1996 2.5 TL started burning oil after lifter adjust
#1
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1996 2.5 TL started burning oil after lifter adjust
Hey guys, kinda new here. Here's my problem. I have a 1996 acura 2.5 TL with 157,000 miles on it. I did a lifter adjustment a few days ago because they were ticking and now Im burning oil out of the exhaust. I never noticed it before I did the lifter adjustment. It dosen't do it all the time, only when I let it idle for about a minute and rev it up. Then the cloud rolls. If it were rings it would smoke all the time right? The only thing I can come up with is that all the build up on the valve stems pushed down into the valve seals and damaged them enough to let the oil pass the seals. I thought I would ask and see if anyone might know what is causing this before I pull the head. Also, since I am pulling the head and taking it to the machine shop in a few days, what do you think of a port and polish? Would it be worth the extra money? Will I gain very much horsepower? Any help at all is very much appreciated. I just don't want to pull the head and find out that something else is causing the problem.
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Ehh...ya live and ya learn. Don't put synthetic oil in a car that hasn't had it in its entire life. Got it at 155K and thought that would be the best way. Little did I know it was a common things for valve seals to leak on certain Hondas and Acuras. Conventional oil will take care of it until I can get the for sale sign in and and get it gone. Sorry guys but I think I'm gonna switch to a honda. Nicer, Cleaner, more upgrades (supercharger sounds good) and newer. Less miles too.
#3
'13 Hyundai Sonata
I have the same issue as you brown.
I have decided that I'm not going to bother fixing it because IMO it isn't worth it. I have had my car for 3 years and it has been awesome to me but it is time to let it go.
I had my car checked and my mechanic said that it was either the o-rings or the value guides.
Either way he said that he wouldn't know more until he broke the engine down. That also means lots of $$$ which I do not want to spend. So in the end I parted out the JDM parts and have them for sale (check it out everyone) and get a newer car.
I have decided that I'm not going to bother fixing it because IMO it isn't worth it. I have had my car for 3 years and it has been awesome to me but it is time to let it go.
I had my car checked and my mechanic said that it was either the o-rings or the value guides.
Either way he said that he wouldn't know more until he broke the engine down. That also means lots of $$$ which I do not want to spend. So in the end I parted out the JDM parts and have them for sale (check it out everyone) and get a newer car.
#4
It is possible to replace the valve stem seals w/o removing the cylinder head. It requires use of air pressure to support the valve while you disassemble the valve retainer, spring, etc to access, remove, replace the stem seal. A good should should know how to do this. Labor should be substantially less than removing/rebuilding head, and reinstalling.
good luck
good luck
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I'm confused about what to do. I already have a non returnable Gates timing belt kit so I might as well put it on. I can either put the belt and water pump, seals and all the other good stuff and use that as a selling point. Or I could pull the head and fix it for about $300 in parts and head work. I don't want to spend more money than its worth. I bought it for $2500 and wouldnt be against selling it for $2500 right now (without fixing the oil problem).
On a side note: Does anyone know if the Honda 3.0 has issues like this? found one that I am seriously considering buying and I don't want to be stuck with the same thing.
On a side note: Does anyone know if the Honda 3.0 has issues like this? found one that I am seriously considering buying and I don't want to be stuck with the same thing.
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#8
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I decided not to sell the car so now I have the issue at hand of fixing the oil burning issue. It got waay worse. Thing is, I really dont see any oil being lost. Im also not losing coolant but Im positive its valve seals now so Im just gonna pull the head and rebuild it. I got into it a little bit when I adjusted the valves again and those seals dont look too good. Gonna put Viton valve seals in it. Especially since I gave it a good look and realized how easy it is to get the head off compared to some of the heads I've pulled on other cars. this one is like a walk in the park.
#9
I agree head removal should be easy. Be sure to have the head leak checked, valves reseated/resealed/adjusted, and head shaved to perfect flatness.
Let us know how it goes.
good luck
Let us know how it goes.
good luck
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