Found my leak, now what?
02-18-2008, 01:32 AM
#1
Found my leak, now what?
After detailing my motor I was able to find the source of my oil leak. It is coming from the oil filter base. I will take a pic tomorrow for future reference.
I did a search but did not enough info to really convince myself to tackle it on my own.
So, should I tackle this project myself? I can turn a wrench, I would say I am a decent "shade tree mechanic". What do ya'll think?
Is there anymore INFO? I have only heard that it is a tough job because it is such a small area.
I refuse to remove the intake manifold.
`
Opinions PLEASE!
I removed the LED's from my new clear corners and corner lamps. Amber fogs, yellowish Headlights, and blueish white LED's aren't my cup of tea.
I did a search but did not enough info to really convince myself to tackle it on my own.
So, should I tackle this project myself? I can turn a wrench, I would say I am a decent "shade tree mechanic". What do ya'll think?
Is there anymore INFO? I have only heard that it is a tough job because it is such a small area.
I refuse to remove the intake manifold.
`
Opinions PLEASE!
I removed the LED's from my new clear corners and corner lamps. Amber fogs, yellowish Headlights, and blueish white LED's aren't my cup of tea.
02-18-2008, 01:39 AM
#2
大日本帝国
Just take off the oil filter and use brake parts cleaner around the base. There's a chance that the O-ring from an old filter got stuck on there, causing the new filter to not seal properly. It was a big source of engine fires in the CR-Vs where the filter was located over the exhaust manifold. Not a problem for us.
~Cheers~
P.S. We don't have amber fogs...?
~Cheers~
P.S. We don't have amber fogs...?
02-18-2008, 08:30 PM
#3
8th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2006
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5point9limited,
My mother has the same car as you, a 1998 2.5TL. Her car dripped oil as does yours. The problem was the figure 8 shaped "O" ring behind the oil filter adapter. I too am a decent shade tree mechanic and I was determined to replace the "O" ring on my own. An Acura mechanic on this group discouraged me from doing so and I ended up letting a friend of mine who was a veteran GM mechanic do the repair for me. I remember very well the Acura mechanic insisting that I do NOT remove the intake manifold. He e-mailed me written instructions which I will post for you. As given to me by an Acura technician:
OK but its not easy it is really tight in there
but here it goes:
you say its a 98 so thats good because its a one peice cooler. well i dont think it has a cooler on the 98 but its the part that the oil filter screws onto. first get the parts you need. 1. new oil cooler oring have the dealer ship it to you please do not attempt to go to autozone or something, factory parts only.... also have them include a tube of HONDABOND.. it will be very helpful.
and you need a new filter.
ok get a can of brake cleaner and try to clean the area around the filter really well so you can see. remove the airbox and tube then the oil filter.there are 3, 10mm bolts holding the cooler in place they are in a triangle, 2 on bottom 1 on top the top one holds a wire bracket also so its more difficult, I would suggest a 1/4 rachet and a bunch of diffrent size extensions and a swivel 10mm socket. for the 2 on the bottom reach under the intake and remove them careful not to drop them. the top one is harder beacuse of the angle. i find its easier to get a long extinsion and go between the alternater and the intake or between the 1 and 2 runners of the intake. once you take out the last bolt the cooler will come off remove it from under the intake. you will notice the oring is a figure 8 type and the old one will be very hard, flat , and brittle. now that you have it off clean the cooler and the block surface very well. coat the new oring with the hondabond.. go ahead dont be stingy
it will help seal it and hold it in place for installation. place the oring in the track on the cooler and replace in opposite order. becareful that the oring does not move from the track... this is the hard part you have to place the cooler with the oring in place and start the 2 bottom bolts with 1 hand cause you cant get the other one in there to help. once you have it on there tighten the bolts ( they break easy so not over tight ) clean the area really good so you can check for leaks. install a new filter
go ahead and drain and refill the crankcase also.
reinstall the airbox and tube start car and check for leaks. if it is leaking the oring moved and you pinched it and you have to start all over... you know what you might want to order 2 orings just in case... they are cheap.like 10 bucks or something. and if you read all this and think to your self it will be easier to remove the intake and then do it .... NO NO NO its not the intake on that thing is really really difficult. more trouble than you want man trust me......
My mother has the same car as you, a 1998 2.5TL. Her car dripped oil as does yours. The problem was the figure 8 shaped "O" ring behind the oil filter adapter. I too am a decent shade tree mechanic and I was determined to replace the "O" ring on my own. An Acura mechanic on this group discouraged me from doing so and I ended up letting a friend of mine who was a veteran GM mechanic do the repair for me. I remember very well the Acura mechanic insisting that I do NOT remove the intake manifold. He e-mailed me written instructions which I will post for you. As given to me by an Acura technician:
OK but its not easy it is really tight in there
but here it goes:
you say its a 98 so thats good because its a one peice cooler. well i dont think it has a cooler on the 98 but its the part that the oil filter screws onto. first get the parts you need. 1. new oil cooler oring have the dealer ship it to you please do not attempt to go to autozone or something, factory parts only.... also have them include a tube of HONDABOND.. it will be very helpful.
and you need a new filter.
ok get a can of brake cleaner and try to clean the area around the filter really well so you can see. remove the airbox and tube then the oil filter.there are 3, 10mm bolts holding the cooler in place they are in a triangle, 2 on bottom 1 on top the top one holds a wire bracket also so its more difficult, I would suggest a 1/4 rachet and a bunch of diffrent size extensions and a swivel 10mm socket. for the 2 on the bottom reach under the intake and remove them careful not to drop them. the top one is harder beacuse of the angle. i find its easier to get a long extinsion and go between the alternater and the intake or between the 1 and 2 runners of the intake. once you take out the last bolt the cooler will come off remove it from under the intake. you will notice the oring is a figure 8 type and the old one will be very hard, flat , and brittle. now that you have it off clean the cooler and the block surface very well. coat the new oring with the hondabond.. go ahead dont be stingy
it will help seal it and hold it in place for installation. place the oring in the track on the cooler and replace in opposite order. becareful that the oring does not move from the track... this is the hard part you have to place the cooler with the oring in place and start the 2 bottom bolts with 1 hand cause you cant get the other one in there to help. once you have it on there tighten the bolts ( they break easy so not over tight ) clean the area really good so you can check for leaks. install a new filter
go ahead and drain and refill the crankcase also.
reinstall the airbox and tube start car and check for leaks. if it is leaking the oring moved and you pinched it and you have to start all over... you know what you might want to order 2 orings just in case... they are cheap.like 10 bucks or something. and if you read all this and think to your self it will be easier to remove the intake and then do it .... NO NO NO its not the intake on that thing is really really difficult. more trouble than you want man trust me......
02-18-2008, 08:45 PM
#4
Originally Posted by doctormdds
5point9limited,
My mother has the same car as you, a 1998 2.5TL. Her car dripped oil as does yours. The problem was the figure 8 shaped "O" ring behind the oil filter adapter. I too am a decent shade tree mechanic and I was determined to replace the "O" ring on my own. An Acura mechanic on this group discouraged me from doing so and I ended up letting a friend of mine who was a veteran GM mechanic do the repair for me. I remember very well the Acura mechanic insisting that I do NOT remove the intake manifold. He e-mailed me written instructions which I will post for you. As given to me by an Acura technician:
OK but its not easy it is really tight in there
but here it goes:
you say its a 98 so thats good because its a one peice cooler. well i dont think it has a cooler on the 98 but its the part that the oil filter screws onto. first get the parts you need. 1. new oil cooler oring have the dealer ship it to you please do not attempt to go to autozone or something, factory parts only.... also have them include a tube of HONDABOND.. it will be very helpful.
and you need a new filter.
ok get a can of brake cleaner and try to clean the area around the filter really well so you can see. remove the airbox and tube then the oil filter.there are 3, 10mm bolts holding the cooler in place they are in a triangle, 2 on bottom 1 on top the top one holds a wire bracket also so its more difficult, I would suggest a 1/4 rachet and a bunch of diffrent size extensions and a swivel 10mm socket. for the 2 on the bottom reach under the intake and remove them careful not to drop them. the top one is harder beacuse of the angle. i find its easier to get a long extinsion and go between the alternater and the intake or between the 1 and 2 runners of the intake. once you take out the last bolt the cooler will come off remove it from under the intake. you will notice the oring is a figure 8 type and the old one will be very hard, flat , and brittle. now that you have it off clean the cooler and the block surface very well. coat the new oring with the hondabond.. go ahead dont be stingy
it will help seal it and hold it in place for installation. place the oring in the track on the cooler and replace in opposite order. becareful that the oring does not move from the track... this is the hard part you have to place the cooler with the oring in place and start the 2 bottom bolts with 1 hand cause you cant get the other one in there to help. once you have it on there tighten the bolts ( they break easy so not over tight ) clean the area really good so you can check for leaks. install a new filter
go ahead and drain and refill the crankcase also.
reinstall the airbox and tube start car and check for leaks. if it is leaking the oring moved and you pinched it and you have to start all over... you know what you might want to order 2 orings just in case... they are cheap.like 10 bucks or something. and if you read all this and think to your self it will be easier to remove the intake and then do it .... NO NO NO its not the intake on that thing is really really difficult. more trouble than you want man trust me......
My mother has the same car as you, a 1998 2.5TL. Her car dripped oil as does yours. The problem was the figure 8 shaped "O" ring behind the oil filter adapter. I too am a decent shade tree mechanic and I was determined to replace the "O" ring on my own. An Acura mechanic on this group discouraged me from doing so and I ended up letting a friend of mine who was a veteran GM mechanic do the repair for me. I remember very well the Acura mechanic insisting that I do NOT remove the intake manifold. He e-mailed me written instructions which I will post for you. As given to me by an Acura technician:
OK but its not easy it is really tight in there
but here it goes:
you say its a 98 so thats good because its a one peice cooler. well i dont think it has a cooler on the 98 but its the part that the oil filter screws onto. first get the parts you need. 1. new oil cooler oring have the dealer ship it to you please do not attempt to go to autozone or something, factory parts only.... also have them include a tube of HONDABOND.. it will be very helpful.
and you need a new filter.
ok get a can of brake cleaner and try to clean the area around the filter really well so you can see. remove the airbox and tube then the oil filter.there are 3, 10mm bolts holding the cooler in place they are in a triangle, 2 on bottom 1 on top the top one holds a wire bracket also so its more difficult, I would suggest a 1/4 rachet and a bunch of diffrent size extensions and a swivel 10mm socket. for the 2 on the bottom reach under the intake and remove them careful not to drop them. the top one is harder beacuse of the angle. i find its easier to get a long extinsion and go between the alternater and the intake or between the 1 and 2 runners of the intake. once you take out the last bolt the cooler will come off remove it from under the intake. you will notice the oring is a figure 8 type and the old one will be very hard, flat , and brittle. now that you have it off clean the cooler and the block surface very well. coat the new oring with the hondabond.. go ahead dont be stingy
it will help seal it and hold it in place for installation. place the oring in the track on the cooler and replace in opposite order. becareful that the oring does not move from the track... this is the hard part you have to place the cooler with the oring in place and start the 2 bottom bolts with 1 hand cause you cant get the other one in there to help. once you have it on there tighten the bolts ( they break easy so not over tight ) clean the area really good so you can check for leaks. install a new filter
go ahead and drain and refill the crankcase also.
reinstall the airbox and tube start car and check for leaks. if it is leaking the oring moved and you pinched it and you have to start all over... you know what you might want to order 2 orings just in case... they are cheap.like 10 bucks or something. and if you read all this and think to your self it will be easier to remove the intake and then do it .... NO NO NO its not the intake on that thing is really really difficult. more trouble than you want man trust me......
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