Car feels little quicker to me all the time. BUT its more fun at 5K. I keep it in D3 in city all the time, shift into D4 if needed/40+MPH. Car sounds totally different than before.

 

There wasn't much change in the lower RPM range, but after 5000RPMs the motor starts to pull pretty hard to redline. Considering there wasn't much after 5500 originally, that's a big improvement.

Yes and no. After spraying it and scrubbing, the carb cleaner settled into the runners but every once in awhile we poured everything out and rinsed it.

You definitely need the injector seals. I bought a full kit since I have to change the entire manifold, and I wanted to cover my bases. Anyhow, after installation, turn the key to II to check for leaks, then run the car for a few seconds and check for leaks again. If one of the seals was hardened as you say, then you should replace them all.

~Cheers~

 

The cleaned each part of the manifold off the car. For the intake ports into the heads, I recommend sticking paper towels at the bottom and spraying carb cleaner into them and wiping in an upwards motion. When you're finished, remove the paper towels and stick a vacuum fitting into there to clean it out.

for the first picture, you might also need the gasket that goes in between the throttle body and the intake manifold.

In the second picture, you don't need 9, just don't remove it. It can be cleaned when the pipe and EGR valve itself comes off.

For the third picture, yea, they're insulators. The part that sits at the bottom of the stack is the hard one, the one right above is about the same size and squishy. The hard one is what the TL does not have from factory. You really don't need to buy new hard insulators if you got all 6 of them came with the legend manifold.

Forget the air suction pipe. luckily, TLs don't have them.

 

and cleaning out the intake manifold itself when it's off the car, I use a wire brush from home depot and shoved it onto my drill and go at the intake manifold. The lower sections don't require much more than a git of scraping with a razor blade and such will remove everything. The top section is a bit harder, its where the drill came in handy. When I cleaned an intake manifold out, I took like 3 days once. lol it was spotless. For the egr pipe, fill it with carb cleaner and use a wire coat hanger and poke at it for a while until everything comes out clean.

 

that's #9 in the pic or do you mean the vertical gasket that should go near where #16 is?

I only got one seal ring and 4 insulators with the manifold. Going to order 6 new seal rings, 6 new o-rings, and 6 new cushion rings and 2 more insulators, almost $50 in rings alone!

 

Yea, those bitches are expensive.

 

It's why I bought an entire kit to cover my bases, haha.

~Cheers~

 

that would be #9 in the pic. You need everything else you listed earlier.

Yea, those ring's aren't cheap, but then again, they're very important.

 

I didnt know the type 2 could go in the TL but now that i do im gettin that swap and turnin stick.

 

Turning stick? As in converting to manual? Let us know of the progress when you start!

~Cheers~

 

 

I'm still waiting on someone to convert to a 5MT.

 

it would be the 6 speed type 2 already been looking for the transmission

 

All I can say is Good Luck with the build and keep us posted...

 

 

keep us posted on how u make out with converting the ECU and making it run...

 

^

~Cheers~

 

Any updates yet, undyroos??

 

 

i got the rest of the misc gaskets and o-rings today (thanks for the main gaskets ken!). bought some carb cleaner and coolant and gonna get started tomorrow!

do you know how much coolant you lost when you swapped IMs? i've never bled the coolant before so i'll be learning as i go. any other tips before i got tearing into my car? are you sure about just putting on the gaskets dry?

 

You really don't lose much coolant, but if you haven't flushed it recently, just flush the rest of it out. And yea, just put the gaskets on dry and be sure to torque them to spec. be ready to use a lot of carb cleaner. Throw some brake cleaner into that equation too.

Here are the instructions for bleeding coolant: http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/883766-post7.html

 

an intake air temp sensor came attached to my IM. i couldn't get it off without stripping the screw heads so i left it on while i was cleaning it. i tried to keep it relatively dry but it did get wet at times. do you think it is still good? it seems fairly robust. i've never heard of air temp sensors going bad...

keep it or slot the heads and swap it out with the TL IAT sensor?

 

it doesn't really matter. I used a set of vice grips to remove the screws because i wanted to clean it out better, but either way is fine. The screws came out fine btw, I was able to reuse them.

 

any tips on removing those small ass vacuum hoses without destroying them? can't really twist them off, they're too close to one another. there's two in the back of the IM and 2 in front near the front of the IM...

its taken me more time to get all the connector unplugged and hoses off than anything else...

 

nm, got them off, working on getting the egr valve and pipe off now, no room back there whatseoever

 

ok everything is unbolted and the IM is loose. now i got to figure out how the hell to lift it straight up by myself and keep wires and hose out of the way at the same time...took me about 5 hrs to get to this point...i'm slow...

 

nm, got the IM out, just had to straddle the engine bay and pull straight up...

the egr pipe was pretty clean, intake passages not too bad either, pics will be up after i clean the plenums...

 

 

finished cleaning the IM, bolted it up and dropped it back in when i realized i left the rags in the intake passages

pulled it back out, yanked out the rags and reinstalled as much as i could before i ran out of light. it is a HUGE pain in the ass to reinstall the EGR pipe. i forgot to get an air suction gasket so i had to reuse the old one. just have to reinstall the intake and bleed the coolant and should be good to go. also did the throttle body coolant bypass mod.

while i was at it, i also wasted a bunch of time try to get the legend strut bar to fit but i could not install it in time. tmnhs81, how did you install your bar, it looks like you used the stock holes in the mounting brackets...did you have to do any drilling?

 

Holes are already in the firewall and I didn't drill any holes in the brackets. I had to relocate all the brackets to hold the vacuum lines a little to the right and use those holes to hold brackets for the bar.

 

i tried that but the mounting bracket didn't meet the strut bar mount, they were close but not close enough. i'll give it another try tomorrow and see what happens.

 

Here. look at the third pic if that gives an idea where to put the mounting bracket at...

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-photograph-gallery-102/some-dirty-ones-707157/

Oh and make sure you relocate that sensor that gets in the way, if you don't and it keeps hitting the bar it will annoy the crap outa you...

 

just be carefull. that top end power is addicting...:wink:

from today...



few days ago...

 

lets see the mpg for that!

 

Last tank was worst so far in two years of my ownership I guess. 15 fuckin' MPG's... but it was fun though, just gotta be careful. My sis drives this car mostly, so she doesn't push it to the limit..

 

And she don't know about type II IM so...:wink:

 

Heh that's a cool toy - what is that exactly? and what does fWT mean?

 

it's a scan gauge II, an OBDII reader/realtime gauge monitor. fWT=water temp in F.

 

finished with the intake swap yet? Let's see some pictures! and go test it out

 

finished installing everything right before it started to rain.

as soon as i got to about 3000 rpms, i got a CEL, p0330. got on it again and got another CEL, p0325. apparently both of my knock sensors went out. very common problem on the legend forums if you changed your head gasket or swapped IMs. apparently the sensors and or wiring gets very fragile from the hot and cold cycles. i knew that going in and was very careful not to touch the sensors when i took the IM out but when i just looked at the wiring harness holder, it just about crumbled in my fingers. the wiring harness is about $57, the harness holder is about $26 and the sensors are about $123 each. i couldn't believe i had to change them out and take the IM out AGAIN. not something i was looking forward to do in addition to shelling out over $300 just for the parts.

i couldn't believe both sensors went out at the same time since i didn't even touch them so i was blaming it on the crumbling wiring harness. i went back out to the car just to check it out where the knock sensor plug was and it turned out i never plugged it in all the way! it was just sitting onto of the other end and i clicked it in. cleared the CELs with my handy scan gauge and all was good.

i only go the car up to 5000 rpms once just to make sure the CEL didn't come back. it drives fine, feels smoother but can't really tell any other difference so far. i'll let you guys know more when it stops raining.

uploading pics now...