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Looking for some advice on how to fix this coolant leak. any advice/help/suggestions would be appreciated.
I recently had engine start overheating. Coolant was low. Couldn't really find the leak. refilled with honda coolant. Drove it a bit more with same result but this time I see a leak (and I understand there could be bigger issues here or more leaks but I figure this is a good place to start.
I have attached a few pictures. It seems the hose (looking at part list diagram) is the "hose throttle body outlet" that attaches to the "pipe, heater" hose. I feel as though replacing the throttle body outlet hose is simple enough but from the pictures you can see the steel pipe heater is very rusted and my guess would be it is likely causing the fitting to not properly seal.
Here is my issue:
- how to I replace this heater pipe? Is it even possible to replace without taking out a million other pieces? Its a very tight fit in there so not sure if thats even do able?
- It seems the steel pipe attaches to a rubber hose on 1 end with a clamp (simple enough) but the other end attaches to what I believe is the water pump??? I cant see any bolts on this so I have zero idea how I take this off and reinstall a new one?
- Is there coolant in all of these lines? Will flushing the engine coolant drain all these lines?
Any help on how to accomplish this is great. And yes I understand I am not nearly as efficient/mechanically inclined as other posters on here. Be easy on me.
The leak!
Can this be accessed without removing all the stuff above it?
2 hoses in questions
This is where the steel hose attaches to what I believe is water pump. how is this attached and how do i remove?
After referencing my car, you can take that particular pipe off without taking anything else off.
Take that bolt off in your first picture, take the regular clamp off on the right side (standing in front of the engine). In the second pic, take that bolt off as well, and the end of that pipe goes into the thermostat housing. It should slide into it with an o-ring at the end so just wiggle it while pulling up and I'm quite certain it'll eventually pop out. Given the rust and stuff, make sure you get a new o ring with the new pipe.
That pipe most definitely carries coolant, so be ready for a lot of it to just keep coming out.I would suggest getting what's called a spill free funnel to bleed the system again:
Basically attach that to the top of the radiator where the cap goes using the correct attachments, fill up with new coolant until all the bubbles stop. Then start the car with it still attached, turn the heater on high, and let it run til the bubbles stop again. I personally keep the funnel filled about half way. The system is considered bled once you have nice hot air coming from the vents. Bleeding the system should take around 20 ish minutes this way. Keep an eye on the thermostat gauge while you do it just in case there's some massive air bubble and it tries to overheat, but it shouldn't be likely if you go about it as mentioned.
Oh that’s great. Thanks for the advice. I’ll try to track some parts down tomorrow and hopefully attempt this on the weekend.
Many idea how much coolant rdx will need after its completely empty?
Originally Posted by WellHellWtvr215
Hey buddy,
After referencing my car, you can take that particular pipe off without taking anything else off.
Take that bolt off in your first picture, take the regular clamp off on the right side (standing in front of the engine). In the second pic, take that bolt off as well, and the end of that pipe goes into the thermostat housing. It should slide into it with an o-ring at the end so just wiggle it while pulling up and I'm quite certain it'll eventually pop out. Given the rust and stuff, make sure you get a new o ring with the new pipe.
That pipe most definitely carries coolant, so be ready for a lot of it to just keep coming out.I would suggest getting what's called a spill free funnel to bleed the system again:
Basically attach that to the top of the radiator where the cap goes using the correct attachments, fill up with new coolant until all the bubbles stop. Then start the car with it still attached, turn the heater on high, and let it run til the bubbles stop again. I personally keep the funnel filled about half way. The system is considered bled once you have nice hot air coming from the vents. Bleeding the system should take around 20 ish minutes this way. Keep an eye on the thermostat gauge while you do it just in case there's some massive air bubble and it tries to overheat, but it shouldn't be likely if you go about it as mentioned.
Oh that’s great. Thanks for the advice. I’ll try to track some parts down tomorrow and hopefully attempt this on the weekend.
Many idea how much coolant rdx will need after its completely empty?
Off the top of my head no, but I do know it's in the back of the owner's manual where it lists all the other fluid capacities. If you don't have a paper copy, you can find a .pdf version on the Acura site.
I would just tell you to pick up 2 gallons from Honda/Acura. It's blue stuff, and I believe comes pre-diluted so no mixing required. That should be more than enough, but I'm fairly certain the whole system takes like 2.2 gallons or something silly.
-Shane
EDIT: One last note to keep in mind, that coolant pipe is obviously metal, and near it is the starter. To be on the safe side, I would suggest that you disconnect the battery beforehand just in case you accidentally rotate the pipe and it somehow touches the power supply to the starter.
07-12-2018, 11:58 AM
