Has this happend to any of you?
I was driving when i noticed that the heat was damn near the red. so i pulled over waited a while then kept driving. stop and go till i got to a store, picked up some antifreeze premix stuff, opend the rad (it has a new cap) and poured half the thing in there. then noticed that the other reservior thing was full with hot antifreeze. poured some out. the temperature went right down, and stayed there. so after it cooled down i poured more antifreeze in the rad, and had to empty some again from the reservior thingy. i repeat this process every day on cold starts, it hasent been over heating but im loosing fluid. I just bought the car 4 months ago, took it to a mechanic before and it was in great shape. He spent 2 hours looking at it and found only a bit of oil in between the tranny and engine but said that it wanst a major deal and some people drive with that for years and years... so its a v6 3.2 and i have about 210k on it. any ideas? thanks

 

yep, i kept driving like that for a few weeks untli my radiator cracked and ended up paying 400 bucks. try doing a radiator flush and see if that helps

 

yep same here

 

Similar thing happened to my 2000 Mazda Millenia S. Turned out it was not a leaking coolant system, it was back pressure causing the coolant to leak out of the overflow tank. The rad shop wanted to replace the head gasket and other items such as hoses, etc. Cost would have been almost the resale value of car. I loved that car but dumped it last Sept. and moved up to current 2003 TL-S. No regrets, TL-S gets much better around-town mileage, great ride, more zip and both burn premium. JC

 

My radiator burst, and after fixing it, I spun a bearing and blew the motor. Don't let it continuously overheat, and get it replaced ASAP so you won't share my fate!!

~Cheers~

 

check waterpump,water hoses+small pipes, radiator. check for old ,worn,leaking hoses or pipes.oh an thermometer.

 

Bad thermostat

 

commas and seperate paragraphs bro. some of us niggas are old in here. i got lost. both in the paragraph and ambition towards deciphering the facts.

 

Hi guys

So I ended up goin to the dealer i bought the car from, and they figure the rad has a leak. Makes sense, so now i need a new one. My buddy quoted me 170cad for a rad, still looking around. Used would be cheaper but :S The dealer quoted me 150 for install. I dont know how long it would take or if thats a rip off. If its easy enough and if i dont need any special tools would it be an easy enough job for someone without much experience to do? Id rather save myself a few bux so I can get my 2way alarm and window tint as planed. Thanks for the imput.

 

i replaced mine when some thuggish ruggish bones shot a fucking hole through my bumper, my condensor, and my radiator. Luckaly it didnt go through my block. Id assume it was a .380 or some shit for that reason.

Anyhow, i paid 90 bucks for a modine or Visteon replacement one. Took me about 20 mins to put in. Cake.

 

thuggish ruggish bones...lol, mayn i aint heard that in a minute, anyways i had that happen to me before and my resolution "after" i blew my radiator up was to replace the radiator, but the problem coulda been avoided by replacing the thermostat which are real cheap at autozone or orielly, depends, thats what i'd check first, better hope it didnt fuck with your heads cuz if it did then you are pretty much FUXED and might be cinsidering a type 2 swap real soon...so do yourself a favor stay ontop of your thermostat game and radi cap and a good radiator and u should be good, that reminds me i gotta go shoot out all the windows off the dude who charged me hundreds to change my plugs when the issue was my damn thermostat.....1

 

I wouldnt think he got the heads. the gaskets are pretty good. ive driven mine like that for a dday or 2 haha.

Too bad this isnt a few months ago worst case tho. I unloaded my type 2 heads cheap. After i swapped pistons the valves didnt clear my pistons when i clayed it.
The type 2 heads have a 3mm larger valve. I fealt more gain from compression than before from the heads though. Mine were even ported and polished with a 3 angle valve job.

 

hmm...i heard those type 2's run faster than the stock ones.....how true is that?

 

they do. I just pulled my stock shit apart and put nsx pistons in it and decked the block 30 thousandths. The larger type 2 legend valves hit the tops of the nsx piston. I had to modify the rod as well to fit in the piston.

I regret it now, cause if i do a manual trans, im going to fab turbo manifolds for it also and throw boost at it, if i do so, ill end up putting rods and pistons in it so that work was useless. Ill also prolly end up getting the block sleeved.

Who knows tho, if id like to see if i could make the newer type s 3.2 work in the car. I dont have that kinda time on my hands though, so ill prolly end up keeping what i have. Ive got no interest in the rl block though. waste of time imo. My mom had one and it was dog slow and doesnt weigh much more so im not impressed by it.

 

oh, damn thats alot to do, about how much did all those modifications cost you man, thats like some major bread spent, i was thinking about selling my vehicle when i fix it and getting an RL like a 2000 or 2001 model with the v-shaped grill

 

just parts. Few hundred bucks. I built the motor myself and a friend works at a machine shop that bored and honed it and modified the rods and pistons for me for like 100 bucks.

going on 13k miles with no issues. So i guess i know what the fuck im doing haha

 

yeah i guess so, but damn thats pretty cheap here in houston i dont even like poppin my hood for them because i always hear big hundreds, i'ma have to repair some things maybe u know whats wrong with it, ever since i got into that wreck when i cut my car on the belts start screeching, besides greasing them(if i'm supposed to do so) what else can i do to fix this issue...

 

belt dressing is the biggest niggarig you can do. Id assume you tagged whatever you tagged and moved the alternator or wacked something loose. The shit just needs to be tightened.

All belt dressing does is muffle the issue. the belts still slipping or it wouldnt make that noise. Its like spraypainting some genital warts peachy pink color and saying "yo this is some clean snatch, check it" .. Shits still got genital warts, they are just under cover and will end up fuckin u up..

Screeching belt will eventaually tax out the belt, or fuck up the alternator cause its running harder trying to keep charged cause when its charging its just slipping . In the end if you dont fix it, it will own you. Get a new belt, and replace it, setting the tension tight. If it still makes the screeching noise which im sure it wont, then you do the next step.

so remember, anything you spray on does not fix the issue, it just puts a disguise on it and ends up fuckin you later.

 

oh nice, good job on that one, the lowes price i found is 165 cad. and still 150 for install, i've even been quoted 300 from one place!! wtf! I been reading up on it a little, and it really doesnt seem like a big job, so ill probs do it myself. Thanks for all your help guys. And oh, while im at it... i just put some 18"s on my ride, nice chrome ones, got 225/40/18 pretty sure, and i have a bit of rubing :S anything that can help that? (sould i start new thread? new at this)

 

225 40 18 wont rub unless you have some 35 offset or some nonsence.

Ive had 225 40 18 on my car a LONG time ago with no issues


18x8.5 dazz matiz 40mm offset. 225 40 18 toyo T1-S
ground control coilovers stock struts.. bout 3 inch drop


heres an old signature, its all i got but it shows really well how the wheel sits at the fender with a camber kit