Turbo performance changed over night and now it has a rattle. But there’s a odd story

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Old 04-08-2019, 12:46 PM
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Turbo performance changed over night and now it has a rattle. But there’s a odd story

So my rdx when I got it was only making 1/4 of the way max on the boost gauge and very hesative past 50% throttle. Went out with wife Saturday on a humid colder rainy day. Started noticing a rattling noise when I was sitting at idle coming from turbo area. If I keep any rpm at all on the car the noise goes away. The crazy thing is it now will boost up to 70%ish on the boost gauge and is wayyyyy more responsive esp on the highway and backroads. The rattle is pretty sketchy sounding and it has never made this rattle before. Also the boost sometimes doesn’t drop off when shifting like the wastegate is sticking or something. Could this be shaft play? Or worn out wastegate flapper that May have been sticking open before and now it’s just rattling? That’s the sounds I’m feeling it maybe. I don’t want to just start ripping things apart and be down a car. I’ve got the flow control actuator I am going to swap soon but my arm and rod end look mint on the car and have no wiggle at all so unless the diaphragm is bad or I have a wonky wastegate or arm I don’t know 🤷♂️ I know one or two of you may be frustrated or don’t know either but I’m not able to spend 600-800 for a turbo or rebuilt at the moment so I’m trying to find exactly what’s wrong and try to rebuild myself. I think I’ve seen enough turbo rebuild videos and am comfortable enough doing it. Any input or things I could test or try would be very much appreciated. Please no negative comments. I just mainly want to know why the weather and moisture would all of a sudden make it go from slow to near normal but have rattling. I mean I’ve been driving the car a little pushy trying to break free whatever felt like it was stuck and I guess maybe between that and the weather something came undone lol. Wether it be the wastegate or the turbo got some shaft play. But it’s very frustrating and me and my wife are goin through hard times and just don’t have funds avail or anything to drop 600-700 right now unless I was to do some serious asset selling like sell some of my prized possessions or something. I can afford a few hundred buck repair but that’s about it. If in fact it is the wastegate loose is there a fix for that? If it’s shaft play would it even be safe to rebuild?

https://youtu.be/J852bKSSH_w

Soon as I let off the gas I notice the rattle.

Old 04-09-2019, 07:19 AM
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Me too

Thanks for posting. I have the same exact symptoms you listed.

i thought maybe it was my timing chain. Or maybe a motor mount. Or maybe even something in the cat or exhaust.

rattle when coming off power back to idle.

Please let us know when you confirm the problem

Boxster98
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cperkins87 (04-11-2019)
Old 04-09-2019, 07:32 AM
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well, Dive into the engine area and look for where the sound is coming from. isolating the sound is a good way to narrow down suspected parts.
if needed to dive further, you can buy or build a mechanics stethoscope to help further locate noise.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:37 AM
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Sound really hard to pin point

I hear it mostly in back of engine (near firewall) Only when high vacuum, gasing engine to idle is only time it rattles. Tried looking for vacuum leaks, seems tight

rattle is not in time with engine.

thoughts?
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Old 04-10-2019, 08:14 AM
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Variable Flow Geometry Actuator ? Part of Turbo?

I bet this is our problem with rattle
i am ordering a replacement part from the guy in the youtube video. Quoted me 160, he is making a new batch


I will keep you updated. More pictures coming soon

Boxster98

Last edited by Boxster98; 04-10-2019 at 08:17 AM.
Old 04-10-2019, 08:45 AM
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Pictures of Variable Flow Geometry Actuator connector

Pictures of part that is bad
Attached Thumbnails -b241e426-86d1-47a3-a751-bf81b90ea9ec.png   -da2b35ed-dd03-4403-a574-2e79dc75bc06.png   -b43a7e81-7df8-47d1-a226-c4625f461db8.png  
Old 04-11-2019, 12:26 AM
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mine is actually tight and doesn’t have any wobble or play. It sounds internal around the turbo area. Like wastegate or cat rattling or something. I wish someone would make a video on how to remove the turbo and the cats. Why is there barely any tutorial videos on the rdx but there’s millions for every other car. I could make a fortune if I had a good camera and a lot of followers in YouTube. I really don’t know why someone hasn’t stepped up and showed a good tutorial on how to replace parts for the turbo and removing the cats and turbo. It makes no sense. It’s like everyone loves to Keep secrets in the rdx community. This is probably the most secretive non sharing community of cars I’ve ever owned. If this was an integra or a vw Jetta or even a mdx Or tl there a video for everything.
Old 04-11-2019, 02:49 PM
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I didn't make a video and I'm doing the last parts reinstall (waiting for paint to dry).
Turbo removal isn't simple.
The Intercooler and its support as to be removed, filter box and batt, remove from the fuse box both positive and negative and unhook the box so can be moved around, other tubes that follow the air intake have to be removed, all small parts of vaccum have to be removed, takes notes and lots of pics if you have to.
Go under the car and remove the warm up cat. wile under there remove the clits that hold things like the wire of oxygen sensor, remove the oil pipe and the small elbo hose, unscrew the bolt of the bracket that holds the turbine and disconnect oxygen sensor (there's 2). Once everything is out of the way, unbolt the turbo , 3 screws and one pain in ass nut. Hope there's not many rusted bolts. The turbine comes out by the drivers side. Leave in place the warm cat when installing the turbine other wise wont go in.
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Old 04-11-2019, 02:53 PM
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all this from air bypass was removed.
Attached Thumbnails -air-bypass-valve.bmp  
Old 04-11-2019, 02:55 PM
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The parts in yellow were removed.

Last edited by Poveiro; 04-11-2019 at 02:56 PM. Reason: missing picture
Old 04-11-2019, 02:59 PM
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Also removed everything except what'

s green, the reason is to leave space to work and also no to damage fragile parts.
Old 04-11-2019, 03:07 PM
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E15 section was disconnected so does tubes could be moved to the side, some other small parts in there too, so nothing brakes, parts 6, 7 and 12 were removed.
Dont forget to empty first the cooling system.
The cable from the water valve unhooked and disconnect from the pin (Valve). Not visible in the picture.
Old 04-12-2019, 10:57 AM
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Awesome thanks. Do you know who can rebuild it the cheapest or who has good parts for not a lot? I may want to upgrade but don’t want to pay a lot I’m not trying to go big. I just think upgrading one size up would be about the same as stock
Old 04-12-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cperkins87
Awesome thanks. Do you know who can rebuild it the cheapest or who has good parts for not a lot? I may want to upgrade but don’t want to pay a lot I’m not trying to go big. I just think upgrading one size up would be about the same as stock
I fixed mine myself, the fan looked good, my problem was the valve stuck open, cleaned everything and repaired or replaced all rusted parts.
Dont no where you from, but my friend google must be able to help you.
good luck
Old 04-12-2019, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Poveiro
I fixed mine myself, the fan looked good, my problem was the valve stuck open, cleaned everything and repaired or replaced all rusted parts.
Dont no where you from, but my friend google must be able to help you.
good luck
what valve was stuck? The flow control actuator or the wastegate actuator the ones vaccum controlled with the rod? I’m guessing by Fan you mean the turbine wheel? Yeah my intake side turbo prop looks good. Haven’t seen the exhaust side. I do have a new flow control actuator. I know the rod end on the flow control actuator gets loose and wobbly for many but mine is right and perfect. I plan on taking it apart this week and trying to change out that. I have a feeling my wastgate is what’s making the noise. What source did you get parts from. I’ve googled a lot and haven’t found anywhere that sells a wastegate repair kit or the bushing even. There’s one company I found who can rebuild it but they can’t give me a price or estimate unless I spent a crap ton to ship it to them.
Old 04-13-2019, 07:07 AM
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Poveiro
thats what is going on with mine. What parts did you buy and where did you get them. How much was the cost.
Old 04-14-2019, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cperkins87
thats what is going on with mine. What parts did you buy and where did you get them. How much was the cost.
Nothing was damage, just a little jammed.
Cleaned everything (removed all rust and dirt), realigned the wastegate rod, and testing manually everything was working well.
Finished assembling everything yesterday and first problem as I turn the key on, VSA would stay on and SH-AWD, another problem the engine temperature sensor open (forgot the code) but I measure with laser and seems ok but gauge goes 100% up on temperature.
Also turbo gauge stays at 1/3, it wont go past the 1/3 no matter what
Is now out of the garage, will give it a rest and do others that have to be done, will retake this problem after dealing with the Outback and 4 wheeler.
So if I can't figure I will replace with a 12'' Turbo.

This one is manual so should be no trouble

12'' should give enought power ;-)

after a paint job, he will look good.
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Old 04-17-2019, 06:50 PM
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Get a spare turbo off eBay, one with a warranty a rebuild and send it to Blouche Performance and they will do an upgrade for you.

They will even make a custom actuator for you if you want to send your original and have them rebuild it.

Rattling could be the cats heat shield it happened to me I had them replaced. Also the power issue could be a clogged cat due to improper warm up or garbage gasoline.
Old 09-11-2019, 06:42 PM
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can you please recommend a good video on steps to take a turbo out from the car...
Thanks!!!
Old 09-19-2019, 12:35 AM
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I don’t have a video to do it or the tool necessary for it unfortunately.
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