Fog light MOD w/out having to rewire
07-11-2003, 01:56 AM
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Fog light MOD w/out having to rewire
i've seen a few mods were in order to get just the fog lights on with only the parking lights and not the head lights,, a very cool look.. but the mod required a bit of rewiring and taking the dash a part . well the other night i was playing with the lights in front of a stores tinted windows and discovered something very cool .. you can have the fogs turned on with out the headlights .. here's how i did it . make sure your fog light are on, and when you go to turn on the head lights , after you have turned on the parking lights .. slowly turn the knob until just the fog lights turn on, if you turn it to much the headlights will turn on.. it might just be a fluke in my car but is seems to work great.. (97 3.2 TL) and with the yellow condoms out it gives enough light for city driving.
07-15-2003, 04:43 AM
#3
Instructor
I would caution you not to do this on a regular basis.
A switch is designed to lock into a closed circuit position where both sides of contact are meeting 100%. what you're doing is moving the switch into an ab-normal position to achive this which creates small sparks on both edges of your contacts... over time this corrosion or carbon build up could create problems and what you dont want to do is end up replacing your head lamp switch which requires more labor than adding 2 crimps to do this mod in the first place.
I dont remember removing any dash to do the mod... Not like the D4 bulb replacement. Maybe there's a panel to remove but I just dont remember pulling any dash apart.
Then find the correct wires and crimp twice. It's a very simple mod. Takes just minutes.
You know, here's an example of what I'm speaking of... try this at your house (at your own risk). Using your light switch (bulb switch at home, not flourescent bulbs)... move it in between and make your bulbs dim by putting it in the ab-normal position where it's kind of touches the contacts.
You have an instant dimmer but you'll destroy your switch over time. You might even hear a small pop sounds like a small short... If you took your switch apart after this, you would see small carbon build up on the edge of the contacts. that part will no longer conduct electricity as well as before.
Granted it will take a lot of ab-use to destory the switch but it'll shorten the life considerably.
Mola
A switch is designed to lock into a closed circuit position where both sides of contact are meeting 100%. what you're doing is moving the switch into an ab-normal position to achive this which creates small sparks on both edges of your contacts... over time this corrosion or carbon build up could create problems and what you dont want to do is end up replacing your head lamp switch which requires more labor than adding 2 crimps to do this mod in the first place.
I dont remember removing any dash to do the mod... Not like the D4 bulb replacement. Maybe there's a panel to remove but I just dont remember pulling any dash apart.
Then find the correct wires and crimp twice. It's a very simple mod. Takes just minutes.
You know, here's an example of what I'm speaking of... try this at your house (at your own risk). Using your light switch (bulb switch at home, not flourescent bulbs)... move it in between and make your bulbs dim by putting it in the ab-normal position where it's kind of touches the contacts.
You have an instant dimmer but you'll destroy your switch over time. You might even hear a small pop sounds like a small short... If you took your switch apart after this, you would see small carbon build up on the edge of the contacts. that part will no longer conduct electricity as well as before.
Granted it will take a lot of ab-use to destory the switch but it'll shorten the life considerably.
Mola
07-15-2003, 07:43 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Here are the original instructions:
Rewiring Fogs
Procedure:
1. Remove cover from driver's side fuse panel. This cover is the entire end-piece of the dash. You need to open the driver's door fully to properly access this panel. It is held in place only by pressure clips. Simply pull up and out at the very bottom to start the loosening process. Gently apply pressure to the side closest to the driver and the top and the whole cover will pop out. Notice there is a long ridge on the side closest to the firewall. Make sure that side goes in first when putting the cover back on.
2. Loosen left side of driver's underdash kick panel. Although you could remove this whole piece, you only have to loosen the left side near the fog light switch to do this mod. Looking in though the opening you just made with the cover removal, you should see two brass-looking phillips-head screws. One is close to the front of the dash, one is down behind some wires holding a long thin brace in place, closer to the firewall. This is the screw you need to remove. It is the *only* screw that holds the driver's side underdash kick panel in place. Once you've removed the screw, you can loosen the left portion of the underdash kick panel by gently pulling on the piece. There are two clips at the top front, close to the bottom of the gauge cluster. You pop these clips out and the left side will come away from the dash. *This is as far as you need to remove the underdash kick panel.*
3. Unplug wiring harness to dash light dimmer switch. This is a simple plug harness that is indexed so it only goes back one way--no need to remember how it went in. This gets the cables more free for the next step.
4. Remove the fog light switch from the dash. Easiest way is to reach in from the side and grab it gently from behind (sounds like some of my dates). Squeeze gently top and bottom and push forward (towards where driver sits). The switch should pop out and be hanging by its wiring harness. Unplug the wiring harness. Press the tab in on one side of the harness and pull gently out. Set the switch aside and push the wiring harness back through the opening and bring it out through the side so you can work on it easier.
5. Spice the wires. The wiring harness consists of an inline, 5-prong plug, which is connected by five 18-20 gauge wires that are individually exposed for about an inch and then are bunched together by some rubber conduit tubing. Take the scissors or razor knife and carefully cut open the tube to expose more of the wires. You need to cut back about two inches, because you're going to want about three inches of slack to work with. Once you've cut the tubing, fan all the wires flat. You have five wires going to the harness. They are:
1. White/Blue - Ground side of indicator light (green light that shows fogs are on)
2. Blue/Red - Power to passenger side footwell relay
3. White/Red - Power from headlight switch
4. Red/Black - Power from taillight relay
5. Red - Connection to dash light brightness controller
Wire number 4 provides power to the icon on the switch whenever the lights are on (parking lights/taillights are all on one circuit). Wire number 3 provides power through the fog switch *only* if it detects the headlight switch in the low-beam position. So what we do is splice wires 3 and 4 together, thereby bypassing the headlight switch altogether. Now, whenever the taillights have power, so will this leg of the switch and the fogs will come on when the switch is pressed.
You can use whatever means you wish to join wires 3 and 4 together. Just remember you *don't* want to cut them, just splice the two together. I highly recommend an inline automotive wiring splicer (the kind that looks like a double-barrel shotgun from the end). These types of splicers are meant to be slid on over an exisiting attached wire and a second wire's free end is slid into the other side of the connector. The connector is then crimped and the latch cover is closed. However, because both of these wires are connected at both ends, if you use this type of connector you will need to drill out or punch out the solid end of the connector so both sides are completely open on each end. Then simply slide the wires into the connector, crimp the metal blade down through the wires and snap the plastic retaining tab closed. If you're good with solder you can solder in a jumper between wires 3 and 4, but that makes the mod much more permanent. I strongly recommend a two-wire inline connector and crimp.
6. Reassemble the fog light switch. Take the wiring harness from the side and push it back through the hole in the dash where the switch goes. The wiring harness for the dash light dimmer control is sort of tied with this one so you have to make sure you keep them separate and only push the fog light harness through the hole. Snap the wiring harness onto the fog light switch (it can only go one way). Then gently push the fog light switch back into the dash opening (make sure it is right-side up--green light on top, icon on bottom).
7. Replug the wiring harness into the dash light dimmer switch. Self explanatory.
8. Reattach underdash kick panel by pushing gently in area of the clips until they snap into place (remember there are two at the top, just under the gauge cluster)
9. Replace the phillips screw in the brace for the dash panel.
10. Replace driver's side fuse panel cover. Remember to start it by inserting the side closest to the firewall first. It just snaps into place.
Rewiring Fogs
Procedure:
1. Remove cover from driver's side fuse panel. This cover is the entire end-piece of the dash. You need to open the driver's door fully to properly access this panel. It is held in place only by pressure clips. Simply pull up and out at the very bottom to start the loosening process. Gently apply pressure to the side closest to the driver and the top and the whole cover will pop out. Notice there is a long ridge on the side closest to the firewall. Make sure that side goes in first when putting the cover back on.
2. Loosen left side of driver's underdash kick panel. Although you could remove this whole piece, you only have to loosen the left side near the fog light switch to do this mod. Looking in though the opening you just made with the cover removal, you should see two brass-looking phillips-head screws. One is close to the front of the dash, one is down behind some wires holding a long thin brace in place, closer to the firewall. This is the screw you need to remove. It is the *only* screw that holds the driver's side underdash kick panel in place. Once you've removed the screw, you can loosen the left portion of the underdash kick panel by gently pulling on the piece. There are two clips at the top front, close to the bottom of the gauge cluster. You pop these clips out and the left side will come away from the dash. *This is as far as you need to remove the underdash kick panel.*
3. Unplug wiring harness to dash light dimmer switch. This is a simple plug harness that is indexed so it only goes back one way--no need to remember how it went in. This gets the cables more free for the next step.
4. Remove the fog light switch from the dash. Easiest way is to reach in from the side and grab it gently from behind (sounds like some of my dates). Squeeze gently top and bottom and push forward (towards where driver sits). The switch should pop out and be hanging by its wiring harness. Unplug the wiring harness. Press the tab in on one side of the harness and pull gently out. Set the switch aside and push the wiring harness back through the opening and bring it out through the side so you can work on it easier.
5. Spice the wires. The wiring harness consists of an inline, 5-prong plug, which is connected by five 18-20 gauge wires that are individually exposed for about an inch and then are bunched together by some rubber conduit tubing. Take the scissors or razor knife and carefully cut open the tube to expose more of the wires. You need to cut back about two inches, because you're going to want about three inches of slack to work with. Once you've cut the tubing, fan all the wires flat. You have five wires going to the harness. They are:
1. White/Blue - Ground side of indicator light (green light that shows fogs are on)
2. Blue/Red - Power to passenger side footwell relay
3. White/Red - Power from headlight switch
4. Red/Black - Power from taillight relay
5. Red - Connection to dash light brightness controller
Wire number 4 provides power to the icon on the switch whenever the lights are on (parking lights/taillights are all on one circuit). Wire number 3 provides power through the fog switch *only* if it detects the headlight switch in the low-beam position. So what we do is splice wires 3 and 4 together, thereby bypassing the headlight switch altogether. Now, whenever the taillights have power, so will this leg of the switch and the fogs will come on when the switch is pressed.
You can use whatever means you wish to join wires 3 and 4 together. Just remember you *don't* want to cut them, just splice the two together. I highly recommend an inline automotive wiring splicer (the kind that looks like a double-barrel shotgun from the end). These types of splicers are meant to be slid on over an exisiting attached wire and a second wire's free end is slid into the other side of the connector. The connector is then crimped and the latch cover is closed. However, because both of these wires are connected at both ends, if you use this type of connector you will need to drill out or punch out the solid end of the connector so both sides are completely open on each end. Then simply slide the wires into the connector, crimp the metal blade down through the wires and snap the plastic retaining tab closed. If you're good with solder you can solder in a jumper between wires 3 and 4, but that makes the mod much more permanent. I strongly recommend a two-wire inline connector and crimp.
6. Reassemble the fog light switch. Take the wiring harness from the side and push it back through the hole in the dash where the switch goes. The wiring harness for the dash light dimmer control is sort of tied with this one so you have to make sure you keep them separate and only push the fog light harness through the hole. Snap the wiring harness onto the fog light switch (it can only go one way). Then gently push the fog light switch back into the dash opening (make sure it is right-side up--green light on top, icon on bottom).
7. Replug the wiring harness into the dash light dimmer switch. Self explanatory.
8. Reattach underdash kick panel by pushing gently in area of the clips until they snap into place (remember there are two at the top, just under the gauge cluster)
9. Replace the phillips screw in the brace for the dash panel.
10. Replace driver's side fuse panel cover. Remember to start it by inserting the side closest to the firewall first. It just snaps into place.
07-15-2003, 10:18 AM
#5
Wrong re-wire instructions. Ours is much simpler - just find two wires and splice them together. I just stripped them and twisted them together. Then covered them with electrical tape.
You can remove the panel to get better access to the wire bundles, but it isn't necessary.
Craig
You can remove the panel to get better access to the wire bundles, but it isn't necessary.
Craig
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07-21-2003, 10:40 PM
#10
Instructor
Originally posted by Mike89Acord96TL
Man, it took me hours.....
Man, it took me hours.....
hahahaha i remember your post when you did this!
I remember having GOOD BRIGHT light was KEY to finding the correct color coded wires.
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