Hello all.

My RL is now pushing a little over 190K miles and the check engine light is on and has been on for some time. I haven't had it checked, because it runs so well and I can count on one hand how many vehicles I've had that did not have the check engine light on. I live in an area that does not have inspections, so it's not a worry to me.

I'm sure that with this kind of mileage, the catalytic convertor is all clogged up and it may be a big part in why the CEL is glowing. Is there a cheap alternative to replacing this thing other than the OEM? I'm sure I could probably find a used one somewhere and I may go down that road, because I am not forking out the dough for a new one! Or is there an aftermarket better flowing one that you all have tried?

Any help and advice will be appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

Cory

 

Cut it out It will increase gas mileage as well. What part of TN are you in?

 

I've thought about that, but wasn't sure if it would run right without that back pressure being there. I know that in some vehicles, the computer is calibrated to run with all OEM specs and doing something like that will cause issues. Have you done this with yours? If so, any noticeable differences? Sound?

I'm around the Nashville area. I work in Nashville, but actually live outside Nashville. Are you in TN as well?

 

I would check the codes, it could be an o2 sensor.

I don't think knocking out the cat will be a good choice. You will get more power but like the op says, that backpressure is vital to a properly working motor.

 

I would go get the code read to see what is causing the Check Engine Light (CEL). It may not be the cat... I had a 96 Emerald Green RL like yours which I ran to 250K miles on the original cat before I sold it. The only thing I ever got the CEL for is P0401 which is the EGR ports having insufficient flow and would require a port cleaning. That would come on like every 2-3 years after 150K miles and each time, I took it in to get the EGR ports cleaned and it'd be good again. I guess this is a pretty common problem on the 96 RL. Let use know what code you get.

 

I have the P0401 as well, so you just cleaned the EGR and the code was gone? because I cleaned mine and the code was still there. I've planned to take it to the shop and let them diagnose whats going on with the P0401 code.

 

How did you clean the port? Make sure you clean the right one if you do it yourself. This port is not at the EGR Valve... it's at the intake manifold side and is a pain to get to. That's why I take it in to have them do it.

In any event, after the port is cleaned, you have to clear the code manually. It doesn't just go away by itself. Either use an OBDII scanner to clear the code, or if you don't have one, just unplug the battery for a few minutes and plug it back in. But if you do that, you have to input your radio code.

If after the light is cleared, and it doesn't come back on in a few days, you know you are good. If it comes back, you either didn't clean it enough or didn't clean the right one. Note that P0401 takes a few driving cycles to come on, so you won't know right away. It usually takes a few days to come back on after clearing it (if the flow is still insufficient).

Hope this helps...

 

Yeah man get the cel checked before you decide to spend money on a part that might not be the problem.

 

I didn't clean the port, I just cleaned the EGR with Carb choke. Anyway you said the port was on the side of the intake manifold right? I thought it was the little wavy golden color tube at the back of the engine. So how much did they charge you?

 

That golden color tube is part of it. But you need to clean the side of the tube connected to the intake manifold including the inside of the intake manifold itself.

Here is a link to do it yourself showing what's involved...

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...leaning-79886/

The dealer charged me $350 to do it. It's kind of a rip if you ask me, but I really didn't want to do this myself because it involves removing fuel injectors and having some gas spill out.

 

Does removing the cat really help with gas and power?

 

It does help. I was forced to change mines out in Nov. It happened all of a sudden one day it was driving fine, the next the s.o.b. wouldnt go over 20 miles an hour. I paid 185.00 from Autozone for the cat, and 150.00 for the installation. Now all is fine.

 

It sounds like your cat was blocked up pretty well.

 

I would say the same. I also think the demise in part stemmed from universal o2 sensors I installed in early 2010.

 

What I mean is that by removing the cat and put a straight pipe in its place ,would it help or harm the system?

 

youd most likely get a CEL. Even if you'd have a bung welded into the straight pipe for the o2. obd2 doesnt like change.

 

I can get an obd2 modulator that would replace the o2 sensor in the cat so I would not get the alarm code. with that said, Would the straight pipe instead of the cat converter help my engine or harm it?