speaker help
#1
speaker help
I want to buy component speakers to replace my worn out factory ones. My question is do I need componet speakers for both the front and back of the car?
I have a kenwood headunit and I"m curently looking at Boston Acoustic Sx 60 or Polk Audio MMC6500 componet speakers
Thx
Thanks
I have a kenwood headunit and I"m curently looking at Boston Acoustic Sx 60 or Polk Audio MMC6500 componet speakers
Thx
Thanks
#2
Nope, the rear speakers are 6x9's, just buy a Coaxial design (Boston Acoustics is my favorite). those two component sets you listed, aren't in the same price category. I would compare the Boston Acoustics SL60 component with the Polk MOMO 6.5 component. I bought the Boston SL60's a couple weeks ago to replace my Boston NX67's up front. They are amazing. I went to my car audio shop and compared the two in the shop, the Bostons sounded a little bit better. I know in a car environment speakers sound different, but i was already partial to Boston, and I wanted them to match my boston 6x9's. the SL60's run at about 300 dollars, and the Polks are about 270, but i think the extra 30 for the Boston's is worth it.
but here's the thing, If you don't plan on installing an amp to power your speakers, it'd be better just to get Coaxials. Component speakers don't sound nearly as good on deck power as they do ampped. sorry if this reply is at all confusing. let me know what you think~! and good luck.
but here's the thing, If you don't plan on installing an amp to power your speakers, it'd be better just to get Coaxials. Component speakers don't sound nearly as good on deck power as they do ampped. sorry if this reply is at all confusing. let me know what you think~! and good luck.
#3
Originally Posted by 98_2.5_TL
Nope, the rear speakers are 6x9's, just buy a Coaxial design (Boston Acoustics is my favorite). those two component sets you listed, aren't in the same price category. I would compare the Boston Acoustics SL60 component with the Polk MOMO 6.5 component. I bought the Boston SL60's a couple weeks ago to replace my Boston NX67's up front. They are amazing. I went to my car audio shop and compared the two in the shop, the Bostons sounded a little bit better. I know in a car environment speakers sound different, but i was already partial to Boston, and I wanted them to match my boston 6x9's. the SL60's run at about 300 dollars, and the Polks are about 270, but i think the extra 30 for the Boston's is worth it.
but here's the thing, If you don't plan on installing an amp to power your speakers, it'd be better just to get Coaxials. Component speakers don't sound nearly as good on deck power as they do ampped. sorry if this reply is at all confusing. let me know what you think~! and good luck.
but here's the thing, If you don't plan on installing an amp to power your speakers, it'd be better just to get Coaxials. Component speakers don't sound nearly as good on deck power as they do ampped. sorry if this reply is at all confusing. let me know what you think~! and good luck.
Thanks
#4
good choice. for amps, i'd go with a 4-channel. I have 2 kicker two-channel amps running my speakers, but that's just because i value sound quality over bass, haha.
for you, i'd go with a 4-channel amp, either Alpine, Kicker, or MTX. I'd get one with a rating of at least 50 watts RMS per channel. that'll drive your speakers pretty cleanly.
I have 110 watts RMS going to each front speaker, and 85 watts RMS going to each rear speaker, but that's way more than enough.
i used to have an MTX 4-channel amp with a rating of only 37.5 Watts RMS per channel, and it would clip (distort) pretty easily. amps makes speakers sound much better, but get at least 50 Watts RMS per channel into a 4-ohm load.
some companies try to market RMS at 2-ohm loads, but most car speakers (i.e. your Bostons) are 4-ohm. make sure you check what the 4-OHM rating of the amp is. most of the time, 2-ohm power is twice that of 4-ohm power, so check the ratings closely.
for value, I'd go with an Alpine four-channel amp. they make really decent Mono Sub amps too, if you wanted to upgrade later. Sorry for the long explanation, but hopefully this helps!!
good luck! hit me up with any more questions you have. I'm glad to help fellow TL'ers.
a usuall power rating of an amp looks like this......
RMS power into 4-channels at 4-ohms with <.1% THD (total harmonic Distortion)------- 50 Watts x 4
RMS at 2-ohms by 4-channels------- 100 watts x 4.
remember that car speakers usually run at 4-ohms, so that's what's most important.
for you, i'd go with a 4-channel amp, either Alpine, Kicker, or MTX. I'd get one with a rating of at least 50 watts RMS per channel. that'll drive your speakers pretty cleanly.
I have 110 watts RMS going to each front speaker, and 85 watts RMS going to each rear speaker, but that's way more than enough.
i used to have an MTX 4-channel amp with a rating of only 37.5 Watts RMS per channel, and it would clip (distort) pretty easily. amps makes speakers sound much better, but get at least 50 Watts RMS per channel into a 4-ohm load.
some companies try to market RMS at 2-ohm loads, but most car speakers (i.e. your Bostons) are 4-ohm. make sure you check what the 4-OHM rating of the amp is. most of the time, 2-ohm power is twice that of 4-ohm power, so check the ratings closely.
for value, I'd go with an Alpine four-channel amp. they make really decent Mono Sub amps too, if you wanted to upgrade later. Sorry for the long explanation, but hopefully this helps!!
good luck! hit me up with any more questions you have. I'm glad to help fellow TL'ers.
a usuall power rating of an amp looks like this......
RMS power into 4-channels at 4-ohms with <.1% THD (total harmonic Distortion)------- 50 Watts x 4
RMS at 2-ohms by 4-channels------- 100 watts x 4.
remember that car speakers usually run at 4-ohms, so that's what's most important.
#5
Note: almost any external Amplifier will sound better than Deck power.
Decks say they're rated at 50 watts by 4, but that's MAX power. In reality, they only run about 18-22 watts RMS per channel. WEAK!!!
Decks say they're rated at 50 watts by 4, but that's MAX power. In reality, they only run about 18-22 watts RMS per channel. WEAK!!!
#6
Originally Posted by 98_2.5_TL
Note: almost any external Amplifier will sound better than Deck power.
Decks say they're rated at 50 watts by 4, but that's MAX power. In reality, they only run about 18-22 watts RMS per channel. WEAK!!!
Decks say they're rated at 50 watts by 4, but that's MAX power. In reality, they only run about 18-22 watts RMS per channel. WEAK!!!
#7
the F450 alpine is perfect! 70 watts per channel at 4-ohms. that's more than enough to drive your speakers loudly and clearly. good choice. The amp requires 8-gauge wiring, but if you plan on upgrading your system (subwoofers) later, i'd recommend installing 4-gauge now. it'll save you money and time in the end, IF you're going to upgrade!
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#8
Originally Posted by 98_2.5_TL
the F450 alpine is perfect! 70 watts per channel at 4-ohms. that's more than enough to drive your speakers loudly and clearly. good choice. The amp requires 8-gauge wiring, but if you plan on upgrading your system (subwoofers) later, i'd recommend installing 4-gauge now. it'll save you money and time in the end, IF you're going to upgrade!
#10
no problem. most of the threads on here are stupid, it's nice to actually have a nice thread with lots of information in it. haha.
If you need installation tips (hopefully you DIY, it'll save you money), i can help with that. good luck with your project!
If you need installation tips (hopefully you DIY, it'll save you money), i can help with that. good luck with your project!
#11
Originally Posted by FastHarry
Ya im working on puttin in my alpine 6.5 type R Componets and does anyone know where the factory crossovers are? Cuz i need to find them and put mine in.
Why do you need the factory crossovers? are you using an alpine tweeter?
also, are you using the stock dash tweeter location?
let me know.
#13
Originally Posted by FastHarry
yes they are alpine tweets, and i tried using the factory one but it was pickin up to much low end and vibrating like crazy and i want to wire it nice so i need to know where the fac x-overs are?
You simply do not need the factory crossover. Use the ones that came with your alpine components. Your alpine tweeters will sound bad if run on the stock crossovers, if even the crossovers are external, and even if the factory ones run at the same impedence. Bypass your stock crossovers, and Use your alpine crossovers!
Hopefully i'm not missing something here, let me know.
#15
question, I have a 98 2.5, with the kenwood 911dvd and kgc 9044 eq, i'm using a 1200.1 mono kicker to push my jl 13 w7 it sounds good but I was wondering if i should take out the kicker and put in a jl 1000.1. Also, 98_tl how did you get the blue in the car, it looks good
#16
Originally Posted by rlarge98tl
question, I have a 98 2.5, with the kenwood 911dvd and kgc 9044 eq, i'm using a 1200.1 mono kicker to push my jl 13 w7 it sounds good but I was wondering if i should take out the kicker and put in a jl 1000.1. Also, 98_tl how did you get the blue in the car, it looks good
I bought an blue LED kit off of ebay. the one i bought came with 4 small LEDs.
Dont buy neons, they suck. i have one in my trunk to light up my amps, and you can't see it, but only a little at night. LEDs draw no power either. They aren't as bright as they are in my avatar, the camera made em look brighter, but they really do show up, it's nice. I just ran leads off of the four LEDs to my amp underneath my seat. That amp powers the ceiling speakers, which i recommend anyone doing that has an aftermarket deck. As far as your amp question........
are you running the coils in parallel? if so, that's a .75 ohm load. I'd probably just stick with the kicker, it has a little bit more power, although not much more. why do you want to switch? just to keep it all JL? Your trunk setup looks nice by the way, a 13 inch W7 is amazing. Your kicker amp is older, so a 1000/1 might have better sound quality. i'm not sure.
if you are interested in getting those blue LEDs, i can point you in the right direction, just let me know.
How do you post pictures on this site? I've been wanting to post pictures of my trunk/amps on here. hmm. let me know!
#17
$300 for a boston? definitely not worth it. (no offense) just too high for it quality. oh, does ur back speaker has cross over? An additional $30 will get you FOCAL. Infinity kappa isn't bad either and they only run for about $199 retail, especially it is a 3 way speakers. but whatever gets you in the mood.
#18
Originally Posted by 98_2.5_TL
I bought an blue LED kit off of ebay. the one i bought came with 4 small LEDs.
Dont buy neons, they suck. i have one in my trunk to light up my amps, and you can't see it, but only a little at night. LEDs draw no power either. They aren't as bright as they are in my avatar, the camera made em look brighter, but they really do show up, it's nice. I just ran leads off of the four LEDs to my amp underneath my seat. That amp powers the ceiling speakers, which i recommend anyone doing that has an aftermarket deck. As far as your amp question........
are you running the coils in parallel? if so, that's a .75 ohm load. I'd probably just stick with the kicker, it has a little bit more power, although not much more. why do you want to switch? just to keep it all JL? Your trunk setup looks nice by the way, a 13 inch W7 is amazing. Your kicker amp is older, so a 1000/1 might have better sound quality. i'm not sure.
if you are interested in getting those blue LEDs, i can point you in the right direction, just let me know.
How do you post pictures on this site? I've been wanting to post pictures of my trunk/amps on here. hmm. let me know!
Dont buy neons, they suck. i have one in my trunk to light up my amps, and you can't see it, but only a little at night. LEDs draw no power either. They aren't as bright as they are in my avatar, the camera made em look brighter, but they really do show up, it's nice. I just ran leads off of the four LEDs to my amp underneath my seat. That amp powers the ceiling speakers, which i recommend anyone doing that has an aftermarket deck. As far as your amp question........
are you running the coils in parallel? if so, that's a .75 ohm load. I'd probably just stick with the kicker, it has a little bit more power, although not much more. why do you want to switch? just to keep it all JL? Your trunk setup looks nice by the way, a 13 inch W7 is amazing. Your kicker amp is older, so a 1000/1 might have better sound quality. i'm not sure.
if you are interested in getting those blue LEDs, i can point you in the right direction, just let me know.
How do you post pictures on this site? I've been wanting to post pictures of my trunk/amps on here. hmm. let me know!
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