Hi,
I took my car to the dealer and they told me that there is an internal bleed in the ABS unit and its going to cost me $1,500 to repair. Well the service told me to not worry about it unless i'm driving in a bad climate.
If there a way that i can RESET the ABS unit or make it completely go away. I heard something about removing the fuses...but which ones? Will removing the fuse mess up the car. Thanks

 

the abs fuse is near the passenger headlight.

 

Removing the ABS fuse or ABS relay will permanently disable the ABS, but won't turn off the ABS light permanently. If you'll get the ABS error code by shorting the service check connector (under glove box) and reading the ABS light flashes, I'll try to provide some help. Code/s will be flashed by turning keyswitch to ON w/ service check connector shorted. ABS codes are flashed with all short flashes. First series of short flashes is for 10's digit, 1 second pause, and 2nd series of short flashes for units digit. So FFFF-FF is code 42. You could have multiple codes separated by a 5-second pause, or same code will be repeated.

You also need to advise what year and model. They have different modulators on 2.5 and 3.2 models, and perhaps different modulators for different years.

Some ABS faults are easily remedied, however some faults such as an internal leak can not be fixed by DIY or shop and the entire modulator must be replaced. However, even in this worst case, you can usually find a decent used modulator at a reasonable price through car-part.com or ebay.

First step is to get the ABS code that is stored. This will provide guidance on the problem.

good luck

 

Or.. You can remove the power cable that connects to the ABS fuse holder.
It is located on the underside of the main fuse box (engine compartment) power cable.

1st disconnect the neg battery cable. Then you disconnect the cable at the ABS fuse box.

That is what I did. I don't think ABS is all that important. We did without it in the past.

No! It won't mess up the car but, be warned.

If the ABS is not used for a long period of time (I do not know how long it takes) it will seize. And if you want to use it again it will require that the whole system be repaired.

So choose wisely. If you can do without, then by all means. Take it out.

****The dash light will stay on.****

 

Did the dealer charge to diagnose the ABS issue ? I took mine to a dealer and he wanted 65 bucks to just diagnose the issue - can't belive they charge that much to short the service connector and read the codes....

 

I removed my abs fuse a year ago and its the best thing I ever did. No more annoying sound when starting the car. The abs light automatically comes on. The fuse box under the hood is the one u want. Open the box and you'll see a chart telling u which fuses control abs. There a few and I don't remember which one exactly so experiment. Pull one out and turn on the car. If the abs light comes on immediately without that annoying sound then it was the right fuse.

 

I have also pondered whether ABS is a desirable or "nice to have" feature. Obviously it is not absolutely necessary.

I believe it is desirable because panic braking is a reflex movement that happens too fast for judgement. Who has the quick thinking to not jam the brake fully when you look from your rear view mirror to ahead and find that traffic has come to a complete halt while you were staring into the rear view mirror! It's this circumstance where ABS shines. It prevents a total lockup and loss of steering control. Even w/ maximum braking effort you can steer the car left/right,..not possible if the wheels are slidiing due to locked brakes.

For most of my life I never had ABS. Now that I have a car equipped w/ ABS, I want it to work, and think others should also.

Regards

 

I have had to use ABS before (several times actually) and I can say that 99% of the time it doesn't do anything. But when you need it, you really need it.

My most recent example:

It was raining lightly. I was coming up on a large SUV or something, obscuring my view of the road immediately ahead. Suddenly it jumped to another lane, revealing a stalled car right ahead. I myself could not change lanes because of other cars. I had to hit the brakes hard and managed to swerve out of the way of the stalled car at the last second (after the guy off my tail in the other lane went past). If it wasn't for ABS, I probably would have skidded into the stalled car. You lose steering control when you're skidding and even very good drivers have a hard time not locking up the wheels in wet conditions.

That's my on ABS.

 

Wackjum,

Well in the old'n days. We had no ABS. Back in the 80's ABS was a pipe dream only realized by the rich.
Gas was a dollar, bread cost 50 cents and cars were 100% metal. Most of us drove by the seat of our pants hoping that a Volkswagon Beatle woud'nt slow us down in the fast lane.
We had to drive by our wits without electronic gadgets to save our behinds. If we made a bad move. It was game over and straight too the morge.
And that made the drive real. When you knew that one mistake was all that you could make.
So take the ABS out. Remove the air bags and loosen that seat belt.
Drive real!

 

I nominate your post best of 1st Gen 2006.

The year's not over yet, but I think the winner is obvious.

Oh BTW I kept it real for a while. My first car was a Fox body 'stang. 100% metal. RWD. No electronics to gum up the experience. It was just your ass and four wheels (also had no AC). Thundering 150 hp 5.0 V8. Builds character.

 

1997 Acura CL 5-Speed 2.2L

My ABS light comes on if I turn the car on and sit for about 2 to 4 minutes without doing anything. I have checked the sensors and they all look fine. The modulator looks fine with no leaks observed.

I jacked the car up and put it on jack stans. I had the from when held while I cautiously turned the other wheel. Each time and for each front wheel being turned separately, the light came on after about 2 to 4 minutes.

Do I have a problem other than the wheel sensors?

 

^ anything that related to abs..if you can give us the code we'll glad to help.

and this is the 1st gen tl forum

 

I am having similar problems with my '96 Tl (3.2).

My ABS pump would grind and then cut out for months. Then it stopped. And the ABS light went into permanent "ON" mode. I was content to live with it until I thought about trading it in. The dealer wanted $2,000 to fix the problem, which he diagnosed as a bad modulator/compressor.

"F that," I thought. So I went on line, bought a remanufactured one, had it tested, made sure it worked, and had my regular mechanic install it. And - you guessed it - the ABS light is still on.

Suggestions?

 

ABS is simple to repair,...if you extract the ABS code and ask for help. W/O the code, no one can help.

good luck

 

I had similar symptoms on my 96 2.5TL. My Honda/Acura Independent service guys replaced modulator/compressor for about $800. Glad I got it done for peace of mind/safety. Our cars are over 12 years old now and to keep them running right maintenance is to be expected, but damn those upkeep bills hurt!

 

I have a 96 Acura 2.5 TL
Last week the ABS light came on and a 1/2 hour later the charge light came on.
Any clues?
Also, does anybody know what these 3 connections are for on the voltage regulator,there are 2 from the PCM and
1 from the ABS contol unit. Both, go to the regulator inside the alternator and knowing their purpose might help me troubleshoot.
I would love any input.
Thank you!!