I'm choked....
02-11-2003, 10:33 PM
#1
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I'm choked....
My check engine light came on today. I figured, no problem, I'll drop by the dealership and find out what's going on...
Now, keep in mind my last car was a 90 Integra. To check a code, all I had to do was peel the passenger carpet back and watch the flashing lights.
Was I ticked to find out it'll cost me 80 bucks just to have them read the code... WTF???? How long does it take them to pull the coin tray, plug in the unit, turn on the power and read the friggin display??? What is it... $480 an hour???
Now, keep in mind my last car was a 90 Integra. To check a code, all I had to do was peel the passenger carpet back and watch the flashing lights.
Was I ticked to find out it'll cost me 80 bucks just to have them read the code... WTF???? How long does it take them to pull the coin tray, plug in the unit, turn on the power and read the friggin display??? What is it... $480 an hour???
02-13-2003, 03:34 PM
#4
B A N N E D
,,,,
You check the codes in the tl the same way. theres a small blue plug under the passanger dash compartment. just unplug it from the holder and jump it with a saftey pin or a paperclip,(connect both sides of the plug together), then the dash light will flash.
My car constantly throws that **** on, just ignore it if its some MAP sensor, O2, or other monkey ass code. Most of the time its just obd2 getting the best of you from any mods you add. the light goes away.
i had a big wet nitrous kit on mine for a bit and it threw it like its job from added fuel pressure. had to take the kit off after it began running on 5 cylinders in safe mode.
My car constantly throws that **** on, just ignore it if its some MAP sensor, O2, or other monkey ass code. Most of the time its just obd2 getting the best of you from any mods you add. the light goes away.
i had a big wet nitrous kit on mine for a bit and it threw it like its job from added fuel pressure. had to take the kit off after it began running on 5 cylinders in safe mode.
02-13-2003, 07:23 PM
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Re: ,,,,
Originally posted by Colt45
You check the codes in the tl the same way. theres a small blue plug under the passanger dash compartment. just unplug it from the holder and jump it with a saftey pin or a paperclip,(connect both sides of the plug together), then the dash light will flash.
My car constantly throws that **** on, just ignore it if its some MAP sensor, O2, or other monkey ass code. Most of the time its just obd2 getting the best of you from any mods you add. the light goes away.
i had a big wet nitrous kit on mine for a bit and it threw it like its job from added fuel pressure. had to take the kit off after it began running on 5 cylinders in safe mode.
You check the codes in the tl the same way. theres a small blue plug under the passanger dash compartment. just unplug it from the holder and jump it with a saftey pin or a paperclip,(connect both sides of the plug together), then the dash light will flash.
My car constantly throws that **** on, just ignore it if its some MAP sensor, O2, or other monkey ass code. Most of the time its just obd2 getting the best of you from any mods you add. the light goes away.
i had a big wet nitrous kit on mine for a bit and it threw it like its job from added fuel pressure. had to take the kit off after it began running on 5 cylinders in safe mode.
Thanks a lot. I'll do that from now on. By the way, does this also reset the light?
By the way, I took it in yesterday and had them do the diagnostic thing.
According to the service manager, it was a faulty computer that was programmed for the southern states. It had no concept of 40 below and block heaters. As soon as I started the car the light came on because it WAS 40 below, but the engine coolant was warm because of the block heater. The computer figured it was impossible to have that much temperature differential before the engine had a chance to warm up, ao it assumed the sensor was faulty.
He claims this has happened with more than a few TLs, and it is covered by a lifetime warranty.
Bottom line: The diagnostic was free because of faulty electronics, and I'm getting a brand new computer installed next tuesday for free as well...
FREE IS GOOD.
02-13-2003, 08:12 PM
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Re: ,,,,
Originally posted by Colt45
You check the codes in the tl the same way. theres a small blue plug under the passanger dash compartment. just unplug it from the holder and jump it with a saftey pin or a paperclip,(connect both sides of the plug together), then the dash light will flash.
My car constantly throws that **** on, just ignore it if its some MAP sensor, O2, or other monkey ass code. Most of the time its just obd2 getting the best of you from any mods you add. the light goes away.
i had a big wet nitrous kit on mine for a bit and it threw it like its job from added fuel pressure. had to take the kit off after it began running on 5 cylinders in safe mode.
You check the codes in the tl the same way. theres a small blue plug under the passanger dash compartment. just unplug it from the holder and jump it with a saftey pin or a paperclip,(connect both sides of the plug together), then the dash light will flash.
My car constantly throws that **** on, just ignore it if its some MAP sensor, O2, or other monkey ass code. Most of the time its just obd2 getting the best of you from any mods you add. the light goes away.
i had a big wet nitrous kit on mine for a bit and it threw it like its job from added fuel pressure. had to take the kit off after it began running on 5 cylinders in safe mode.
02-13-2003, 08:26 PM
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sorrry, but what i was trying to say is that if you use the stock injectors for your car? ,that is the only way that a wet nitrous system works,a dry nitros system is just plug to your intake manifold or basically the tube that your breather is at..... correct me if im wrong.. pls
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02-14-2003, 11:52 PM
#8
B A N N E D
...
Putting it into the easiest terms i can, here goes....
I had a line running from the rear of the car and the bottle to the solinoid under the hood. Then from that solinoid into a distribution block of foggers (nossels) in each of the intake runners. Then a line ran from my fuel rail to the fuel solinoid to the same foggers as the nitrous. Then the arm switch i mounted in the center console in where the lighter would be, virtually spotless to the prying eye. Then i used the plastic pad on the floor to mount a momentary switch to so it was not visible to inspection. All the lines ran underneath the engine covers and were not visible to even mild dealer inspection. The only problem was, tapping the fuel rail dropped the fuel pressure to the second 3rd-6th cylinder fuel rail the way i wanted to run it so you couldnt see the kit. I drove the car a few times on this and was pleased as i pulled a newer style z28 on the highway. However the engine light wigged me out when it poped on immediatly, low fuel pressure, improper )2 temp, too rich too lean, and random misfire. I guess the jetting i used (100-125 hp shot) tripped the ecu and it advanced the timing from the intake air sensor running so cold, advanced my timing and fried a plug. So no more of that on 96+ newer obd2 car. I took the kit off the car immediatly. Im sure on a small 50 shot or somthing it would have ran well, but im not really into small 50 shots.
The car has potential if you can deal with filling the bottle alot or the chance of a burnt valve, but honestly what does someone see in doing all that with a 50 shot and running 15s right with a stock integra gsr. I deemed the 120 shot, busted ass and beat some stuff in the process. Its not worth it to trash a completely excellent car trying to race it, its simply not a racecar.
If i were you id seriously look into some crazy suspension, with the wheelbase you got, and enough power to have a comfterable car, it could be a dream ride with some nice road wheels and tires, and swaybars, bushings, full coilovers and strut bars, then do a crazy kit from value sports and call it a day.
Im just going to sell the car and get myself a sc300 next, ive made the decision, and my other backup car needs to still be repaired, as soon as that comes the tl hopefully will be sold and I can begin this sc300. Can we say volk wheels, and a supra turbo engine asap? hehehehe
sorry i blabbered so much, its 12am and all my buddies are out for valentines day, i have no valentine boo hoo, haha.
word, hope i answered the questions.
p.s. the kit was a nos wet kit
I had a line running from the rear of the car and the bottle to the solinoid under the hood. Then from that solinoid into a distribution block of foggers (nossels) in each of the intake runners. Then a line ran from my fuel rail to the fuel solinoid to the same foggers as the nitrous. Then the arm switch i mounted in the center console in where the lighter would be, virtually spotless to the prying eye. Then i used the plastic pad on the floor to mount a momentary switch to so it was not visible to inspection. All the lines ran underneath the engine covers and were not visible to even mild dealer inspection. The only problem was, tapping the fuel rail dropped the fuel pressure to the second 3rd-6th cylinder fuel rail the way i wanted to run it so you couldnt see the kit. I drove the car a few times on this and was pleased as i pulled a newer style z28 on the highway. However the engine light wigged me out when it poped on immediatly, low fuel pressure, improper )2 temp, too rich too lean, and random misfire. I guess the jetting i used (100-125 hp shot) tripped the ecu and it advanced the timing from the intake air sensor running so cold, advanced my timing and fried a plug. So no more of that on 96+ newer obd2 car. I took the kit off the car immediatly. Im sure on a small 50 shot or somthing it would have ran well, but im not really into small 50 shots.
The car has potential if you can deal with filling the bottle alot or the chance of a burnt valve, but honestly what does someone see in doing all that with a 50 shot and running 15s right with a stock integra gsr. I deemed the 120 shot, busted ass and beat some stuff in the process. Its not worth it to trash a completely excellent car trying to race it, its simply not a racecar.
If i were you id seriously look into some crazy suspension, with the wheelbase you got, and enough power to have a comfterable car, it could be a dream ride with some nice road wheels and tires, and swaybars, bushings, full coilovers and strut bars, then do a crazy kit from value sports and call it a day.
Im just going to sell the car and get myself a sc300 next, ive made the decision, and my other backup car needs to still be repaired, as soon as that comes the tl hopefully will be sold and I can begin this sc300. Can we say volk wheels, and a supra turbo engine asap? hehehehe
sorry i blabbered so much, its 12am and all my buddies are out for valentines day, i have no valentine boo hoo, haha.
word, hope i answered the questions.
p.s. the kit was a nos wet kit