DIY: Fixing the Trunk Knocking Sound
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
DIY: Fixing the Trunk Knocking Sound
This is a Do It Yourself guide for anyone who needs to fix the sound of something heavy sliding around in the trunk and hitting the wall. The first few times I heard this sound, I thought it was just something sliding around in the trunk. The problem was actually a bit more serious than that. The problem lies in a stabilizer bar that is in a cavity that is in the trunk lid.
Difficulty Level: Moderate to Advanced
Step 1: Confirm the Problem
You can actually find out whether or not you have this issue by slowly opening and closing the lid of the trunk and listening for a slight amount of movement coming from the part of the trunk that is closest to the rear window.
Step 2: Remove the Trunk Lid Carpet Cover
This is fairly straightforward. You should take a tool like this (http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/7...nel-b-font.jpg) and remove all the black clips that hold the carpet onto place. If you do not have this tool already, I recommend that you buy one, just because it will minimize the amount of clips you break. Often, if done with a screwdriver, the clips are more prone to break on you.
After this is done, this is what you should see.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4964_zps29c6863e.jpg)
The problem lies in the cavity on the bottom.
Step 3: Fashion the Tool
This is so you can hold the stabilizer bar closest to you as you drill through the bar so you can place screws in. Just simply get a pair of vice grips and a decent sized allen wrench and put it together like this.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4961_zps71817305.jpg)
After you do that, you can place it in the holes and grab onto the stabilizer bar like this.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4963_zpsd06a2460.jpg)
Step 4: Drill the Holes
Choosing the size of the drill bit depends on the size of the screws you want to put in. I chose to use 1/4"-20 screws which is a quarter-inch in diameter and 20 threads per inch of screw. If you use a 1/4"-20 screw, your cutting drill size will be a #7. I recommend using a smaller drill size just to get through first and then make the hole larger with the #7 bit. You must only drill through the stabilizer bar and not hit the trunk. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH THE TOP PART OF THE TRUNK! It helps you have one person to hold the allen wrench tool while you do the drilling. When drilling, it helps to have a finger extended to when you get through the stabilizer bar, your finger hits the trunk before the drill hits the trunk lid.
Step 5: Using the Tap
This part is pretty easy. Use the 1/4"-20 tap to make the treads though the stabilizer bar for your screws.
Step 6: Putting in the Screws
Use a screwdriver to put in your 1/4"-20 screws.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4959_zps28247fc1.jpg)
Step 7: Go Back Together
Your done! Just put everything back and the problem will be no more!
Difficulty Level: Moderate to Advanced
Step 1: Confirm the Problem
You can actually find out whether or not you have this issue by slowly opening and closing the lid of the trunk and listening for a slight amount of movement coming from the part of the trunk that is closest to the rear window.
Step 2: Remove the Trunk Lid Carpet Cover
This is fairly straightforward. You should take a tool like this (http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/7...nel-b-font.jpg) and remove all the black clips that hold the carpet onto place. If you do not have this tool already, I recommend that you buy one, just because it will minimize the amount of clips you break. Often, if done with a screwdriver, the clips are more prone to break on you.
After this is done, this is what you should see.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4964_zps29c6863e.jpg)
The problem lies in the cavity on the bottom.
Step 3: Fashion the Tool
This is so you can hold the stabilizer bar closest to you as you drill through the bar so you can place screws in. Just simply get a pair of vice grips and a decent sized allen wrench and put it together like this.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4961_zps71817305.jpg)
After you do that, you can place it in the holes and grab onto the stabilizer bar like this.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4963_zpsd06a2460.jpg)
Step 4: Drill the Holes
Choosing the size of the drill bit depends on the size of the screws you want to put in. I chose to use 1/4"-20 screws which is a quarter-inch in diameter and 20 threads per inch of screw. If you use a 1/4"-20 screw, your cutting drill size will be a #7. I recommend using a smaller drill size just to get through first and then make the hole larger with the #7 bit. You must only drill through the stabilizer bar and not hit the trunk. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH THE TOP PART OF THE TRUNK! It helps you have one person to hold the allen wrench tool while you do the drilling. When drilling, it helps to have a finger extended to when you get through the stabilizer bar, your finger hits the trunk before the drill hits the trunk lid.
Step 5: Using the Tap
This part is pretty easy. Use the 1/4"-20 tap to make the treads though the stabilizer bar for your screws.
Step 6: Putting in the Screws
Use a screwdriver to put in your 1/4"-20 screws.
![](http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag14/eblazek/DSCN4959_zps28247fc1.jpg)
Step 7: Go Back Together
Your done! Just put everything back and the problem will be no more!
#2
i just took a can of this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1000033...1#.UWKn-5OG2So
and sprayed it in the cavities a few times, roughly 2-3 applications per cavity or about maybe half a can...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1000033...1#.UWKn-5OG2So
and sprayed it in the cavities a few times, roughly 2-3 applications per cavity or about maybe half a can...
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
That may be the easy way of doing it. But if you would like to fix it where the stabilizer bar is perfectly centered on all axes as it was when it came out of the factory, then I believe this is the way to go. I thought about using the expanding foam, but I did not want to risk it pushing up on the top of the trunk and warping the aluminum. Also, this makes less of a mess and I think is a little bit more professional. Just my opinion, though.
#5
ahaha i did my foam the smart way, taped off all but one hole so the foam had somewhere to go when it expanded beyond the capacity of the trunk cavity, plus i just used painters tape so even if it did expand greatly it would just pop the tape off...
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