2doe

Thanks for all the help. I have a 1997 2.5 TL with 155,000 miles on it. Here are the codes that the Auto Zone tech pulled out.

-P0700

-P1706

-P0440

-P0302- It repeat twice and I think this is the misfire in Cylinder #2.

Can anyone help?

For the misfire, I changed out the Spark plug and wire. It still showed up. So i switched the #2 and #3 injector to see if it is the Injector itself. For the other codes, I think they said it was about the transmission. I was going to change the transmission filter and fluid out soon. I was thinking about the Diff. Fluid too. I don't know about that.

Other problems:

1) Before, my water would running hot and steaming from the resevoir tank. and boiling over there, if the A/c was on. This is after driving about 20 min or so. So I changed out the Thermostat and flushed the system, it seems fine now. But this showed me another problem.

Please correct me if I am wrong, standing in front of the engine, the radiator fan to the right (driver side) is the A/C Fan. and the one on the left (pass. side) is the Radiator fan.

The pass. side fan doesn't turn on at all. even if the A/C is on and I took it off and direct connect the fan to the battery and it works, so it is something else. The driver side fan, turns on when it is needed, regardless if the A/C was on or not. So this makes me think that fan is the radiator fan, but checked online it is it the A/C Fan.

2) the A/C, in this Texas Heat, I usually have my windows down and only use A/C on long trips. Recently, when I turn on the A/C the engine goes to convulsions (sp?) at idle. A week before that, On a long trip some white smoke was coming out of the vents only a little. I think I read somewhere that it means it needs a recharge. Is this right?

Thanks guys for all the help.

01tl4tl

You have a couple serious problems
The overheating - did you check the radiator for flow and general condition
repeated overheating is doom for the head gasket and possibly the head itself can be warped

Have it tested for blown head gasket
Look in the radiator for signs of oil- a grey color is a sure sign
Check the oil dipstick for water- same thing as above


The driver side fan is for cooling, the pass side is AC and cooling when needed
You probably have a bad temp sensor or fan relay- which may have contributed to the original overheating prob
since it does work hotwired, its not the fan motor

The AC- does it still blow cold or just lukewarm to hot air at you?
Thats the first sign of needs recharge
Then you can get a pressure reading off the low side while its running and go from there
When you turn AC on at idle it puts a huge strain on the engine- forcing other probs to show themself

2doe

thanks for the reply. I have check for a blown head gasket. No water in the il or vice versa. where are these sensors? by the thermostat?

Can I check the low side of the A/C myself? I probaby just recharge it. I rarely use the A/C. I like the windows down most of the time.

thanks for pointing out the fans.

01tl4tl

Use the AC or its seals dry up and all the freon leaks out killing anohter bit of the ozone layer!
Thats why its hooked into the defroster- so it gets used in the winter too!

Sensor on lower right side of radiator

If you have an AC guage you can check yourself- the temp its blowing is the first test

Send a PM with a link to this thread to fsttyms1 he really knows these cars

TexasHonda

When AC compressor is on, both fans should run all the time. Reasons for one fan not running are 1) Fuse 38 (radiator fan) in underhood fuse box open 2) radiator fan relay has failed, or 3) fan motor is bad which you have ruled out.

Fix radiator fan and then assess AC performance. Turn controls to manual, max fan, recirculate, and run engine at about 1500-2000 rpm. With car in shade and windows closed it should cool to close to 40F vent outlet termp or cooler. You may need a recharge, and you may have a leak that allowed refrigerant to escape.

It's has been a little humid here lately in Houston.

P0700 is not a specific trans code and may simply be related to the P1706 which is a specific trans fault symptoms "Fails to shift between 1st-4th or 2nd-3rd gear only or fails to shift (stuck in 4th gear). What are your symptoms? Possible reasons for fault are 1) Disconnected AT gear position switch connector, 2) open in AT gear position switch wire, or 3) faulty AT gear position switch.

The P0302 could be caused by a cracked distributor tower #2 shorting to ground, but you would have a full time miss. Is engine missing all the time? If yes, then isolate for electrical, fuel, or air leak fault. Partial EGR port blockage can cause a lean miss under some conditions. Suggest removing and cleaning EGR manifold since it's easily accessible, and probably needs cleaning anyway.

good luck

2doe

01tl4tl- Thanks for your reply. For the Fan I will check the sensor, where is the fan relay? I checked all the fuses and it still good.

-The A/C blows cold, I was just concerned for the white smoke/light mist (i guess) and the convulsions. I guess you are right about the engine showing the other problems. probably the engine is convulsioning at idle, because of the misfire. It is weird, at times it does not go into convulsions. What should the read be for the low pressure? If it is not in the red, then don't recharge it?

TexasHonda- Thanks again for your reply. For the Fans out of all the options, the relay is out? I will check the sensor and clean it if needed. I might have some gunk in there even if I just flushed out the system.

A/C, at what reading shoudl I recharge? in the Red only. I am using that gauge that comes with the recharging kit.

Tranmission codes- well the only symptom I can think of is, sometimes in the mornings the gears will not shift up right away. i got to drive slow for a few miles. I was thining the Transmission needs to "warm up". After it warms up, it is good all day. That is wy I was thinking to change out the fluid and filter. Whre is the gear position switches? So I can check it out and clean the contacts if that helps.

The misfire, I will try to get a reading after I reset it and see if it is the injector, if not then (I hate) I after to change out the disturbor and rotor. I really hate doing it, it is so hard to get to. BTW, I have clean out the EGR and it seems to accelarate much smoother. it feels great. Everyone should do it, mine had all kinds of gunk it in. Can I spray the intake cleaner in the holes? I was afraid to do it.

For the code P0440- I search it and it might be a faulty gas cap. So i going to buy another one.

Thanks everyone for checking this thread out.

TexasHonda

You can't precisely charge AC w/ low side gauge only. You need an AC manifold set w/ high and low side gauges, and even then it's not too precise. Best way to charge is strictly by weight of refrigerant, however you would need to completely discharge and use cans of refrigerant to approximate correct charge, or a refrigerant scale of some type. If I had to use only a low side gauge, I would go for a minimum of 25-30 psi, no higher w/ engine running at 1500 rpm, max fan, recirculate, w/ car in shade. Pressure will rise quickly when compressor cycles off perhaps to 45-50 psi before compressor kicks in a starts to pull low side down again. This charging method assumes the high side is OK, not a given but that is basis of low side charge only.

Relays are mounted on the condensor fan (driver's side) upper shroud. Wire colors for radiator fan are wht, yel, wht/blu, & lt grn/yel.

You need to clean the intake manifold EGR holes also. I use a small screwdriver and throttle body cleaner.

The miss could be fuel or fire. This will take a bit of diagnosis to resolve. I sometimes use a timing light on the missing cylinder to see if spark is missing at idle. You will see a "gap" in the light flash if the spark is being interrupted.

I agree w/ your plan on the transmission. Drain fluid, remove pan and replace inlet screen, and refill w/ ~ 3 qts of Honda ATF. Keep up w/ bolt lengths and assigned holes to avoid confusion/angst.

I would fix some of the other problems before worrying about P0440. Just tightening the cap till 3 clicks may eliminate the problem.

good luck

2doe

Thanks guys,

for The transmission, I will change out the fluid and filter as soon as it stop raining. The transmission takes 3 1/2 quarts of Honda Transmission fluid right? Where is the A/T Gearswitch? I will look for it when I change the fluid out.

For the P440, I will see if I will get another gas cap. Hopefully it works.

For the A/C fan, I ruled out the fan motor and fuse. Is there a way to test the Fan relay? It will cost about $38 shipped from Acura.

For the A/C, It works but from time to time I got to lower the temp down to get a constant cool. maybe I will just recharge it with one of those all-in ones- cans. Can overcharging it hurt?

Finally for the misfire, I will see about the injector and if not the injector then I will change out the distributor and rotor.

Let me know if I can do any more. By the way I think I will need another radiator. I see water on the shround and residue of anitfreeze on the edges of the top part of the radiator. Any ways to seal? glue? high temp silcone? thanks guys.

I will always change out my starter too. I love my car but hate it at the same time.

TexasHonda

Replacement AT fluid is 2.9 qts.

Suggest buying a manual.

AT Gear Position Switch is the switch operated by AT gear selection in the console.

Relay is tested by driving the energizing coil w/ 12V or check that 12V is present when AC should be on. If not relay is bad. Circuit diagram is handy for this.

AC overcharging can damage the compressor and cause the pressure relief valve to open and vent charge. Suggest getting help on charging as a AC manifold set is necessary to approximate correct charge w/o discharging and charging by weight.

Radiator leak will require a new part to repair. Epoxy or other sealants will not seal cracks or seam leaks.

good luck

2doe

Thanks Texas. I changed out the relay and both fans work!!!

The radiator leak was really a bad radiator cap. Changed that out.

Changed out the gas cap.

All I got left is change out the Tranny Fluid and filter, and figure out the misfire.

I think I will leave the A/C alone unless, it runs out of cold.

Thanks for everything guys. I will keep you guys updated on the rest of my problems and fixes.

Next change out the starter, and muffler. fix the cig. lighter and maybe change out the diff. fluid

TexasHonda

I posted a pretty good description of starter replacement on 2.5TL recently. It's not an easy job, but is manageable.

good luck

sbuswell

When I was driving home today from work and got on the highway I noticed my D4 light wasn't on. I looked at the gear selector and my car was between 3-4 gear, but almost fully into D4. I pushed it forward a little and it engaged fully and the D4 light came on. The car was driving normally, accelerating fine and its rpm's were right where they should have been like I was in 4th gear. A few miles later my CEL comes on and I'm thinking its the same damn P0420 code(need to get the spacer installed for the 02 sensor because of my RT Cat). I got home and scanned the codes and got P0420 of course and P1706. I'm thinking what the hell code is P1706. I figured it was tranny related, but not a common code. I cleared the codes and took a drive and the car is driving and shifting perfectly. No issues whatsoever. Do you guys think it's an anomaly and should the car even accelerating if it's not fully in gear?

Go90go

^ It should just be an anomaly. Once, though, I did that in my 95 Civic, and it drove like crap. I was flooring it and not moving much. I looked down and realised it was in between. Once I pushed it into D3, it ran fine.

~Cheers~

P.S. How much do the spacers cost? I've seen the L-shaped ones go for alot more than the straight style. Straights were around $20, IIRC.