..Want more power?
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..Want more power?
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Because the aftermarket support is so slim for these cars, why not borrow parts and/or get custom work done?![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
First off, for you 3.2L owner, you can swap the intake manifold from the Type II engine of the Acura Legend. I personally think this is the best mod for our Type I engine in terms of cost vs. benefit. Its for those who are not rich like KenTL1997 to swap the whole Type II head but still wants to increase a good amount of power.
Why swap the intake manifold? The intake runner is bigger and the manifold is factory ported from Honda. Take a look (type I on left, Type II on right)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/GSteg/DSC02268.jpg)
Cost of the manifold can be anywhere from $100 through $300 used. You'll have no problem finding them for under $200 if you look around. In my case, I found mine for $95 shipped, but thats a deal that doesn't run too often.
You'll need to get new intake manifold gaskets though ($70 shipped). Don't make the mistake like I did because it only cost me more time in the end.
Spend a couple hundred ($500+ ?) more and get the whole Type II heads![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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Next up is getting your throttle body bored out. KMS does boring for $250 plus shipping I believe, but some of you know that there is a place called MaxBore (www.maxbore.com) that will do yours for only $150 shipped. I was quoted that much because he said the V6 TB is harder to do, but I'm sure you can get him to do it for the normal $100 shipped since I doubt he looked at the V6 TB before.
2.5L guys can probably do this too.
Looking at the pictures and feedbacks, this guy does great work. He even cleans the TB for you. The butterfly will be made to accomodate the new bore size.
Best of all, it usually takes him one day to get the job done. He receives it, bores/clean it and send it back the next day.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm still trying to find out more things we can do to the Type I engines. If any of you guys have more ideas, post them here!
Even list your bayou chip experience of whatever products you have. I'm sure this will benefit everyone (at least the 3.2L guys)
Because the aftermarket support is so slim for these cars, why not borrow parts and/or get custom work done?
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
First off, for you 3.2L owner, you can swap the intake manifold from the Type II engine of the Acura Legend. I personally think this is the best mod for our Type I engine in terms of cost vs. benefit. Its for those who are not rich like KenTL1997 to swap the whole Type II head but still wants to increase a good amount of power.
Why swap the intake manifold? The intake runner is bigger and the manifold is factory ported from Honda. Take a look (type I on left, Type II on right)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/GSteg/DSC02268.jpg)
Cost of the manifold can be anywhere from $100 through $300 used. You'll have no problem finding them for under $200 if you look around. In my case, I found mine for $95 shipped, but thats a deal that doesn't run too often.
![Wish](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wish.gif)
Spend a couple hundred ($500+ ?) more and get the whole Type II heads
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next up is getting your throttle body bored out. KMS does boring for $250 plus shipping I believe, but some of you know that there is a place called MaxBore (www.maxbore.com) that will do yours for only $150 shipped. I was quoted that much because he said the V6 TB is harder to do, but I'm sure you can get him to do it for the normal $100 shipped since I doubt he looked at the V6 TB before.
2.5L guys can probably do this too.
Looking at the pictures and feedbacks, this guy does great work. He even cleans the TB for you. The butterfly will be made to accomodate the new bore size.
Best of all, it usually takes him one day to get the job done. He receives it, bores/clean it and send it back the next day.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm still trying to find out more things we can do to the Type I engines. If any of you guys have more ideas, post them here!
Even list your bayou chip experience of whatever products you have. I'm sure this will benefit everyone (at least the 3.2L guys)
#2
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Nice...
The intake manifold is where it really counts, past 4000 rpms its a different car being able to breath significantly better.
One addition to your suggestions would be a free flowing exhaust
The intake manifold is where it really counts, past 4000 rpms its a different car being able to breath significantly better.
One addition to your suggestions would be a free flowing exhaust
#3
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hey thanks im going to look for that manafold right now, hey could you check out www.turbonator.com and tell me what you think about one of those for our engine?
And what do you mean by a free flowing exhuast ken, no cat?
And what do you mean by a free flowing exhuast ken, no cat?
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Turbonator is a waste of money. It wont do anything at all.
As for the free flowing exhaust, no cat is ideal but you can get others such as a Remus that work quite well.
As for the free flowing exhaust, no cat is ideal but you can get others such as a Remus that work quite well.
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Originally Posted by yogibearlily
hey ken where can i look at a remus?, i looked on autopartswarehouse.com and they only have them for legends in 96
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#8
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Get a universal remus muffler and weld it to your existing pipe.
or hell, just spend the extra buck and make a catback system..
my next project
or hell, just spend the extra buck and make a catback system..
my next project
![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#9
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You're not going to see any advantage in swapping out your muffler alone unless your existing one is heavily restrictive, which I doubt is the case. You have to open the entire system to see any real advantages. Porting a tb is all well and good, but does nothing if the intake isn't opened up and a bigger exhaust added.
The best bang for the buck is by far a turbo. For the cost of headwork, an intake, header(s), high flow cat and full catback which would realistically net you about 15-30 hp throughout the powerband, you could have an intercooled turbo setup that nets well over 100 hp at a very safe and conservative boost level (6-8 lbs). I've already started looking into it for my 2.5. I need to get a helms first though so I can figure out all the specs.
The best bang for the buck is by far a turbo. For the cost of headwork, an intake, header(s), high flow cat and full catback which would realistically net you about 15-30 hp throughout the powerband, you could have an intercooled turbo setup that nets well over 100 hp at a very safe and conservative boost level (6-8 lbs). I've already started looking into it for my 2.5. I need to get a helms first though so I can figure out all the specs.
#10
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Originally Posted by Matt97TL2.5
You're not going to see any advantage in swapping out your muffler alone unless your existing one is heavily restrictive, which I doubt is the case. You have to open the entire system to see any real advantages. Porting a tb is all well and good, but does nothing if the intake isn't opened up and a bigger exhaust added.
The best bang for the buck is by far a turbo. For the cost of headwork, an intake, header(s), high flow cat and full catback which would realistically net you about 15-30 hp throughout the powerband, you could have an intercooled turbo setup that nets well over 100 hp at a very safe and conservative boost level (6-8 lbs). I've already started looking into it for my 2.5. I need to get a helms first though so I can figure out all the specs.
The best bang for the buck is by far a turbo. For the cost of headwork, an intake, header(s), high flow cat and full catback which would realistically net you about 15-30 hp throughout the powerband, you could have an intercooled turbo setup that nets well over 100 hp at a very safe and conservative boost level (6-8 lbs). I've already started looking into it for my 2.5. I need to get a helms first though so I can figure out all the specs.
#12
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I found this. Is this the guy you're referring to?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...8&page=1&pp=25
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...8&page=1&pp=25
#13
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Originally Posted by Matt97TL2.5
I found this. Is this the guy you're referring to?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...8&page=1&pp=25
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...8&page=1&pp=25
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#14
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Originally Posted by Ken1997TL
Nice...
The intake manifold is where it really counts, past 4000 rpms its a different car being able to breath significantly better.
One addition to your suggestions would be a free flowing exhaust
The intake manifold is where it really counts, past 4000 rpms its a different car being able to breath significantly better.
One addition to your suggestions would be a free flowing exhaust
Speaking of this Ken, I meant to ask you. While I still haven't yet got the computer swapped, I have noticed one strange thing that should still be happening I would think. I don't get the sound/performance change I used to at 4000 RPM when the second Intake Manifold butterflies opened. The car also feels really sluggish at low RPM. The cutover just doesn't seem to be happening, and because of the low RPM power loss I would think if anything the butterflie might be stuck OPEN... Just wondering if you noticed this as well, or if maybe something is wrong with the vacuum actuators or something. Let me know man, thanks. (Sorry for hijacking the thread!)
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Originally Posted by Cornflake
Speaking of this Ken, I meant to ask you. While I still haven't yet got the computer swapped, I have noticed one strange thing that should still be happening I would think. I don't get the sound/performance change I used to at 4000 RPM when the second Intake Manifold butterflies opened. The car also feels really sluggish at low RPM. The cutover just doesn't seem to be happening, and because of the low RPM power loss I would think if anything the butterflie might be stuck OPEN... Just wondering if you noticed this as well, or if maybe something is wrong with the vacuum actuators or something. Let me know man, thanks. (Sorry for hijacking the thread!)
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
Thats why low RPM power sucks..
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#16
Are you guys talking about VIS... aka Variable Induction System, where at higher RPM's the second butterfly opens up to suck more air... My buddy is always bragging about it in his Legend... Do our 3.2's have it? I do notice a slight change in the pitch when I hit high RPM's, more noticably with the resonator removed. Acuras never fail to impress me, seems like every day I find out about some new feature our cars have that you wont find in any domestic car!
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Originally Posted by ljmushock
Are you guys talking about VIS... aka Variable Induction System, where at higher RPM's the second butterfly opens up to suck more air... My buddy is always bragging about it in his Legend... Do our 3.2's have it? I do notice a slight change in the pitch when I hit high RPM's, more noticably with the resonator removed. Acuras never fail to impress me, seems like every day I find out about some new feature our cars have that you wont find in any domestic car!
your engine is identical to the Legend's non-Type II engine. All C32A have VIS
#18
![Talking](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif)
Originally Posted by GSteg
your engine is identical to the Legend's non-Type II engine. All C32A have VIS
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You'll want to get (6) new fuel injector o-rings and o-rings for the water pipe.
As far as any differences, it is a direct bolt-on. Throttle body, water pipe, manifold bolt pattern, VIS, they are all the same. The only difference as far as modification is the absense of the Air Suction Valve. I am not sure if it is on the 3.2TL, but for the Type I legends, they have what is known as the PAIR system You'll need to bypass that, which is easy.
Once you take out that PAIR system, you're left with one vaccum hose open, and a pipe that leads to the exhaust.
The vaccum hose you can just block off with a cap. In my case, I just use electrical tape and sealed it. For the exhaust pipe, you'll want to get a new gasket for it, and then get a thick sheet of metal and basically just bolt it onto the pipe so exhaust won't leak out.
CAI, throttle body bore, and the manifold should gain you at least 15whp.
As far as any differences, it is a direct bolt-on. Throttle body, water pipe, manifold bolt pattern, VIS, they are all the same. The only difference as far as modification is the absense of the Air Suction Valve. I am not sure if it is on the 3.2TL, but for the Type I legends, they have what is known as the PAIR system You'll need to bypass that, which is easy.
Once you take out that PAIR system, you're left with one vaccum hose open, and a pipe that leads to the exhaust.
The vaccum hose you can just block off with a cap. In my case, I just use electrical tape and sealed it. For the exhaust pipe, you'll want to get a new gasket for it, and then get a thick sheet of metal and basically just bolt it onto the pipe so exhaust won't leak out.
CAI, throttle body bore, and the manifold should gain you at least 15whp.
#20
Originally Posted by GSteg
You'll want to get (6) new fuel injector o-rings and o-rings for the water pipe.
As far as any differences, it is a direct bolt-on. Throttle body, water pipe, manifold bolt pattern, VIS, they are all the same. The only difference as far as modification is the absense of the Air Suction Valve. I am not sure if it is on the 3.2TL, but for the Type I legends, they have what is known as the PAIR system You'll need to bypass that, which is easy.
Once you take out that PAIR system, you're left with one vaccum hose open, and a pipe that leads to the exhaust.
The vaccum hose you can just block off with a cap. In my case, I just use electrical tape and sealed it. For the exhaust pipe, you'll want to get a new gasket for it, and then get a thick sheet of metal and basically just bolt it onto the pipe so exhaust won't leak out.
CAI, throttle body bore, and the manifold should gain you at least 15whp.
As far as any differences, it is a direct bolt-on. Throttle body, water pipe, manifold bolt pattern, VIS, they are all the same. The only difference as far as modification is the absense of the Air Suction Valve. I am not sure if it is on the 3.2TL, but for the Type I legends, they have what is known as the PAIR system You'll need to bypass that, which is easy.
Once you take out that PAIR system, you're left with one vaccum hose open, and a pipe that leads to the exhaust.
The vaccum hose you can just block off with a cap. In my case, I just use electrical tape and sealed it. For the exhaust pipe, you'll want to get a new gasket for it, and then get a thick sheet of metal and basically just bolt it onto the pipe so exhaust won't leak out.
CAI, throttle body bore, and the manifold should gain you at least 15whp.
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