Going to have my torn CV joint replaced asap. few ?'s
08-10-2008, 11:44 PM
#1
Going to have my torn CV joint replaced asap. few ?'s
I tried to take on this project myself today to no avail. I could not remove the part with the Lug stems. looks like the wheel bearing is in front of the rotor. dumb setup. 
I am pretty sure the boot recently busted, the grease looks fresh and clean. I don;t have any vibes and everything sounds fine with the axle. Should I still have the axle replaced? Or should I just have a new boot installed?
ANything else I should look into?
How much should I expect to pay?
109,000miles 2.5
I am pretty sure the boot recently busted, the grease looks fresh and clean. I don;t have any vibes and everything sounds fine with the axle. Should I still have the axle replaced? Or should I just have a new boot installed?
ANything else I should look into?
How much should I expect to pay?
109,000miles 2.5
08-11-2008, 08:14 PM
#2
Don't think about replacing axle. Get boot repaired. Too many bad aftermarket axles are sold by all vendors. You need a manual to DIY. Following are basics:
1) Remove wheel and axle retaining nut
2) Release tie-rod ball joint
3) Release lower ball joint
4) Remove damper fork
5) Swing wheel knuckle outboard and remove axle end from brearing hub. Usually necessary to bump the axle w/ brass hammer to release or use a wheel hub puller to push the axle from the hub.
6) Pry inner end of axle from transmission or inboard bearing support w/ large screwdriver or other thin lever . You need to drain transaxle on 2.5TL Left axle removal.
good luck
1) Remove wheel and axle retaining nut
2) Release tie-rod ball joint
3) Release lower ball joint
4) Remove damper fork
5) Swing wheel knuckle outboard and remove axle end from brearing hub. Usually necessary to bump the axle w/ brass hammer to release or use a wheel hub puller to push the axle from the hub.
6) Pry inner end of axle from transmission or inboard bearing support w/ large screwdriver or other thin lever . You need to drain transaxle on 2.5TL Left axle removal.
good luck
08-11-2008, 10:02 PM
#3
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
Don't think about replacing axle. Get boot repaired. Too many bad aftermarket axles are sold by all vendors. You need a manual to DIY. Following are basics:
1) Remove wheel and axle retaining nut
2) Release tie-rod ball joint
3) Release lower ball joint
4) Remove damper fork
5) Swing wheel knuckle outboard and remove axle end from brearing hub. Usually necessary to bump the axle w/ brass hammer to release or use a wheel hub puller to push the axle from the hub.
6) Pry inner end of axle from transmission or inboard bearing support w/ large screwdriver or other thin lever . You need to drain transaxle on 2.5TL Left axle removal.
good luck
1) Remove wheel and axle retaining nut
2) Release tie-rod ball joint
3) Release lower ball joint
4) Remove damper fork
5) Swing wheel knuckle outboard and remove axle end from brearing hub. Usually necessary to bump the axle w/ brass hammer to release or use a wheel hub puller to push the axle from the hub.
6) Pry inner end of axle from transmission or inboard bearing support w/ large screwdriver or other thin lever . You need to drain transaxle on 2.5TL Left axle removal.
good luck
08-11-2008, 10:27 PM
#4
Racer
Replacing the boot is only doing half the job. If you plan on keeping the car for a while your going to be replacing the cv joint any way. Dirt and other contaminants have already found their way into the CV joint. Go to rockauto and buy new half shafts. Both the boots on my RL's joints where torn. My friend and I did it in a day. You'll thank yourself later for replacing the whole thing.
Another thing, i paid about 100 for all new boots. It will actually take longer to replace the boots, than just swapping out new half shafs. I paid about 200 for brand new half shafts
08-11-2008, 10:59 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
I've recently had my left axle changed a few months ago due to a torn boot. Now for some reason it looks like that axle is leaking oil from the transmission end. I would have a small drop of oil on the ground every morning i check. Is this a sign of a seal on the tranaxle going bad or is it because of the new axle not sitting in on the seal??
02-08-2014, 07:05 PM
#6
I am trying to replace my CV 1/2 shafts on my 98 2.5TL. Is there an easy way release the lower ball joint? I got the castle nut off the ball joint and the long bolts off the damper fork. I hit both sides of the socket where the ball joint is attached to but the ball joint is not releasing. Any advice or special tool available?
02-09-2014, 07:27 AM
#7
97 3.2TLPrem(Sold 3/7/14)
I did mine last year and I'm pretty sure I had to use a tool similar to the one attached on the Acura. I work on many vehicles so it isn't completely fresh in my 63 year old mind. As I recall, for whatever reason, I couldn't use the standard 'pickle fork' type tool that I would use on most cars.
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sanramon98 (02-09-2014)
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03-09-2014, 01:19 PM
#8
CV 1/2 shalf replacement
Just completed a bunch of repairs on my 98 2.5 TL.
I have one more question to the forum. Everything was reinstalled. The passenger side CV will not seat all the way in. Do I need to removed the seal and place it on the shaft first? Any advice is appreciated. San Ramon 98
- Changed out both CVs
- Removed and re-welded (TIG) the exhaust manifold center down pipe
- Replaced the oxygen sensor
- Replaced the brake master cylinder
- Replaced the distributor shaft O-ring
I have one more question to the forum. Everything was reinstalled. The passenger side CV will not seat all the way in. Do I need to removed the seal and place it on the shaft first? Any advice is appreciated. San Ramon 98
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