96 2.5L rough idle...?

Old Jul 11, 2008 | 08:30 AM
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96 2.5L rough idle...?

Hey guys and thanks for all the input on the forum. I will just get it out in the open that a few years ago, when I first got my TL, I had one post and it was an asshole post...so it was a long time ago and I'm sorry. However...

I'm wondering if anyone is having a problem with rough idle in the 2.5. Sometimes I'll be sitting at a light and the engine will be shaking and feeling like it will putter out. But other times it feels fine. On ocassion, I will have the a/c running and the eingine idleing smooth, but when the compressor cycles off, the engine boggs down again.

Has anyone heard of something like this? I have tried different grades and brands of gas and nothing changes (not that it would, but I have tried) and I cannot seem to find any consistencies with the problem.
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 11:45 PM
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there are few of us who have that problem, but no solutions have been found.
the most recent suggestion was to clean throttle body bypass passages.
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 07:16 AM
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OK, so on Friday I replaced the spark plugs (and found that my spark plug tube seals are leaking somewhat profusely) and air filter. I did not clean the throttle body yet as I am waiting to get a whole BG system flush.

On the way home, the car drove great. I thought the plugs fixed it and that everything was cool. However, I had the car running in park for a minute or two and when I got back in the car the check engine light was blinking, then got solid and stayed on. The car runs the same as it did before...rough idle at times and all but now the check engine light is on too.

I will update everyone with what happens after the BG system flush (including cleaning the throttle body) and v/c gasket replacement. I think the hood label states that the idle shoud be 750 rpm's but when my engine starts doing this whole thing, it is idling under 500.

That's all for now. Thanks for the reply.
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Clean the idle air control valve, idle air bypass passage, and clean both sides of throttle plate and bore around throttle plate. Use throttle body cleaner and paper towel to clean up. Avoid wetting the solenoid winding which may damage the solenoid driver.

good luck
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 03:22 PM
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Red face

Good news...tech looked at it today. The spark plug tubes were dry (not leaking fast enough to cause a big problem). But, after replacing the v/c gasket set, it was still misfiring (cylinder 1).

Tech unplugged the ignition wire on cyl 1 and the friggin distributor cap was arching over to the shield behind it!

Turns out, I need a distributor cap and while we're in there I'll replace the rotor.

I will update everyone after the fix.
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 12:00 AM
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From: BroomField Colorado
Hi im new to the forum my name is justin i own a 1998 3.2L Acura TL. I have this exact same problem and i have put in premium fuil in it. PLEASE let me know if the fix works as i want the problem gone. ty
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 07:17 AM
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Is your check engine light coming on? Mine is...and cyl 1 is the culprit. If your light is on for misfire, find out what cylinder and unplug the sparg plug boot and see what happens. i'll post back later today. Part coming in this morning.
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Old Jul 17, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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thank you very much this is so agravating lol. It sucks so much performance off the line. I mean for god sakes my brothers stupid little camry beat me off the line. i caught up to him but still that damn putter lol. is there an easy way to find out wich one is misfiring or would i be best just taking it in somewhere
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 05:46 AM
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OK, so the distributor cap fixed the check engine light, but after the car warms up, it still idles rough. When the a/c is on, it runs fine, but as soon as the a/c compressor cuts off it boggs down again. I don't get it. I suppose I will live with it until I flush out all the intake bypasses and injectin system.

Not a total fix for now.

TippindaGrape: There may be an easy way to find out but I don't know enough about the car to tell you. I wish I was back home in Charlotte b/c there are a couple great Honda/Acura shops there. I would recommend going to a good mechanic so you don't have to bother buying Advil to cure the headache.
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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i called my local acura dealership there gonna take it in an find wtf is goin on with it. Mine keeps doing it, then not doing it. thanks m8, lol hopefully one say we will have a answer on whats goin on :P
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 11:04 AM
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could it be the harmonic balancer?
mine has cracks in the rubber. is there a good way to inspect it?

texas, when yours was slipping, what was the mileage on the car? has anyone else had to replace theirs?

my engine vibrates all the time, but i only feel it in the cabin when i am in gear..
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Old Jul 21, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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Check engine light is back on. Swapped spark plugs around...no fix. Checked elec connection at injectors...OK. swapped #1 and #2 injector...same misfire on #1. Checked compression...OK. Swapped #1 and #3 injector...same misfire on #1. The code is 0301 by the way. This is aggravating to say the least.
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Old Jul 21, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Have you changed spark plug wires recently?
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Old Jul 21, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pi1996
could it be the harmonic balancer?
mine has cracks in the rubber. is there a good way to inspect it?

texas, when yours was slipping, what was the mileage on the car? has anyone else had to replace theirs?

my engine vibrates all the time, but i only feel it in the cabin when i am in gear..
Mileage was probably about 120-130K miles.

Only way to inspect is to mark inner and outer parts w/ a radial line and watch to see if the radial line separates circumferentially, indicating slippage.

good luck
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hendricknick
Check engine light is back on. Swapped spark plugs around...no fix. Checked elec connection at injectors...OK. swapped #1 and #2 injector...same misfire on #1. Checked compression...OK. Swapped #1 and #3 injector...same misfire on #1. The code is 0301 by the way. This is aggravating to say the least.
Suggest using a timing light on #1 and see if you're getting a timing light flash every time. If not, the spark is weak or missing. Why? Bad spark plug, bad wire, bad distributor cap, or bad rotor. Coil and ignitor are common to all cylinders so they're out as the problem.

If timing light flash is OK, then misfire is due to too lean a mixture to the cylinder (intake manifold leak). This assumes fuel injector is firing and your report of cylinder compression is correct. A burnt valve will cause a dead miss on affected cylinder.

good luck
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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PROBLEM SOLVED!

THE FREAKIN INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET!!!

Here's the scoop. A buddy and I replaced the gasket at home but when we were done (4 hours later...this job is a real pain in the ass without the right tools) there was a significant coolant leak and one of the injector seals was split open and pouring out fuel. So, I had to have the car towed into my work (a Nissan dealership).

I have learned a valuable lesson after all this...there are the right people for the right jobs, much like having the right tool for a job. My car needed a real tech, and I am not even close to a tech!

I wish I would have had it worked on here at work from the start. I would have much less of a headache.

And a last little funny note: Just after cleaning off my battery terminals with BRAKE CLEAN (the car didn't want to start...he was trying to jump it) he put the positive terminal on from the jumper and it sparked a fire under the hood! He tried to blow it out, another guy went to grab a cup of water (for an electrical fire?) and then he finally just grabbed the fire extinguisher and finished it off. It was entertaining to say the least.
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