rotor change
03-21-2005, 06:34 PM
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rotor change
i have a 96 2.5. so, um, how you do this? i have changed rotors before, but i can't even get the wheel off. in the manual it doesn't say anything about that middle bolt (34mm???), but that seems to be holding it on. must i take that off first? and if so, what is best way to 'uncrimp' that bit of metal on the bolt that is holding it under those clips. i hope this is not a babble of questions. thanks all.....hope i can get it done tonite lol
03-21-2005, 07:50 PM
#2
u talking about the screw to get the hub off??? or the little philips head screw that holds the rotor in... usually u need an impact driver to get that thing off... if it isn't in there then the rotor should just fall off after u remove the caliper...
03-21-2005, 09:38 PM
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Judging by your questions you're trying to take off the axle bolt don't even touch that and that little piece of metal is called a cotter pin. I tried looking up pics of the 2.5tl brakes but the best I could find were from spooky's accident.
But what it looks like to be is basically only the caliper and those phillips screws are holding the rotor on. Just get the screws out, the best way i've found is to take a phillips screw driver and use a hammer and hit the screw driver in and turn it with pressure. Then remove the caliper which is like a few bolts. Take the pads out and get the entire caliper assembly off the rotor. Use a malet and hit the rotor off and then to put it back together go in reverse. Remember to use some brake cleaner and good luck. But then again I'm not sure how much this helps because I based it off looking at a pic
But what it looks like to be is basically only the caliper and those phillips screws are holding the rotor on. Just get the screws out, the best way i've found is to take a phillips screw driver and use a hammer and hit the screw driver in and turn it with pressure. Then remove the caliper which is like a few bolts. Take the pads out and get the entire caliper assembly off the rotor. Use a malet and hit the rotor off and then to put it back together go in reverse. Remember to use some brake cleaner and good luck. But then again I'm not sure how much this helps because I based it off looking at a pic
03-21-2005, 10:39 PM
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k, here is the deal:
the tire was just kinda 'stuck' on. it's like no one has touched this stuff in 20 years, even though the car is just a 96. i mean, everything is very rough, and had to be sprayed with WD-40 (only stuff i had). even then, i had to use my torque wrench to get em off. problem is, no manual, no nothing, so i don't know what to torque them to when i put them back on.
so basically this is a crap install at this point. i got the pads and caliper and what not, off, but then when you're looking at the rotor, there is a 'guard' plate on there or something. this is held on by 4 bolts and that hub bolt. by the way, it's not 34 mm.
i'm not sure what size....maybe 35. so i rounded off one of the bolts since it was so tight, and had to drill it out. well i tagged a bit of the threading while doing that, but hopefully i can still get a new bolt on there. i waited over a half hour at a late night GM parts dept. to get a socket and a few bolts. well i can't use the bolts cuz i'm not to that stage yet and the socket is wrong. this is going VERY ungood.
basically i need any and all help anyone has for this. someone must have changed their own rotors successfully on this board. here is another main concern of mine. i know these cars have hubcentric hubs (self-centering). so if i take that hub bolt off, am i going to screw that up? second, once i get it off, put new rotors on, and put bolt back on....what do i torque that to? well, like i said, any and all help is surely appreciated. i'm just glad i could get a ride from a buddy to work tomorrow. this is bad cuz no car = no work = no pay. i hope someone out there has an answer or two. i so should have done way more research before diving into this. :smackhead:
the tire was just kinda 'stuck' on. it's like no one has touched this stuff in 20 years, even though the car is just a 96. i mean, everything is very rough, and had to be sprayed with WD-40 (only stuff i had). even then, i had to use my torque wrench to get em off. problem is, no manual, no nothing, so i don't know what to torque them to when i put them back on.
so basically this is a crap install at this point. i got the pads and caliper and what not, off, but then when you're looking at the rotor, there is a 'guard' plate on there or something. this is held on by 4 bolts and that hub bolt. by the way, it's not 34 mm.
i'm not sure what size....maybe 35. so i rounded off one of the bolts since it was so tight, and had to drill it out. well i tagged a bit of the threading while doing that, but hopefully i can still get a new bolt on there. i waited over a half hour at a late night GM parts dept. to get a socket and a few bolts. well i can't use the bolts cuz i'm not to that stage yet and the socket is wrong. this is going VERY ungood.basically i need any and all help anyone has for this. someone must have changed their own rotors successfully on this board. here is another main concern of mine. i know these cars have hubcentric hubs (self-centering). so if i take that hub bolt off, am i going to screw that up? second, once i get it off, put new rotors on, and put bolt back on....what do i torque that to? well, like i said, any and all help is surely appreciated. i'm just glad i could get a ride from a buddy to work tomorrow. this is bad cuz no car = no work = no pay.
i hope someone out there has an answer or two. i so should have done way more research before diving into this. :smackhead:
03-22-2005, 08:05 AM
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OK, To get the rotors off, remove the wheel ( I wouldn't be spraying WD40 on the wheel lugs, and since you did, I would be SURE to clean off both the studs and nuts VERY WELL with brake cleaner before re-mounting them. Remove the caliper by simply removing one of the rear bolts and loosening the other then you can flip the caliper up. Then remove the two small phillips head screws in the outer area of the rotor (in between the wheel studs) and remove the old rotor. You don NOT for any reason need to remove the axle bolt as it will have NO effect on removing the rotors. If you WERE going to, you would simply use a screwdriver and a hammer to open up the cotter nut then twist it off, but you shouldn't be doing this to remove your rotor. Anyways, install the new rotor in the revers of the removal, torque the calipers back down GOOD AND TIGHT, then re-install the wheel and torque it to 80 ft-lbs. Hope this helps.
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03-22-2005, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Cornflake
OK, To get the rotors off, remove the wheel ( I wouldn't be spraying WD40 on the wheel lugs, and since you did, I would be SURE to clean off both the studs and nuts VERY WELL with brake cleaner before re-mounting them. Remove the caliper by simply removing one of the rear bolts and loosening the other then you can flip the caliper up. Then remove the two small phillips head screws in the outer area of the rotor (in between the wheel studs) and remove the old rotor. You don NOT for any reason need to remove the axle bolt as it will have NO effect on removing the rotors. If you WERE going to, you would simply use a screwdriver and a hammer to open up the cotter nut then twist it off, but you shouldn't be doing this to remove your rotor. Anyways, install the new rotor in the revers of the removal, torque the calipers back down GOOD AND TIGHT, then re-install the wheel and torque it to 80 ft-lbs. Hope this helps.
i see no screws on these rotors at all. and if you do just undo them, how do you get them over that plate??? here is a pic of new rotors:
i hope this helps. i NEED to get this done tonite. i'm sorry if i'm misunderstanding you...be gentle.
03-22-2005, 06:23 PM
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in this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=rotors
Tommithy says that the center hub bolt must come out.
i took those 4 gold bolts out as well and the rotor moves freely, but obviously just turns...
*sigh*, why my acura hate me? lol
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=rotors
Tommithy says that the center hub bolt must come out.
i took those 4 gold bolts out as well and the rotor moves freely, but obviously just turns...
*sigh*, why my acura hate me? lol
03-22-2005, 06:34 PM
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ok, i hate to keep reposting in my own thread but...
when i look into the top hole, i see a phillips (+) screw in that hole. i tried just a bit to remove it but didn't want to ruin it or whatever. are these the retaining screws? i only see one...where is the other? and still...how would i get the rotor out of that plated area?
when i look into the top hole, i see a phillips (+) screw in that hole. i tried just a bit to remove it but didn't want to ruin it or whatever. are these the retaining screws? i only see one...where is the other? and still...how would i get the rotor out of that plated area?
03-22-2005, 06:45 PM
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i have taken out the B bolts, but not the A yet. Cornflake says there is no need so i wanna make sure i know what's up with that, and i'm not sure what i can use to bend the crimped part of the bolt with. it almost broke my screwdrivers.
03-22-2005, 08:31 PM
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OK OK. i have thrown up the hands. it's over. i put it back together and am taking it to a place to have it done. i shalln't risk screwing it up anymore than i already have (had to drill a bolt out, etc....long story, but i spose for now decent ending). i just hope i can still stop tomorrow on way to work. thanks all for help.....but i can't do it 
maybe next time
maybe next time
03-22-2005, 11:33 PM
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I was worried that it was a hub over rotor setup instead of a rotor over hub. The setup cornflake and i described were for a rotor over hub design, which is easier to install. The hub over rotor design similar to the 90-97 accords are a pain in the ass. You made a very wise choice by taking it to a shop as opposed to trying it on your own.
03-23-2005, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LDH
I was worried that it was a hub over rotor setup instead of a rotor over hub. The setup cornflake and i described were for a rotor over hub design, which is easier to install. The hub over rotor design similar to the 90-97 accords are a pain in the ass. You made a very wise choice by taking it to a shop as opposed to trying it on your own.
I guess the 2.5 is different than the 3.2? Or am I getting old and confusing my cars completely.....
03-23-2005, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Cornflake
I guess the 2.5 is different than the 3.2? Or am I getting old and confusing my cars completely..... I guess they are different, but the setup you described is also the same as an integra.
03-23-2005, 10:02 AM
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HAHA, I know, that's exactly what I was referring to, did I get my 3.2 mixed up with my old Integra!! LOL BOTH of my Integra's had that set-up I coulda sworn my 3.2 did too, and I guess it does, the 2.5's are apparently different!
03-23-2005, 10:28 AM
#18
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I've worked on quite a few cars, and that has to be one of the most messed up rotor designs I have ever seen. That moves the calipers so far in it must be difficult to check pad thickness.
I noticed all the people who answered in this thread have 3.2s. I guess we've never been aware of the diff until now?
I noticed all the people who answered in this thread have 3.2s. I guess we've never been aware of the diff until now?
03-23-2005, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wackjum
I've worked on quite a few cars, and that has to be one of the most messed up rotor designs I have ever seen. That moves the calipers so far in it must be difficult to check pad thickness.
I noticed all the people who answered in this thread have 3.2s. I guess we've never been aware of the diff until now?
I noticed all the people who answered in this thread have 3.2s. I guess we've never been aware of the diff until now?
or no one else had changed their own brakes before...
03-23-2005, 06:38 PM
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well with this type of setup i can see why. so car-x wants 200 bux to put my rotors on, without changing pads. i can do that for sure. they said it would take 2.6 hours to change both sides. and that you need a special tool to pull that hub assembly off the spindel or some such. so i'm not sure what i'm gonna do. midas said 75 so maybe i'll do that...they haven't seen it yet tho so that could change. either way.....what a mess. sux i had to be the one to find out the 2.5s are diff. than the 3.2s lol.
03-23-2005, 08:30 PM
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Yea the rotors have to be machined pressed onto the hub. It can be done without the tools but the work is not worth it. My mechanic hates changing my rotors on my 93 accord. It has only been changed once and he said it was hell. When I first got the car it had a full brembo setup 
. But I switched it back to stock with brembo blanks becuase the other rotors would have cost me way too much to replace.
. But I switched it back to stock with brembo blanks becuase the other rotors would have cost me way too much to replace.
03-23-2005, 10:27 PM
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all i can say is......this BETTER be worth it. and the guy at car-x also suggested steel brake lines and a brake fluid flush. i said "yeah, when i can afford it". it isn't cheap, but apparently is very very good. *sigh*.....i'm sure i can't do that either lol. also, i think that is the only fluid on the car that has not been flushed recently sheesh
03-24-2005, 09:12 AM
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Putting lines in is usually not a big deal - just a little tedious with various little retainer clips holding the lines in place, etc... Generally, they're just attached to the caliper with a banjo bolt (fancy name for bolt that goes through hole) and to the car via a line nut (i.e., requires a line, or "flare nut" wrench, to safely remove). Keep the cap on your master cylinder to minimize fluid leakage.
Bleeding just takes (ideally) two friends and some vinyl hose....
Bleeding just takes (ideally) two friends and some vinyl hose....
03-24-2005, 06:07 PM
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well here is one reason not to have this setup. to change just the rotors and leave the old pads on for me to change them out: cheapest is $160 --> big ole i'm so annoyed at this particular part of this car. stupid trapped hub setup. this has been almost a $500 ordeal. i'm not too impressed. but at least it'll be done and won't have to be done again for a very long time. cuz this would wear me out having to spend this all the time. i'm not sure now if i'll ever do the rears
i'm so annoyed at this particular part of this car. stupid trapped hub setup. this has been almost a $500 ordeal. i'm not too impressed. but at least it'll be done and won't have to be done again for a very long time. cuz this would wear me out having to spend this all the time. i'm not sure now if i'll ever do the rears
03-25-2005, 03:03 PM
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I found these instruction's on another forum for a cb7 accord which has a similar brake setup (hub over rotor)
1. Tools: 36mm axle nut socket (autozone)
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt
2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.
3. Remove nut on outer tie rod. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.
4. Remove nut on lower control arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.
5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.
6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.
7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)
8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.
9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.
10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.
11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!
12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt
2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.
3. Remove nut on outer tie rod. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.
4. Remove nut on lower control arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.
5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.
6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.
7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)
8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.
9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.
10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.
11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!
12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!
03-25-2005, 06:50 PM
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wow. well i'm glad i had it done i guess. EXCEPT (*sigh*) two things:
1. i had a bad wheel bearing on the driver's side ($145 part)
this wore me out. as if nothing else could make it more expensive, i get a call from the guy doing it telling me this. he didn't charge me labor to do it since it was already off, so i just said yes...i was dying inside.
2. when i went to pull the car out of their garage, it started for a split second then died. then it would not start. it started to smell like it was flooded. i had to hold the gas 1/2 way down to get it to start and stay running, then it was fine. i had to park my car for an hour cuz of the break in period for these rotors. so when i go to get it here in a bit, it BETTER start right up. i have never had any issues before. right when this happened, i immediately thought "what the hell did you mess with?". so if it happens again, i'm calling the shop tomorrow with an angry voice.
anyways.....approx. total of this whole venture, including bearing: about $645. fun huh. and i thought the rotors were expensive....sheesh. i still have to bring it home and change the pads. let us pray nothing screws me there.
1. i had a bad wheel bearing on the driver's side ($145 part)
this wore me out. as if nothing else could make it more expensive, i get a call from the guy doing it telling me this. he didn't charge me labor to do it since it was already off, so i just said yes...i was dying inside.
2. when i went to pull the car out of their garage, it started for a split second then died. then it would not start. it started to smell like it was flooded. i had to hold the gas 1/2 way down to get it to start and stay running, then it was fine. i had to park my car for an hour cuz of the break in period for these rotors. so when i go to get it here in a bit, it BETTER start right up. i have never had any issues before. right when this happened, i immediately thought "what the hell did you mess with?". so if it happens again, i'm calling the shop tomorrow with an angry voice.
anyways.....approx. total of this whole venture, including bearing: about $645. fun huh. and i thought the rotors were expensive....sheesh. i still have to bring it home and change the pads. let us pray nothing screws me there.
04-01-2005, 11:52 AM
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rotor woes
Sorry you had so much trouble removing the front rotors. To clarify my instructions, yes you need to remove both bolt A and 4 bolt B's. Now on the BACK side of the rotor (the side that is not shown in the pic above) there are 4 more bolts near the center hub. These need to be removed as well. Then everything will slip off the axle shaft.
Not that these are much help to you now since you already had it done but hey, now you know for the next time.
As for the rear calipers and rotors. Not sure where you are at but the rears are much easier then the fronts. Remove the calipers. To compress the piston back in you would use a large screwdriver or needle nose pliers and TURN the piston back in. Just lay the screwdriver down in the groove of the piston (there are 2 grooves that make a big plus + sign in the piston) and turn. I believe it is clockwise to turn it back in. Crank it all the way back into the caliper.
To remove the rotor you will need an Impact Screwdriver. You can get one of these from Harbor Freight. Not sure if I can post links here but here goes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978
Use this to remove the phillips screws on the outside of the rear rotor. I think there is 1 per rotor. You can't miss it as it's between the lug nut studs. This is the ONLY way to loosen this screw. Once that screw is out the rotor will slide right off.
Good choice on the KVR rotors. They are actually Brembo blanks drilled by KVR. Because of the way KVR drills these rotors you shouldn't have a problem with cracking like some other cheap x-drilled rotors. Not sure what kind of pads you used but I definately recommend the Akebono ceramic pads. They are a perfect match with these rotors, are very quiet and leave hardly any dust.
Tom
Not that these are much help to you now since you already had it done but hey, now you know for the next time.
As for the rear calipers and rotors. Not sure where you are at but the rears are much easier then the fronts. Remove the calipers. To compress the piston back in you would use a large screwdriver or needle nose pliers and TURN the piston back in. Just lay the screwdriver down in the groove of the piston (there are 2 grooves that make a big plus + sign in the piston) and turn. I believe it is clockwise to turn it back in. Crank it all the way back into the caliper.
To remove the rotor you will need an Impact Screwdriver. You can get one of these from Harbor Freight. Not sure if I can post links here but here goes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978
Use this to remove the phillips screws on the outside of the rear rotor. I think there is 1 per rotor. You can't miss it as it's between the lug nut studs. This is the ONLY way to loosen this screw. Once that screw is out the rotor will slide right off.
Good choice on the KVR rotors. They are actually Brembo blanks drilled by KVR. Because of the way KVR drills these rotors you shouldn't have a problem with cracking like some other cheap x-drilled rotors. Not sure what kind of pads you used but I definately recommend the Akebono ceramic pads. They are a perfect match with these rotors, are very quiet and leave hardly any dust.
Tom
04-01-2005, 05:58 PM
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i got the blue organics from Jockos (parts store around here). they are working well. i was just nervous about my fronts warping, so i am changing the caliper and pads tonite. i hope it all works out. the rotor looks kinda crappy.
i had some kvr's on my beretta for 5 years before changing them....no shaving or turning...they are EXCELLENT rotors.
go canada eh?
i had some kvr's on my beretta for 5 years before changing them....no shaving or turning...they are EXCELLENT rotors.
go canada eh?
03-29-2006, 11:57 PM
#32
2007 6SMT Type-S
Originally Posted by Cornflake
OK, To get the rotors off, remove the wheel ( I wouldn't be spraying WD40 on the wheel lugs, and since you did, I would be SURE to clean off both the studs and nuts VERY WELL with brake cleaner before re-mounting them. Remove the caliper by simply removing one of the rear bolts and loosening the other then you can flip the caliper up. Then remove the two small phillips head screws in the outer area of the rotor (in between the wheel studs) and remove the old rotor. You don NOT for any reason need to remove the axle bolt as it will have NO effect on removing the rotors. If you WERE going to, you would simply use a screwdriver and a hammer to open up the cotter nut then twist it off, but you shouldn't be doing this to remove your rotor. Anyways, install the new rotor in the revers of the removal, torque the calipers back down GOOD AND TIGHT, then re-install the wheel and torque it to 80 ft-lbs. Hope this helps.
03-30-2006, 05:10 AM
#33
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The rotors are probably seized to the hub. Hit them with a hammer a few times. Mine were seized so bad once I had to thread a bolt into one of the holes on the rotor (not the philips screw holes) and tightened the bolt until it was pressing against the hub and "POP!", the rotor came right off.
Dom
Dom
03-30-2006, 07:39 AM
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just got my fronts replaced and i was SCREWED!!!!! was at the dealer getting an oil change and some basic fills and he brought me out to see my car. the rotors on the front CRACKED AND FELL OFF when they were "chipped" away at. sooooooooo.... i was stuck paying 400 fucking dollars for new rotors and pads on the front. i hate that dealer now. ima get the rears done soon enough
03-30-2006, 09:37 AM
#35
2007 6SMT Type-S
Originally Posted by 96TL
The rotors are probably seized to the hub. Hit them with a hammer a few times. Mine were seized so bad once I had to thread a bolt into one of the holes on the rotor (not the philips screw holes) and tightened the bolt until it was pressing against the hub and "POP!", the rotor came right off.
Dom
Dom
03-30-2006, 03:14 PM
#36
Racer
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beating the rotors off the hub will be impossiby hard.
I almost broke my f*cking wrist. Luckily I found a pressor in a flea market for $35.
the right way to do it is remove the whole control arm,lower ball joint,and axel screw. then take the whole piece and use a presser to get it out and new one in.
the rears are extremely easy and does not requie a pressor.
I almost broke my f*cking wrist. Luckily I found a pressor in a flea market for $35.
the right way to do it is remove the whole control arm,lower ball joint,and axel screw. then take the whole piece and use a presser to get it out and new one in.
the rears are extremely easy and does not requie a pressor.
04-01-2006, 11:33 AM
#37
2007 6SMT Type-S
Nah, it wasn't hard. I got a block of wood and focuced around that metal splash guard (or whatever it is) and it popped right off. Thanks again, DOM! Just a quick Q: did you just go buy a screw that fit into those unused holes in the rotor or did you drill your own?
04-01-2006, 04:38 PM
#38
I
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Originally Posted by Ysidro
beating the rotors off the hub will be impossiby hard.
I almost broke my f*cking wrist. Luckily I found a pressor in a flea market for $35.
the right way to do it is remove the whole control arm,lower ball joint,and axel screw. then take the whole piece and use a presser to get it out and new one in.
the rears are extremely easy and does not requie a pressor.
I almost broke my f*cking wrist. Luckily I found a pressor in a flea market for $35.
the right way to do it is remove the whole control arm,lower ball joint,and axel screw. then take the whole piece and use a presser to get it out and new one in.
the rears are extremely easy and does not requie a pressor.
04-01-2006, 06:36 PM
#39
Skeet Skeet Skeet
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Originally Posted by m0s3s
did you take out A or B(4 bolts)? from what Timothy said, i think he meant the A bolt. hope this helps
edit: he also said to remove all the B bolts
04-02-2006, 12:39 PM
#40
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you know, the way Honda design the front rotor assembly is just pure stupid. 
Just changing the rotors requires you to mess with the hub.
They should of made the fronts like the 3.2 TL where changing the rotors doesn't involve messing with the hub, and a small tap with a mallet will get it off.
Another downside is the I have to paid more to get it replace.
Just changing the rotors requires you to mess with the hub.
They should of made the fronts like the 3.2 TL where changing the rotors doesn't involve messing with the hub, and a small tap with a mallet will get it off.
Another downside is the I have to paid more to get it replace.