indicating the accumulator was not charged enough to maintain pressure. A leaking accumulator would would fine, as long as there was fluid available to charge the accumulator.
More likely a new accumulator or new modulator will be needed.
good luck
Here's what shop manual says
"This diagnosis is performed when the pressure switch is OFF at the initial diagnosis. The pump motor is operated to turn the pressure switch ON, then the solenoid valve is momentarily activated. The ABS light is turned on if the pressure switch signal changes from ON to OFF."
The meaning is the pressure switch is either defective or pressure dropped too quickly when solenoid valve was blipped on, indicating the accumulator was not charged enough to maintain pressure. A leaking accumulator would would fine, as long as there was fluid available to charge the accumulator.
More likely a new accumulator or new modulator will be needed.
good luck
Thanks-
The pump runs on start about 3-4 seconds. The ABS light stays off the first time I drive the car for the entire trip, and I don't hear the pump running while driving anymore (before I bled the system, I would hear the pump running occasionaly). If I start the car after I have driven it, the ABS light stays on and never goes off. (I need to buy a shop manual, what do you suggest). Is there a way to test the accumulator or modulator, or should I just buy the cheapest first...
Thanks for the help
The pump runs on start about 3-4 seconds. The ABS light stays off the first time I drive the car for the entire trip, and I don't hear the pump running while driving anymore (before I bled the system, I would hear the pump running occasionaly). If I start the car after I have driven it, the ABS light stays on and never goes off. (I need to buy a shop manual, what do you suggest). Is there a way to test the accumulator or modulator, or should I just buy the cheapest first...
Thanks for the help
My ABS light stays constantly on as well. My buddy acura technician read the code and said it's a rear ABS sensor. that kinda sucks, because that's not cheap, and Snow is coming soon! I might have to starting pumping until i can fork up the cash to get the replaced. i hate the ABS light, haha.
I just pulled my ABS fuses and then pulled the light out of the back of the cluster. I hated seeing the light and I hate ABS anyway, I feel like I have better control of the car without ABS. That seemed like a good fix for me, now I don't have to listen to it OR see the light!
Originally Posted by dpfelten
Thanks-
The pump runs on start about 3-4 seconds. The ABS light stays off the first time I drive the car for the entire trip, and I don't hear the pump running while driving anymore (before I bled the system, I would hear the pump running occasionaly). If I start the car after I have driven it, the ABS light stays on and never goes off. (I need to buy a shop manual, what do you suggest). Is there a way to test the accumulator or modulator, or should I just buy the cheapest first...
Thanks for the help
The pump runs on start about 3-4 seconds. The ABS light stays off the first time I drive the car for the entire trip, and I don't hear the pump running while driving anymore (before I bled the system, I would hear the pump running occasionaly). If I start the car after I have driven it, the ABS light stays on and never goes off. (I need to buy a shop manual, what do you suggest). Is there a way to test the accumulator or modulator, or should I just buy the cheapest first...
Thanks for the help
You might try bleeding the pressure from the modulator when the accumulator has charged and ABS light is off to see how much fluid will be bleed before pressure drops to zero. If almost no fluid, then you know the accumulator is bad. I would guess the accumulator should hold 2-3 oz of fluid.
You can find a used modulator using car-part.com. Find one w/i driving distance to allow return if the modulator doesn't work after installation. A quick check suggests $75-$150 bucks should find a good part.
good luck
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Originally Posted by Go90go
Lack of ABS smashed two of my cars, and ABS saved me once. Keep it.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
I'm assuming that the first one you speak of is when they guy behind you almost rear-ends you? Makes sense... And to be honest, the two cars that didn't have ABS would've crashed even if they had it... When it did save me, there was no one behind me.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
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