Ysidro

hey folks.
Lets picture an exhaust manifold for a sec.
here this picture will help you.


Notice how theres an exhaust pipe for each of the 5 cylinders.
My question is, when our cars are on the move does exhaust come out at the sametime for all of the cylinders? Or does it take turn?
Also how much exhaust pressure do you guys think comes off of each cylinder?

And finally, how many cylinders would you think would need to power a turbo that outputs around 5-8 PSI?

UnsanePyro

http://www.howstuffworks.com/

Haikoo

All the cylinders don't fire at the same time...so the valves don't open at the same time...so the exaust takes turns....

Ken1997TL

^^^

Exactly.. pressure will go up and down if you measure it in fractions of a second.. but this doesnt make that much of a difference.

cambo

do you know what a typical turbo exhaust manifold look like? Seems like you dont if you're asking if you can only put a turbo on certain cylinders. Also, turbo's come in all different sizes, asking if the exhaust can power a turbo pushing 5-8 psi is irrelevent without knowing what turbo you want to use.

cambo

BTW, do you know if you're going to use an internal or external wastegate? What about engine/fuel management? Are you going to beef up the tranny?

cambo

btw, you can easily goto a fabricator and ask them to make you a log style turbo manifold for you. Log style manifolds are easy to make, versus equal-length turbo manifolds or even the harder ram-horn style manifolds.

if you want, goto www.7thgencivic.com and pm a guy named dezod. He's a fabricator and a vendor on the site. He'll easily answer any question you have and could possibly make you a manifold, but here's a warning, his parts can get expensive, but he knows his stuff and he's very good.

Ysidro

I dont care about how a typical turbo looks like, or what type of turbo I'll be using as of right now. All I care about right now is how our TL 2.5 exhaust cylinder functions.
As many of you may already know, our car has too many obstacles and limitations unlike other cars where its easy to turbo. Thus sometimes I may have to go
odd ways to solve problems like this question Ive posted.
Part of my requirements, my priority is to make the boost as safe as possible.

Ysidro

For my project, I'll be using Boost-N-TL's architect with some improvements of my own. whatever is in the picture is pretty much what I mostly will use.
The setup is going to be pretty much basic, nothing fancy because we dont get aftermarket support for our cars which is good enough to get it up and running.
The tranny wont get beef up. I cant do much about this issue because of the reason stated there. What id do is boost it to a certain level, and if the tires spin and can get a grip, I'll turn down some boost.
At 5-8PSI it should be alright. Besides, Im not expecting 300HP out of a 5 cylinder car. 250HP or less or more and fat torque is ok.
I already have a 300HP G35 and when it gets old, Im goiong to twin turbo that f*cker to 500HP.

Also it should cost less too. Im estimating the whole project without dyno tuning would cost me around $1500 and thats with bargain hunting. Once everything is installed, I most likely will tow it to a dyno facility to have it dyno tuned at $180 an hour(about an estimated 3 hours total, 20 minutes from my house.


If you all forgot who Boot-N-TL is, heres a reminder of his setup.



if you guys take a look at the picture you can see the parts he use in his setup.
Lets make a list shall we? Starting from the right hand side.
The thing near the fuel filter is an inline fuel pump which is easy to install.
I'll be using the Wahbol 255 pump, cheap and great.

The blue thing in the middle is an FMU(fuel management Unit), thats the sh*t used to increase the fuel. I will be using a rising rate on my setup.

Then theres the turbo with a wastegate/blowoff valve and sh*t.

Then theres the big pipe running down to the intercooler next to the power steering fluid reservior.

In the middle, at the fuel rail, you can see that he installed a more diesel fuel injector because theres a blue stripe on it and the stock doesnt have that. probable a dsm450. again affordable and great sh*t.

To the right of the fuel rail is probably a module for gauges. Im not sure about that one. And speculations anyone?

And I think thats about it that I see. maybe I missed something.
so here are the parts again.

1- Inline fuel pump (walbro 255)
2- FMU(rising rate)
3- Fuel Injector (DSm 450)
4- Turbo(T3/T04)(look alike Turbonetics or used one)
5- Wastegate(Anyone know which ones better)
6- Blowoff valve(Anyone know which one is better)
7- Intercooler(ebay)
8- Homemade Downpipe (Hiome Depot & Lowes)
9- Intercooler pipe and connector and some heat shields(Ebay&Autozone&Pepboys)
10-gauges
11- custom exhaust manifold with a T3/T04 turbo flange
12-Dyno tuned
13-Other stuff I forgot.
14- Tech support=HomemadeTurbo.com

so slap thoses parts on then have it dyno tuned, and you're all set.
As for the turbo manifold, Im using an Acura Vigor exhaust manifold flange and welding it myself so that its cheap. Welding it and the pipes will be fun and adventorous.

As for the 7thGenCivic, f*ck him. Welding a log type exhaust manifold shouldnt be that complicating. Besides, Im cheap and on a budget.
And also,I think Id have to upgrade my exhaust system to get better flow but that can come later.

LDH

for the wastegate go with tial sport a 38mm should be good for pump gas. Bov any known brand is fine, most people care more about how it sounds, my personal choice would be a 50mm tial sport or a turboxs rfl.

Ysidro

Thanks for the reply folks.
Now Id like your opinion on the different brands of the following parts.
What do you think of an intercooler made by a company call FMIC?
What brand of intercooler should I use? And dont say, ""Well, it depends," because I dont care about size and fitment yet. Just the hottest and most use out there.

What brand of external wastegates do you guys think are most reliable and have the least fail rate? LHD suggest TIAL sport. I will look into it thanks, but would like to know more about the other brands. I think this is the most important component in safty wise. Thus I'll go beyond my budget if I have to.

And also if someone has an electronic TL repair manual, can they email me a copy?
In return if all goes well, I'll remember to hook them up with some pipes or you can be a good sumaritan.

cambo

FMIC is not a company, but an acronym. It stands for Front Mount InterCooler.

As for the brand of intercooler you want, theres a lot of options. They're all pretty much the same, so i wouldn't care about the brand, put the efficency of the intercooler itself. I guess you could say Sparco is the "hottest" brand out there so far.

Tial makes the best wastegates IMO.

All this is pretty basic info and the TL is not harder to boost than any other car/motor out there right now. Any N/A motor that someone is trying to turn into a F/I motor goes through the same process as you, albeit they may have an easier time finding parts dependent on the aftermarket support a motor may or may not have.

chadeck

Think of how fast your engine is moving.... For example, an engine(at idle) is turning at 500-900 RPM. RPM = Revolutions per Minute. Now think about how each cylinder is moving, they arent all moving up and down at the same time. For the 5 cylinder I'm willing to guess that each cylinder is having a detonation one right after the other.... So no they arent going at the same time technically, but yes tehy are specially when your on the move, the detonations are happening so fast that you might as well consider they are detonating at the same time.


Finally.....buddy there are 4 cylinder cars that push that kind of PSI, it doenst matter how many cylinders there is...the turbo is powered by your exhaust gases...meaning the higher the RPMs, the more gases coming out of the exhaust running through the turbine which then puts more air into the engine.

Hope that helped, even though it wasnt that in depth.

FastHarry

Ya fool you need to read a liitle bit more on how turbos work, most of friends cars are turbo except my 2.5 and they are the shit. But if you think about it how long do you think your motor will last, 3 months if your lucky, Our motors already have a high ass compression rate, in order to make it reliable you gotta drop the compression and retard the timing. To drop compression means you gotta build the whole motor, pistions, rings, rods and the rest of that good stuff or else things will blow so quick. My friend turbod his gay ass del sol and went threw 7 motors in like 6 months and finally just built it. Now he can actully push like 15 lbs of boost. before that he was runnin 7 lbs, and blowin shit up. So if you really want to do this whole project its going to be a bitch and one that will die quick. Im sure you could slap it all togeather and push 5 lbs and be in half way decent shap for a while but then it goes to axels and then the tranny which sucks already, But i believe our car has a 255 fuel pump, and i suggest like rerouting the exhaust tubes so there shorter and where there all about the same lenght. Anythings possible it just takes lots of cash and why bother with the 2.5, drop the HKS twins in the G35 an fly