Hello. Im going to be adding one 12 inch Infinity sub and an amp. I was wondering if anyone that has done a sub/amp install on a RL had any tips to share. IE running wires, where to hook things up. I want this to be a nice and clean install. Thanks

 

I am currently running two Audiobahn AW06T 12" subs in a sealed box, with 2,000 watts going to each. I am using an Optima battery, and a Stinger 5 farad cap. Even with the Cap and battery it still dims the lights in the car. Running the wires is a PITA.

 

Im going to see if my car can handle the sub without dimming the lights, if it cant then im going to buy a capacitor. I herd i can hook up the sub to the rear 6x9s on the deck to get sound? How do i do this. I plan on running the wires through the channel on the drivers side, most likely where you have ran yours.

 

My audio guy used the amp connects to the amp in the rear trunk area to get the signal and remote wires hooked up. It sounds real nice. My power cables are ran all through the car. The power cabel was a real PITA according to him.

 

wow. Im glad thats over. The power cord was the biggest PITA. Just trying to find a place to get it through the firewall. I tried making the install as clean as possible. It sounds good, and im still breaking it in. I had the whole back seat out and deck out. If anyone would care for pictures ill post some.

 

I am always down to see how the trunks are bumpin.

 

Its still in the break in period so i havent really been able to turn it loose yet, but it sounds pretty good. I eventually want to get an L7, and this is just my starter sub.

 

Where on the firewall did you end up feeding a wire? I can only find a hole on the firewall on the passengers side. If you have time to get a pic of your firewall with the wire, that would be great. Have you noticed certain spots that rattle.

 

OK...i might and most likely will get flammed for this, i ran the power cable down through a gap in the front driver fender, then down the door and into the cable channel. I drilled a hole through the metal lip to run the cable, and then painted the exposed metal with touch up paint so it doesnt rust.
Depending on how you hook up the sub to get an audio signal, you may just want to remove the back seat. This would of saved me and my friend about 30 minutes because we where trying to find the speaker wires, which are only accessible with the rear deck and seats removed.
Now i have noticed three rattles, one is outside the car, and is in the rear bumper. I cannot find the source and i really dont care, as i am not outside my car when im driving to hear it. The second one i cannot find and it may just be my change in ash try, but you can only slightly hear it when you turn the music up. Now i know what the third one is. On the drivers side rear, behind the bumper, there is a "flap" that lets the air out when you close the trunk, doors and such. The sub causes the flaps to open because the changing air pressure in the trunk. If you would like to know anything else you can IM me on AIM or send me a PM. Just PM me for my screen name.

 

I pulled the door panels off, and put Dynamat extreme inside all 4 doors, and in the trunk. Makes a huge difference...but don't go for the knock-off stuff...the real deal Dynamat with the foil/silver front surface is the way to go.

 

My RL rattles alot when I get the subs pounding also. I destroyed the trunk lid with my old setup and it came off. I think that rattle from under if it is the same as mine may be the exhaust system. My entire car shakes and rattles, but it sounds amazing inside, and in front of it. You can heart it from a few blocks away. The way my power cable was run it went under the car and has a protective metal sheild welded up for it. That door cable is dangerous if it snage in a hinge.

 

man the power cord is horrible the RL is very tite u must drill a hole to get it thru its risky but not to bad
remember to buy an amp with high low inputs so u can run the sound into the amp thru ur 6x9's if u dont do it this way ull have to buy a low pass converter and based on my experience they are not better thn the one built in the amps.
by the way im running a 2008 Kicker L7

 

Yes yes i know the power cord is horrible. I plan on re running it in the spring, and im thinking about running it under the car and drilling a hole into the trunk. I have also fried that kicker and im running a Polk Audio sub.

 

no holes in the firewall? haha

i was wondering if im going to use the stock deck with subs and an amp. On my civic i used a hi-low to rca converter and tapped the wires coming from the deck. is it possible to tap the wires at the 6x9s? or should i just tap the wires from the deck with the rl???

 

Yes you can tap the wires off the 6x9s.

 

the wires of the 6x9s, are they wrapped in black plastic and black shrink tubing?

 

nevermind just looked at the repair manual pdf lolz...

 

4000 watts at 13.8 V is 290 A. Theres not a chance in hell that your stock alternator can keep the battery topped off and provide that amount of power. No wonder your lights dim.

To the OP:

As for the positioning of your sub, thats one of the worst spots. If you're looking to keep it in the trunk, one of the rear corners would work better as you'd get a corner loading effect.

On another note, in your house do you put a sub in the room beside the one you're listening to music in?

You might have better luck firing directly into the cabin over wasting all of that acoustic energy rumbling the trunk to pieces as Big Green has done previously.

 

wow i have to worst luck with subs. I blew my Polk Audio, then i bought an Alpine Type R....it seized after 2 weeks! I returned it to best buy and according to the Geek Squad, it was still "good." I ordered 2 12'' Pioneer Premiers...each is 1400watts peak, 400 rms. I cant wait...im hoping i dont blow these. Im also rerunning my power cord. Ill post pictures when everything is said and done.

 

wht no holes in the firewall... yall coming up with some weird under the car/doorjams lol... 4g through the firewall.... i can post pics if yall interested

 

Ok, i finally did everything the good way. I was looking around on the legend forums and i found out how they did their sub installs. If you take out the inner fender well, there is a boot that goes in behind the fuse block. I put my power cable (4 gauge) through it and then went around the hole with silicon. I then ran it through the wire channel. The Pioneers hit hard. I need a capacitor but i need some other things first. For 75 dollars a piece, you cant go wrong. Photobucket is not cooperating right now, but i will post pics later.

 

yeah if you have some pis of where and how u ran the power cord thru the firewall that'd be great... my baby amp just got here and I want to wire it properly so in abt a month or two drop I can drop sumthin serious in here

thanx

 

you need to take out your inner fender well to do this. You also need to remove the wiper reservoir. There will be a boot with a bunch of wires running through it. I shoved mine through that by cutting a small hole in it. Youll also need to take out the kick panel and unscrew the fuse block to allow you to get at the power wire. The hardest part was getting the boot back on. It may sound like a lot but its not. I also have my subwoofer amps remote wire hooked to the factory amps remote wire. Here are some pictures. The subs hit hard, and get all the low notes. They can take alot. I only paid 75 for each. They sound better in my explorer though because of the after market head unit. If you have anymore questions just ask.

DSC_0002-1.jpg?t=1246730471

 

Come on Hillbilly hook up here! Run the damn blue wire up under carpet and through the steering column hole. Do it right! It's not hard. As far as diming lights. Try upgrading your grounds! It will solve the problem than upgrade you alternator 250 worth every penny in long run. By upgrading alternator 250 in bucket your saving 1500 latter when you fry your ecu and burn up ABS sensors and so on. Would like you like to touch a eletrical fence? No than how do you think you eletrical componets feel everytime you bass surges the power to them?

 

If you knew how to read you would see that i have redone the power cable and ran it under the carpet, but i dont know how smart running the power cable near the steering linkage would be? As far as this sentence goes "It will solve the problem than upgrade you alternator 250 worth every penny in long run"...im not sure what to make of it. I think your telling me to upgrade my alternator, but im not sure because your sentence doesn't make sense. Maybe you should have paid more attention in English class. I have added a capacitor and my lights don't dim anymore. Thanks for your useless input

 

I was looking to do the same thing and was wondering where the factory amp is. Is it the silver box with the "A" written on it behind the passenger rear seat? If so which wire is the remote?
Thanks

 

Also did you end up tapping into the 6x9's with either the amp with high level inputs or a high-low convertor or did you go from the back of the HU and use a hi-lo convertor?
Thanks

 

The remote wire for the stock amp is yellow and blue. I assume no responsibility for this, i am just telling you what the repair manual says. I had a line out converter but after today it is all gone. I now have an aftermarket HU and it is amazing. Ill post pictures tomorrow.

 

I finally have an aftermarket headunit in my car and I didnt have to buy the lexus dash kit. I forgot where i found out about the dash kit but its from a company called Beat-Sonic. They are stationed in Japan. The unit cost 180 shipped(I know thats ALOT) but hey, it looks nice. The headunit is a Pioneer AVH- P3100. It can play dvds cds and has a usb port and charges and controls the ipod. The worst thing about this system was bypassing the factory amp. But after that was done...WOW. This system is as loud as my other one at 15.

 

did you have to upgrade the component speakers? or is the deck running in conjunction with the stock bose amp?

 

I had to bypass the stock amp so i took it out of the car. No sound was coming out of the speakers so i figured I had to bypass it. It took about half an hour.