tb87

I bought the car a month or so ago and for a 16 year old car with 244k miles on it, it's in good shape and runs well overall.

A couple of weeks ago I replaced the blower motor so I can have some heat in it this winter. Maybe it's just a coincidence (though I doubt it) but I didn't have the problem before I replaced the blower motor. My first guess was that some wiring was either damaged when I replaced it or maybe I just didn't hook something back up correctly, but now that doesn't make any sense (you'll see why in the next paragraph).

The first time it happened, I was on my way to get groceries and shortly before I pulled into the parking lot, I noticed the radio shut off and the engine was acting sluggish but I could still give it gas. The power steering also seemed a little off but it was still there, and the ABS light came on. And I should probably also note that the SRS light has been on since I took out the dash to replace the blower motor. I didn't think much of it and went in to get my groceries, and when I returned, the car wouldn't start. I tried everything I could think of and nothing. It seemed to be getting plenty of power too. Being the dumbass I am, I left my phone at home and it was roughly 3am and I couldn't find a tow truck so I ended up walking home 3 miles carrying my groceries in the freezing rain. That was fun!

I managed to get a tow truck a few hours later, and the next day I tried to jumpstart it, thinking maybe it was just the battery for some odd reason, and it started. The previous owner said the battery was old and couldn't hold a charge so I thought maybe the headlights+windshield wipers+radio wore down the battery just enough to not start at the store. So I got a new battery and everything seemed fine until a few days ago.

A few days ago, the same thing happened. I didn't recognize it right away but I think the problem was triggered when I braked at the bottom of a hill, and maybe when going into the parking lot the first time something was shaken up to trigger it then. Luckily I wasn't far from home and was able to drive it there. The same symptoms were present: sluggish engine (maybe only in 1 gear?), speedometer stopped working, sub-par power steering, no radio, no clock, and ABS light was on. I could be mistaken but I think the brakes also seemed to not work as well.

I tried restarting the car immediately after pulling into my driveway and experienced the same issue I had at the store. All the lights and radio would turn on, everything had power, but nothing would start. But just today, I went out to try to start it and it started up immediately. I hadn't touched it since I pulled it into the driveway.

I should also mention that I have to start the car in neutral, and put something in the slot next to the shifter to get it out of park. I read a few other posts on here where it might be the ignition switch but how would that explain the car shutting off (or going into emergency mode or something) while I'm driving it?

Thanks for your help!

main70072

Have you check your charging system for proper operation?

tb87

I took the car to Advanced Auto and got them to check my alternator, and their tool said the alternator had an open diode... so I replaced the alternator (and the belts while I was at it).

It worked just fine right after (2 nights ago)... but yesterday I tried to drive it and it started up immediately... but as soon as I tried to reverse out of my driveway the engine stopped. It didn't shut off like it did before I replaced the alternator, so now I'm thinking something else is wrong with it.

I tried to start it back up and it just kept trying to turn over but would never fully start. This wore down the battery a bit so I jumpstarted it again and finally got it to start, but it idled very rough at first, shaking the car pretty hard at under 1k rpm. It eventually smoothed out so I gave it some gas in neutral to see how it would react and the check engine light came on.

My first guess is that I'm just really unlucky and in addition to having a bad alternator, I need to replace the spark plugs. I really hope that's all I have left to fix!

Anyone have any clue as to what the problem is? Or is are there steps I can take to determine the exact issue(s)?

tb87

Well, I just took the car for a spin around the block. It started up immediately and ran without any hitches. After I got home I shut it off and started it again like 5 times just to be sure. And then I drove it a few miles. Everything seems to be okay other than the check engine light... still on. The SRS light is on but I'm pretty sure that's just from when I removed the dash to replace the blower motor. I read I can reset that by jumping a couple of pins on a cable under the steering wheel.

I should also mention that I noticed a hole in the large, kinda ribbed L-shaped hose for the air filter when I was replacing the alternator. No idea if that was there before or if I caused it when taking the alternator out. I wrapped some tape around it for the time being just in case, although I'm not sure how air tight it is. Could that cause the problem(s) with the engine?

And I would guess that the car doesn't use the refrigerant for anything other than A/C, which isn't needed until summer, so I still haven't put new refrigerant in from when I replaced the blower motor. Is it possible this is an issue?

Thank you for your time!!

main70072

Take your car to Autozone for them to retrieve the CEL code(s). The hole in the intake tube could be the reason for rough idling. Refrigerant shouldn't have anything to do with your problem.

KrayzieDxC

are yours gears stuck on park. and it seem like you been puting it in neutral to get starting. that sounds like Breakswitch.

tb87

As per main70072's instructions, I got the CEL codes and my 5th cylinder was misfiring, so I replaced all the spark plugs and wires and the Check Engine light turned off immediately. Everything was great again, until a couple of days ago.

Now the battery light is on. It came on in the middle of driving the other day but everything seems to be working fine. Although I haven't driven it since then so I'll actually go check it right now...

Wowwww... one of the pulleys is really loose. It's the one that shares the belt with the alternator. My father said it looks like it's the water pump pulley?

Why does it seem like every time I fix one thing, something else breaks...

Anyone know what would cause the pulley to get so loose? And is there an easy fix or will the whole thing need to be replaced?

Also, I do have to put it in neutral to get it to start 9 times out of 10, KrayzieDxC. What do you recommend I do to fix that?

Thanks again for your time!

meazz1

Check your main relay under driver's side dash. Similar problem I had and it ended up to be a defective "main relay" as per the dealer. They had my car for over a week to duplicate the problem. The service guy was nice and he game me a 2011 TL as loaner. I did not mind them keeping my car for a week .

vp1se

Had that happen to me on the I-405- cruis'in @ 70 mph and then all of a sudden eng shut down (no throttle reponse-can't recall any warning lights illuminated-more concerned with getting out of traffic)- coasted to shoulder- stopped/ placed in park/turn ign off- then restarted with no issues. R/R'd distrib/rotor a couple months later-(was completely trashed/worn- I figured that this might have been the culprit with loss of conductivity for that split second.

Natske

IF you keep up with tune ups these cars last forever, However automobiles are a business and parts is where the money is at. If you are not happy with how the car is working your should assess it and figure out if its worth your while to fix. The TL is a great car but any car that is great can be bad for someone that does not know how to do the work.