Crazy Bimmer

Have you done any major repairs or even major maintenance?

My old man decided he wants to keep his 02 RL till it blows up. We havent done much to it beside oil changes, tires, brakes and a coolant flush. Hes had it since new.

It has 101k miles now... what needs to be done to make sure it makes it to 200k?

I knew theres routine maintenance thats in the manual but not sure how many of you with over 100k miles follow it.

SPUDMTN

Here's everything out of the ordinary that has been done on my vehicle (in detail).

I've got around 115k on mine. Just recently had the Check Engine Light come on--had the EGR cleaned out when it went in for its oil change at the beginning of this month.

At 102k the upper control arm was replaced because it was squeaking a bit. Have had the SRS light come on a couple of times--warranty covered ths as it was the OPDS (occupant position detection system) which Honda has extended the warranty on.

At 89k or so the climate control blower motor started squeaking like a mouse intermitently. Went ahead and replaced the motor.

At 86k the transmission was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd. The valve body, springs and o-rings were replaced and a transmission flush was done.

83k required the radio headunit to be replaced. The steering-wheel mounted controls send a signal to the headunit that triggers a tiny motor to physically turn the knob up or down. That motor failed. Required the whole headunit to be replaced.

Was dealing with a check engine light and after a few trips to the dealer, finally determined all 6 fuel injectors needed to be replaced. This occurred at 74k.

Looks like I've had O2 sensors replaced 2 times (69k & 73k).

Rearview mirror has been replaced becaue the autodimming was failing--a line appeared in the mirror (63k).

Everything prior to this was routine maintenance.

---

That's the bulk of it. I'd recommend just following Acura's recommended scheduled maintenance. My parents followed it (they were the original owners) and I plan on following it as well. Don't let the dealer dupe you into doing anything extra.

Car runs great and is still solid. I recently moved to Michigan and the roads are testing the car for rattles--only have one or two that require a serious jarring. Have had a number of emissions problems, but nothing that has stranded me.

Crazy Bimmer

Oh wow, we havent had any of those issues yet. Funny too since my old man doesnt baby the car AT ALL.

From new to now the only issue was that our navigation screen failed around 45k miles. Warranty replaced that.

But thanks for posting, now i know what to look out for.

Ken1997TL

Well.. I have the '97 TL still. Its at 181,000

Same transmission as the RL and several other similar components..

The heater recently went out, turned out to be a particularly stubborn air pocket that was trapped. The starter went out a few years ago, the RL has a more reliable one.

Transmission shifts smoothly, engine itself is great and still turns out 15% better gas mileage than the EPA claims i'll get (and thats with E10 gas ) These are really reliable cars. Tell him to take care of it and it'll go another 100k with few issues. Far cheaper than car payments month after month

The '02 RL is at 41k with zero issues.

Crazy Bimmer

Yep, im amazed by it too. Still drives as new with no rattles.

He said he wanted to keep it and i had no argument not to.

This has been the longest hes ever kept a car.

Ken1997TL

No rattles? I believe it.

As mentioned in other threads today, I drove through frozen, unplowed, rutted hell today in the RL. When I reached the land of no snow, I washed it off and it drove just fine without a rattle. Smoothly, quietly and with confidence as an RL should.

These were some vicious ruts too. Imagine driving down a road pothole after pothole for 40 miles or so. Ok, so I'm not in Michigan but its something similar..

SPUDMTN

Just flew back into Portland today. The roads here are worse than they are back in MI (with snow, that is).

With that said Michigan roads blow no matter what time of the year .

Dirty D

About to hit 180000. Nothing major. Just the routine stuff in the book.

Jimmay

Besides routine maintenance, the only things i have done to my RL, has been replaced both front half-shafts, new radiator( mine had a crack on the top), and i had an abs wheel speed sensor go out. Other than that i love my car, i used to beat the hell out of it when i first got it, but not so much now. These cars are built to withstand nuclear war.

SeamusNH

I bought a 96 RL in early 2000 with 46k on it. Drove it for 8 years and another 205k (mostly highway) getting to 251k when the main seal failed. Other than the usual maintenance (ex timing belt), not too much went wrong. Main relay failed once. I replaced the radiator. One wheel bearing. That was about it.....

yangsta

Nothing major for me also. Just the main oil changes and what not. My 99RL is currently @ 120k.

Big Green Acura

Mine has 136K on it and still going strong. The only thing that bugs me is the plastic covers that hold the seat adjustment switches on both sides have broken now. They are under $50 to fix if I remember correctly. I did get an oil leak in my rear view miror once, I got a new one for $100 off ebay. Everything else was routine stuff.

new2acura

I bought my '99 with just under 90k on it, and it's now up to about 125k. In the almost 3 years I've had it, the most expensive repair I had done was having the water pump and timing belt replaced (routine maintenance). I have also had the rear passenger caliper lock up on me twice (one covered under warranty), and I just found out that I have a small crack in my radiator. Other than that, runs like a dream.

2000RL

New2acura, I'm wondering if the "small" crack in your radiator appeared before or after you had the water pump/timing belt maintenance done?

new2acura

After. I had the water pump/timing belt replaced about a year ago, and the crack is recent.

SeamusNH

A lot of the RLs have had cracks in the top housing of the radiator. Mine was on the front vertical face of the top radiator housing, extending from near the radiator cap towards the battery. The OEM radiators have a plastic top. A weak design or some bad parts. Happens to a lot of owners. I bought a new radiator off ebay for $175 and put it in myself.

2000RL

I was just curious. It's a noted problem on Acura websites that the RL's plastic radiator cap will develop a cracks. I was wondering how widespread this is and if these cracks begin to show up after the required timing belt replacement is done or before it's done. While the radiator cap is plastic it is well mounted and cushioned so other than front end collisions or careless mechanics I'm wondering what causes the cracks. You can't rule out a bad batch of caps but it does leave me wondering. I have 88k on my 2000 and am not looking forward to have this maintenance performed that's for sure.

Rower4VT

Radiator crack:
It's common to get a hairline crack right above where the throttle cable bracket mounts to the radiator. Poor design in my opinion. I got a crack at about 100k. Such a small leak and so high in the system that you don't have to worry about overheating, however it will cause an air bubble in the system that may make your heater work erratically. I fixed mine with "plastic weld" about 15k miles ago and no leak since. I also mounted the throttle cable bracket to another location to remove the stress on the crack.

Over 100k:
Mine's pretty low miles for a '97.
90k - New timing belt.
95k - Filled and drained trans 4-5 times (can only do 3 qts at a time...drove it hard between changes).
Definitely drain & fill trans every 5-10k miles with Honda/Acura ATF. It's cheap insurance and it keeps the trans shifting like butter.
100k - re-greased and booted lower, front ball joints.
115k - (yesterday) Flushed brake system, abs system, and power steering.
Make sure you use Honda PS Fluid. You can use normal DOT3 for brakes and abs. Also drained and filled trans, and did an oil change.
Running like it's brand new.

DasTeknoViking

1st off I would do a timing belt on it and replace the spark plugs with OEMs. Also while doing the belt it would be wise to do a thermostat as its RIGHT there and shouldn't require any extra labor.

Another thing that you need to watch out for is radiators, they do crack and since this is a C-Series motor- head gaskets. Don't believe what you hear, C35 is NOT immune to head gasket failures like someone mentioned here in a Legend thread that got closed. I've personally done same amount of RLs as I have older 1st gen TLs or 2nd gen Legends. You overheat it, you blow headgaskets- eventually.

EGR port has to be cleaned around 100K miles, more often if you use 87 octane gasoline. This car be pricey...

Instrument cluster bulbs burn out and leave you with patchy looking dark gauge cluster.

Lower ball joints squeak...

Overall these cars are VERY reliable. I actually swapped a C35 motor into my 94 Legend LS sedan as it was cheaper than the C32. Required some customization but it looked 100% stock. Let me know if you got any Qs.

Mike

chitownRLer

yeah, I've had to replace radiator on mine as well

chitownRLer

good post mike, you are dead on. Hey does that egr port get rid of the P0420 code do you know? or related?

chitownRLer

Hey Crazy,

everyone is right about everything in this post. I'd start w/ timing belt/waterpump then tune up/sparkplug these two, for sure. search my threads, if you wannt save some money. I noticed that you are from chicago area and there is a Car X in Mundelein, with craaaazy special on timing belt/water pump replacement for like $450, with OEM parts. this is normally $1200 plus job at dealership. its worth the trip...i know many people who have taken their cars to this Car X. They are not your typical $hitty carx. They are very honest. I'd take my car there if i needed the timing belt right now w/o any qualms.

http://www.carx.com/CarxStoreLocator...5/Default.aspx

call there and tell them you are calling about the winter time timing belt/water pump special for $450.

DasTeknoViking

wow 450 for a timing belt ? Make sure it includes a new balance shaft belt. Thats a pretty crazy deal, parts alone are about 300 dollars if I remember correctly. The Water pump is 180ish, timing belt is 30ish plus the gasket for the thermostat housing to the water pump which is 2 bux, balance shaft belt 20ish, then you got all 3 drive belts and coolant which will bring it up to around 300 dollars.

RL timing belt is much more time consuming than a Integra or a Civic. Its the 2nd worst belt to do on a Acura, NSX holds the 1st place.

I would be VERY weary of this CarX deal. This job even for the fastest guy out there is still about hour n half.

AS for your P0420 code, its NOT related to the EGR port bein clogged up. If its clogged, then you WILL get a P0401 code right away.

What year RL do you have ? Cats are covered for 8/80 on the 98-09 RLs. 96 and some 97 have that 14 year emission extenssion which covers the car for 150K miles or 14yrs whichever comes 1st.

chitownRLer

yeah das, call there and see foryourself...I belive its normally 900-1000 they charge. this is wintertime special only! with oem parts... not sure if its still going on even...its 1200 job at mcgrath acura.

mine's 2000. i called mcgrath and napleton acura and they both told me that cat. convt on my car is 8 yr, 80k, im SOL...So you are thinking that my code is Cat. Conv???

DasTeknoViking

let me know if you need the WP and belts done.... we can try the P0420 fix also - see your other thread.

chitownRLer

das, are you a mechanic??? Im pretty sure that its my o2 sensor. I researched it and that is my conclusion. Also, i been burning more fuel than normal, which is symptom of bad 02 sensor.

Audax

'01 RL with roughly 280K KM on it and the biggest issue has been the rear shock absorbers are no longer functioning.

Recently replaced the radiator as well.

sr4dt

I was having the WP/TB done and they found that black plastic / silicone gluey stuff from the Cam sensor had melted out and dripped onto the oil filter and engine.
Anyone else seen this happen ?


Technician from the Acura dealership said that they see this all the time on the 1G RL but don't change it until the computer throws a code. However I had my garage put in a new one. Added an additional $200 to the work.
Those of you planning for the TB/WP should keep this in consideration.

drenj

im at 166k and all ive done so far is just oil changes and timing belt and changed the tranny oil just incase.!

mlloyd1

wow, i feel like the odd man out. i've got a 99RL and i've been less than happy. however, my previous car, 88 Legend L coupe, was a REALLY tough act to follow. i still miss it.
i've got 140K miles now. i've had a few of the cracked radiator/erratic heat issues, calipers seizing multiple times, etc. i had an engine rebuild (cracked cylinder head) at 125K and the car, although it never really ran great, has never been the same since. as with all my vehicles, i've maintained it according to the guidebook. however, i agree with the "no car payments is good" comment earlier; so far the repairs have not exceeded my "unacceptable pain" threshold, but they've been pretty d@~n close. this is most likely my last acura.
oh well ...

good luck!
mlloyd1

SPUDMTN

Seized rear calipers here and the front ones make a clicking noise on occasion. Pretty sure they're going to need replacing here soon.

Rear struts are starting to leak as well.

DG 96 RL

Bought my 96 RL from my brother-in-law at about 160k. Now up to 264k. One of the problems I've had was the rear calipers locking up. If yours go, buy replacements with a lifetime warranty as they locked up again about 2 years later. Check engine light came on a couple of times due to EGT being plugged. Cost about $400 each time to fix - mostly labor. Car was really very reliable up to 240k. Then had to replace the alternator and idler pully, followed by radiator at 260k and today ignition coils and O2 sensor (obviously not covered under that 14 yr 150k warranty). Otherwise its just been routine maintenance. Not sure if I want to push it to 300k or look for another late 90's RL with mid 100k mileage and start all over again?!?!?!

Konstant_Elevationz

Just bought a 96 RL pearl white w/grey, needs a little work which i dont mind cause i plan to keep it a long while (no car note here). I didnt know about the extended warranty on the RL's. I owned a 02 CL type-S which was great until the tranny tripped on it around 76k, found out about that extended warranty on the net to. woo hoo acura forums. theres a lot of great knowledge on here.

As far as issues, i took it to the mechanic and he found the rear main seal leaking right by the exhaust manifold, power steering hoses leaking, and rear shocks are gone. Also the previous owner pulled out the factory radio and cut a whole in the dash, theres glue everywhere and the clock doesnt work, im going to replace everything with factory and get it back to like new w/o the gaping whole in the dash

SeamusNH

I don't have the clock (sold it), but I have the stock radio from my 96. Works fine. Picture here:
http://www.geocities.com/acurarl96/AcuraRL96.html

Contact me directly at seamusnh@gmail.com if interested...

Fabvsix

I purchased my 2004 RL brand new with only 2 miles on the odo. Today she is soon to turn 5 years old with a whopping 20,900 miles. Should I be concerned about tranny oil, coolant and brake fluid as I only drive her on Sundays when the weather is flawless as she's never seen a dirt/gravel road or been in the rain......

Ken1997TL

Change all three, you should change them every 4 or 5 years for best results. Its not JUST about mileage.