Who here has rattling trunk b/c of massive subs? any of you guys use dynamat or dynamat extreme? how about other products? my trunk rattles like a mug. one more thing, how do you stop the rattling if the rattling is coming from the damn latch??

 

i have fatmat in the trunk.. double layer... it helps the road noise... im not sure if dynamat actually helps the rattles.... in order to fix rattles, everything just has to be secured down.. if it is the latch see if anything is loose, then tie it down or insulate around it...

 

i have dynamat x-treme in the trunk of my TL and it works wonders. not only does it stop a lot of rattling, it improves the sound of the subs. another thing to prevent the trunk lid from rattling is twist the rubber spacers out a lil bit on the trunk lid. also, i rapped my trunk latch with some electrical tape so the lid is held down tighter. that seemed to help too. good luck!

 

i have dynamat, it helped my rattles quite a bit but not all of it it, as my trunk still rattles, i don't think you will ever be able to completely eliminate it but contain it a lil better yes. One suggestion if ur gonna do this, do your doors around the front speakers as well..... my doors rattle but i have no more of the stuff, will sound alot better i heard some roofing amterial at lowe's can do th same thing and will be much much more cost effective. not sure the actual difference in price but i have heard its effective and much cheaper. happy trails

 

i was told "peel and seal" works but i can't find that at a home depot. nobody there knows what im talking about lol

 

if you would kindly take a pic of this on your car, i would REALLYYYYYY appreciate it!!

 

also, the two medal bars beneath the 6x9s aren't the cause of the rattle, right? b/c i looked and there is a white plastic thingy btw where the 2 intersects so i dont think its those that rattle. i think its the latch though. oh and i already put a dishwashing sponge behind my license plate.

 

I believe Lowes carries it, and Home Depot doesn't.

 

ahhh okay and how would you know? did you use this in your car too or what?

 

Nope, I plan on it though. I have heard elsewhere though (volvospeed) that is available at Lowes and not HD.

 

They are also available at HD, just depends on the location.



IF anything, do it right the first time. I wouldn't mess with P&S. They are known to not have the adhesive to stick on vertical surfaces on hotter days. Some had luck, some doesn't.



In the end, it can possibly cost more to deaden your car with P&S. One layer of dynamat extreme will be better than 2 layers of P&S. Or look for an alternative brand.

 

GS- Wheres the information to back that up? I've never heard of that happening before, but I have heard quite a few good things about P&S.

 

kk, where does dynamat go exactally?

the only thing that rattles on my car is the liscense plate.

 

dj: just go buy a dishwashing sponge and place it behind your license plate.

 

I have heard the same thing. it doesn't stick to vertical surfaces on hot weather and i live in texas.. i hear a roll of peel and seal is just 13 bucks and the cost to do the trunk with dynamat extreme is about 100 bucks or so..

 

haha, that is a good idea, but I was thinking more along the lines of buying a new lisense plate holder and screwing the plate on tighter.

 

You hear bad and good things about peel and seal. Why take the risk?

Try visiting an audio forums. The problem is the abiliy to contour over the surface. On doors, there are a lot of grooves. the P&S are made to be applied on a flat surface. Naturally, they will want to stay flat so if you bend it, they will return back to their natural shape.


Products such as dynamat extreme are not asphalt based. If anything, try to get Raamat or something. $100 for 62.5 sq feet. It's enough to do your doors and trunk and a lot more area. I would only recommend Dynamat Extreme if your wallet was big. If I had that kind of money, extreme would be my only deadener.



Even if it is cheaper to get P&S, it is not effective in the dampening area. If you want a sound barrier, you'll want to dampen. Using P&S, Original Dynamat, etc will not act as a sound barrier, or at least not effective enough. They are mass loading material that will lower the resonance of the panels. Products such at Rammat, Second skin, dynamat extreme, etc are viscoelastic based. They are easier to apply, stick better (no heat gun required, trust me, they stick), and dampens a lot better. With viscoelastic deadener, you reduce the Sound Transmission Lost better (for sound barrier). Dampen better with less weight, or save not much money to have a lot more weight and not as an effective dampening performance?

Cheap things will only cost you more in the end. Do it right the first time.


Maybe you can use P&S on the floor, but don't use it on the door or any vertical surface.

 

i had a friend who wanted to remove his dynamat extreme b/c it was weighing down his car...it was a BITCH to take off!!!

 

I bought this stuff called "Quiet Car" online and it's a paint on sound dampener. It's supposed to absorb energy and covert it to heat. I painted my whole trunk with the stuff. It DID help the noise rattling quite a bit but I think I also lost a lot of Bass...as a result I just dropped a lot of cash for a new sub. Anyone else used something similar?

 

.....

 

Yes this does happen. That Quiet Car product you are using is viscoelastic based. Converts sound into energy to act as a sound barrier.

 

so the product is no good??

 

Is is good, depending on what you want.

I personally rather get it over mass loading material like original dynamat.


Then again, I'm not all about loud bass

 

HOLLY HELL!!! So I just tried out my new sub...even with the "Quiet Car" it sounds like my whole tail in is going to shake itself off! I'm going to try the sponge thing tonight. The bass does sound more tight w/ the stuff, however. I'm upgrading my alarm (W/ pager) tomorrow. Don't want this sub to get away!